Beef Wellington

Post 40
Rough Tree Rails
This involved more than a little trial and error.
Each section had to be independently fitted between the Swivel posts, whilst hopefully maintaining an even run of the rail.
Before I started I both pinned and glued the Finger and Thumb timberheads between the posts; I used the kit provided items.
The forward end of the rail ends in a curved hance. This was fashioned from some 2mm Boxwood Sheet and cut out on the scroll saw.

3628

3630
Went a little easier than I thought it would be.

3638
A re-check of the swivel fit.

3650
Lemuel my Helmsman assists with a scale check.

3657
Whilst I was on a roll I continued to complete the Timberheads and swivel post at the bow.
I used the kit provided Timberheads (Finger and Thumb) as they are nicely shaped and good for scale. As they are to be painted I didn’t think it worth the effort to reproduce in Boxwood.

3654
The provided Swivel pedestals, rectangular affairs, I replaced with Boxwood Octagonal versions. The measurement I took from the Alert Book.

3669

3665(2)

3666

3664
 
B.E.
25/11/2019

Post 36
Preparing the Guns.
I have replaced the kit provided guns with RB Brass versions.
To these the Royal Monograms (Syren) and representations of the vent holes are added.
The Monograms are exceptionally fragile items and there is quite a high attrition rate. Even so once stuck they will withstand the acid dip and the blackening fluid.

0003
I used the smallest of the Syren Monograms.
Once the gun is thoroughly cleaned the Monograms and vents were added.
A tiny spot of thick ca is applied to the gun and the monogram gently pressed into place.

0044
This flash shot shows up the Monograms but is not a true reflection of the colour.

0039(2)
This shot more closely reflects the colour.
It takes several re-dips following cleaning off any residual ca to get the desired finish, and from this point plastic gloves are worn when handling the guns.

3497(2)
I don’t buff the surface but seal it using slightly thinned Humbrol Matt Cote, this both protects and deepens the colour a little.
So, here’s the completed set.

3500

3503

3505

3506

3501(2)

3498
It has taken about five days’ work to reach this point, but I consider taking extra time with the guns is well worth the effort.
On an open decked vessel such as a cutter they are a major feature and very exposed to view.
 
In my next post I will be covering the combining of guns and carriages and adding the fine detail.
 
B.E.
16/11/2019

Post 35
Perhaps the most eye-catching deck fitting on a cutter is the Windlass and Carrick bitts.
I rather like making up these parts and Chris has provided in the kit the makings for a good set.
The laser cut wooden parts are cleanly cut and have a good surface for painting.
The kit provides a resin windlass spindle which is nicely formed and requiring very little clean up.
It is also a good match for scale against the Alert Book drawings.
Unlike wooden versions where the option is to varnish or paint, paint is the only option. If it is to be painted red, as often represented on models, no problem, otherwise getting a good colour mix is the main issue.

3479
I wasn’t too keen on the suggested dark wood colour, but not quite sure what I’m after; perhaps a sort of washed out salt stained wood colour that will provide a contrast to the Carrick bits (Red) and other woodwork. Fiddling around with paint mixes is the only way to go.

3478
The final addition to the Carrick Bitts are the straps that secure the cheeks to the Bitts. Nice brass etched well scaled items are provided.

3476
One addition that can be reproduced are representations of the iron hoops at the outer ends of the warping heads on the Windlass. These are made from my old standby of heat shrink tubing.
Jeer and Topsail Bitts
This is the remaining significant centre line deck fitting.

3460
Cleanly cut, easy to assemble parts with a resin windlass complete with pawl drums.

3461
The only extra which may be considered are tiny pawls, but they are very tiny.
 
Pumps
In the kit the elm tree pump casings are represented by some 4mm dowel into which the multi-part pe Brake handle mechanism is glued.

3459
Strictly speaking the casing should be octagonal in section and I prefer to make mine from square section Boxwood.

3467
One of the things to note when fitting these to the deck is that they are not vertical but angle outwards very slightly.

3471
Not too sure from the kit instructions how high above deck the pump casings should stand. The instructions indicate gluing the pump handle assembly into 40mm long dowel but doesn’t elaborate further.
 Taking my guide from the Alert book I have settled on a length of 14mm above deck.

