NMBROOK

Forecastle update....

Turning to more fun stuff now....deck trim and fixtures....

Deck railing now added....also added the two small ports near the stern.

Beginning to add the deck railing.

Adding railing stanchions.  Getting each the exact same height being the promary challenge here.

By the way, Chuck....OUR Confederacy just ran away with BEST IN SHOW at this year's North Carolina Maritime Society's annual Boat Builders Show. Held this past weekend in Beaufort, NC.

Several milestones in every build are worthy of small celebrations. The final hull plank is one of those "Miller Time" moments.

Getting the complex geometric three color paint scheme within reason has been a major challenge. Not going to say how many times I ripped it off and started over. That's modeling, huh?

At this point, still working on launching a new build log for my Mayflower. Just figured out that the old Ship Modeler's Forum is still up and running. Until now, I thought it was the old same group with a new system.....confused here.
So the question is.....Are the members the same?..... or Is this an entirely different organization?

Keeping in mind that the Main Deck consisted only of a group of 2 x 4 mm. planks without any plywood underneath, it was necessary to have a support strip fixed onto the forward surface of Frame 11 for these planks.  

It was obvious from photos of the finished ship that the stern area required some significant bending of planks and this led me to insert two extra filler blocks per side between Frames 10 & 12. The type of timber used for filling was insignificant as long as it could be shaped. It was only when they were in place that the correct contouring could take place along with the severe bevelling on the frame edges. I took care to preserve the profile on the forward edge of each frame (the dark brown of the original frame edge can still be seen). This all had the effect of producing a fairly severe curvature at the stern. I was mindful that the stern shape would depend very much on how the frames are shaped.

 
The following photo shows what one builder (unknown) created and it well illustrates the severe stern curvature.
 

With a long strip of wood placed longitudinally down the hull side, the frames were checked for alignment. I was pleasantly surprised that neither packing or reduction was necessary along the frame edges.The top edge (beams) contour of the frames supporting the deck was checked and I found that all were good except for Frame 7 which although it been seated in correctly in the keel and the bottom edge seemed to fit the contour of the other frames, I still needed to shave off approx. 1.2 mm. from the top edge. It was essential that there was a continuous supporting surface presented by all the beams when laying the deck as this ship is the only one without the usual Euromodel laser-cut plywood decks on which planking occurs. In this ship, all the decks are simply made from 2 x 4 mm. walnut strips.
 
Nothing surprising so far.
 
The following diagram shows some of the detail that can be found in the typical Euromodel drawings. There is ample material here for the person who wants a taste of scratch building. What is clearly evident is the Gun Battery which extends the full length of the ship and the Quarter Deck which of course is only partly visible. Nothing unusual - sure. However, Euromodel has engineered small plywood pieces to insert for these decks where it is necessary to support gun carriages. A simplification for sure but it does make the building easier (but does not prevent the ardent enthusiast in putting them in). 

 
There are three laser-cut plywood pieces supplied:
 
2 x ’15’ used either side between Frames 9 & 10 to form part of the Battery Gun Deck
 
1 x ’15 bis’ used between Frames 10 & 11 to accomodate two Quarter Deck guns.
 
The Battery Deck pieces fitted tightly between the frames but the Quarter Deck piece was a loose fit and I had to use support strips underneath against Frame 11. Both pieces are shown in the photo.

 
 
 
 

Using the supplied drawing templates, two bow filler blocks were shaped from the 10 x 20 x 80 mm. block supplied.
 
I also inserted EXTRA filler blocks behind these (between Frames 3 & 4). Creating the curvature on these blocks then enabled me to continue the curvature over the original filler blocks forward of Frame 3.

Welcome back Bill!    
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello dear friends,
I feel so honored and pleased reading your posts. Thank you very much for you kind words and support, that is a great motivation for me and also a commitment to continue with my work as best as I can.
 
 Well, for me it is easier to make pins from two parts, cause I have no lathe or other suitable tools , that can facilitate the work. First I was a bit afraid of their strength, but it is O.K. After gluing into the plank the pins are very strong.
 
