Beef Wellington

Cleaning up the mess. Main back stays are in place and now starting with shrouds. 

Cutting the reef points. This is a method I come up with. 
1.I copied the sail template several times
2. I cut the shape of the "reef line" out of the paper. 
3. I insert the template between sail and reef ropes so I can see the lenght and direction 
4. I fix the reef ropes straight in correct direction with the tape. 
5. Cover the ropes with diluted PVA glue and let it dry
6. Cut the ropes with exacto knife according to the template
 
It is little bit time consuming but accurate. Works quite well! 

All guns in place with breeching ropes secured for sail. I think it looks interesting and different. Gun tackles will follow. 

Full army...... It is scary big! 

Jig for breeching rope and ready gun for first "Sharp fit" 

Gun on the deck with first tackle


 

Second attempt with bobstay turned out much better. 

The rudder tillers from thin ropes look also much better! 

And the whole ship 

Post 67

 
Thinking about securing the yards.

 
Everything I’ve read about cutters of this period suggests that the yards were not secured to the mast by use of parrels or truss pendents, which presents the modeller with a real problem as the yards will need to be secured if only temporarily to get the rigging in place.

The kit gets around the problem by the simple expediency of having a parrel or truss on every yard and gluing and pinning the yards to the mast.

 
I have been here before, albeit back in the 1980s with my first cutter build.

0307(2)

0304(3)
A later spec cutter but even so no trusses, parrels, or pins were used in the building of this model.


0305
I wish I could remember how I approached this job, but it long preceded such things as ship modelling forums.


0303(2)
The yards are however perfectly secured in position by a combination of the braces and Bowlines.

 

Hawke model mast detail
I cannot detect any sign of a truss or parrel on the Hawke model.


 
I am starting with rigging the Spread-sail yard, but before I can even consider raising the yard the tackle blocks need to be attached, starting with the yard Tye block.


0309
This is a tricky little beggar, a 4mm single block with a served stropping formed into a ring that fits around the centre of the yard.

It is by trial and error that the size of the stropping ring is determined using unserved thread to confirm the size.

Two other blocks need to be attached at this stage; the Topsail sheet fall blocks, hanging below the yard just outside the slings.

 

0312
 Raising the Spread-sail yard.


0314
I need to have this yard in place so that I can consider the practicalities of raising the Square-sail yard on a horse afore it.


 
B.E.

09/02/2020

Post 66

 
Preventer Stay (Part Three) – lower end attachment.

 
For the Preventer Stay Steel indicates 9” deadeyes and 3” circ lanyards. (0.4mm ø at scale)

THE PREVENTER-STAY sets up with a laniard, reeved through the holes in the dead-eye in the lower end of the stay, and another dead-eye in an iron-bound-strap, bolted on the fore part of the stem.

 
I was surprised to see Steel referring to deadeyes for the Preventer stay in his 1794 work, as all the cutters I have seen either have hearts or thimbles.

 
The Alert book shows hearts, and the Kit instructions a thimble and lanyard arrangement hooked onto the stem.

Hawke model
The Hawke model shows the stay secured to a single thimble strapped to the stem.

 
Not least because I happen to have them, I have opted for Chuck’s closed hearts, but also hearts had been widely used for stays on ships of this period.


0297
5mm Syren Hearts, spot on.
 


0298
For the Lanyard I have attached some 0.4mm Morope.


Can’t get them to look completely right until they are pulled taut and seized.

 

0299
The lanyards won’t be tied off until the Bowsprit has been fitted and the yards raised.



0296
 
Moving on to that tricky business of yards.


 
 
B.E.

06/02/2020

Post 64
 
Mainstay and Preventer stays  (Part One)
 
The kit uses 1mm and 0.75mm diameter line for the stays and has a simplified attachment around the masthead.
 
The line equates to an 8” circ line for the Mainstay and 6” for the Preventer stay. This seems somewhat under-weight, even the much smaller Sherbourne has respectively 9” and 5” cables indicated.
 
Steel indicates a 13” circ Mainstay and a 6½” circ Preventer Stay for a 200-ton cutter.
This equates at scale to 1.64mm ø and 0.82mm. ø
 
A 1.6mm ø line looked too heavy at scale to my eye, particularly when serving is added, so I opted for Syren 1.37mm line for the Mainstay and 0.88mm for the Preventer.
 
