Keith_W

I don't treenail from the inside ... I drill from the inside! I inserted the treenails from the outside. The inside of the boat is visible, so I wanted my treenails to go all the way through. I also cut my treenails flush as I go along and wipe off excess glue. I used white glue with some wood stain, thinned with a tiny bit of water. I didn't want the stain to linger around and stain the planks, so I wiped it off. If you look at my Bounty Launch build log, you can see the effect of the darkened glue - the treenails have a little ring around them. Gives better definition IMHO.

I'm curious to see how this turns out. Subscribed!

Ingenious method for placing the treenails. When I treenailed my boat, I drilled the treenails out from inside. Very tricky work - I had to remember to keep my drill 90deg to the wood at all times, otherwise the outside hole would be uneven! Your treenails are beautiful!

My boat is constructed of the same basswood as yours. I found that dry sanding with successively finer grades was enough to produce a good finish.

That is gorgeous work. So neat and tidy. Well done!

Adrian, that's a really neat looking build for a first model. You obviously have the skills. 

Congratulations on completing your planking! Do you feel like a million dollars?  

The keel should have been clamped on before you started the planking. Do the Artesania instructions tell you to clamp the keel on after the planking? Too late for that now, I suppose you need some rubber bands and slow setting glue. Make sure the keel is absolutely straight and true before you leave the glue to set. 

Personally I would stain it with a water based stain of your choice. If you don't like the stain, you can always paint over it. 

Very nice, Tom! Maybe you should ask them to buy you power tools instead?

Thank you Bugra! 

That carving is stunning! You must be the Michelangelo of ship models!

Thank you Bindy! I will be back in Melbourne in slightly more than a week. I won't be home long though, because I take off for Tasmania shortly afterwards. 

CF, you need scotch tape which can be marked. Apply the tape to the gap, then use a pencil to trace the outline of the gap. Remove the tape and place it on a plank. Use a sharp knife to trim the tape up to the mark, then cut the plank to fit the tape. Make sure that you do not cut exactly to the outline of the tape - leave yourself some excess, then sand the rest of the plank until it fits the gap. 

Heh, maybe I should say "vacuum cleaner"  

I built my very first model without any power tools. All I had was a box cutter, some surgical tools, sandpaper, and a file. And, I did this in a tiny apartment. I managed OK - but if I did not have a vac cleaner, my wife would have killed me! 

Thanks for the comments. What about compressors? Do you guys use canned air, or do you all have a compressor? Some compressors come with tanks. Is it worth the extra investment? 

Saw an update on your thread and eagerly rushed in to see what progress you've made. Sad to see that you've actually gone a little backwards! How long will this add to your build? Another 2 years?  

I'm a kit builder - so i'll nominate "Dremel". 

I am intrigued by the Byrnes table saw, but I can't think of an application for it as a kit builder. Probably more my ignorance and lack of knowledge than anything else. I could definitely be persuaded to buy one if I knew what it can do for me Anyone? 

Thanks for posting this build log. I have been curious about this kit for a while. Unusual subject! You are doing great work, please keep us updated. 

I have a question about the rudder assembly, I might try and tackle that one night while watching glue dry. I doesn't look like the slot in the rudder where the pin assembly is has enough clearance for the rudder to actually come off like it might in real life...?

That's because it needs to be trimmed. Do you have a Dremel? Mount the sanding tool on the Dremel and it will make light work of it. 

You think that is expensive Take a look at this Amati Albion - $20,900. http://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/amati-ship-kits/amati-albion.html

(Yes I realize it's probably an error)

Meredith if you take a look at my Bounty Launch build log (in signature) you will see that I simply chisel off the heads of the treenails. Works very well. 

Why not try another ship and wait for the Amati Victory if that is your desire?

 

Perhaps the Agamemnon (also in 1:64)?

You know, your suggestion makes  a lot of sense. I have looked over Chris Watton's thread in great detail, and I think it is worth waiting for. IF the production Amati is anywhere near as good as the prototype, this really will be the ultimate Victory. Her size is impressive, the attention to detail is impressive - down to Chris changing the number of balustrades on the prototype when someone noted that all Victory kits are incorrect, including his. 

I even like your suggestion for the Agamemnon. It will be good to build up my skills before attempting the Victory. Owning a Victory has been my dream ever since I saw the original in Portsmouth as a kid. In fact, it was all the wooden models in the museum that fired up my interest in modelling. Waiting another 12 months won't do me any harm. 

Good to hear Steve, I would love to see your build log when you get started. One thing I like about other build logs is seeing how other modellers interpret the same ship - no doubt you will have a different take on it. 

By the way, I almost can't stand to look at this build log now. I am embarassed at all the mistakes I made. If I were to do it again, I would stain the wood prior to gluing, and I would be more careful mopping up excess glue - basic things that every ship modeller should know, but something I had forgotten in my many years break from ship modelling. 

All right, Caldercraft it is then!

Yes. Go http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php'>here and read Russell Barnes' tutorial on silver soldering. Note that he uses silver solder paste. Apply the paste to your joint, then hit it with a blowtorch. 

(edit) the link didn't work, so here it is again: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php

CF I did four planks at a time while waiting for them to dry. Two on each side. Depending on your local weather conditions, it will take a few hours for the planks to dry. I waited 24 hours with the planks in a sunny area before proceeding. In the meantime you can work on other areas of your model (e.g. making masts and spars). It is absolutely vital for the planks to be dry before mounting them on a single planked kit - as mentioned, wet planks expand and will shrink as they dry. If you mount planks which are still wet, they will shrink and create gaps in your planking. 

The best way is with something like this: https://www.frontlinehobbies.com.au/products/ART-27023?Artesania%20Nailer%20For%20WoodBoats

Push the nail into the plank as far as it will go with your fingers, then mount the nailer and push it in. No hammer required.