3466
To finish the pumps, I added the discharge ports and the iron bands top and bottom.
 
Coming together now, but still too early to fix these deck fittings.

3483

3485

3490
Back to the guns I think.
 
 
B.E
11/11/2019

Post 34
Creating a Bowsprit
For this I am using 6mm square stock to produce a spar 275mm in length.
The square section is marked with tape as is the outer end.
 
There is a formula in Steel based on Quarters along the length from the square section forward.
1st Q           2ND Q         3RD Q         Outer end
 60/61        11/12          4/5               5/9 
5.90mm      5.5mm      4.8mm          3.3mm

3441
These stations are marked on a card for checking the diameters as the tapering progresses.
Before turning on the lathe the square edges are taken off using a ‘V’ jig.
Various grades of sandpaper are used to produce the taper.

3445
With the sprit completed, additional fid holes are drilled thro’ the square section.

3456
This is a good time to fix the iron hoop to support the Bowsprit.
A nicely presented etched item complete with square bolt plates.

3447
Iron fids have replaced the simplified kit arrangement, they will be trimmed on final fitting.

3450
The square section has come in at 5.75mm but I did in the end take a shave off the inner sides of the bitts, which is not apparent to the naked eye.

3449(2)
My eye tells me that it passes muster so the set up can now be put aside for the present.
 
B.E.
09/11/2019
 
 

Thanks for looking in Guy, and for your kind appreciation.
 
Post 31
Bulwark attachments
This is a good point in the build to deal with the iron work along the bulwarks and other stuff where the centre line fittings would get in the way.
 
Ringbolts and eyebolts for the gun tackle.
The kit provides brass pe etch items for the breeching rope ring bolts. All that is necessary is to fit the ring over the open bolt and close it up.
However, the kit makes no reference to rigging the guns and if you use the kit tackle and intend rigging, it is wise to check that the intended Breeching rope fits thro’ the provided etch rings.

3381(2)
My preferred option is to use Amati fine rings and eyebolts as per the centre example.
 
I think it is appropriate and certainly more authentic at 1:64 scale to rig the guns with breeching ropes and side tackles, and I intend to do so. The main concern is to get the combination and blocks looking right with the carriage.
The Breeching rope is 4¼” circ; equating to 0.54mm ø at scale
I will use Syren 0.6mm ø line which provides the right visual contrast to the finer tackle lines. I tend to use slightly undersized tackle lines blocks and hooks.
There should also be eyebolts to take the side tackle hooks; in the Alert book drawings these are secured to the face of the shot garlands fitted to the bulwark.
Shot Garlands
These are neat laser cut items and the shot (2mm ø) is also provided. My immediate thought was that the provided shot looked at tad overscale.
Naturally I couldn’t resist trying the ball for fit in the muzzle and not surprisingly it doesn’t.
 
The bore for a six pounder is given as 3.675” (how did they measure that close with the technology they had at the time) with a 3½” ø ball.
At scale the bore works out at 1.46 mm.  and the model gun is 1.56mm; 1.50mm ø shot it is then.

3380(2)
This did mean I had to modify the Garlands to take the smaller shot.
 On the left, 2mm shot; on the right, 1.5mm shot.

3384
Tricky little items to fit I used a guide to get the right height.

3399
The ring bolts  for the Breeching ropes are not fixed at this time, they will be attached to the ropes before  gluing to the bulwarks.
While I was looking at the shot garlands and their position along the bulwarks, I became aware of differences between the kit and the Alert book drawings. There is a much greater  spacing between the third and fourth ports from aft on the book drawings, (C2/1) which appears between the fourth and fifth from aft in the kit.

The kit follows the arrangement on the Admiralty drawings.
 The book deck plan drawing(C2/1) shows a longer garland accommodating 11 balls. On the Admiralty plan there are two smaller garlands which seems more logical as a continuous rack would be over eight feet in length.
The kit provided garland sits centrally within the greater space which is relevant because as noted earlier the side tackle eyebolts are fixed to the garlands.

3395
I added two shorter Garlands within the space which maintains the continuity of the side tackle arrangements.

3392(2)
Not sorry to see the end of this fiddley little exercise.
Movin’ on.
 