This was dyed and left under light tension until required.
 

0259(2)
To give a more authentic look the stays should be served around the masthead and along the stay for some six feet below the mouse, used to prevent the collar of the stays tightening around the masthead.
I served the Mainstay with the kit provided 0.1mm line.
 
Mouses
 
Mouse - Main Stay
L = 1/3 circ of stay = 3.96mm
ø = 3 x ø of stay =4mm
 
To make the Mouse for the Main Stay I used styrene tubing; a length of 3.2mm ø tubing inserted inside a length of 4mm ø tubing. This gives me the required external diameter whilst having an internal hole that fits the served stay.
 

0250
Testing the mouse fit on the stay collar.
 
In reality mouses were woven onto a stay, but as model makers we mostly use a solid core covered in line.
Ladies tights material is perfect for replicating the weave look particularly at smaller scales, but don’t get caught  rummaging thro’ her underwear drawer.
 

 
2395
The weave treatment is applied
 

0266(2)
A completed Mouse.
 

0280
Main Stay in place
 
Mouse - Preventer Stay
 
The Mouse is simply a smaller version of the Main Stay mouse.
L =1/3 circ of stay = 2.77mm
ø = 3 x ø of stay =2.64mm
For this smaller mouse I used 2.3mm ø tubing inserted inside 3.2mm ø tubing.
 

0253
The Preventer Stay Mouse before shaping.
 

0291(2)
Preventer stay mouse in place.
 

0288
I opted to place the mouses Mainstay (port), Preventer stay (Starboard)
 

0292
 
Part Two will cover the lower end attachments.
 
 
B.E.
04/02/2020
 
 
 

Post 63

Completing the masthead blocks and raising the Gaff.

 
Standing blocks are required for the Boom topping lift and the Gaff Halyards.

0229(2)
These are stropped with served line using a 4mm block for the boom topping lift and 3mm blocks for the Gaff Peak halyards.

(The kit has them stropped to eyebolts in the masthead)

 
When it comes to the how and where elements of rigging the gaff and boom tackle things get a little more confusing.
Gaff


4421
Raising the Gaff.

 
The Gaff Throat Halyard or Gaff jeer tackle, as it is referred to in the Alert book is set up with the standing block secured around the masthead, with the tackle hooked to an eyebolt atop the gaff jaws, the fall being secured at the bitts. (behind the mast)

The kit instructions also show the fall secured to the bitts.

Steel calls this the inner tye, but describes a completely different set up.

INNER-TYE is similar to the outer tye, and hooks to an eye-bolt in the jaws of the gaff; then reeves through the lower iron-bound-block, that hooks to an eye-bolt in the aftside of the mast-head, below the rigging. It has a double-block bent to the lower end, and sets up by the haliards;, the lower block hooking to an eye-bolt on the opposite side to the other tye.

The Cheerful rigging plan shows this secured to the pin rack on the Portside.

I have opted to follow the Alert book /kit arrangement.
 


0228
Throat halyard tackle attached to the gaff.

 
Peak Halyard

The Alert book indicates that the Gaff peak halyard tackle block is secured to the Portside channel but doesn’t indicate further where the tackle fall is belayed.

The kit shows the running end of the peak halyard belaying to the bitts without a tackle attached.

Steel calls this the outer tye and indicates that the halyard block is hooked to an eyebolt in the deck close behind the mast.

TYE, OR HALIARD, reeves through a block on the span, that clinches or splices round the middle of the gaff. The standing-part of the tye clinches round the mast-head, or hooks to an eyebolt in the mast-head: the other end reeves through a second iron-bound-block, hooked to an eyebolt in the mast-head, and at the lower end is the double-haliard-block, that does not splice as other haliards, but reeves through the strap, and makes fast with a hitch; and the remainder is expended in turns round the block and strap. The haliard-block connects by its fall to a single or double block, hooked to an eye-bolt in the deck, close behind the mast.
The Cheerful rigging plan shows this without a standing end with the halyards belayed to both the Portside pin rack opposite the mast, and to a cleat on the mast. Cheerful did however post date Alert by some thirty years.

 
I have opted to follow the Alert book arrangement with the tackle block hooked in the Portside channel the running end will be secured to a shroud cleat.

This at least keeps the tackle away from the boom.

