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About Matrim

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  • Birthday 05/14/1971

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    Leicestershire, England

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  1. I will have a look to I vaguely recollect that 'Arming and fitting' had a drawing of this as well..
  2. Angle of ship masts

    Masts were usually raked because the weight of the sails is unbalancing and if the mast rakes aft then that helps counteract the added weight. There are apparently some advantages dropping a sail in wind too over a raked mast - but the maths behind that confuses me so I'll take the experts word for it. Also if you have a vertical mast with the sails out then that provides a forward force on the mast which can decrease the effectiveness of the sails. Raking counteracts this force. Finally a heavily raked mast can help with loading and unloading though this may be more relevant for modern schooner type ships than square riggers. Perhaps some of the experts can chime in. Different masts have different rakes due to the different sail plans each mast would take and thus the forces the mast and sails would apply. Not that you asked but you might have wondered 'why?'
  3. I have ordered some anyway. I only need 4 so the cost is minor and then I can visually check. I may end up using Chuck's in their entirety or just the carriages... Worse comes to the worse and I can always scratch build them. I was surprised how bad the kit gun carriages actually were (the cannon themselves were fine)
  4. thanks druxey. i had a look myself at 4 pdr sizes and Lavery says they were between 5 foot 6 and 6 foot which is at scale 23.8125 mm to 28.75 the smallest syren is 29.76 so is close but I wonder if I could just get the relevant carriage and use the kit cannon.
  5. Does anyone know the length ranges of an English 4 pdr cannon and a 6 pdr cannon of around 1780? My Bounty has four four pounders but the kit cannons are 'ok' but I would prefer to get better and though I could scratch them I am just buying better for this model. I like the look of Chuck's but the smaller non-swivel ones there are 6pdrs. Since the bore is not drastically larger from a 4pdr to 6pdr I wondered if the lengths overlapped (or were the same) so I could then get the nicer looking cannon. In town so no access to the relevant books. Thanks for any opinions.
  6. Syren rigging hooks

    Contacting Chuck directly would seem more appropriate and useful? and I am sure it would get sorted out..
  7. Holly also differs in shade. I am using a darker piece for my current model. Originally holly was probably used as a 'design for effect' sort of thing. Using the actual wood miight have the correct colour biut at scale it might appaear far too dark ciompated to what the same wood would have looked like in situ.
  8. Newby with grand plans

    That article does contain good advice. The key question for a new modeller (to me at least) is whether you have relevant skills in similar hobbies/work. If you have i.e you were a carpenter at work or spend all your time making furniture then a more advanced model will probably be well within your grasp. If not and you were perhaps an accountant who played tennis as a hobby then try something smaller and simpler. I started with no practical carpentry/metal work skills and started with Caldercrafts 'Snake' which I completed and enjoyed in a year (time limited so that's probably a lot more than actually needed). I am currently on their Bounty which is a nice simple kit though I would also recommend Chucks Longboat as something that is simple and nice to look at when completed without being too difficult. Basically if you fancy Mars or a ship of the line or big frigate but have no relevant skill set then do a smaller kit and treat it as an quick introduction (plus you can make all your mistakes on 'that'). Then you can move up to your dream model... Since you say you built your shed and bench you may already have that skill set so...
  9. K found it. The 'extra' block is in the plan showing the spars etc on their own. From the books it looks like that is the throat halliard Lees If you have the swan series book 4 describes it for that sloop in section 18.51 and makes the valid comment that the block was used to hoist the gaff up to position. The Bounty book does show the eyebolt in some shots but it it a very busy section of the ship for running rigging so it might be a missed for clarity option. The written instructions dont mention it and I notice they do reference a belaying plan - this I dont seem to have so I wonder if it would appear on there.. I have emailed Caldercraft to see what comments they have to make on the block/belaying plan
  10. K, I will check it over when I get home later. I only have one more margin plank to put down and the deck (bar sanding) is finished on mine. Saying that probably still a long, long way from masts and rigging..
  11. Ooo interesting especially as I haven't got close to rigging on my own Caldercraft Bounty yet. Having taken a quick flick through the Anatomy book, Lees and Peterson all I could come up with was that from 1793 booms were fitted to Mizzen masts and from 1745 a gaff was rigged to small ships. The Anatomy ship also shows a gaff in some of its mast component drawings so since that agrees with Lee's I would go with a gaff and no boom. The isometric spars drawing in the Anatomys also shows just a gaff and no boom. Looking throught the Caldercraft plans I think it was named gaff-boom just because it is carrying out the same action as a seperate gaff-boom would. So just pretend it is just called gaff. I noticed no discrepancy accross the plans with regard to it though. All I saw showed just a gaff in the 'high' position on the mizzen mast which is as the Anatomy book also indicates.. Could you say what it is exactly on the plans that is confusing as I doubt it isn't the intellectual issue of what it was actually called and presumably is one of the supporting bits of rigging which might differ between plans...
  12. I should make my own (and for my scratch I probably will at least try) but for my kit model I fully expect to replace all the kit blocks with Chuck's equivelants. My decision this kit is whether to buy better 'rope' or bite the bullet and learn to make my own or not..
  13. best kits

    I like Caldercraft myself as the instructions are decent...
  14. IMG_1144.JPG


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