Jump to content

Cap'n Rat Fink

Members
  • Content Count

    781
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    CALIFORNIA,USA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,040 profile views
  1. I was planning on stopping on the Hannah a bit after I completed the Poop Deck framing. I wanted to start another scratch build. I have a buddy who wanted to build a model boat so i gave him one of my kits. He is a good model builder, but never made a boat. I gave him the kit under the condition I got the box , book, and plans back unscathed. So he made copies and wrote all over his and cut out portions out to do his build. He did a great job. So I am going to start making the build board will I hopefully get my questions answered on the Hannah. here the book.
  2. Hi Mark! That question does not even surprise a bit. I offend wondered myself. Thanks for stopping by Buddy! You will find my answer some what down below. Last of the deck framing is done, with the completion of the last ledging and the breast hook combination at the bow. Now for the poop deck framing. For the stantions I first make small cuts into each frame with my rotary tool. it makes it easier then starting with an exacto knife. the rest of the cut is done with an exacto saw blade. Then finished up with manicure files. Now I was going to continue on with the Poop Deck. But Mark Taylor presented a question to me. Did the Hannah have a Orlop deck? I offend wondered about this. Did Hahn omit this from his model for the simple reason he was construction a model simplified for the first time POF model builder? I don't know. I hope Dave Stevens takes a look here on my build log and maybe answer my question here. Hahns book does stated the Hannah was basicly build from examples from the Halifax back in 1775 I think. I still have access to the hull interior, so I am tempted to do this if I can get clarification on the interior of the hull. I also wondered about hanging knees and where would they be located at and the lodging knees. The ships smoke stack....there has to be a lower deck where the stove is located. Am I correct about that??? IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME WITH THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE CHIME IN. BECAUSE THAT WOULD BE A LOT MORE FUN WITH THIS MODEL!!! I added a picture of the Halifax to help with these questions. I have the Poop Deck ready to go. But going to wait a little bit to see if I get any answers to my questions
  3. Al, Ken, and Denis, Thanks for stopping by and your kind remarks! I try to give as much info of my building process as I can. So if others have questions I had hoped with my detailed explanations I could answer some of their questions. When I read some builds that have very good details it helps me a lot. There are builds that really great work but not much explanation how did it and I wish they had. The practicum is very good. But I treat any practicum like the "PIRATES CODE". It's more like guide lines. I go by what it says and at times I go with what feels right for me to get it done. The big difficulty with this kit is the jig. The jig is nice, but once you get to a certain point it has to go. Hahn's jig the model is left in during the planking. I had to remove it because i could not put the Wales on. Most of the hull and the deck will be planked. Thanks for stopping by Mario
  4. Thanks Guys for your kind remarks... Hello All, trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model. So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear. I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also. I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside. I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL. I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame. My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!! As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.
  5. HELLO ALL, BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE. SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM. THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION. THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING. THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!
  6. Real Cool Mark, I like how you added the "don't mess with me attitude to your ship".
  7. Better late then never, But the last time I was here you were building Pritt. She came out beautiful. Congrats John.
  8. Hi Hakan, Looking forward to your second try, but from what I see she's gonna look really nice. Your planking skills are v VERY good.
  9. Hi John Been gone a long while finally read thru your whole log here to catch up. Love the history of your chosen projects. A nice model in the works.
  10. The fairing of the starboard side transom went without a hitch. They look rough. But so does the rest of the hull. The final fairing will be done when I pull the model from the building jig. I left a lot of material on the first set of transoms, being my first time doing this process I wanted to make I was good with enough material. It went well so I went ahead and removed enough material to make the fairing a bit less time consuming. The tape was there to protect the sternpost from the rough fairing. Building this portion of the model did not seem to me to be very hard to do. Measuring and transferring those measurements from plans to material and rechecking payed off. The practicum for this part of the build was very informative.
  11. Nope Mark you not missing a thing. They are bigger. This is my first doing this. So I left more timber. Just did not want to screw up and have too little. The starboard I will shape them with less material as suggested in the practicum. Just covering my butt. Wood be a bear to have to remove them if not enough material. Practicum suggest this shape will I will do on starboard... Off course the wider side towards the deadwood.
  12. Looking good Mark, Little stuff. Your looking at a bigger boat next time! Admiral permitting. WOW! YOU HAVE SOMETHING IN COMMON WITH THIS GUY.haha
  13. Ok I am in the process of adding the other 4 transoms. I took all measurements from Hahns plans. All pieces are 1/8" in thickness including the basswood spacers. You will see pictures of the plans. To bar any issues from showing this online with all this copy rights thing going on, the pictures of the plans were taken at an angle to distort them a bit. If anybody sees that I have an issue with my transoms please tell me because I am learning. I am following Bob's practicum. Which has been very helpful. Learning a lot here!

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...