foxy

Thanks David and Keith.
 
Yes you right David, its much easier when you have the part to copy, as long as the part you are copying is correct .
So far it has been so.
 
Yep Keith this is turning out very Interesting, in the nick of time to, was starting on the spars etc as a variation to the build.
 
Well been busy with more to this ship.
Working on the forecastle, opened up the doors and one for'd hatch.

First coat sprayed with Admil French blue paint.
Using dafi's etch for the gun hatchs, made two more for the bow( sickbay) that I have opened.

.
Again working on the same principle with double sided tape to hold the gun hatch's iplace and number them.

Added eye bolts and hinge's from Dafi's etch set for this ship.

Also at this time working on the boats, the larger barge is not with the kit, so have used the 1/96 USS Constitution but have to extend the hull. did this again copying what others have done to get the right length.

Once dry will sand down.

Used this plastic putty to fill any gaps.


More soon methinks.

foxy

Thanks David.
Well after the advise on the plastic spars I had a go at the bowsprit.
 
First removed the plastic bowsprit ends and added a wood one, have a brass boom for the top half later.


With wood inplace and much stronger me thinks.

Also changed the main mast top spar and added wood and brass final.


Waiting on Cornwall model boats for some more wood.
 
Foxy

Right added most of the centre items and guns on the lower deck.


Bow end.

Then test fitted the middle deck to line up with the lower deck.

This with a bit of weight to make sure all seated well.

Also lined up loose the next deck gratings and capstans, plus the masts,(very Important).

Loose fitted the poop deck to check fit.

Also added the siren messenger and bowser ropes.




Very pleased with it so far.


Foxy

Thanks Daniel and David.
 
That is very timely, I have for the bowsprit kept the plastic bottom half and used brass for the main spars here.
No picture as I have already sprayed them.
As for the main upper and royals, that is something I will be changing from plastic to wood, was going for brass, but now I have my lathe it will be a lot easier in wood.
Will be doing the upper spars in wood.




 

Thanks again for the timely words, will strip this part down and put wood/brass for this section.
Brass at top and plastic bottom, will strip out the plastic bottom half and substitute for wood.
Ordered some from Cornwall Model Boats, just up the road from me.

foxy

For my next move I started putting the masts and yards together.


Added Dafi's etch to the spars.



Kept all loose at this time.

 
foxy

Hi Keith.
 
Not sure yet, if I do it will be on the middle deck, the lower gun ports will be closed after lots of debating on this part of the build.
 
Having pictures of the progress and enjoying all of the aspects so far, also to stop any damage as the bulge at this point of the ship makes it easy to course a mishap.
The base was next to sit the ship safely.
A friend of mine who makes things out of wood( bowls etc) has come up with a very nice piece of wood,''at a very good price too'.
 
The supports are from the kit and just sprayed.



Next I worked on the bow end with manger and messenger posts in place, will be using Syren ropes for this part from the main capstan through the bits to the hawser exit point.

Also roping the guns at this stage for the 32 pdrs.

Fitted one end dafi's etch parts.
To line the ropes up I made a jig.

Out of odd plastic bits and clamped to the table to work on.
The 32 pounders ready to place on board.


Made more support posts to make up the pillers holding the next level, this simply with a vice and dremel.



 Some of the other items  for the decks.
You will also note that I am using brass and plastic for the cross supports, the one's that come with the kit are more than useless with this type of build.
More soon.

foxy

Thanks JP. yes that is very usefull and will have a go. just painted and sealed while I get on with other things handling the ship. Will come back to that later.
 
Lots of little items on the go.
Making the bilge pumps, used dafi's etch and some scratch items.

 

 

Note double blocks also being made,' got to keep busy you know'.

Painted main pumps and placed.
Found the heads were to small in scale ,so rebuilt them.

 

Next it was the channels these from Daniels experience need widening at the bow end by at least 3mm.

I added for all of them, but was put right by Daniel on this.
Here's my mistake, but put right now,'Phew'.

Next was to build the tiller.

Using evergreen plastic, Dafi's eye bolts and Syren blocks.
 

 

They work too.
The blocks that is, but will not once fitted.
 
More soon.
 
foxy

While working on different items as I go along, I found some very nice steering wheels from RBmodels.
 
Brass they are and fit the bill for my build.


Come in kit form but fit together like a glove.




Also in the pursuit of realism moved to the upper works which have brass inserts, these were not square, so some plastic filler was ness.




After removing struts and sanding/replacing struts the shape was better after some coats of paint .


