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Posted

This is my second wooden ship model (although I built a lot of plastic ship models as a kid), after the Grand Banks Dory by the same company, and this is my first build log. I hope I don't break any rules! I am getting a lot of assistance from a series of videos posted online by an experienced plastic modeler who is also building his first wood models using these kits.

 

Fitting the transom knees, I felt like I knew what I was doing. Same with beveling the transoms,  although I realised that if the bottom of the bottom planks were going to be flush with the keel plank, I had to remove more wood than the lines indicated. The building board was a real mess. The 2 transom supports didn't really work as advertised. The bow transom was hanging off the front of the building board, and the stern transom was 1/8 inch above the board. I shortened the bow support, and lengthened the slot in the stern transom to get everything in place. I also broke the stern support - twice! A spare piece of wood glued to the back, and some painters tape got everything fairly shipshape.

image.png.05c90dafe1bf0f4cab17f6d45c2f1bf6.png 

 

I bent the planks on the building board using hot water. I checked the fit of the bottom and keel planks before I glued anything. I realised that the angle of the stern transom prevented the knee from touching the keel plank. A wedge and a "crutch" got the alignment correct.

 

image.png.0aae7562355e446c402366a4cceeec0f.png

 

I don't trust my chiselling skills, so I used a sanding block to make the rabbets. I marked the rabbets, and used a straight edge to keep the sanding block in line.

image.png.6b679580f74526c18b20640bc5cfcb86.pngimage.png.ba3203b599abcc8eb4245aa8203fe0d9.png

 

The garboards went on easily, but the second planks and shear strakes were a challange to keep aligned while bendong and gluing, as I am sure anyone who has built this kit knows. When I was bending the shear strakes I realized the top of the planks were supposed to line up with the curved line on the back of the stern transom. Mine were well above it. I lined up the planks with the line, used a pencil to scribe where the bottom part of the planks met the second plank, and used that as a guide to sand off the excess. I worked pretty well, I  think:

image.png.69b832b808464cdabaad0321ac8cda4e.png

 

That's how it looked after some putty to fill a few gaps. The bow end also turned out fairly well.

image.png.48bd559f0402ce38afc7948a0034b4bf.png

 

I spend my glue-drying-time working on my Lego and alt-Lego sets, but that's for another forum. The skeg went on easily. There are no exact measurements provided for where the bilge keels sit, but I used the plan of the real-world boat in the manual and some algebra to figure out there was a scale 7" overlap with the skeg. After bidding a fond farewell to the building board, I added the dagger board case. I put the daggerboard in it before the glue set, and used a machinest's square against the bottom of the keel plank to make sure it was plumb. The bottom frames were a bit of a puzzle, but ended up looking OK.

image.png.37f43d420582216c69020365c2652863.png

That's it so far. Now on to the fussy little bits!

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Posted

Looks like a nice start the model.

 

As always, model building has learning opportunities and problem solving when things don't 'work as advertised.' And it looks like you have a good handle on the process.

 

I look forward to watching this build. 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Robert Chenoweth

 

Current Build: Maine Peapod; Midwest Models; 1/14 scale.

 

In the research department:

Nothing at this time.

 

Completed models (Links to galleries): 

Monitor and Merrimack; Metal Earth; 1:370 and 1:390 respectively.  (Link to Build Log.)

Shrimp Boat; Lindbergh; 1/60 scale (as commission for my brother - a tribute to a friend of his)

North Carolina Shad Boat; half hull lift; scratch built.  Scale: (I forgot).  Done at a class at the NC Maritime Museum.

Dinghy; Midwest Models; 1/12 scale

(Does LEGO Ship in a Bottle count?)

 

Posted

Looks great for your second wood project    
One of the advantages over plastic is that the glue doesn’t melt it and leave an unsightly surface. Also remember with wood you are basically building a small ship and if you make a mistake it can be corrected even if it requires dismantling the entire area by any means necessary. 
Wecome to MSW. I think you will find wooden ship modeling very rewarding but addicting. 
You are a close neighbor. I live in Lanesboro Ma and like you I have been modeling since I was a kid. If you have any problems with builds feel free to message me, I might be able to help. 

Best RVB (Rick) 

 

 

Posted

Tom

I forgot to add aways remember that  when things go really bad “A little plaster and a little paint make things look like what they ain’t”. If you adhere to that saying after the repair you will definitely feel better. We have all been there many times in a build. 
Best Again Rick

Posted

RVB,

Thanks for the encouragement, and for the offer of help! Good to know there's another Berkshireite on the forum. I'll be showing some of my "a little plaster" in my next post. The quarter knees taxed my beveling abilities.

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