0221
Upper end of the Peak Halyards.

04424
Connecting the block to the peak halyard using a ‘false’ splice.

0219
Lower end of Peak halyards tackle hooked to the Portside channels.

 
Boom Topping Lift

The Alert book has the standing part clinched around the boom end, runs up thro’ the standing block at the masthead, with a single block seized into the fall which is positioned at a level just short of halfway down the mast.

The tackle block is hooked to an eyebolt in the aft end of the  starboard channel.

The kit plan follows this arrangement with the running end secured to a cleat on the drift rail.

Steel has a slightly more substantial arrangement:

TOPPING-LIFT is taken upon the starboard-side, and reeved through the upper-block, hooked to an eye-bolt in the mast-head; then lead down and reeved through the block at the boom-end. The standing-part clinches round the mast-head, or hooks to the same eye-bolt; the leading-part comes down, and has a double-block spliced in, or turned, that connects by its fall to a single-block, and hooks to an eye-bolt in the after part of the channel, and belays to a pin in the shroud-rack. Sometimes it has the addition of a runner and sometimes rigged as the driver-boom in ships.

I have opted to follow the Alert book /kit arrangement.
 
Rigging the Topping Lift

For the lift I am using Syren 0.6mm line with a 4mm single block spliced into the end. The tackle is 0.3mm line, spliced into the strop of the lift, with the tackle running thro’ a 4mm single block hooked to the starboard channel.

This is slightly heavier tackle than shown on the kit plan.


0233
Topping Lift spliced around the boom end.

0234
Topping lift passing thro’ the masthead block.

0230
'Splicing' the block into the lift end.

0245
Tackle hooked to the Starboard channel.


0244(2)
Run of the Topping Lift.

0232
Not in any hurry to secure these lines yet, snagging lines that have been tied off can present problems, and there are endless opportunities for this to happen.


 
 
B.E.

02/02/2020

 
 
 
 
 
 

Post 62

 
Time to attach the shrouds

Not one of my favourite jobs stropping the upper deadeyes, but it’s that point in the build.

It’s a little more tricky stropping the deadeyes if the correct procedure is followed whereby the line crosses in front of the shroud with a cross seizing above the deadeye before applying two further seizings to the standing part.

0195
Fitting the cross seizing.


0200
Seizing the shroud ends.


0202(2)
The seized end lies aft on the Portside and forward on the Starboard side as shown above.

I note that the centre channel deadeye has twisted around, one of the benefits of macro photo’s is highlighting issues.


0204
I rig the shrouds alternatively starboard and port, setting the level with the foremost shroud. From that point onwards I set them by eye as I move along the channel.

I temporarily rigged a section of the rope guard rail as an additional guide.


0207
The seizings are yet to be dyed, I find it easier with my less than good eyesight to fit them in natural thread, better contrast against the dark shrouds.

I am using Morope 0.1mm line for the seizing, and Syren 0.3mm line for the lanyards. I won’t tie off the lanyards until later in the rigging process, when I will adjust the final tension.

 

0203

0210

0212

0215

0216
A sort of build milestone when the shrouds are rigged, but there’s still a long way to go in this build.


 
 
B.E.

29/01/2020

Post 61
Blocks and strops around the Masthead
 
There are a number of blocks and strops to fit around the masthead for the yard ties, and other tackles.
I held-off fitting these before stepping the mast and fitting the standing rigging so I could better assess the pendent lengths and positions relative to the yards.
 
Atop the running backstays the pendent and strop for the Gaff jeer tackle block is fitted.

4418
A 4mm double block is stropped into the pendent.

4413
At the lower end a 4mm single block is hooked to the gaff.
 

4417
This now allows for the gaff and its tackle to be fitted to the model, temporarily secured at present in the lowered position.
 
Above this are the pendents and standing blocks for the Spread-sail and Square-sail yards.
I adopted the Alert book arrangement of hanging the Yard tye pendents from the mast head rather than follow the kit arrangement of having separate cleats to support the tyes at different levels down the mast.
 
However, once again there are inconsistencies in the Alert Book
Drawing H18/3 AND H22/1 show the spread-sail and Square-sail tye blocks in opposing positions.
 
I took the view that the longer Spread-sail tye pendent went over the masthead first.
 

4408
Seizing the pendent around the mast head.
 

4416
The tyes were made from 0.3mm ø served line stropped with a single 4mm blocks.
 
The final strop below the T’gallant mast is for the Topsail yard tye.

