Cap'n Rat Fink

Lower deck beam and deck planking, pump well and shot locker
 
Happy new year 2015!
 
Lower deck was partly planked over the aft magazine. I'm not sure my understanding of plan around the aft clutch, some part of clutch crossed the deck plank.
 
In this small ship, lower deck beam structure is so simple, ie., beams are not curved (no camber), no knees and a few carlings. Pump well and shot locker was installed in front of lower transverse bulkhead.
 
Cheers.

Treenailing, aft magazine & lower deck beam, oiling... some progress at the inside of hull
 
In this small scale, diameter of treenail would be about 0.5mm, however, it's not easy for me making treenail of that size. Yes, from the other's building logs, I learned how to make treenail with draw plate but I failed. I think I need more experience. So, I drilled 0.5mm empty holes without treenails on the planked board. I hope I can try again in the near future.
 
The fitting on aft magazine was simple, light room and magazine access stair. Lower deck beams over the magazine were added.
 
One more progress was finishing oil trial. I usually used linseed oil and wax for the finishing of furniture but they have a problem of bonding strength with glue on the oiled surface. So I tried varnish type oil and found that the result of joining strength and color was not so bad.
 
Happy new year!
 
Lee

Thank you Mark. Yes, I,d like to full planking in and outside of port side. Starboard side will be left unplanked except wale and reband.
 
Lee

Port side inner hull planking, limber board and bolting
 
Inner hull between thick stuffs of port side were planked. Planking boards were tapered and dropped at the ends of fore and aft.
 
To simulate bolting, blackened steel pins were nailed. Two kinds of bolt heads, square and round size of around 1mm, were tried but they seem to be oversized in this small scaled ship.

Thick stuff, footwaling, mast step, hooks and aft magazine
 
I decided to plank only the port side to see the inner parts after finishing this ship. As one trial, half of aft magazine platform was planked. To get some contrast, I choose lumber of bright domestic pear wood for the planking board.
 
Cheers,

Tip - Joining Clamp
 
In this small scale model, the spacing between frames is very narrow, sometimes less than 1mm, holding parts after gluing is somewhat difficult. For this, I made special clamping tool and found that it is quite useful and handy, so I introduce it to all. As can be seen at last pic, it can be made easily with paper clip and small wood block and wedge without special tools.
 
Cheers

Many thanks Nils for your compliment.
 
Small update today. Lower thick stuffs are added with steam bent long strakes. She becomes stronger day by day.

Hi, Allan. Thank you for your interest on my building log. I'm following the plan of "Anatomy of the Ship" series written by Goodwin. Yes, there are evenly spaced 6 gun ports at each side of hull and also, some of top timber are used as the post supporting the sheer rail. In my understanding, the shifting of top timbers is assumed to accommodate the mismatch of gun port and frame position. Anyway, it is quite unique frame design.
 
Lee

Keelson and limber strake
 
Small update by joining keelson and limber strake but, the structure became a little stronger one.

Thank you for kind comment, Mark. I agree with you about the importance of frame alignment. I've thought about using base plate with squaring jig but I concluded it would be useless due to the irregularity of frame shape. Fortunately, frames are flexible enough, I'll try to adjust frames to keep alignment and symmetry during joining cross members.
 
Lee

Finishing frame structure
 
I've finished joining all the frames including fashion piece and wing transom. Counter timbers and other transom structures will be added later. As was done at fore cant frames, aft cant frames also glued to the deadwood directly without paring out the deadwood. Bearding line, the locus of cant frame feet on deadwood, was estimated with the help of Christian's plan. Below the bearding line, deadwood was tapered to the rabbet of the keel and stern.
 
Though, the shape and spacing of frames are not well ordered, it began to seem like a boat, at least.

Forward cant frame and hawse pieces.
 
After all the square frames were joined with glue to the keel assembly, forward cant half frames and hawse pieces were glued. It was also not clear, there is no sign of scoring or mortising on the apron at the plan of Goodwin, I glued cant frames directly on the forward apron. The feet of them were matched to just above the rabbet line. Now, I'm going to aft.

Square frames
 
All the parts of frame were cut out from pear boards of three different thickness and glued to the square frames. After glued joints dried, all the frames were roughly trimmed and beveled to the final shape. Smoothing the inner and outer surfaces will be done after they are joined with keel.
 
