Question: Planking Corel's HMS VIC

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

I have been struggling with the stern fillers on my Corel HMS Victory for too long and would like to know if what I am thinking is correct 

 

Facts:

 

The keel is 5mm ply with a thin last layer of walnut. I would assume that Corel did this because some of it is to be exposed. 

 

There are no additional pieces to make up the stern post and the supplied keel matches the outline including it

 

The rudder is also made up of  5mm wood and matches the keel thickness prior to any planking 

 

The plans clearly all show a keel post 

 

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Normally I would think that this would mean that you would cut a rabbet but this is a double planked kit.

 

This leaves me which one other possibility and the reason for my post

 

Has anyone ever built a kit where the planking terminated in the stern the same as it does in the bow. It seems to make sense on this kit. If I were to shape the stern fillers so the planks wrapped around them and all ran into the keel as they do in the bow I would be left with a finished piece of wood (the keel) coming up to the rudder at the correct thickness. Then I could scribe in the keel post and caulking to match my planking.

 

Sadliy it might be a little late for me and I have other plans explained in my log but the purpose of this post is to know if this method would be something a kit manufacturer would consider "normal" and possibly aide future builders of this kit. The Corel instructions say to use normal planking methods. Is this normal.  

 

I don't think it would look bad. The gar-board plank would be the only one that might give you a small problem 

Edited October 10, 2014 by JPett

[NMBROOK]

Hi JPett

This design is common amongst many Italian kits.They are designed so the first planking is feathered out at the bearding line.The second planking is then clad on top and cut short to create what appears to be a stern post.The exposed ply forms the sternpost and there is a step where the second planking ends.You can rebate the plywood to take the second planking,but if it were me,I would find it easier to cut away what is the sternpost,reduce the thickness of the ply and fair everything.You can then apply the second planking and trim along what would be the vertical rabbet at the sternpost.The sternpost can then be replaced with a solid piece of walnut in your case.

Round tuck sterns and double planking is always a bit of a 'fudge'.When you have fillers behind,I would not be concerned about sanding completely through the first planking to the block behind.I have done this on many occasion to get the correct line as the planks curl around to meet counter and sternpost.

 

Kind regards

 

Nigel

[JPett]

Ahoy NMBrook 

 

Thanks for chiming in. This dilemma has caused quite a work stoppage in my shipyard. 

 

So are you saying that my thinking to terminate the planking at the filler is incorrect. This would not bother me BTW. It is only the correct or best procedure I am looking for. 

 

If I am understanding you correctly what Corel would like to see is the first planking coming into the hull short of the stern post and feathered to the keel. The second coming over this and then being tapered to around 1mm and terminating at a point to create the keel post leaving a raised seam stepping down to the keel post. I would think this method might cause additional grief and be further highlighted in an undesirable way when any Rudder hardware is installed; but do see it as a workable solution.

 

 

I like your suggestion to just remove the part that represents the stern post on the keel and replace it. Please feel free to correct me  but it would need to be cut into the keel as the keel post would normally be sitting on top of the lower wood that runs the length of the hull. Perhaps I can taper the keel here a bit first to allow for some of the second planking to recess. Perhaps I could also use a slightly thicker piece of wood and taper it to meet the rudder. This would still allow me to cover the rest of the exposed keel with a thin laminate and take care of a few other shortcoming of the kit.

.

Thank you  

 

 

[NMBROOK]

Hi again JPett

This is one of those things that is hard to put into words

Ok,run the first planking completely over your filler pieces and then feather and reduce the thickness of it after it is completed.You want to be aiming for full thickness when the planking meets the filler,tapering to nothing where it meets the sternpost.If you are in anyway concerned to the plankings thickness where your filler meets the last bulkhead,you could add a filler block on the otherside.You don't have to fill this 'bay' completely,just 20mm or so for added insurance.

     You are correct in your understanding of how Corel perceived the planking is intended to be carried out.The best illustration of this,is just look at Panart's 'catalogue' pics of the San Felipe.Google images should show a few.The manufacturers intention is that the builder should notch the planking for the rudder hardware.

      You are right in that the section you remove for the new stern post should stop at the horizontal rabbet on the keel.You can cut this out,a rotary tool with a sanding drum is the easiest way and then square the ends with a sharp knife and file.Alternatively as you may cover the keel with veneer,you could cut this piece out right to the bottom,fit a stern post the full height and then notch at the bottom of the hull planking to allow the veneer to run across the posts base.This would create the 'illusion' of the correct joint.

      Nothing about this area is straightforward,which is why myself and a few other builders on here choose to remove the keel,sternpost and prow completely and replace with solid wood.It may look daunting at first,but it is actually a lot easier than trying to make the kit's false keel more authentic.You can get away with an awful lot if the hull is painted or coppered,but if you prefer a natural wood finish,there is a lot of preparation involved to get a good result.

       You are off to a good start anyway by asking these questions and not being desperate to start laying planks

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[JPett]

 

Ok,run the first planking completely over your filler pieces and then feather and reduce the thickness of it after it is completed.You want to be aiming for full thickness when the planking meets the filler,tapering to nothing where it meets the sternpost.

 

 

 Thanks again Nigel 

 

Would there be any difference if i were to reduce the thickness of the first layer of planking to nothing slightly further back. This would mean that I would have maximum thickness of only the second planking to reduce. I would hate to sand through it to the first planking. It will need to be very thin and lifting it up with the first planking only sounds like trouble 

 

After patiently spending months to get this far i now finding myself fighting the urge to start planking 

Edited October 10, 2014 by JPett

[NMBROOK]

I think you may have misunderstood.The first planking only wants to be thinned right down where it touches the sternpost.I am referring to the area directly below the counter,not further down where the ply false keel is.If you like,I can post a sketch tomorrow,I am off to bed shortly as I am at work tomorrow morning.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[zehutiman]

May I tag on to this question?

 

I'm building a Constructo HMS Victory and have come against a stone wall regarding planking at the stern.  My problem is that in spite of reviewing several publications on planking, I can't duplicate the degree of bend required.  In some cases, the bend approaches 1/4" radius.  The planks are Sapelly, 2mm  x 5mm.  I've included 2 pics, including one from the instruction booklet.

 

Btw, apparently this model was originally designed to be planked with just the 2x5 planks, but now comes with the addition of 0.5mm planking veneer for the final planking.

 

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.