0180

0181
This fits between the trestletrees and is held in place by cleats on the Topmast head.

0179
The three standing tye blocks for the Topsail, Square-sail, and Spread-sail yards.

0187

0189
Now getting into a very messy stage with loose ends, there are still strops to make and the fitting of the horse to figure out.
 
 
 
B.E.
27/01/2020
 
 

Post 58
Fitting the shrouds
 
The biggest serving job relates to the fore shroud where the line is served overall.
I used Syren 0.88mm line served with the kit provided 0.1mm line.
Once served the line was re- dipped in the dye to darken it.
 
An afternoons’ work to prepare and serve the forward pair of shrouds Port and Starboard.
With the pendents and first two pairs of shrouds fitted I am in a better position to check the room necessary for the rest of the standing rigging.
 
I had made an estimation in the position of the rigging stop to allow for increased size of rigging due to extra lines and serving but this has proved insufficient to fit it all in.
The prospect of moving the stop down the mast was a little nerve jangling but with water and gentle tapping with a hammer this was achieved without drama.
 

4389
The top of the stop now sits 14mm below the cheeks as compared with 4mm on the kit plan.
Something to bear in mind if you intend to go off piste with the rigging, as Dirk found out and noted in a previous post.
 

0150
It proved less irksome than I had imagined seizing the shrouds atop the stop, but I’m thankful it is only a cutter I’m rigging.
 

0152
There is now sufficient space to accommodate the remaining  lines.

0148(2)
The last line in the set along the channel is the *lower mast standing backstay, effectively an additional shroud except the ratlines don’t cross it.
* Or is it – see subsequent post.

0155

0153

0156(2)
After this point the rigging gets confusing which will be the subject of my next post.
 
 
B.E.
22/01/20
 
 

Post 49

Hull completion

This post marks six months into the build and completion of the hull by the fitting of the gun side tackles and remaining deck fittings.

4089

4094

4084

4085(2)

7771

4097

4091(2)

4092

4090

7764(2)
 
That’s it for 2019.

Wishing my fellow MSW members successful modelling in 2020


 
 
B.E.

29/12/2019

 

Post 48
Gun rigging (Part 2)
 
 The breeching ropes are at last attached, and scuffs on the iron work touched in.
 

4005(2)

4001(2)
It is time to fix the guns in place along the bulwarks.
A small dot of pva is applied to the trucks to fix them to the deck, and the breeching lines can then be attached to the bulwark.
 

4023
Quite fiddly getting the eyebolts into the bulwark holes without marking the paintwork or even worse the gun blackening.
 

4024
The eyebolts also have to be orientated to allow the Breeching line to hang properly.

4028

4015
The Breeching lines are not glued down and it’s quite nice not to have to fight them to get them to drape naturally.

4013

4025(2)

4026(2)

4029
 
I’m quite pleased with the look of her, but now onto those side tackles, 24 tackles to make up, - what joy. 🙄
Happy Christmas to my fellow MSW members, and thank you to those who have shown interest in my build over the past six months.
 
 
Gun Rigging (Part 3)

In this post I am making up the Side tackles, again jigs are required to ease the pain of making up these fiddly little items.

4036(2)
The Alert Book indicates 5” double* and single (hooked) block combinations for the side tackles. These equate to 2mm blocks at scale.

 
*I seem to recall that only single blocks were used on small guns such as six pounders, so that is what I will use.

 
The tackle line is given as 2” circumference with 30’ length

This scales to 0.25mm ø with a length of 143mm.



Making up the tackles

 I am using Syren Boxwood 3/32” blocks (2.38mm) to give me a little leeway over the tiny 2mm blocks given that hooks must be attached.

 

4033(2)
For the hooks I am using Syren 3mm black plastic hooks, something Chuck no longer supplies, but they are ideal for tackle rigging at small scales, much neater than the equivalent 3mm brass etched versions.

 
For the tackle lines I am using Syren 0.20mm line which will provide a visible contrast to the heavier Breeching lines.

 
The blocks are rigged using a third hand tool, and the tackles are completed on the ‘Gun’ jig.

 
 Each tackle assembly takes me around 20 minutes to complete. For the full set around eight hours of work are required, but it feels a lot longer than that.

 
Side tackles are difficult to get looking right; often on models the blocks look over-scale and with the necessary addition of hooks there is only a short space between the two blocks, which makes the tackle arrangement look unconvincing.