As shown on Goodwin's framing plans, most of 2nd futtocks and top timbers are shifted from lower timbers. I don't know this unique design of frame is the same as that of original ship. Though building frame of this design seems to be very tough, it is very attractive point especially for this small scale.
 
Following pics show the progress of work. In these pics, frames are not glued yet but inserted to rising wood of the keel assembly.
 
LEE

Part 2.
Assembly of stem post, apron, keel, rising wood, stem post, inner post, dead wood. Keelson assembly was also finished. Rabbet trench for the plank board was carved at this moment.
Please estimate the size and scale of this boat with 150mm ruler.

Oops, I missed one.
In this work, I'm using black colored bond
to emphasis the bonding line
because normal bonding line is almost invisible.
Black bond is made by mixing small amount of carbon black into normal white glue.
How about the result?

Hi,
First posting trial to join this community!

Part two was just some questions and answers.  But I was a little rushed.   Usually we dont have enough time to devote what is needed for the whole presentation.  But here it is anyway.
 
I am not sure if it adds anything more to part one.....but here it is.   Its hard to hear the questions being asked.   Most of the conversation in the middle revolves around someone asking me about a hull with many drop planks and or stealers as described in another authors practicum...just putting them in wherever and whenever.  Hopefully that will make the audio make more sense.
 

Everything below the wale,   I did include the garboard......... I actually have a second planking draft that is slightly different and shows 21....this one is just more clear  to post,  not to confuse the situation.  There are also two deck plans.  All original but with slight differences.   The important thing to note however is that they are identical in showing no steelers and the one drop plank.
 
When I started planking,  I had two versions of my own plans ready to go....I found that after doing the math,  the 20 strake scheme was a perfect match to fit 3/16" wide planks mid ship in two belts.   Once the hull was lined off and I divided into two belts, below.   Each ten plank belt divided up into perfect 3/16" wide strakes at the center bulkhead.
 

 

 
The break at the square tuck divided the hull perfectly with ten strakes in each belt.   Whereas the one that showed 21 strakes would need a funky smaller fraction.    Its a lot easier to rip 3/16" wide planks and its a standard wood thickness to buy,  so I went with that one.
 
As a side note....I added the drop plank and the first two strakes in the first belt before I lined off the hull.  It just made it easier to do the lining off.  Thats why you can see them in the picture while I lined out the hull.

Jan wrote:
 
has nothing to do with actual "real world" planking techniques. In the real world there are no planks wide enough to allow for the amount of spiling required in his method.
 
Of course, Chucks models look absolutely great, but in my eyes more than perfect, where at least my - beginners - strife is for real world authenticity, I mean, whats the point of making everything above the waterline look absolutely real up to the smallest detail, while the other half the ship (the under water section) is a fiction?
 
 
Jan...Not fiction at all.     
 
But I know folks say that steelers and drop planks are just fine and were used historically.   That is true....but the huge number of them you see on model ships and explained as the proper way to do it in many books and instruction manuals and practicums.   Its just a crutch.    So whatever the method.....a hull that looks like this is not something I find attractive or even historically accurate.  So I prefer to go for fewer and replicate the way its done on a similar contemporary model or shown in a contemporary draft from the same era.  Its just my preference.  
 
I have no intention on picking on the fellow who planked this hull below.   But its extreme steelers gone wild and if this is the way he (or you) wants to go its OK.  But I find many people using them and only because they find an example where one or two were used historically, and  it is just a short rationalization further to go ahead and use  5 or six  or even more at the bow and as many at the stern.  I disagree entirely.  Its just an easy fix and a crutch.    I just dont think its accurate or aesthetically pleasing.  This is in terms of what we were discussing earlier.  I will say this.   To plank the hull like this fellow did would probably take longer and be more frustrating than it would to just give lining out a hull a chance.  Cutting all of those weird shapes randomly etc.
 

 
One drop plank at the bow at most...and no stealers at the stern.   That is what I will always shoot for.    I think its more accurate and looks better.  Not that you wouldnt be able to scour the web for an example or two that is contrary to my opinion.   I just think its an excuse to continue to use them willy nilly and in huge numbers rather than learn how to spile and plan a hull's planking.   Again,  just my opinion.  And its Ok.   If folks are happy with that, fine,  But I just dont buy the argument that this image above is accurate in any way...even if you could find one example that might look a bit like it.
 
