
Don Quixote
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Please wait moment. I'm going to try something. I have some light weight card stock. If I do this in 3 strakes, 6 planks each. Should be close at the stern, else I can add a stealer. Let's assume for now that 18 planks will work at the stern as well as amid ship. I'll measure down the middle bulkhead 6 planks, mark it, same at the stern. Then on the stem, I'll reduce it to 2 mm per plank. Mark it at 6 mm. Run the strake down below the marks, measure down 6 more planks MINUS the width of the strake, mark it and strake it. I think I recall reading something about that. Actually, do I have to subtract the width of the strake? Measure 6 planks down, mark it and then measure 6 more planks, mark it... Put the strakes just below the line.
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Does this look right? At the widest, I need 18 planks. At the stem I need 9! At the stern I need 19. Note however, that the planks are supposed to be 4 mm but are on average 4.14 mm. If I'm reading that right, I need to reduce every plank at the stem by half, and the sterm may almost work perfectly. It's a double plank, but I'm hoping to get away with 1.
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We won't be doing any bashing on this ship of that nature. I'm going to modify what I don't understand. Or at least Jerry rig things. Once my Victoria gets here I'll be going back and forth.
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- rattlesnake
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As near as I can figure, the top strip is where it should be. It's supposed to sit directly on top of the port and in fact the little bit I can glean from the instructions is that the ports are to be used as "guides". No matter how I slice it, 12mm ports, 2 - 5 mm planks. Guess I'll be at Ace hardware to buy some more wood filler too. Here-on-in known as bondo.
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Beautiful job! You're kit is NOTHING like mine. I don't have any of those transfers, my keel was all one pcs.
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- rattlesnake
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Use the metal port as a guide. Place the bottom strip so that the bottom of the strip is even with the bottom of the deck. Run the next strip above the port. 2 more pcs in between and you're golden. Except the ports are 12 MM sq, and the planks are 5 mm each. I soaked the wood for 30 minutes before shaping, and applied a little heat. No matter what that cheap wood frays. Supposed to be Tanganyka wood. The wood doesn't look that bad from 10" away, but the gap is of course ugly. I have some 1.5X 2mm strips from the Niagara left over that I'll used.
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Good grief. I've been drooling over those Victory brand ships. Cheapest I could find for a single mast was $240. Prices then went to $320 through $1200. The one I wanted, the bomber was $490. Found it for $245 at Cornwall Model Boats LTD. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/vm_granado.html You know I just ordered that!
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Currently way over my head with Model Shipworlds Niagara. It's hard seperating which rigging is for standing only and which is for sails/furled...etc. So I've shelved it and want another ship. I asked this question when I first started here and was told it was a stupid question. 3 years later I'll ask again. Who makes the best kits? GOOD detailed instructions. I hear Victory makes great kits, but they only have a few to choose from and they're mostly for advanced builders. What about Constructo? I want a mid size ship, around 1:60th, needs to have at least a few cannons but must have GREAT documentation and plans.
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