 
There is a particular issue with Alert where the securing eyebolts for the tackles are placed in the faces of the shot garlands, reducing the distance between the tackle blocks.

 
In practice with guns run out the tackle blocks are quite close together as apparent on this shot of a twelve pounder on the Quarterdeck of Victory.


12 Pounder gun, Victory Qtr Deck.
I much prefer this look of secured tackles rather than stylized cheeses arranged on the deck.
The Royal Yacht Squadron it ain’t.

Getting a loose frap arrangement at model scale is very tricky, so my approach is to frap the lines and arrange the line ends in a loose coil.

This too is somewhat stylized, but it is my option at this scale.

Once made it is fairly simple to attach the tackles to the guns. and making up separate coils completes the job.

 
 
B.E.
24/12/2019
 

Post 44

Bits and pieces

Side steps

These are plain affairs that will stand a little enhancing with extra profiling. The kit items do however include the hand holds.

Two outboard steps are indicated although I note that four are shown on the Marshall painting.

Same problem here as with Cheerful; it looks like there ought to be additional steps.

Two steps may just pass muster with the open drift arrangement, effectively an extra step, but the distance between the upper of two steps and the closed in Drift rail is the same as the distance taken up by both two lower steps.


3862(2)
For this reason, I have decided to fit three outboard steps, the added third step being fixed just above the sheer rail.

Inboard steps: the kit doesn’t provide these, whereas the Alert book shows a three-step inboard entry ladder between deck and Drift rail.

With my current set up a ladder would cover the shot rack and interfere with gun side tackles for the second from aft gun.

Still, I think there should be steps, so it looks like re-visiting the Rough-tree rail and shot rack.


3630
I identified the problem as the hance coming too far forward on the Drift-rail, preventing the ladders clearing the side tackles.

Worth mentioning that use of pva allows for painless removal of the rail, quite a delicate fitting, which would not have been the case had I used ca.

I keep use of ca to the absolute minimum on my builds, there is often a need to do modifications and ca tends to make the wood brittle and using acetone to loosen ca can be a messy business.

 

3852
The hance has been modified, the shot rack moved aft, and the inboard ladders installed.


3864(2)

3860(2)
Layout looks more logical to my eye now.

Not yet ready to fix the deck fittings but it’s been a while since I reviewed the layout.


3839(2)

3840(2)

3845(2)

3843

3842

3838
Time to move on.

B.E.

12/12/2019
 
 
 

Post 40
Rough Tree Rails
This involved more than a little trial and error.
Each section had to be independently fitted between the Swivel posts, whilst hopefully maintaining an even run of the rail.
Before I started I both pinned and glued the Finger and Thumb timberheads between the posts; I used the kit provided items.
The forward end of the rail ends in a curved hance. This was fashioned from some 2mm Boxwood Sheet and cut out on the scroll saw.

3628

3630
Went a little easier than I thought it would be.

3638
A re-check of the swivel fit.

3650
Lemuel my Helmsman assists with a scale check.

3657
Whilst I was on a roll I continued to complete the Timberheads and swivel post at the bow.
I used the kit provided Timberheads (Finger and Thumb) as they are nicely shaped and good for scale. As they are to be painted I didn’t think it worth the effort to reproduce in Boxwood.

3654
The provided Swivel pedestals, rectangular affairs, I replaced with Boxwood Octagonal versions. The measurement I took from the Alert Book.

3669

3665(2)

3666

3664
 
B.E.
25/11/2019

Post 36
Preparing the Guns.
I have replaced the kit provided guns with RB Brass versions.
To these the Royal Monograms (Syren) and representations of the vent holes are added.
The Monograms are exceptionally fragile items and there is quite a high attrition rate. Even so once stuck they will withstand the acid dip and the blackening fluid.

0003
I used the smallest of the Syren Monograms.
Once the gun is thoroughly cleaned the Monograms and vents were added.
A tiny spot of thick ca is applied to the gun and the monogram gently pressed into place.

0044
This flash shot shows up the Monograms but is not a true reflection of the colour.

0039(2)
This shot more closely reflects the colour.
It takes several re-dips following cleaning off any residual ca to get the desired finish, and from this point plastic gloves are worn when handling the guns.

3497(2)
I don’t buff the surface but seal it using slightly thinned Humbrol Matt Cote, this both protects and deepens the colour a little.
So, here’s the completed set.

