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Matrim

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About Matrim

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  • Birthday 05/14/1971

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    Leicestershire, England

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  1. Matrim

    Tops angle

    Perfect, thank you...
  2. Matrim

    Tops angle

    I am just about to put the tops on my masts and was wondering about angles. The plans seem to show the tops (for fore and main) at right angles to the mast but the masts rake would mean that would end in the tops being at a slightly unusual angle. (The Mizzen on the plans has a rake of its own possibly due to the much larger mizzen rake) So my question is whether this is expected or if I should position to the tops to be more perpendicular to the deck..
  3. Only a tiny update as I steadily prep the masts. Mass gluing with little clamps and then using a mill to drill the holes for the rigging in the tops. To get the hole location I traced the outer angle of the top on a piece of paper then marked the holes. I then cut the outer shape with scissors laid the template on the top and pushed through with a sharp point.
  4. this is an impressive kit for card....I am surprised how realistic it is looking. (not a reference to your modelling skills!!!)
  5. Merged the two identical topics in different forums and then shifted to the correct forum..
  6. Could not see any markings... Quick visual update only as the bowsprit is now on. I think I made a minor mistake in making the footropes out of string. At that diameter wire is better as it needs tension to keep shape. Otherwise I am pleased with it. The spirtsail is at a strange angle because I am going to try and use the rigging to set its position and not pinning it. We will see if it works when the rigging goes in.
  7. Don't splurge out until you have decided whether you even enjoy the hobby (unless you have seriously deep pockets). My first kits (a Caldercraft Snake then a Caldercraft Diana - with the second not being a small kit) were built in a tiny outhouse on a 4 ft wide dressing table that just fit in the space. For those I mainly squirrelled away little dremel tools and various tweezers/knifes/files and the odd chisel. I then built the triton cross section (you can sign up here! it is free!!) and for this added a Byrnes table saw/disc sander and a scroll saw. This was pushing space in a bad way now but after an extension and a new 'executive log cabin' (shed) in the garden I increased ship building space and now have made my own work bench (8ft long and very sturdy) and have space for all my current machine tools plus have added a Byrnes thicknesser, industrial thicknesser , loads of air filters and a specialist vac for fine dust, drill press, sherline longbed lathe and sherline milling machine. Plus a lot more tweezers, spanners, etc etc. Ran out of space (again) now (which is a shame as a standing Band saw would be a lovely addition) but have enough to scratch build as long as spend a little more for pre-thinned stock. My main problem is my wife attempting to deposit garden chairs/cushions into my room so they are easy to access. Here is my cabin just after being built (the quarter at the far end is a standard garden shed)
  8. I find a blade that spins so fast you can hardly see it tends to concentrate the mind wonderfully. Using the right tool for the job (correctly) makes any tools vastly more useful. On a non hospital related angle you can use a different sized screw driver on a screw and get it screwed in but if you use the exact sized screwdriver it will go in easier with less damage to the screw head. I am aiming to use the saw more like the second example. Admittedly using a mis-sized screw driver wont cause serious injury (slipping and impaling it inside an eye ball as perhaps the only contender) so the analogy is not that good....
  9. Thanks for the responses all, plus the document is a little gold mine of info...
  10. I use a mask and a dust extractor (and have several filters running) being a bit paranoid about wood dust. I also use push sticks and am very aware of the dangers of the saw. I would like a band saw but don't have the space. On the other hand I tend to spend more on pre-planed thinner stock to avoid having anything too large to handle. That does mean that in some circumstances the table saw has to cope with more than it should, as an example I was cutting the lid off a box at the weekend and it did not like that. The 12mm sides were no problem at all but naturally when it reached the sides it had to cope with a lot more and naturally did not cope. For that specific problem I plan on making a 90 degree jig so that the saw does not have to cope with too much wood than it wants. That's not ship modelling related naturally..
  11. Hi all, I have decided I am not using my table saw particularly well and was wondering whether anyone could give practical reasons for changes/improvements. Some of the issues are due to bad practice on my part that i have recognised but with a few I am not sure of the best way to adjust too best practice. I - The first is that I have tended to use both fence and mitre (incorrectly assuming this meant more accuracy). On re-reading the instruction guide recently I noticed it said use one or the other but never both. Here I am merely curious as to the logic and what damaging effects this could cause thougb probably explains the blade locks I get frequently enough. II - The second is that I have some difficulties with the blades. I seem to settle (consistently) on a slitter blade (so thin) as when I attach a more normal wood curring blade it does not cut nearly so nicely. It might be that I am not secuting the blade correctly which might explain this.. Anyway using the slitter blade I tend to get a lot of blade 'stick' which I guess is due to overheating/inability of the blade to extract the wood shavings it is cutting and the overheating causing the blade to flex. Are there any recommended blade types or tips to making a better job of attaching them in the first place. In another thread I noticed some comments on the line of 'attach a steel ruler to the fence just prior to the central point of the blade so that the wood can deviate more freely' - but this seems an extreme