At the same time started on the partitions that I felt the detail was not enuff.
Added Dafi's etch window frames at this time.



Paint used to complete these.

Sorry about the clutter in the last picture.
More soon me thinks.

foxy
 

Next it was the bumble bee effect, or chequered pattern .for this I used Life color paints for the dark and Admil paints for the yellow.

 

 
Then a coat of matt varnish to seal.
 
Working on the lower deck I made some false boxes for the orlop steps.

 

Added steps later.
 

 
foxy

Some other pictures of other parts on the go.

Making the block and tackle for the guns later on, this using the 2mm Syren blocks single and double, they work too .



First glue one side. Add dafis hooks.






Next its the double blocks with longer tails.

foxy

Moving on from the last pictures of the mast's, now I can test fit as I go along.

Then its back to the lower deck.

Hanging knees was the next thing, using coffee sticks I acquired from my visit to California last year.

After painting white, fixed with PVA to existing wood sides and painted all white.




Both sides done, its on to decking out this deck.




More soon me thinks.

Foxy

 

So now to the masts.

Added bras rod to the centre's of fore/main and mizzen masts.
Not really ness, but for strength I went ahead and did this.


Next it was the rings around masts, they were not sharp enuff I thought, so sanded and replaced with slaters plastic strips.



These were painted black Using admiralty Paints(water based).





Will add more later for other decks as I go along.

Foxy

Thank you JP and Wayne.
 
JP yes there is a resin set of the entry port by Dafi .
Picture from Dafi's build, with his kind permission.

Showing the set, you get two sets plus the crown and wreath above the entrance.

Hope to show later in the build.
 
You are right on the jib boom, that will be in brass.
 
foxy

Well time to show the inners of the hull to get the right thickness.
I used evergreen plastic and maple wood for the inside planking.


At the same time worked on the lower deck planking


This deck come's in two parts, glued both together.
The planking is wrong as the joins should be three to four planks apart.
My first mistake, till I took advice, but as its a deck you will not see I will put it down to learning about planking.


Finished deck, then its test fit to hull.



Note the maple fitted to lower deck.

Next was spraying a primer for plastic and brass.

Drilled- cut out the two for'd windows.



Seems the primer is good for resin too.

Foxy

Well time for a change, and seems most go for the guns, so gun's it is.
I will be working on these throughout the build.
First the barrels come in two parts and the trucks in five parts, then there's Dafi's King George crest and eyebolts, plus trunnion caps .
Made up the barrels.

The trucks.


'Hey presto'.

Added trigger caps to the 32 pounders out of plastic.

Added eyebolts and KG Crest.

60 done for the lower and middle decks.

Lower gun has the flintlock trigger from Dafi's etch, plus the KG motif on the barrel.

More soon.

Foxy

Thanks Daniel .
 
Hi Keith.
 Well if it was not for Daniels etch and resin set, plus his very extensive posting of his lower deck detail, I to would have gone the wood ship direction.
I like working in plastic, so this has proved a challenge for me to also get as much detail on the gun decks.
 
Moving on with my build, I started on the hull and stern area first, most it seems go for the building of the guns, I to am going down that road, first to keep me grey cells ticking over plus to not lose interest in the build, working on one area of the ship will soon make it hard work, an interest fade..
 
Right enuff rattling, on with the show.

 
After cleaning up the stern I sprayed a plastic/brass primer overall, 'will explain later why later'.
First the stern etch fitted, less the eye bolts which I will fit when all is finished with the windows etc.
Filled in pot holes to the inside, later sand down.

Then added the Dafi's victory sign , it comes with a template so you cannot go wrong on the spacing of the letters.



Next it was the crown, 'now this might seem strange', when the ship comes with the three feathers of the Prince of Wales.
I am sure most know about this, but for those that do not, the plumes came from Nelsons last battle and were retrieved for the second rate HMS Prince, that unfortunately sank at this battle, the plume was rescued and placed on the Victory later.
But my build is before the battle, so there is a picture of the crown in the wardroom of victory's upper deck.
That's the reason for replacing the plume for a crown.

I had Dafis etch one made up but it pinged off into the wilderness, so had to scratch build this, But still had the etch small parts on the fret, so saved me making them.


Next I added the Dafi's etch rigols to the hull.

Also added Dafi's resin steps, using CA, this job you have to be very care full with as some need sanding down to fit flush against the hull side.



Doing all this before adding first primer of paint.

More soon.