B.E.
06/11/2019
 
 

Thank you Dirk, Rusty, and Jim. 🙂
 
Post 29
Today I received the replacement ordnance for Alert.

3352

3349

3350

3351
These are 29mm Brass guns from RB Models, Poland, and represent good value at £10.00 delivered. The carriages are the kit provided ones.
I can now move onto completing the guns.
 
B.E.
31/10/2019
 

Post 28
 Hatches
Main Hatch
The kit provides a quick and easy method of assembly with pre- cut joints for the Head ledges and coamings, and pe brass  gratings.
A simple arrangement, and this is the first kit I have come across with brass etched gratings. A good idea perhaps at smaller scales but for me wooden gratings look better and are perfectly feasible at 1:64.
The Head ledges lack any round up, and the brass gratings also lack the cut-outs to allow passage of the anchor cables, but I suppose the brass ones could be carefully modified.

3294
My approach is to use the brass grating as a template to form a Boxwood version, and then build the head ledges and coamings around that, also in Boxwood.
Altho’ the framing will be painted the Boxwood will provide a far better surface to take the paint.

3316
For the Gratings I am using Chuck’s (Syren) Cambered Boxwood strips and grating jig.
These are a good match for scale and take all the pain out of grating construction.
 
Fore Hatch

3315
I also adopted the same approach to the Fore hatch and replaced the kit gratings with wooden versions, and included the ladder leading down to the lower deck.
 
The Bread Room scuttle
This is represented in the kit by a solid cover whereas the Alert book drawings show it as a grating.
On my kit the laser cut lid was a poor fit to the provided frame and I discarded both.

3308
Because I like gratings better than covers, I went with a grating.
This grating is not one of Chuck’s, but a temporary fitting until fresh supplies arrive.

3298

3299

3302

3304(2)

3313
Having made a few fittings, I will now return to do a few other necessary jobs on the hull, scuppers, ring bolts for the bulwarks, and a rudder coat come to mind.
 
B.E
30/10/2019



 

Post 26
Companionways and hatches
I will start with the Companion to the Captain’s Cabin, effectively a hinged sky light.
This is reproduced in the kit as a brass etched item, with the coamings and head ledges pre-formed in a wood material. These are shaped to reflect the proper joints rather than a simple edge join.
The item goes together very well and it is a straightforward assembly particularly for the novice builder.
The kit version is as per the drawings in the Goodwin Alert book. A boxy affair with a flat top and glazed square lights.
A slight puzzlement is that the kit version has 42 lights contained within the frame whereas the book drawing has 30 lights, which for me looks better, less like a grating.
 
There seems to be as many variations of the Skylight design fitted to Alert as there are models and paintings.
 
Within the Alert book there is a contemporary painting of a model dated 1775 showing a clerestory style skylight.
The contemporary model of Hawke (circa 1777) shows the familiar pitched roof glazed sides version.
The modern Cole model of Alert has a glazed top but longer, and in a different position.
The Irving Kingman model also has a version of the pitched roof style of skylight.
 
I made up the kit version but I tweaked the thickness of the framing to allow for the skylight to sit in a recess rather than just positioned atop the Head ledges and coamings.

3242
Using micro brass tubing I added hinges to allow opening of the light.
 
My preference is for something slightly more interesting than the kit provided item, so I opted for the clerestory style as shown in the painting of the model of ‘Alert.’

The oil painting by Joseph Marshall 1775.
 
 The notation in the Goodwin Alert book reads:-
An oil painting of the Alert cutter model dated 1775. Various features comply exactly to the modified draught of the Rattlesnake used for the 1777 Alert. These include the squared gunports, the five shroud deadeyes and three backstays chain plates. The painting formed part of the George111 Collection of ship model paintings.


This is at variance to the notation in The Science Museum:- who hold the painting, and gives the date as 1755. Perspective view, possibly drawn to illustrate an experimental design rather than an actual plan. a model is known to have been built from design of Sir J Acworth d.1749. - Not part of the series of ship model paintings commissioned by King George III. - Ship is cutter, 6th Rate; eight were in service 1753-1754

Interesting to note that the table on which the model sits, does say ‘Alert’.

