Jump to content

JSGerson

Members
  • Content Count

    1,629
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About JSGerson

  • Birthday 11/04/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aiken, South Carolina

Recent Profile Visitors

1,734 profile views
  1. I did not have any plans for the scuttlebutt table or the barrel stand, so their dimensions were guesstimated and came up with the following plan. It was just a matter of making the boxwood pieces and assembling them. The tabletop was stained Minwax Mahogany 225. I initially tried to stain the table structure with Minwax Ebony 2718, but the stain was too transparent, so it was painted with gloss enamel black. Brass tape was used for the brass barrel bands. This was the same kind of tape I used for the copper cladding on the stove pan. You may have noticed that the images show there
  2. I have a simple tabletop Micro-Mark wood lathe that I have hardly used and have not much skill with. With this I made my very first wooden barrel using a short length of ½” dia. dowel. The barrel was cut, shaped, and then sliced off the dowel with the Byrnes saw. Surprisingly, I did it right on the first try! That is not my usual experience. The square hole was cut and then the barrel was stained with Minwax Early American 230.
  3. Scuttlebutt and Scuttlebutt Table I found the US Navy plans for the scuttlebutt, but surprisingly, there were two types. The first one is the one you see on the ship today. It’s the barrel on its side with a square opening. The other, is an upright cask, oval in cross section, almost identical to today’s harness cask. I’ll using that plan as a guide when I make harness cask. The US Navy plan below has my working dimensions (in red) for the fabrication of the scale barrel. (BTW usedtosail, the name's Gerson,... Jonathan Gerson, but I'll take the compliment anyways 8-) )
  4. The shaped wood stock was then sliced like a loaf of bread into twenty 1/16” slices and stained with Minwax Golden Pecan. Due to the B&W photos, I didn’t know the color of the guides. I assumed they were of natural wood finish as paint would have just worn off from the sliding chain. The last two images below show the guides on the deck as a dry fit. These will be glued into place before I move on.
  5. The set up worked fairly decently using what cutters and grinding bits that I had, the end result was close enough to what I wanted, but not anywhere near to the exactitude of my original plan. But then it didn’t need to be.
  6. Then using my Dremel drill press accessory, a jig was constructed so I could slide a piece of wood under a cutting bit of the drill. A piece of 1/8” x ¼” x 2” boxwood was the material of choice to be shaped. To aid in the setups, I sketched a profile of the guide on the end of the wood stock.
  7. Using the arrangement drawing, I measured as best I could the width and length of the guides and guesstimate the height from which I form a plan.
  8. Gun Deck Anchor Chain Guides I was going to work on the scuttlebutt, grog tub, and harness cask, but in the process of doing my research to figure out what their dimensions were, I ran across an old B&W photo showing all three of those items, but it also showed something else that I could not identify earlier while working on the deck eyebolts and rings. Indicated on the 1931 US Navy arrangement plans (Note, they are not shown on the 1927 arrangement plans), was something that appeared to be under the anchor chain, but I didn’t know what they were (example in red circle). The B&W
  9. Gun Deck Eye Bolts and Rings Eye bolts and rings for the gun train tackle (pulls the gun back from gun port) and the messenger and anchor lines were added to the gun deck.
  10. They were relatively easy to make due to their simply construction. The hardest part were the baseboards and the handles due to their delicateness and tiny size. The handles consisted of a vertical arced shape piece of wood with a loop of rope passing through its center. Those pieces of wood worked out to be about 5/32” long, 1/32” wide at its widest point, and 3/64” thick. I could barely hold them, let alone shape them. I had two choices for materials to use as the handle rope, left-over twisted brass wire I used for the construction of the bilge pump handles or thread. The thread
  11. Because the sea chests have a natural wood finish, they were made from boxwood. Below is an image of my starting materials.
  12. Gun Deck Sea Chests This next gun deck item I will call “Sea Chests” for lack of a more accurate term, I couldn’t find any plans or diagrams, so size and shape are my best guess; there are two of them as far as I know. One is near the stove and the other is near the capstan. They appear to be built as part of the ship because at least one of them appears to have vertical structure going through it.
  13. I'm impressed by your workmanship and not to mention your shop. Very nice work so far. Your opening statement was "Building out of the box." Are you planning not to deviate from the kit or do you have any surprises in store for us?. BTW, welcome aboard to the Conny builders. Jon
  14. The pots which made from discs I carved out of basswood and 1/32” plywood. One rope pot has a cap on it and the remaining pots were left open to receive either rope or chain. 3/16” holes were drilled very carefully into the discs and the gun deck.
×
×
  • Create New...