Foxy

 

Books I am using are:-
 
 
Anatomy of HMS Victory= by John McKay.
Seaforth Historical Ships, HMS Victory= by Jonathan Eastland & Iain Ballantyne.
Owners workshop manual of HMS Victory=by Haynes(Royal Navy).
The Anatomy of Nelsons ships=by C Nepean Longridge.
Rigging period ships = by Lennarth Petersson.

Started by removing the single style steps.


Having studded the plans I found the lug support for the bower anchor was in the wrong place, so had to make another.


Using evergreen plastic for this item.


Cleared all detail:- three feathers(later for a crown), removed the Victory name plate from the rear

Will replace with the Dafi fret of this sign.


More soon Foxy

Hi.
New here. I see that any medium of ship can be shown here as a build.
 
Mine will be from the Heller Kit, but with Dafi's etch sets.
 
Will also scratch build most of the deck detail from the lower deck to the poop deck.
Materials used will be the plastic, PE and resin.






Some of the etch I will be using.




Will be altering the hull steps to the later part of Victory's career.
 
Also using evergreen and syrin rope, blocks and other items.

Hope you find this Interesting.

Foxy

Thank you very much Lawrence for your nice words and for your wishes!!!   I'm looking forward your return to the shipyard!!
 
Best Regards
Dimitris

Hi Ronald.
The photo etch comes from Dafis wonderful etched sets.
If you contact him I am sure he will help you.
Just hit on his sig and send a message.
As for the wood deck, well its 2mm and 3mm I used and came from Cornwall model boats.
Just type this in and you should be able to find there site.
I used maple wood for this build.
 
Moving on with the stay's done for standing rigging its time for the ratlines to be done.
 
I thought in this scale that if I tied them it would be oversize.
So the simple way seemed the best.
Just glue to the shrouds.



To save time and glue I did all the shrouds with three rows, then left to dry and cut off the excess.



This is time consuming but it works!!!.



One other thing I did was to move the Anchor rest forward between the first two chains, this allowed the anchor to sit right later.

Frank.  

What a great!! build...... just loved what you did on the stove ( plus everything else )...... I'm a big fan of LifeColor too !
 
Frank

Hi Ronald.
The photo etch comes from Dafis wonderful etched sets.
If you contact him I am sure he will help you.
Just hit on his sig and send a message.
As for the wood deck, well its 2mm and 3mm I used and came from Cornwall model boats.
Just type this in and you should be able to find there site.
I used maple wood for this build.
 
Moving on with the stay's done for standing rigging its time for the ratlines to be done.
 
I thought in this scale that if I tied them it would be oversize.
So the simple way seemed the best.
Just glue to the shrouds.



To save time and glue I did all the shrouds with three rows, then left to dry and cut off the excess.



This is time consuming but it works!!!.



One other thing I did was to move the Anchor rest forward between the first two chains, this allowed the anchor to sit right later.

Frank.  

Cheers for that Daniel, well can remove ok and will add your version.

Well its Organised Chaos at the moment with one side of the stay ropes done.

For the blocks I am using Syren 3mm and 2mm for the lesser ropes, with Dafis eyelets already positioned.
The main top.



Running down to the channel.



Some of the chaos on the deck.



The shrouds on the top masts are run through the top and left loose at the moment.





The tuther side is next with the blocks made up, so should be faster.

Frank. 

Thanks very much Lawrence, much better now thanks  .
 
Well have been busy of late with all the top ropes strung.



Left loose till main stay ropes have passed over mast/shroud.

Then tightened up.



With the main stay ropes in place.



One point is the main stay ropes to the bowsprit.
As all know they pass through the bowsprit and then attach to block and tackle.
For those doing this build, its advisable to add the blocks near the knights head before adding the netting and booms.
This will be a lot easier.
The blocks I used for this were of Syren manufacture and can move if ness.



Next its the stay ropes from masts to channels etc.

This is the sequence I am following for this static build.
Having good plans of the rigging helps, so far its standing rigging I am working on.

Thanks guys for all your imput and likes.

All the best Frank. 

Thanks Lawrence, There are so many good builds here its a job to take them all in.
Yours is no exception. 
Hi Ronald.
 
The deck planking are 2mm and 3mm, mostly 2mm wide maple.
I got mine from Cornwall model boats(England), there 1'000 in lengths, but they cut them down to export.
 
The lathe is of German make and I believe I got this from Axmister tools in England. 
 
I am sure you could also get these in the States too.
 
Hope this helps.

Moving on a touch with the top shrouds.



Keeping them loose on the running rigging till all done, then its the stay's to tension up and then tighten up the shroud runners.



You could if you wanted to make all adjustable, but as this is a static model all will be fixed.

Frank.