The paired stern quarter view painting
 
Regardless of these descriptions, the model as painted does look very close in design to the Alert I am modelling.
Still I digress.

3241
This is the first attempt of creating the skylight using a bit of Boxwood scrap.
My prime concern was getting the scale looking right as I don’t have specific dimensions, but it looks ok to my eye.

3232(2)
A view as per Joseph Marshall’s painting.
 
B.E.
26/10/2019
 

Post 20
Finishing the hull
This involves scraping the boards to clean and fair them into the bow and sternpost, and then drilling the estimated 2500 holes for the securing bolts.
I have taken the measurements for spacing from the Alert book, which work out to a 7mm spacing at scale.
I am using 24swg 0.56mm ø copper wires to represent the bolts.

2814
A week of fairly concerted effort sees the hull bolted.
 
With this done the tricky waterline question remains. Not one of my favourite jobs and the clinker is an added problem.
How do I get an effective waterline marked?
 
In marking the waterline, it seems best to me, having set the level at the bow low point, to start at the centre high point of the line and work fore and aft. That way the line runs with the lap and the pencil is not thrown off by the ridges.

2815
Once the line is marked, Tamiya tape for curves is run along the lines to check by eye that both sides look even.

2819
I’ve never found that this Tamiya tape works particularly well, doesn’t seem to have as much grab as the yellow version.

2824
Altho’ I’m satisfied with the line of the waterline, inevitably I’m not going to get a sealed line to paint along, and my main concern is that the waterline line looks good with the clinker effect at model scale.
The top line will have to be painted free hand using the tape as a guide. The rub is that once committed it would prove difficult to go back to an unmarked hull.
 
I would hate it to look like a wobbly line, but doing it is the only way to see one way or the other, so time to bite the bullet.
 
I have used a basic white Humbrol  acrylic paint to lay down a base coat and assess the effect, but I intend to use a less stark  paint for the finish, perhaps Admiralty paints Light Ivory or Coral white.

2832

2838
I am relieved that the top line is far better than I had envisaged just a tiny amount of fussing and tweaking will be required.

2839

2840

2844(2)

2849(2)
I will now try to get the lower hull finish looking as good as I can before the upper hull is sealed with poly.
 
B.E.
08/10/2019
 
 

Hi Rob,
 
the contrast between the pale wooden strips and the black parts in the crosstrees is pleasant to the eye.
A very good idea.
 
 

Loved catching up on your progress OC, not usually a fan of figurines, but those figures fit right and give a great sense of scale.  You really did a great job painting them, and the rigging is looking terrific.

More figure making today  - I started with a  boat hand,    then I made a  tops  lookout   starting to get the hang of it.
 
OC.

Oh, how disappointing. I typed out the whole message, and then it disappeared when I hit Submit... 
 
Oh well. Let's have another go.
 
Thanks so much to everyone who has offered likes, encouragement, advice... it's so helpful, and a great spur to keep going on what is now a four year project!
 
I've been busy rigging the weapons on the quarterdeck - not much to show, really... breeching ropes, and training tackle, just like the gun deck. All the breeching ropes are fitted, then I use watered down PVA to fix them so they look like they're falling naturally (or at least that's the plan).
 
In the meantime - as I wait for the glue to dry so I can have my tools, which are keeping them in place as they dry, back, I've been working on the crosstrees. That meant first fitting the cheeks to the mast. These were pre-painted so that the lines between the black and the ochre were really crisp, then glued in place.
 
The crosstrees are glued together, but not attached to anything yet... However, dry-fitted it all goes together really nicely... Here are the pictures...
 



 
Thanks again to everyone who looks in, and happy building!
 
Rob

A little slow in the shop this week. Here is the complex plank installed. This required a great deal of finding high spots by holding artist transfer paper between the joints at various places, then filing down with a very fine flat Swiss file, then checking again. When I felt my patience disappearing, I would leave it and go do something else. So it took me a while.
 
Mark

Loved catching up on your progress OC, not usually a fan of figurines, but those figures fit right and give a great sense of scale.  You really did a great job painting them, and the rigging is looking terrific.

Loved catching up on your progress OC, not usually a fan of figurines, but those figures fit right and give a great sense of scale.  You really did a great job painting them, and the rigging is looking terrific.

