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Everything posted by Mundie
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Yea, I followed "usedtosail" and used Gesso as a primer- I took great concern with filling in as many gaps and bumps as possible- and sanded and primed the entire hull. I was aware that the copper tape is somewhat thin and any imperfections would show- the two "gaps" at the bottom of the hull are for my custom made stand so I can complete the model then the very last thing will be to plank and copper the two slots.
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Ok, so I decided to bypass the "authentic" planking and use larger bass wood in order to get the model done before the year 2115! I know to some this would be "high treason" but hey I'm a beginner and it's all good to me for my 1st build.It's going to be a gift for my dad. So I'm about to prime the wood a copper the hull. It took over 3 hrs to cut and pounce the nail marks, I took Hunt's advice and watched a movie while I did it. Any advice on coppering would be appreciated.
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It seems to me that the more experienced the modeler the better and faster they are. Ive given up on perfection and Im just trying to make it acceptable for my level. Its a difficult model, and lots of fun. Your knights head looks great, just make sure not to glue anything until its test fitted, the knights head gets planked over anyway, so a small imperfection is no biggie, at least to me. Many expert modelers on this site settle for nothing less then perfect, I may too one day join these ranks, but for now, good enough is good enough.
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Howdy, I started this model a year or so ago. It's my first build, and would pretty much by lost without Hunt's practicum. I made a few huge mistakes, but was able to fix them. I tend to deviate from the practicum at times because I really want to just have fun and I'm not striving for perfection on this 1st build. I'm about to finish planking the haul and begin coppering. Have Fun. Mundie
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So, I stained the deck (Miniwax-Golden Pecan) and stained the hatches (Miniwax-Early American) and painted the bulwarks and main rail; and I'm in the process of adding the planks above the mainrail. I deviated from the practicum and drilled the holes for the plank supports (toothpicks) after I glued the mainrail down; I thought it would be easier to align the angles on the holes since the bulwarks are slightly angled- and it would not matter if I aligned the empty spaced to accommodate the supports- I would just drill right into the wood- I started w a very small bit and graduated to the correct size to avoid wood splitting. I used ModelExpo paint, I like the color, and have never used any other type, so my opinion is limited.
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Well, I finished planking the deck. I had a problem, the bass wood supplied by the manufacturer was slightly smaller then the extra strips I bought from Model Expo- I decided not to strive for "perfection" on my first build or it may be 2035 before completing the ship! Ha- it turned out ok, and I'm happy with the way it looks even though I didn't taper the stern end of the planks.
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So I deviated from the practicum on this coaming hatch because I could not get the "lock and grove" method to look good. This isn't perfect but it's good enough. The pictures are self explanatory for what I did. I used a sharp X acto blade to get clean cuts and used the line on the cutting mat to get the correct 45° angle; then trimmed here and there for a good fit. A little wood putty helped fine tune a few tiny gaps. I generally would like to stay away from putty- I kinda think it looks a bit more authentic just leaving the wood as is, but a little here and there won't hurt.
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Hatch coamings.
Mundie replied to Mundie's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I meant the hatch coaming frames/ but I figured it out after studying the plans- I just got a little confused. -
Wow!! Just found this log. Great job!! I'm inspired to continue my build.
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