Keith_W

Thanks casey. If I sand back the treenails, that will mean I have to re-stain the wood. I suppose i'll have to cut the treenails very close so that I won't have to sand them too much. 

I can't post any more. I have run out of superlatives to throw at this build. 

I am about to embark on a new build. My last boat - which was the first time the entire boat was stained with wood - did not turn out so well. It was clinker built, and I had difficulty getting all the glue marks off so it would not stain evenly. 

My new boat is the MS Bounty launch. Like the Amati Viking, she was supplied in wood which needs to be stained to look good. 

I plan to leave part of the exterior unfinished and treenailed. Following my experience with my previous build, I am also planning to stain the planks before I mount it on the frame. I am using a water soluble stain. 

Here are my questions: 

- how well would the stain hold up to soaking, steaming, and plank bending? 

- once the hull is treenailed, how well would it hold up to sanding to get the treenails flush?

I am starting to think that it would be close to impossible to achieve the finish that I want. Help me, MSW!!

Very nice omarcs! Would love to see more detail of your ship. I have never heard of Scientific - even Google hasn't heard of them! Do they have a website? 

Also, there is a strange checkerboard pattern on your copper plating. Is that a side effect of camera aliasing?

Hi Pete, I have admired the models on the Euromodel website but to my knowledge there is no current build log on any of their kits. Given that you have a non-commercial relationship with Euromodel, and that you are just a very dedicated fan ... I suspect the moderators will not have a problem if you post your build logs? Of course I don't presume to speak for them, but I am sure that one of them will pipe up shortly. I think it would be a great resource for this site. 

Your work is first rate, but I would like to see how you achieved such precise results with the tools you have. That way we can learn as well as admire  

Intriguing hull shape there. Can't wait to see what it looks like when planked.

Please keep posting updates, we have missed you. 

Welcome to the site. I have recently completed a Viking ship (click on the link to be taken to the gallery). What I wanted was different to yours - I wanted a display model. It appears as if you want something to teach your son how to build a Viking ship. In that case, I would agree with Lee's recommendation of the Roar Ege. I have inspected this kit - it is lacking in some of the ornamentation in the Amati viking ship "Drakkar", or the Billings "Oseberg", but it does appear to be a realistic depiction of an actual Viking longship. Most importantly, the method of construction does appear to be historically accurate. The ship should also be suitable for a beginner, since it features laser cut planks. 

Click here for a link to the Roar Ege instructions (from Billings' website): http://www.billingboats.com/instructions/BB703%20Roar%20Ege%20_Instruction.pdf

As for a list of tools, take a look at MSW's resources page: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php

Wow, this ship is stunning. I just went back and re-read your build log. Great work!

Wow, I just saw this today. What a beautiful yacht! I would hesitate to build one, because I won't have anywhere to put it! 

BTW Tom, I was inspired by your build log so I bought a kit for myself. My build log will follow shortly Needless to say I will be re-reading yours very closely to get hints and tips. 

I had a look at a Linisher in a tool supply store. The finest grit that they had was 240. What the others said about this machine seems to be right - it is a little too industrial and too aggressive to be used for making delicate parts. I suspect it would grind a plank into sawdust in a single pass. Perhaps there are more hobby grade Linishers around? Like Mark's?

Well done! I very nearly pulled the trigger on this machine today. I would like to see more posts like this one, where you show how you use your machine. It might push me over the edge  

I recently met someone who recommended a linisher for woodworking. For those who don't know, a linisher is a combined belt and disc sander. This is what it looks like: 

The belt can be either stiff or floppy, and has a useful curve for sanding concave surfaces. I was told that it can also be used to taper dowels for masts. On top of its use with models, it can also be used to sharpen knives and garden tools. Use a polishing belt and some cutting compound, and it can polish metal. 

I have never seen this machine come up for discussion on this forum. I was wondering if someone owns one and can provide feedback as to how this machine compares with other common machines on this site (lathes, mills) for various tasks - for example: shaping planks and tapering dowels?

I just used it as it is. It didn't occur to me to mix it with water, to be honest! Hmm, something to experiment with then. 

Thank you Meredith, your kind words are appreciated. 

Greg, I am starting to be aware that there is no way I can follow all the build logs on this site. Even if I were to restrict myself to build logs by those people who are more skilled than I, that still leaves nearly everyone  

Mike, I used the Feast Watson Old Baltic stain which I bought from my http://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/paint-decorating/paint/wood-finishes/timber-stains?facets=BrandName%3DFeast%20Watson'>local hardware store. I bought this particular brand because it was the only brand that sold "sample size" quantities of stain. The problem is - the appearance of the stain on the wood looks quite different to the samples provided. I had to return to the shop four times, buying five different samples, before I settled on Old Baltic. 

Hi Sword, for some reason your FB links aren't showing up? I cluck through and it says "content not available". Have you turned photo sharing on?

Klaas, from Jotika's webpage here: http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Nelson_5.htm

Scale: 1:64

Length: 1300mm

Beam 490mm

Height 945mm

That is a good point. Hmm, disc sander perhaps?

I am also planning to buy a lathe. I wonder if I can glue sandpaper to a dowel and make a sanding drum with it.

Given that the bevelled edge will be facing inwards, and will not be seen in any double planked hull - I am not too concerned about the cosmetics of the chamfered plank. I don't bother myself with things that won't be seen. For now, it just needs to work. This is why I am after the quickest way to chamfer the plank.

Beautiful neat build, and not a spot of dust anywhere! How do you do it?

Thanks for the answer, Tom.

Thanks Joe, I want the milling machine for other things as well. I find sanding these planks to be quite fiddly and I can't get precise results, which is why I was wondering if it could be more precisely done. I have been looking at vices and clamps for milling machines, and i'm not sure if there is one that would allow you to bevel a plank. Are you aware of one? Anybody?

Sorry for the gravedig. I have built several models and I have always found plank bevelling to be a pain in the backside. I lack the patience to sand back each plank, so with the last model I built I used my Dremel. The problem is that I got unevenly bevelled planks.

Short of purchasing a disc sander, has someone come up with a plank bevelling jig where you can use a power tool? My next purchase is a milling machine ... would it be possible to use that to bevel planks?

Lovely new machine, that's on my wish list too!

Frank it's a Proxxon MF70. Specs list is here: http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27110.php