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Question: Planking Corel's HMS VIC

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Ahoy Mates :D


I have been struggling with the stern fillers on my Corel HMS Victory for too long and would like to know if what I am thinking is correct 




The keel is 5mm ply with a thin last layer of walnut. I would assume that Corel did this because some of it is to be exposed. 


There are no additional pieces to make up the stern post and the supplied keel matches the outline including it


The rudder is also made up of  5mm wood and matches the keel thickness prior to any planking 


The plans clearly all show a keel post 




Normally I would think that this would mean that you would cut a rabbet but this is a double planked kit.


This leaves me which one other possibility and the reason for my post


Has anyone ever built a kit where the planking terminated in the stern the same as it does in the bow. It seems to make sense on this kit. If I were to shape the stern fillers so the planks wrapped around them and all ran into the keel as they do in the bow I would be left with a finished piece of wood (the keel) coming up to the rudder at the correct thickness. Then I could scribe in the keel post and caulking to match my planking.


Sadliy it might be a little late for me and I have other plans explained in my log but the purpose of this post is to know if this method would be something a kit manufacturer would consider "normal" and possibly aide future builders of this kit. The Corel instructions say to use normal planking methods. Is this normal.  


I don't think it would look bad. The gar-board plank would be the only one that might give you a small problem 

Edited by JPett
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Ahoy NMBrook 


Thanks for chiming in. This dilemma has caused quite a work stoppage in my shipyard. 


So are you saying that my thinking to terminate the planking at the filler is incorrect. This would not bother me BTW. It is only the correct or best procedure I am looking for. 


If I am understanding you correctly what Corel would like to see is the first planking coming into the hull short of the stern post and feathered to the keel. The second coming over this and then being tapered to around 1mm and terminating at a point to create the keel post leaving a raised seam stepping down to the keel post. I would think this method might cause additional grief and be further highlighted in an undesirable way when any Rudder hardware is installed; but do see it as a workable solution.



I like your suggestion to just remove the part that represents the stern post on the keel and replace it. Please feel free to correct me  but it would need to be cut into the keel as the keel post would normally be sitting on top of the lower wood that runs the length of the hull. Perhaps I can taper the keel here a bit first to allow for some of the second planking to recess. Perhaps I could also use a slightly thicker piece of wood and taper it to meet the rudder. This would still allow me to cover the rest of the exposed keel with a thin laminate and take care of a few other shortcoming of the kit.


Thank you :) 



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Ok,run the first planking completely over your filler pieces and then feather and reduce the thickness of it after it is completed.You want to be aiming for full thickness when the planking meets the filler,tapering to nothing where it meets the sternpost.



 Thanks again Nigel 


Would there be any difference if i were to reduce the thickness of the first layer of planking to nothing slightly further back. This would mean that I would have maximum thickness of only the second planking to reduce. I would hate to sand through it to the first planking. It will need to be very thin and lifting it up with the first planking only sounds like trouble 


After patiently spending months to get this far i now finding myself fighting the urge to start planking 

Edited by JPett
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  • 4 weeks later...

May I tag on to this question?


I'm building a Constructo HMS Victory and have come against a stone wall regarding planking at the stern.  My problem is that in spite of reviewing several publications on planking, I can't duplicate the degree of bend required.  In some cases, the bend approaches 1/4" radius.  The planks are Sapelly, 2mm  x 5mm.  I've included 2 pics, including one from the instruction booklet.


Btw, apparently this model was originally designed to be planked with just the 2x5 planks, but now comes with the addition of 0.5mm planking veneer for the final planking.


Any suggestions would be most appreciated.






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