mrjimmy

JulieMo ran a topic on Hide Glue a while ago.  Tap on the link below and it will take you to a youtube lesson.........
 

 
Jim

Sorry, I need to explain one more thing about grain direction
 
After I applied a coat of Tung oil to the tulip it really showed the problem I have had with this thing. 
The center of the 'trunk' is clearly shown on the back of this piece,
and it translates to the front. Carving was difficult......and I simply could not get rid of the pimple.
That reminds me of my younger days
     
 
So, for relief carving stay away from this kind of wood.

After weights for 2 days, my upper rear deck is still warped, but not as bad...
 
Question: Can I plank that and lay it down after it's planked? Seems like that'd be easier.
 
I'm waiting for my disk/belt sander for xmas before starting on the filler blocks.

As a matter of fact, I have a mini disk/belt sander on order for Xmas. Love the way you can share lists with friends on Amazon. Prime to boot? Prime is going to take on a brand new meaning, you mark my words, right here and now.
 
Google is a noun and a verb. Is Prime?
 
I have a couple blocks of bass wood just for that and the stern. Last time I used balsa wood and it was not bad but once or twice I wished that I could put a needle or a nail in it, but balsa is of course too soft.

Please direct all questions about hide glue to Julie Mo...........she started all this.  If you watched the youtube video, you know exactly as much as I do.  I have never used the stuff, but let me know how it works out.
 
Jim

JulieMo ran a topic on Hide Glue a while ago.  Tap on the link below and it will take you to a youtube lesson.........
 

 
Jim

Please direct all questions about hide glue to Julie Mo...........she started all this.  If you watched the youtube video, you know exactly as much as I do.  I have never used the stuff, but let me know how it works out.
 
Jim

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

Added the hide glue to my xmas wish list on Amazon. Should have it here by the 25th.
 
Question. Is the pre-fabed stuff going to be a lot different than mixing it myself? Wife already wonders what I do out here all day, she'll think I'm cooking meth or something.
 
I've destroyed the deck, so I am thinking of painting it. The lower part only. Probably a buff color.
 
I'm thinking I don't really have to run the planking all the way out to the edges either. It all gets hidden and covered so as long as the wheels of the cannons all set on decking that is level all the canons should face the same height.

There has got to be a better way to lay deck planking than contact cement!
- Brian   Maybe you should try the Hide Glue trick?   Jim

JulieMo ran a topic on Hide Glue a while ago.  Tap on the link below and it will take you to a youtube lesson.........
 

 
Jim

JulieMo ran a topic on Hide Glue a while ago.  Tap on the link below and it will take you to a youtube lesson.........
 

 
Jim

What's that? I figured out I have some CA glue.

Thanks for the information about Spanish cedar.
 
My biggest pet peeve about Common names is that they make NO sense. Who ever comes up with some of them needs to have there head examined. Furthermore, they are so local. For some strange reason the common name of Juniperus virginiana is Eastern Redcedar with all other species known as juniperus. The wood of the tree species is used for furniture (cedar chests).
In the Chamaecyparis family there is:
Chamaecyparis nootkatensis (Alaska Yellow Cedar)
Chamaecyparis thyroids (Atlantic Whitecedar or Whitecedar False cypress
Chamaecyparis lawsoniana (Port Orford Cedar or Oregon cedar or Lawson Falsecypress)
 
When people ask me about some species in English I go through my "brain" hard drive and come up with all sorts of species. Then I describe them and see what the person thinks it is.
 
Bottom line...... I hate common names........ but it is necessary.
 
Marc

From a Forestry/Botanical point of view.. (quoted from several of my Taxonomy books)
Cedar is found in most parts of the world. It is a coniferous tree and is part of the pine family. They grow rapidly when exposed to direct sunlight. Cedar trees are used as decorative or ornamental purposes while landscaping
 
Benefits Of Cedar
The major uses of cedar tree are from its bark and oil. The bark of the cedar tree produces scented wood, known as cedar wood. Cedar oil is extracted from the cedar wood.
 
The wood is used for the following:
- It is resistant to decay and hence is suitable to build outdoor furniture.
- It produces aesthetically beautiful furniture.
- It is easy to work with as it is lightweight and doesn’t crack or split easily.
- It is highly durable.
- It can absorb sound effectively, so are used in building ceiling shingles.
- It is a good insulator; hence, when a home is built using cedar wood, it helps keep the home warm in winter and cool in summer.
- Though its color fades after a while, it can easily be restored.
- It doesn’t spread fire easily hence it is suited for building purposes.
- It is a natural anti-termite, which is it prevents furniture form rotting.
- Due to its lightweight and strength, western red cedar is used to make guitars.
 