Loved catching up on your progress OC, not usually a fan of figurines, but those figures fit right and give a great sense of scale.  You really did a great job painting them, and the rigging is looking terrific.

Deck planking is in the works.  I'm currently unemployed so I'll have some time to work on her over the holidays
 
I'm reasonably happy with how it's turning out, Little bit regretful of not adding margin planks.  Next build perhaps I will delve deeper.     
  

Right after posting the last pictures I started to clean up the taffrail a bit, took out the most offending support - and before I knew know - the whole taffrail was taken apart.
 
Time for version 2.0:
New, shorter supports with 3,5 instead of 5mm height were cut and adjusted to the curvature of the transom edge. Then I glued them with epoxy adhesive because there is quite some stress on them while fixing the rail. The rail itself was sanded thinner, smaller and smoother. Then I carefully drilled small holes through rail and supports into the taffrail for the nails. Even with pre-drilling the nails might split the supports. Now the rail was epoxy glued and nailed onto the supports, all cleaned and painted and voilà - rail mk2.0 looks much more shipshape than the first try.
 

new rail
 
 

the skipper is quite happy with the new rail, however that deck is a disgrace to the ship and must be cleaned
 
 

the skipper definitely likes the new look

In the meantime the poop deck and its rail are finished and the first three carronades installed. I choose to rig them full with four tackles and a breach rope each.
 
For variety I added several details, such as poop knees, timber heads and cavel cleats, some ladders or pin racks. However, while trying to install the skylight I couldn't find its canopy. Amati would have sold me an replacement but first I wanted to try a scratch built part. That way I could also correct a minor fault as on the plan a canopy with 4 rows of seven windows is shown. According to Bellona's plans it should have 3 rows of 7, corresponding to the sides of the skylight.
 
First I draw a plan of the frames onto a piece of wood and added some edge guides to form a simple jig. Then I cut a piece of cellophane to the inside measurement of the skylight frame. The cellophane was placed onto the setting jig and pieces of 1,5x1,5 mm walnut strips glued on to form the inner frames. The outer frame was made up with 1x4 mm walnut strips. All was glued with white glue as this holds cellophane quite well. Then the canopy was carefully sanded to adjust the different thicknesses of the strips. Clear varnish sealed all and I think it looks even better than the lost piece.
 

poop with rail added
 
 

skylight frame, jig and raw canopy
 
 

finished skylight
 
 

new ladder, cavel cleat and pin rack
 
 

rigged carronade (the tackles are not yet cut in length)
 
 

poop deck starts to look busy

Next on the  crew production line  -  Jack Sparrow - ish   (captain).
 
And a poop deck scene showing both so far.
 
OC.

Hi all, more progress,   figure  number one placed  on look out on the poop (he was facing the wrong direction on the forecastle).
 
OC.

Hi all,    the parcel man delivered my figures today  but first things first  I needed to place the three lanterns on the rear bulkhead, then I soaked the  figures in soapy water  and  took one of the  spru's   - this  one  is a pirate  looking through a telescope, they are made in red  styrene  but  painted up quite well  using acrylics and a very fine brush  under my magnifier.
 
So  one is finished  - think it looks ok.
 
OC.

More progress  today  -  I started by  making and painting the rear mizzen cross  spar (can remember its name)  this was then  glued in place,  I then turned attention  to the upper mizzen yard that still needed its lift ropes making - same procedure  as the other yard.
 
I finished off  the yard making/fitting  by  attaching the rear yard  ropes/blocks.
 
This finishes  all the mast/yards   and just leaves  the three rear lantens and  a  skull and crossbones  flag.
 
I will give the pirate figures  consideration  possibly later.
 
OC.

Evening all,
 
Sincere thanks  for all the likes and comments, 
 
I started the day by  lacing up the upper mizzen  rats  - this  finished the ratlines   and took just over an hour,   next job was  to  work on the two main mast lower yard  adjustment  ropes, these  were constructed  by two sections of  rope (thread)  and a single  adjustment  block.  and  lashed and tied off on the poop deck bulwark handrails.
I also fitted  the lower mizzen yard.
 
OC.