Blueskippy

Firstly - Apologies if my nautical parlance is not up to scratch but this ship modelling is a steep learning curve. HM Schooner Pickle is my second pob build, and I have decided to post a build log for a couple of reasons: Looking through MSW as a first timer was a constant source of help and ideas, the Build logs, downloadable files, and topics on the help forum got me past many hiccoughs (& mistakes on my behalf) and got me to the end of HM Cutter Sherbourne with a model that, though I constantly wish I had done "that" different etc, I am proud of. Secondly it has been mentioned by many people that lots of content has been lost since the "great crash" so hopefully my contribution could help fill the void - and though I am still very much a beginner, I will be pointing out things that I do differently this time around - possibly helping other starters. HM Schooner Pickle On recieving the long awaited parcel (3 whole days) I curbed my instinct to get "stuck in" ,and as well as the obligatory examination of all the wonders enclosed (Brass turned carronades, copper plates et,al) I took the time to completely read the two manuals (far better than those included with Sherbourne)and look over the plans thoroughly. So far so good no unpleasant surprises. First things first, I removed and cleaned up the edges of all nine frames & the Keel, and dry fitted them - no problems there. Next step was to taper the keel from the bearding line to the stern, this was surprisingly easy to do with a chisel bladed hobby knife and sandpaper, continuously checking the measurements with a vernier - this is also not something mentioned in the Sherbourne manuals and plans and would make a world of difference. The next step is hopefully where I will simplify my efforts compared with Sherbourne: Being a newcomer I did not understand the importance of bevelling the bulkheads to follow the curve of the hull. The result was a first planked hull that needed at least 4 hours with sandpaper and about 2lb's of filler, and even then the second planking was difficult due to very flimsy sections to attach to. Perseverance, and initial enthusiasm was all that got the second planking completed. With this in mind I am starting with a trick I believe will help (I am not sure after so many hours on the internet where this one was from, but whoever you were THANKS in advance) The idea is quite simple (once someone else has had it); to get a strong smooth first planking the bulkheads need to be bevelled to continue the shape of the hull, and give the greatest surface area to glue to, but the furthest outside point of the bulkhead needs to be kept to keep the hull lines correct. The idea is that you colour the edges of the bulkhead with something such as a black permanent marker, then start bevelling the bulkheads as per the kits instructions - or the guides on msw - but allways leaving some black showing from top to bottom on each bulkhead. I will let you all know how this went for me after the weekend - the boss requires heavy sanding to be done outside and it's rain till sunday!! Skippy

Thanks Tony thought I had checked everywhere on the site..... Doh!! Interesting and informative pdf. Skippy

Thanks for your comments, I think I will order a sample of maple, and one of lime (basswood I believe) and compare. I see what you mean about chucks builds..... One day maybe?!?! Thanks again

Thanks all, maple or beech it is then, I like the sound of cherry but don't want Red for this job. Michael you were right my closest supplier is Cornwall model boats, they have so far been helpful, competitive and fast in deliveries. I like where possible to use local(ish) companies. Thanks again all, I am sure I will be asking more questions in the near future. Skippy

Hi all, I am a relative newcomer to the hobby,but have done a lot of plastic aircraft in the dim and distant past. I am almost at the end of my first build - HM Cutter Sherbourne (pictures to follow) and after perusing many logs, think I have decided on HMS Pickle for my next model. But here is where it gets complicated; I loved doing Sherbourne and even did a small amount of "bashing" (with a little b and want to increase the detail levels on Pickle, the first being the visible wooden planking. Blue Ensign did a superb job on his version using ebony and boxwood (loved your log BE), and I have decided to swap out the annoying supplied walnut in the visible unpainted areas. But I know next to nothing about wood and their relative merits, the options from my preferred supplier are as follows: Maple Beech Bokapi Cherry Dibetou Mukali & Spruce All are available in the correct sizes and all seem reasonable in price. What I need is a wood that has a warm light colour, but more importantly is easy to work with, and holds a sharper edge than the supplied walnut. Any help would be much appreciated.