3500

3503

3505

3506

3501(2)

3498
It has taken about five days’ work to reach this point, but I consider taking extra time with the guns is well worth the effort.
On an open decked vessel such as a cutter they are a major feature and very exposed to view.
 
In my next post I will be covering the combining of guns and carriages and adding the fine detail.
 
B.E.
16/11/2019

Post 35
Perhaps the most eye-catching deck fitting on a cutter is the Windlass and Carrick bitts.
I rather like making up these parts and Chris has provided in the kit the makings for a good set.
The laser cut wooden parts are cleanly cut and have a good surface for painting.
The kit provides a resin windlass spindle which is nicely formed and requiring very little clean up.
It is also a good match for scale against the Alert Book drawings.
Unlike wooden versions where the option is to varnish or paint, paint is the only option. If it is to be painted red, as often represented on models, no problem, otherwise getting a good colour mix is the main issue.

3479
I wasn’t too keen on the suggested dark wood colour, but not quite sure what I’m after; perhaps a sort of washed out salt stained wood colour that will provide a contrast to the Carrick bits (Red) and other woodwork. Fiddling around with paint mixes is the only way to go.

3478
The final addition to the Carrick Bitts are the straps that secure the cheeks to the Bitts. Nice brass etched well scaled items are provided.

3476
One addition that can be reproduced are representations of the iron hoops at the outer ends of the warping heads on the Windlass. These are made from my old standby of heat shrink tubing.
Jeer and Topsail Bitts
This is the remaining significant centre line deck fitting.

3460
Cleanly cut, easy to assemble parts with a resin windlass complete with pawl drums.

3461
The only extra which may be considered are tiny pawls, but they are very tiny.
 
Pumps
In the kit the elm tree pump casings are represented by some 4mm dowel into which the multi-part pe Brake handle mechanism is glued.

3459
Strictly speaking the casing should be octagonal in section and I prefer to make mine from square section Boxwood.

3467
One of the things to note when fitting these to the deck is that they are not vertical but angle outwards very slightly.

3471
Not too sure from the kit instructions how high above deck the pump casings should stand. The instructions indicate gluing the pump handle assembly into 40mm long dowel but doesn’t elaborate further.
 Taking my guide from the Alert book I have settled on a length of 14mm above deck.

3466
To finish the pumps, I added the discharge ports and the iron bands top and bottom.
 
Coming together now, but still too early to fix these deck fittings.

3483

3485

3490
Back to the guns I think.
 
 
B.E
11/11/2019

Post 34
Creating a Bowsprit
For this I am using 6mm square stock to produce a spar 275mm in length.
The square section is marked with tape as is the outer end.
 
There is a formula in Steel based on Quarters along the length from the square section forward.
1st Q           2ND Q         3RD Q         Outer end
 60/61        11/12          4/5               5/9 
5.90mm      5.5mm      4.8mm          3.3mm

3441
These stations are marked on a card for checking the diameters as the tapering progresses.
Before turning on the lathe the square edges are taken off using a ‘V’ jig.
Various grades of sandpaper are used to produce the taper.

3445
With the sprit completed, additional fid holes are drilled thro’ the square section.

3456
This is a good time to fix the iron hoop to support the Bowsprit.
A nicely presented etched item complete with square bolt plates.

3447
Iron fids have replaced the simplified kit arrangement, they will be trimmed on final fitting.

3450
The square section has come in at 5.75mm but I did in the end take a shave off the inner sides of the bitts, which is not apparent to the naked eye.

3449(2)
My eye tells me that it passes muster so the set up can now be put aside for the present.
 
B.E.
09/11/2019
 
 

Thanks for looking in Guy, and for your kind appreciation.
 
Post 31
Bulwark attachments
This is a good point in the build to deal with the iron work along the bulwarks and other stuff where the centre line fittings would get in the way.
 
Ringbolts and eyebolts for the gun tackle.
The kit provides brass pe etch items for the breeching rope ring bolts. All that is necessary is to fit the ring over the open bolt and close it up.
However, the kit makes no reference to rigging the guns and if you use the kit tackle and intend rigging, it is wise to check that the intended Breeching rope fits thro’ the provided etch rings.

3381(2)
My preferred option is to use Amati fine rings and eyebolts as per the centre example.
 