I would rather not get into a lengthy debate about it either because its one of those circular debates.  Its just a matter of choosing what you are willing to live with on your project...without trying to force the idea that it must be accurate because one image exists showing something maybe a little similar so...... Then they feel better about using them and wont bother trying to figure it out beyond that.   I have had countless discussions on the matter actually.  Its more complex than this because it depends on the country of origin,  the year,  the shape of the bow and hull etc.   There is no one size fits all, what kind of ship.........  An apple bowed whaler will certainly be planked differently than a sharper cutter or frigate built 75 years earlier and from different countries.   Dutch practice vs. English practice.  There is just too much to consider for a simple answer..
 
But I am so lucky because I have this below.   Its the planking expansion...just a portion of it so I dont violate any copyright rules...and its for the Cheerful.  So I am very comfortable saying its reasonably accurate and the actual ship was closely replicated.    Its not fiction at all.  The draft shows exactly 20 strakes below the wales.   One drop plank only,  no steelers.  I have no idea how they would have done this in actual practice but there are plenty modeling techniques that can achieve this result.   That is if its something you would have fun learning how to do.
 

Time in the shipyard has been at a premium these last 2 weeks.  But we do have a small update as we cross the 900 hour mark into the build.
 
The foresheet bitts (with 'working' sheaves), foremast hoop and  deck beams have been added up in the bow.  In addition, the stove has reached it's final destination:
 

 
The last of the forecastle deck beams:
 

 
The view from the bow:
 

 
Next we'll be putting in the hanging and lodging knees and carlings.
 
 
 
 
 
 

The heavy lifting on the bow section has been completed with the installation of all the hanging/ lodging knees and carlings.  In addition, the inboard planking has been completed:
 

 
Next up is the completion of the inboard planking on the quarterdeck so that we can get to putting some rails on this lady.
 
 

Hi Mark.
Just want to say thanks for all the great photo's sir along with all the other folks photo's, they are a great help in figure out some of the items and hope you get to take more of them in the future. I did lower the leading edge of the top front rail maybe a hair or two to follow the planking behind it which does run with the sheer and used it as a stright edge. Does seem to have brought it more in line. Lowering it two much just might  mess with the items above it. You are so right Mark it is the viewpoint.One can look at it from a thousand view's and still not get it right, having your eyes and others as another set of eyes really help's to see what one doesn't.  I found out some times leveling something depends on how other items look around it which sometimes are not level. Here is a old and new showing the top rail forward edge. At the moment it is just pinned in place in case I need to take off another hair or two. 
Gary
 
 
 

Hi Siggi.
From what I can tell her rails are running with the outside sheer. Here is a photo from her plans and another photo showing  what I built. Easier to tell when they are side to side. Might just have to take another hard look. Siggi it might be the angle I took the photo at, maybe a little on the high side.
Gary
 

Here is a few on the cannon's. Hope you enjoy them.
 
Gary



 
 

Thanks Mario and Dave.
 
 Mario your so right sir and work has kept me away from Montagu but I do look in on the site, to help me get through those times when there wasn't enough time to do any ship building. Things have eased up a bit the last month and have been working on the stern and the thirty two pounders which have all been installed and have a few more tackles to make up for them. In the mean time the stern upper and lower counter curves have kept me busy trying to get their curves just right. Seems every time I thought I had it right, found a part that didn't look just right and tore  it off just to redo it.
 
 To me if those curves are not right your eyes lets you know, and every thing else is built upon those curves. So getting them right was high on the list. A make or break sort of item. Some thing that helped was the ideal that I got out of Davids new book the fire ship comet, the quarter gallery berthing piece on page 111. He talks about how he mount this on Comet so figure I would try it. After making 3 of them, I finally manage to make a port and stbd that fit the bill and this in turn help big time in getting her upper and lower counter curves to lay proper.
 
 In the process the top plank on the lower counter was a little shy on meeting the rail of the lower counter and had to make a new one. Not glueing the planks in place and held by a small amount of glue on tree nails made pulling it off a lot less nerve racking. One thing about building up the curves of the quarter gallery is figuring out the curve of them. But there is hope for finding their curve  at least the one I came up with. English plans only show one pattern for this curve and that is on the quarter deck level, but is bigger then the ones that fit the upper deck. Taking their size off of the stern and sheer view and using the quarter deck pattern one can get it real close in size, which I do believe Montagu is just right. Sorry about the long delay in a up date. 
 
 Gary