Plank Beveling and stealers

[bigpav]

Hey guys I have a question that I should have asked earlier. I read all the articles about planking and I am still somewhat baffled. When you plank, you are supposed to bevel the upper back side of each plank to mate correctly to the last plank, correct? If so, how do you guys do it? Jig? Hobby knife? Sandpaper? Lastley, can someone please explain stealers and half stealers, I really am not grasping that.

 

The current build that I am doing is my first. It is a single later plank, which is plank on frame correct? I have a few planks down and I feel that I am doing it wrong. I know that this model will be painted so I can use wood filler, but I do not want to get into any bad habits or teach myself a bad skill set. I also want to stick with, but I feel as though I am getting discouraged and I only have 5 planks down. Any help would be great and would be very much appreciated.

 

Thanks

Scott

[russ]

Scott:

There was a thread about stealers a while back.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2512-planking/?hl=stealer#entry65273

 

As for the beveling you describe, I think you mean back beveling. That can be done with sandpaper or an emory board, depending on the wood you are using. Back beveling will make any joint fit a bit better. 

 

For matching that curve of the preceding plank, what you could do is called spiling. You are creating a curve on the edge of one plank so that it matches the curve of the preceding plank. I use a compass (the kind with a pencil on one leg and a metal point on the other leg) to transfer the curve onto a piece of wood that will become the next plank. Then I use a hobby knife with a scalpel blade to cut along the curved line. Leave a little outside the line and then sand that to final shape after some trial fitting. Once the spiled edge is a fit, then you can mark off the taper for that plank on the edge opposite from the spiled edge and cut that with the knife, again leaving it a little full to allow for final sanding.

 

If your model has solid bulkheads, then that is called plank on bulkhead. The matter of single versus double planking has nothing to do with plank on bulkhead versus plank on frame. You can single or double plank either POB or POF models. Plank on frame models will have frames built up out of (generally) several pieces and plank on bulkhead will have (generally) single piece solid bulkheads.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Russ

[dgbot]

There are several tutorials about planking.  Several of them can be found here.  A single planked model means you have to take a little more care when laying your planks.  Try to plan ahead and double check your runs. This will involve bending and shaping them to fit the hull .

David B

[bigpav]

Thanks guys, I guess my biggest concern right now is when and where do I use stealers?

[russ]

Ideally, they should be used down lower in the hull and most likely aft where the planks want to widen out as they approach the sternpost.

 

Russ

[druxey]

A good planning challenge is to see if you can lay out your planking with as few stealers as possible, or none at all. You will certainly need them on a 'tubby' hull.

[russ]

Druxey:

On a "tubby" hull would you need stealers or drop planks?

 

I agree that planking can and should be run without stealers.

 

Russ

Edited June 24, 2013 by russ

[S.Coleman]

A stealer is a plank that sits mainly by the stem post or sometimes at the bow, it's job is to allow for the widening of the planks as they run there cures towards the stern. A stealer will allow two planks to meet and turn into one wider plank., A half stealer will have just one plank joining up to it and turn it into a wider plank. I hope this helps in any way

[druxey]

Whoops: you are quite right, Russ! I apologize. It was rather late last night when I wrote that. Drop planks, i.e. reducing two strakes to one, or three to two will be required on a bluff-bowed hull form.