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JSGerson

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About JSGerson

  • Birthday 11/04/1946

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aiken, South Carolina

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  1. Any chance you have photos of your "wringer" set up? I'm still debating in my mind how I'll will do the nail impressions when I get to the copper stage.
  2. Looks like another case where the references available to us don't match Bluejacket's 1812 plans. However, I've met the owner of Bluejacket at the NRG's conventions. He takes pride in his company's products. If you were to drop him an email, I'm sure he would explain where his references come from. Jon
  3. I finally finished the gun port planking plus three additional planks below the ports. The planking will work as it will be painted covering up all the “uglies.” If this were to be a natural wood finish, I would not be too happy. My only excuse (and not a good one) is that this is only the second hull I’ve ever planked.
  4. It’s been about a month and a half since my last post. Wow have things changed in the world around us. Everyone is warned about leaving the house. Luckily, we have an indoor hobby. I’ve been busy but not always with the model and as usual, I’m slow as molasses with the model building. Continuing on with the hull planking, I added the gun deck, gun port, sill planking on each side of the hull. As final check before I started to plank in between the gun ports, I noticed that I wasn’t careful enough with how I place those planks. Looking from the bow, one could see they didn’t line up. I had to carefully cut out a couple of inches worth of the sill plank on the port side and do it again.
  5. At the scale you are working in (1:96), the subtle differences won't be noticed. Out of curiosity I checked the US Navy blueprints (available on CD from the USS Constitution Museum) and drawing No. 21162 shows a completely different looking Mizzen top (based on 1927 restoration) than what you posted from Bluejacket. I know their model is suppose to depict the Conny as she was in 1812, but I have no idea where they got their references. In the few references that I have, the only tops they show are for the main mast and they also don't match Bluejacket ether. So unless you are showing your model to a fanatical historical expert of the USS Constitution, I think your superb workmanship will pass muster. Jon
  6. Dan - She's been a favorite of mine too. I grew up in Newton MA, a suburb of Boston, and visited her on numerous occasions. I would like to to see build log of your efforts as I look at just about any blog I can find looking for that detail, technique, and problem solving that would help me me in my efforts.
  7. Very nice. I hope mine looks as good as your when I finally get to this point. I'm using Robert Hunt's practicum as a guide (as well as following numerous other builders) and he substituted boxwood for the fife rails because the basswood laser cut pieces were so delicate, you were also guaranteed to break them. When I purchased my kit, Hobby Mill was still in operation and they offered a wood supplement kit based on Mr. Hunt's laser cut parts substitutions in his practicum. So, I bought it and as a result I've always planned on replacing the parts you discovered the hard way. Look forward to your next posting. Jon
  8. I've got no complaints about your work. It looks clean and sharp. I would be happy if I could accomplish the same. Well done. Jon
  9. The first line of planking for the gun deck ports was started at the top of the ports with a line of planking resting on the jigs. Then three additional lines of planking were fitted above that so the were snug against the spar deck gun port planking. Next is planking in between the ports and just below them.
  10. The build was put aside for a bit while I and my sister made a final trip to Florida to deal with the sale of my Mom’s condo and the disposition of her possessions. It was not something that I looked forward to, but it was done. We accomplished what was needed. After returning home and digesting the past events, I was ready to open the shipyard again. The next band of planking was the area of the gun deck ports. These are straight forward enough except that a 1/32” space must be provided around the gun port openings for the gun port lids. A simple jig was fashioned from the spacer block that was used to form the openings in the first place. A short piece was cut off and a second piece with the exact dimensions of the lid was made. The two were glued together so that when the jig was inserted into the gun port, it would create a void in the planking big enough for the lid to fit. It would also create a smooth border. Two were made.
  11. You could offer to pay for the postage if they would send the parts. They are very reasonable. BYW, you are moving at a very reasonable clip, much faster than me, and I'm retired and a bachelor. There is always other parts to work on while you wait for the mail delivery.
  12. It's been a while since I checked up on you. You do work under some adverse conditions. You might have saved some extra work/grief if you had contacted Model Expo. They have a no questions asked parts replacement policy. I'm sure they would replace any of the pre-cut wood you lost for what ever reason. What I don't know is their over seas postage policy. Jon
  13. Thanks Kmart and Bob. That was just what I needed to know Jon
  14. When I was contemplating how I would simulate the bolt heads, I did consider the "glue" method. But because I didn't have access to syringes (don't know if you can just walk into a drug store and just buy them or if you need a prescription) and I figured you would need a bunch of them as the glue eventually clogs them up, or a method to consistently create uniform thousands of drops, I chose not to do it that way. Also, I could adjust the position after placing them on the wood with Wipe-on Poly (before it dried). Your build looks great and you are moving a whole lot faster than me. Jon
  15. You are right that a lot of modelers have gotten the representation of the fasteners of the copper plates wrong. They look like boiler plate rivets sticking out off the plates. As you can see from the image below, the plates are attached with copper nails which results in fine dimples on the plates. I am going to attempt to simulate the effect on my build using a stamp with fine needle points embedded in it. I managed to simulate the bolt heads on the bulwarks somewhat successfully (using 0.6 mm rivets I made using a fine punch) although I still feel the scale is off.

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