Uses Of Cedar Tree Types
Each Cedar species has its own distinct features that serve a lot of purposes.
- Northern white cedar is used for building canoes and fences.
- Australian red cedar is most valuable of all cedar since it used in building ships.
Did not say if it was for life size ships or model ships.
- California incense cedar is used for making pencils.
- Eastern red cedar is also used for fence-building.
- Japanese cedar is used for building houses.
- Spanish cedar is used on clothing for its fragrance and insect repelling quality.
 
The oil is used for the following:
- It is used as an insect repellent.
- In ancient times, it was used to preserve dead bodies.
- It is used as incense in temples.
- It is used as aromatic oil, because its woody odor works as a sedative and effectively treats stress and anxiety in people.
- Due to its aroma, it is used as an ingredient in perfumes.
- It is used for preservation of spices.
- It is used as an antibacterial.
- Its health benefits include effectively treating respiratory infections.
- It is beneficial to hair, as it helps eliminate dandruff and protects the hair against hair fall and graying.
- It also effectively treats skin infections such as acne.
- It is also used in treating arthritis, especially rheumatoid.
- It is also used for its antiseptic property.
 
Thank you for reading.
Marc

There has got to be a better way to lay deck planking than contact cement!
- Brian   Maybe you should try the Hide Glue trick?   Jim

Also Mike, in my measuring and marking out where the cannons go, I see that the plans are smoking something good. There are no frames blocking the ports. The measurements on the plans don't add up. Though I'm worried about all the detail around cannon 1 between frame 1 and 2.

I'm prepared to do just that. However, my support seems to have dont the trick. I measured out where each canon goes and I see no where that any warping would cause a problem. At this point I don't see any warping but if I come across it I'll lay one some wood filler.

Know how many times I looked at that and never saw the ports?
 
I got lucky with this one. There's still a bit of a slope from center out one a couple places but not as bad as it was. Maybe 1.5 mm TOPS.
 
Now, Regarding the cannons on the plans. I want to know where each cannon goes so I can determine on the ship itself if any location of the deck needs adjusting for cannon.
 
Looking at the right side of the ship plans it looks like the bulwark planking is going to cover half the cannon port. Also the cannon to the left looks like the bulwark was notched out for the wheel.
 
The plans don't show where the rest of the bulk heads are either.

GreatGallions recommended this ship as being a good one to cut my teeth on rigging on. Niagara has a LOT more rigging from what I can see. Perhaps because it's a larger scale? Definitely appreciating the quality of the instructions and plans of a Model Expo ship.

I bought some 1.5"X.25"X24" strips of bass wood and insterted them as seen. They go almost all the way back to the keel.
 
Now, before I layed the false deck I used strips of wood kinda like battens and faring and it all looked good. I think the issue was that the deck was a little warped AND the bulk heads were off. Faring would not have picked up on that. I don't think:)
 
The rest of the board that the deck came from is a little warbly as well. I have that under weights.
 
This support seems to have helped a lot and make me feel better about mounting things to the deck later.
 
At this point, my concern is that a couple places are still too much of a bow from the keel to the outer deck. I'm prepared to use filler before planking but I thing I need only be concerned with a couple locations. Those being the locations of a couple cannons. Some would point down instead of a straight line.
 
Logical thing to me is to locate the cannons and see which ones need filler to raise them.
 
I'm having a hard time seeing where the cannon should go though.
 
A little sanding, a little Carpel Tunnel and I have a long way to go yet.

The frosting ...........

Good point Carl. Little sugar and I'd have frosted shredded mini sheets.
 
I was just thinking about doing that to the upper decks.

Definitely warped, but you have to be at the right angle to see it. There's only one spot I;m really worried about. I'm heading into the hobby store this afternoon to see what I can use to make blocks in between the bulk heads. Coulda, shoulda, woulda in the 1st place.
 
I thought about it but didn't want to make the hour round trip to the hobby shop. Shame on me!
 
I'm prepared to shim if needed.

I'm open to suggestions on how to get that deck to lay flatter. My idea is not working.
 
I think I should have soaked the deck in water and laid it out on a flat surface with weights. Teach me to be observant, huh?
 
It looks like the deck issue will be mostly hidden, but a close look will show the warping where the upper decks don't hide it.