Matrim

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About Matrim

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  • Birthday 05/14/1971

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    Leicestershire, England

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  1. I will adjust accordingly! Thanks for the info.. A lot of those lines were approximations dependant on the relevant books...
  2. Thanks, a part of me does keep thinking how much stronger the end structure would be (and easier to make) if I just did it in one piece. I keep hitting that part of me on the head with a plank of wood to keep it in check..
  3. Madce an attempt at a knee of the head plan. May not go this approach (which requires more research) as I am still umming and aaing about different structures and possibly simplifying to make the construction easier. From what I have read so far there are several different ways of building this up so it is a matter of designer preference as to how...
  4. On the scarph the length was indicated by the plans and I always take the plans over other considerations (inlcuding Steel). I also (deliberately) flatten the scarph because it makes it easier to cut and join pieces together so is a simplification of actual practice to simplify building. Useful to know what it should be so thank you both. I have also looked around the various books and in the Swan and Euryalus the plans have the apron in two piece , labelled the apron. In the Naid the relevent section is in three pieces and the joints match shape and direction with the ones in mine with the lowest joint marked lower apron and the upper two upper apron. All the books have deadwood above the apron and all the books have the apron starting next to (but not exactly on) the upper line of the rising wood. So as far as I can tell (and lets face it we have several authors here so anything I say should be taken with a ton of salt if it in any way disagrees with posted pronouncements) this is the apron. I will try and move into more primary sources though (and still have not checked the other plans). Thanks all for your comments..
  5. K here are some more 'global' plans. I have adjusted the colour of what is assumed to be the apron (above) to light green so it can be picked out amongst the surroundings easier. Second shot includes the cant frames but focuses more on the keel area than the above I am going to have to search through some of the paper plans though as I also decided to validate against the originals and on the sheer (at least) the upper joint does not occur. Therefore it is possible that the lower apron is very short and the upper quite long.. I shall have to go and drag out all the plans though as that joint will have occured on one of them otherwise it would not have been added to the master..
  6. Edited the title so it matches forum rules.
  7. That would make logical sense except for the fact that the majority of the cant frames sit on that piece... When I get home tonight I will post a composite of all the relevant pieces of that section (apron, stem, keelson) which should help validate/deny...
  8. Not decided yet so am continuing (at least until the spine of the ship is potentially done so the knee of the head, stern posts/rudder/rear deadwood) as an when really. Next shot is the side view of the apron Nothing very exciting though the split in three appears unusual (either that or other plans deliberately leave it at two to simplify the piece..) I considered doing a fron view but since that will involve various curves to fit I will eventually cut to sized wood and resize above and below the bearding line accordingly. Well that is the current plan and may change when tool comes to wood.. Cheers for reading as always. I may do the knee of the head side view next following the same setup mainly as that is relatively simple..
  9. Initial set of hull planking is now done. Not 'brilliant' but much better than my usual attempts. Improvements are that I am getting better pre-shaping and (for once) actually managed to get continuous lines of planks without sticking a random central filler because I misjudged the shape (hoorah for pre-planning the strips). Here's a bottom view. And since the camera is a vicious critic here is a softer version that might match what it looks like for someone not staring at a 1mm gap like an abyss Next steps are to plank the rear facia. The plans don't call for it but I am doing so (with very thin planks of ebony) anyway.
  10. Just produced the Stem Plans. Not really certain of the best way to get the tapering on the plan so we'll have to see if this approach works or if it needs further adjustments.. I have enough to get started (and keep me busy a few months) so I might stop work on plans until my Bounty is out of the way and start when I start work on the build. Then again....hmm have to consider the pros and cons.
  11. I have a commerical air quaility monitor and, to be frank, I do not have a clue how it works (beyond it shines a laser over an air flow and counts obstructions sizes)..
  12. Had an email concerning one of these recently so I thought I would check it out. http://www.dyson.co.uk/fans-and-heaters/purifiers/dyson-pure-hot-cool-link/technology.aspx Couple of notes, Dyson is a very well known UK brand - if nothing else the owner is an inventor who actually makes stuff thqat works that Britain also exports so he is rather an asset. His stuff tends to be very well made but expensive. The machine fulfills three tasks. It purifiys the air (down to 0.1 micron and the dangerous stuff is between 0.1 and 0.5 microns), warms the air to a temperature you set (at which point it functions like a thermostat and switches off until needed again) or cools the air in summer. It also contains some measure of air cleanliness measures as it flags whether it regards the air as 'clean' or not. Finally it has wi-fi and can be controlled via an android/apple app so you can set the temperature and turn it on when you are not even in the room. Anyway my model arrived today so I switched on my air monitor to check it actually worked, set it up and left it on for an hour. When I returned to the shed I was pleased that A - the shed was toasty and B - the air was of good quality. Large particles were down to 34 (per square foot) which is good (if I run my other air filters they can generally get it down to 20 ish or less but as the large particles are not the dangerous ones I am not worried). Small particles were down to 300. The 'clean' air range is having 500 particles or less (and my house as a control location tends to have 300 as well). From there I lowered the temperature as it was a little too warm and then started table sawing some wood. My table saw is attached to a good dust hoover but you will still get 'escape' and throughout an evenings work the small dust levels never got above 400 and once cutting stopped dropped back down to 300 within 5 minutes or so. Therefore I am quite pleased with the its operation. I have several air filters/ suction systems as I am nervous about wood dust and this seemed to do an excellent job. If it was not based in my shed I would consider leaving it on all night to keep the temperature level and once I get a meter in might do that in winter to see how much electricity it actually piles through - the air heating will help control rust etc. K so that is the good now the bad. It is not cheap - the mid-large models are four hundred and ninety nine pounds and worse the filters cost fifty pounds each plus are not re-useable. That last point is important as if you get through a lot of those and it can be very expensive. The user guide states that running it for 12 hours a day over a year should get through a single filter but in a working environment with wood dust I am expecting that to be shorter. If it is 6 months then I will be quite happy, anything less than that and I will be less so. Finally I plan on using this as a background filter. Keeping different suction on power tools and use other air purifiers along with a dust mask when doing a lot of sawdust generating work. Once they have got the environment under control then this can be used as a means of controlling dust that has perhaps settled and is thrown up without being seen plus if you do not possess an air quality monitor then this does cover that job a little less transparently. You can of course put it in other rooms in the house if needed for cooling/ heating/purifying as well..
  13. The list of banned manufacturers is on the first page of this thread.
  14. You do realise the HMS Fly is not a US Military Vehicle? Regardless as to different museums, (for all I know when you say 'Greenwich' you don't mean the NMM but 'Greenwich, Alaska') we follow copyright laws here and the site does have rules. So do not share links to plan sets and do not post them whole unless you have permission ( fair use provisions do of course apply). Thank you.
  15. If you have permission from the plans owners then you can publish full plans. The NMM would not grant this without you paying a lot of money. Reasoning from one country is also not always applicable to a different country.