I think it is appropriate and certainly more authentic at 1:64 scale to rig the guns with breeching ropes and side tackles, and I intend to do so. The main concern is to get the combination and blocks looking right with the carriage.
The Breeching rope is 4¼” circ; equating to 0.54mm ø at scale
I will use Syren 0.6mm ø line which provides the right visual contrast to the finer tackle lines. I tend to use slightly undersized tackle lines blocks and hooks.
There should also be eyebolts to take the side tackle hooks; in the Alert book drawings these are secured to the face of the shot garlands fitted to the bulwark.
Shot Garlands
These are neat laser cut items and the shot (2mm ø) is also provided. My immediate thought was that the provided shot looked at tad overscale.
Naturally I couldn’t resist trying the ball for fit in the muzzle and not surprisingly it doesn’t.
 
The bore for a six pounder is given as 3.675” (how did they measure that close with the technology they had at the time) with a 3½” ø ball.
At scale the bore works out at 1.46 mm.  and the model gun is 1.56mm; 1.50mm ø shot it is then.

3380(2)
This did mean I had to modify the Garlands to take the smaller shot.
 On the left, 2mm shot; on the right, 1.5mm shot.

3384
Tricky little items to fit I used a guide to get the right height.

3399
The ring bolts  for the Breeching ropes are not fixed at this time, they will be attached to the ropes before  gluing to the bulwarks.
While I was looking at the shot garlands and their position along the bulwarks, I became aware of differences between the kit and the Alert book drawings. There is a much greater  spacing between the third and fourth ports from aft on the book drawings, (C2/1) which appears between the fourth and fifth from aft in the kit.

The kit follows the arrangement on the Admiralty drawings.
 The book deck plan drawing(C2/1) shows a longer garland accommodating 11 balls. On the Admiralty plan there are two smaller garlands which seems more logical as a continuous rack would be over eight feet in length.
The kit provided garland sits centrally within the greater space which is relevant because as noted earlier the side tackle eyebolts are fixed to the garlands.

3395
I added two shorter Garlands within the space which maintains the continuity of the side tackle arrangements.

3392(2)
Not sorry to see the end of this fiddley little exercise.
Movin’ on.
 
B.E.
06/11/2019
 
 

Thank you Dirk, Rusty, and Jim. 🙂
 
Post 29
Today I received the replacement ordnance for Alert.

3352

3349

3350

3351
These are 29mm Brass guns from RB Models, Poland, and represent good value at £10.00 delivered. The carriages are the kit provided ones.
I can now move onto completing the guns.
 
B.E.
31/10/2019
 

Post 28
 Hatches
Main Hatch
The kit provides a quick and easy method of assembly with pre- cut joints for the Head ledges and coamings, and pe brass  gratings.
A simple arrangement, and this is the first kit I have come across with brass etched gratings. A good idea perhaps at smaller scales but for me wooden gratings look better and are perfectly feasible at 1:64.
The Head ledges lack any round up, and the brass gratings also lack the cut-outs to allow passage of the anchor cables, but I suppose the brass ones could be carefully modified.

3294
My approach is to use the brass grating as a template to form a Boxwood version, and then build the head ledges and coamings around that, also in Boxwood.
Altho’ the framing will be painted the Boxwood will provide a far better surface to take the paint.

3316
For the Gratings I am using Chuck’s (Syren) Cambered Boxwood strips and grating jig.
These are a good match for scale and take all the pain out of grating construction.
 
Fore Hatch

3315
I also adopted the same approach to the Fore hatch and replaced the kit gratings with wooden versions, and included the ladder leading down to the lower deck.
 
The Bread Room scuttle
This is represented in the kit by a solid cover whereas the Alert book drawings show it as a grating.
On my kit the laser cut lid was a poor fit to the provided frame and I discarded both.

3308
Because I like gratings better than covers, I went with a grating.
This grating is not one of Chuck’s, but a temporary fitting until fresh supplies arrive.

3298

3299

3302

3304(2)

3313
Having made a few fittings, I will now return to do a few other necessary jobs on the hull, scuppers, ring bolts for the bulwarks, and a rudder coat come to mind.
 
