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About JSGerson

  • Birthday 11/04/1946

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    Aiken, South Carolina

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  1. An update: As I mentioned earlier, I would do, I switched from planking down towards the keel and started planking from the keel up, hopefully to meet neatly in the middle.
  2. Hull Planking Continued The stanchions made from music wire for the ladders going down below the gun deck, were all knocked off over time due to the manipulation of the hull in the building process. They could not be fastened strongly enough due the very small contact surface area between the music wire and the ladders. Should they get knocked off again, which is probably likely, repairing them would be difficult especially once the hull planking gets below the gun deck level. Therefore, once I decided this detail had to be sacrificed, they were permanently removed. Now I was free to work
  3. Just found your log. Your build looks great to me. I too am following Mr. Hunt's practicum and is also only my second BOF so we have a lot in common. I look forward to your progress. I can't answer your questions about paints and primers, all I can do is point you towards xKen's build. He a superb model builder and did a great job with his paint job on his Conny. He also recommends that you fill in all the nooks and crannies with wood filler and sand smooth to prime the surface for the copper plating. The smoother the better. Bare wood is not a good surface.
  4. Avi - Welcome. There are a lot of great builders here at this site and a large number of them have or are building the Constitution. Although looking for fellow BlueJacket builders is the first thing I would do, I would also look at builders of other kit manufacturers as well. A lot of the techniques they used are transferable no mater what kit your building. xKen (Ken Forman) (Model Shipways), and robnBill (Bill Edgin) (Mamoli) comes to immediate mind. There are lots of others. Of course you can't go wrong with KHauptfuehrer. I'm building a Model shipways version with modifications and I'm w
  5. Here are the three items in dry fit position on the gun deck along with all the other components. At this point I am entertaining various scenarios as to which areas to work on next. I’m reluctant to install anything permanent on the gun deck yet because I haven’t fabricated the quarter galleries, or for that matter finished the hull itself. I had thought I might close in the gun deck to get to the spar deck and get in sync with the practicum which did not address the gun deck interior. But I fear the manipulation of the hull for planking, coppering, etc. might damage the delicate items on the
  6. The table was also fabricated from boxwood. Pieces were cut, shaped, and assembled. I gave the table top a light color stain and painted the support structure gloss black.
  7. The Grog Tub and Table I had no plans for either the grog tub or its table. This was strictly eyeball stuff based on pictures. Constructed like the harness cask, I used a piece of 3/8” x 3/8” x 3/8” boxwood and shaped it. The lid was a separate piece. I took my best shot carving the lid handle, but I think its too big. I just couldn’t make it any smaller
  8. The last bit of the cask was its base. I noticed that this cask sat in a pan for some reason. The base of the pan was carved from 1/64 spruce plywood. The rim was a strip of card stock CA’d to the plywood. To do this, the plywood was lying on a piece of wax paper while I liberality applied the CA as I worked my way around the plywood edge. The card stock soaked up the glue which gave it stiffness. The wax paper easily peeled off the construct. The pan was painted flat black. The pan in turn sat on two layers of dunnage which was a few pieces of scrap wood and stained.
  9. I did not have any plans for the lid, so I winged it. I scored a line into the lid to simulated where the lid would swing open. If you look really close, you may notice there are too sets of hinges on the harness cask, one set for each side as the lid opens from ether side. I chose not to have a double hinge due to scaling limits. I used a couple of pieces of eyebolt “legs” wire. Every time I snipped off piece of excess eyebolt, I kept the scrap for situations such as this one. The tiny pieces of wire made the hinge more realistic. Next, I added the brass bands and hinges.
  10. The plan was used as a template, by gluing a scaled version onto a piece of boxwood with rubber cement. The top side image was trimmed so I wouldn’t confuse top from bottom. The sides were angled in to match the template and then sanded and filed to the final cask shape. The lid was fabricated separately.
  11. Harness Cask As I mentioned in my earlier post, I based my harness cask on a plan of a version of the grog tub not shown on the actual ship (that I know of). The obvious difference is that the grog cask plan shows a circular opening in its top while the actual harness cask has a hinged top.
  12. I did not have any plans for the scuttlebutt table or the barrel stand, so their dimensions were guesstimated and came up with the following plan. It was just a matter of making the boxwood pieces and assembling them. The tabletop was stained Minwax Mahogany 225. I initially tried to stain the table structure with Minwax Ebony 2718, but the stain was too transparent, so it was painted with gloss enamel black. Brass tape was used for the brass barrel bands. This was the same kind of tape I used for the copper cladding on the stove pan. You may have noticed that the images show there
  13. I have a simple tabletop Micro-Mark wood lathe that I have hardly used and have not much skill with. With this I made my very first wooden barrel using a short length of ½” dia. dowel. The barrel was cut, shaped, and then sliced off the dowel with the Byrnes saw. Surprisingly, I did it right on the first try! That is not my usual experience. The square hole was cut and then the barrel was stained with Minwax Early American 230.
  14. Scuttlebutt and Scuttlebutt Table I found the US Navy plans for the scuttlebutt, but surprisingly, there were two types. The first one is the one you see on the ship today. It’s the barrel on its side with a square opening. The other, is an upright cask, oval in cross section, almost identical to today’s harness cask. I’ll using that plan as a guide when I make harness cask. The US Navy plan below has my working dimensions (in red) for the fabrication of the scale barrel. (BTW usedtosail, the name's Gerson,... Jonathan Gerson, but I'll take the compliment anyways 8-) )
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