 
I am glad, you like it. In future I am going to make other videos "how to do" . I believe, this is a better than description using words.
 
 
 
Well dear friends, during this weekend I have decided to remake a grating on the bow, cause the first version did not match reality at all. I found a lot of perfect inspiration here at MSW, so I try to improved my model. Here are the pics from process:
 
This is a previous version (I have to say that I did not like it)...

 
And this is a sketch of how I wanted to do:

 
So I have started with disassembling, I use debonder and must be very careful and patient....




 
And here you can see left side almost finished:


 
Done:

I decided to add on the bow also the seats of ease, I found inspiration also here:

 








 
As my opinion the bow grating looks better now. I know that the bars should be embedded into slots, but at this stage of progress with many delicate details around it was very difficult to remake the grating and make it accurate.
 
Best regards,
Doris

As I mentioned earlier,these next few stages are really slow.I have fitted the deck beam shelves and planked the inside of the hull on the starboard side,including lining the gunports.The framework of the entry port is in place,but this will have the carvings added at a later date,probably when I fit the channels as they sit on the middle channel.I had to reverse engineer the gunports to ascertain the deck levels which involved a great deal of headscratching,but it did 'prove' my gunports were correct.The internal planking has had several coats of poly applied in preparation for treenailing.I am using Dafi's(thank you Dafi) idea for drilling the holes inside.I have glued a drill into the end of a bamboo skewer so I can poke it through the gunports to drill the holes on the opposite internal face.I have given it a try and it works great,but it ain't no Dremel so I may be at it some time
Kind Regards Nigel 

It is great to see more updates of your fabulous work Doris   Your build serves as a reminder to me just how far I still have to go with my Royal Caroline before she is anyway near completion  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I look forward to following along Pete This sounds very interesting and Derfflinger may be smaller but has many unusual features,not least the hull shape.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Oh yes, I can imagine it, Missouri is a majestic battleship. I wanted to try assemble some plastic ships from Tamiya, it was a good relaxation and something new and interesting for me. But I have to say, that sailing ships are at the first place for me.
 
And swimming with dolphins...? That was a wonderful experience, I love these beautiful and clever animals. But I would have one wish - swimming with the dolphins in the wild nature. I prefer freedom for animals.
 
Today I have finished other small handmade parts - cleats, pins and some details for rigging. Soon I am going to start with shrouds.



 




 
Have a great time and enjoy the pics.
Kind regards,
Doris

Actual pics of Royal Caroline:






 
The tackles are tied temporary and I am going to modify them later.
 
Enjoy the pics and have a great holidays.
 
Best regards,
Doris

Preparing the pendants and tackles:

Some of wooden blocks with weathering - I use Tamiya acrylic paint for this:


 

Well, this was already described at this thread, just have a look:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/854-royal-caroline-by-doris-card-1749-140/?p=162240
 
 
And what´s new on the model.....
I have just started with masts and rigging, I try to make all these things according to plans from Anatomy of RC and also follow books and other credible information to achieve more realistic result.
 
The bowsprit:
 




 
The ropes are handmade using the ropewalk. I use ropes by Corel or Amati...

Hello dear friends!

Thank you very much for your comments and kind words, I am pleased and appreciate your support a lot.

After a longer break I'm back and I will show you the continuation of my Royal Caroline scratch build.

In addition, some weeks ago I finished my second plastic battleship - USS Missouri in a scale 1:350 (Tamiya manufacturer). My previous model IJN Yamato is also finished. Here are both build logs and a video, where you can see finished Missouri.
 

 
http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=175&t=85794&start=15#p1623192
http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=175&t=83940&start=60#p1593304
 
I spent some time at the seaside in Turkey ( Mediterranean), this was a great relaxation and enjoyment for me and my husband.
Here are some pics from our stay:


http://modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=68385&start=960#p1620612
 
Best regards,
Doris
 
 

Thanks Frank,Vince,& Nigel. Well let`s see  - maybe the Nuestra Senora or Royal William  or the MS version of Vanguard  or Constructo Prince or............................
 
/Mark