B.E
30/10/2019



 

Post 26
Companionways and hatches
I will start with the Companion to the Captain’s Cabin, effectively a hinged sky light.
This is reproduced in the kit as a brass etched item, with the coamings and head ledges pre-formed in a wood material. These are shaped to reflect the proper joints rather than a simple edge join.
The item goes together very well and it is a straightforward assembly particularly for the novice builder.
The kit version is as per the drawings in the Goodwin Alert book. A boxy affair with a flat top and glazed square lights.
A slight puzzlement is that the kit version has 42 lights contained within the frame whereas the book drawing has 30 lights, which for me looks better, less like a grating.
 
There seems to be as many variations of the Skylight design fitted to Alert as there are models and paintings.
 
Within the Alert book there is a contemporary painting of a model dated 1775 showing a clerestory style skylight.
The contemporary model of Hawke (circa 1777) shows the familiar pitched roof glazed sides version.
The modern Cole model of Alert has a glazed top but longer, and in a different position.
The Irving Kingman model also has a version of the pitched roof style of skylight.
 
I made up the kit version but I tweaked the thickness of the framing to allow for the skylight to sit in a recess rather than just positioned atop the Head ledges and coamings.

3242
Using micro brass tubing I added hinges to allow opening of the light.
 
My preference is for something slightly more interesting than the kit provided item, so I opted for the clerestory style as shown in the painting of the model of ‘Alert.’

The oil painting by Joseph Marshall 1775.
 
 The notation in the Goodwin Alert book reads:-
An oil painting of the Alert cutter model dated 1775. Various features comply exactly to the modified draught of the Rattlesnake used for the 1777 Alert. These include the squared gunports, the five shroud deadeyes and three backstays chain plates. The painting formed part of the George111 Collection of ship model paintings.


This is at variance to the notation in The Science Museum:- who hold the painting, and gives the date as 1755. Perspective view, possibly drawn to illustrate an experimental design rather than an actual plan. a model is known to have been built from design of Sir J Acworth d.1749. - Not part of the series of ship model paintings commissioned by King George III. - Ship is cutter, 6th Rate; eight were in service 1753-1754

Interesting to note that the table on which the model sits, does say ‘Alert’.

The paired stern quarter view painting
 
Regardless of these descriptions, the model as painted does look very close in design to the Alert I am modelling.
Still I digress.

3241
This is the first attempt of creating the skylight using a bit of Boxwood scrap.
My prime concern was getting the scale looking right as I don’t have specific dimensions, but it looks ok to my eye.

3232(2)
A view as per Joseph Marshall’s painting.
 
B.E.
26/10/2019
 

Post 20
Finishing the hull
This involves scraping the boards to clean and fair them into the bow and sternpost, and then drilling the estimated 2500 holes for the securing bolts.
I have taken the measurements for spacing from the Alert book, which work out to a 7mm spacing at scale.
I am using 24swg 0.56mm ø copper wires to represent the bolts.

2814
A week of fairly concerted effort sees the hull bolted.
 
With this done the tricky waterline question remains. Not one of my favourite jobs and the clinker is an added problem.
How do I get an effective waterline marked?
 
In marking the waterline, it seems best to me, having set the level at the bow low point, to start at the centre high point of the line and work fore and aft. That way the line runs with the lap and the pencil is not thrown off by the ridges.

2815
Once the line is marked, Tamiya tape for curves is run along the lines to check by eye that both sides look even.

2819
I’ve never found that this Tamiya tape works particularly well, doesn’t seem to have as much grab as the yellow version.

2824
Altho’ I’m satisfied with the line of the waterline, inevitably I’m not going to get a sealed line to paint along, and my main concern is that the waterline line looks good with the clinker effect at model scale.
The top line will have to be painted free hand using the tape as a guide. The rub is that once committed it would prove difficult to go back to an unmarked hull.
 
I would hate it to look like a wobbly line, but doing it is the only way to see one way or the other, so time to bite the bullet.
 
I have used a basic white Humbrol  acrylic paint to lay down a base coat and assess the effect, but I intend to use a less stark  paint for the finish, perhaps Admiralty paints Light Ivory or Coral white.

2832

2838
I am relieved that the top line is far better than I had envisaged just a tiny amount of fussing and tweaking will be required.

2839

2840

2844(2)

2849(2)
I will now try to get the lower hull finish looking as good as I can before the upper hull is sealed with poly.
 
B.E.
08/10/2019
 
 

Hi Rob,
 
the contrast between the pale wooden strips and the black parts in the crosstrees is pleasant to the eye.
A very good idea.