solutuion and I would prefer to utilize the saw correctly to avoid this if I can. I have also seen comments that perhaps the fence is not 'set' but the other 'bad' use points probably explain this better so I fully expect this to be how I use it as opposed to the machine itself. III - When looking at the instructions I also (re) noticed the - tighten the forward locking bolts of the fence 'first' - I cannot guarentee I have always done this but will in future and this might also explain some of the blade sticking which is dangerous beyond anything else. I am curious as to why this makes a difference. IV - Changing blades - I tend to find this difficult and the wrench on the locking bolt sometimes gets 'stuck'. I wonder now if I am securing the bolt on the blade with too much force (I am purchasing some more imperial wrenches to ensure the fit is correct as my 'pick a wrench and see if it fits' approach might cause some slight gaps especially if its a metric wrench close in size to the imperial wrench sizes required 3/8 and 11/16 respectively ) Anyway for all those table saw experts I would be delighted with any explanations/improvements advice. This saw is a wonderful piece of kit but also the one I am most wary of for 'danger' and taking practical steps to do things correctly /better will both reduce (but never eliminate) that danger and ensure the quality of work produced improves. Joss.
  12. Thanks Pat, I will check if it has any markings when I get home from work. It was purchased quite a few years ago now..
  13. So I redid the bowspit. I had 'stained' the mast (as I have done with previous kits) and was not entirely delighted with the results. When stained it was a little too dark (and grubby) whereas when unstained the standard dowels where too white. After asking for some advice here I ordered some Castello boxwood (lemonwood) and resolved to size it myself. This will be a long winded post as I intend to go into exhaustive detail into something that doesn't need it. First up I cut my 1*1 sticks down to something that could be more easily sized. Here is the blank next to one of my earlier test bowsprits Next I secured it on my lathe Using a 4 adjustable jaw chuck, which isn't ideal but unavoidable with a rectangular shape. The next thing to have ready is the correct tool for the job. When I first sized the kit dowels I had tried to use my favourite sizing tool but it was actually a little too unweildy for the job. This time I searched for a more useful tool. At the bottom is the incorrect and the top the correct. So first up is to roughly make it a cylinder larger than the thickest size using the default sizing tool (shown at the bottom of the photo) I then thinned the end to 6mm before marking the correct locations using a pencil whilst the lathe spun slowly Next up I sized the section from the end to the thickest section in the middle Before using a fine sandpaper to improve the finish Here is the 'finished' end Next up I flipped the bowsprit around (the lathe is not long enough to do the entire thing in one 'sweep' Though this did allow me to use the more accurate simultaneous contracting 3 jawed holder Once sized down with the rough paring tool I switched to a thinner tool that allows exact lines to be created And showing the result as the cap section is reduced So here is almost the completed bowsprit For the little extra bits I found using a particular tweezer style useful I could then hold my finger under the wood and run a file over the end to 'angle' those bits that needed angling Some did not and just needed to be rectangular for these I followed the wise rule of start large and then reduce to fit. I tended to cut with a scalpel then tidy with a file. Next up I tried the wolding. For this kit I am using black thread for the standing rigging though I might well switch to dark brown for my next model. Anyway I am also trying to avoid my heavy use of superglue and very simple half hitches. So I will be trying to use knots in preference to glue. This may or may not work and I think the jury is out currently though I will get a better impression when some of the blocks are added I started by masking taping one end of my thread to a spare area then winding the thread around I then masking taped a section close to the off cut bit (but not near the actual end as I would need to use that) I then took the spare end and threaded it under the existing loops and around the top loose piece before moving back again And rope bit done Shuffling around made this tidier but the extra thickness of two ropes in one section did generate a bulge. I have placed this under the jib boom so it wont be that obvious but if I repeat this process on the masts then I may cut a small groove to contain the under thread to avoid this (and help keep things tight). I then gathered the relevant parts (including painted card) for the bands These were cut into strips and wrapped around. The close up makes things look worse than they actually look (and next time I will paint the sides of the strips before attaching. For this I have to paint the sides carefully post install which is harder and is the next job from here) Anyway even I am tired now. Next up I have to tidy the wolding before starting on blocks for the jib boom and bowsprit. IMG_3829.CR2
  14. Matrim

    Mast Wood choice

    That will do fine! Thanks for the tip. The color looks very nice as well..( I might also have some lemonwood hanging around as well which will save time..)
  15. Greetings all, Currently I am moving onto the masts of my Bounty and was wondering about color. The kit comes with standard (very white) dowels which i dont like so I dyed my bowsprit a walnutty/brown dye ...and dont like that either. This set me to thinking about maybe getting my own wood supply of a better color (so no dye involved) and turning the masts myself. I am using a lathe to 'shape' them so it is a small step to get them to size in the first place. I spent some time looking through pictures and the color choices do seem wide though a sort of yellowy color seems common in many of the paintings, older models seem to be all over the place color wise) So basically does anyone have any opinions as to a good wood type to mimic the actual mast type (wasn't it pine?) for a English ship circa 1770. Thanks for any opinions!

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