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SawdustDave

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About SawdustDave

  • Birthday 01/22/1943

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  • Website URL
    http://www.davesmodelships.blogspot.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lumberton, NC
  • Interests
    My family, golfing with friends, woodworking (furniture), Texas Holdem' poker with friends; and ship modeling.

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  1. Thanks Michael and Mark. Rusty should know better than anyone, I owe it to Chuck to give this little project my best effort. Cheers
  2. OK, Let's take another shot at getting this one lifted off the launching pad..... First, I scrapped the entire first assembly, and re-cut the keel assembly using poplar. Taking extra care in cutting the frame slots this time, I used a file and sanding block to make each of the slots very snug so that the frames had to be forced into position.... much closer to being perfectly square to the keel. I then marked a long strip of stiff paper with the precise spacing of each slot along the keel. Then, after gluing all frames onto the keel, I used the marked strips of stiff paper on each side of the frames to adjust the spacing of the outer edge of each frame. This extra step gave me assurance that the frame spacing is precisely the same for port and starboard sides. In the photo below, I indexed the center frame with a black mark to make sure the paper strips were oriented properly. Seen below is a photo of how I cut the first set of frames.... leaving the top of each frame to be removed later. Note in the photo above how I completely removed the center of the new frames and then glued a stiff strip across the top. Each of the top strips have a dead center mark used for alignment. Finally, using the dead center markings on each frame strip, I have glued some old planking boards down the center and on each side. Now, with all the frames secured in their alignments, I am ready to begin fairing the frame edges.
  3. BACK TO SCRATCH! IT HAPPENS IN SCRATCH MODELING. I am learning that just about everything I did in the beginning was causing major issues with the planking stage. Too many mistakes to go in to at this point. Basically, I just needed to trash the whole thing and begin anew, rather than continue to fight this self made train wreck, creating a complete mess of what may be my final project. After two weeks, I'm hoping I can post a few shots sometime tomorrow. Dave
  4. Absolutely correct about the thickness Chuck. While I did narrow the first two strakes by only a 16th, I'm hoping to get it back as I work my way toward the middle strakes. Either way, the goal is to wind up with only ten strakes. If the use of poplar planks doesn't work out, I will take a 30 minute drive to my local hobby store and pick up a good supply of basswood and start all over. Wouldn't be the first time, right? Good to have you looking over my shoulder. Dave
  5. MINOR SETBACK...... After ripping several poplar planks to a width of 3/8" and 1/16" thickness.... attempted installing the first two strakes and discovered that, even after wetting and pre-bending them, the thickness and width would not allow me to achieve the bending and twisting required around the bow. Just couldn't get the edges to butt up between the keel and the first frame. Poplar is beautiful and great to work with, but doesn't like to be twisted and manipulated. So I removed those planks and re-cut them (thinner and narrower)..... Also.... there is a slight bow from bow to stern. Here's how I managed to achieve that bow. Clamping the wet planks flat with a slight bow in the middle, then using a hair dryer to set the shape....
  6. OMG! Rusty, I am so sorry to learn about your damaged Syren. I don't know what I would do if something like that happened to my own, which, as you recall, you and I were both honored to work with Chuck on this project as well as the Confederacy. But then, the plus side is, think about how much more skilled you are now.... and how much better she will be after your re-do. All makes for a good story for the grandkids..... right? Dave
  7. Always a pleasure to see Chuck bring his masterful touch to the development of another major creation. Just wishing I were a younger artist and could participate in this build. Working with Chuck really cranks up the creative juices in a modeler, for sure. Happy to take a front chair to follow this build, while I enjoy building his English Pinnace. Thanks Master Passaro, for allowing us mortals to follow along. Dave
  8. ASSEMBLING THE FRAMES...... Finally finished cutting out all the frames and about half way completed with fixing them to the keel assembly. Here's a few quick shots of the method I am using to square up each frame, beginning with the aft frames and working my way forward.... First, I simply glued a block to the side of this framing square to give me a reference point for aligning the centering mark along the middle of each frame. Then, I created this little 90 degree squaring jig to give me a perfect alignment of each frame while the wood glue sets up. Once the wood glue sets up, after re-checking for precise alignments, I add a couple of drops of CA to the joint to fix the frame. I plan to add a number of temporary strips to stabilize the entire assembly alignment once I begin planking the hull.
  9. You would think so Dan. Tried it first, then found that laying three or four parts out on my printer gave me the cleanest print. Actually, no problem placing the parts back into their home position with a strip of masking tape securing them from the back side. Thanks for your nice comment. Dave
  10. Guess I should explain my motives with regard to this build. Having made friends with hundreds of scale modelers in the area..... all being members of IPMS clubs (International Plastic Modelers Society), over the last three years, I have been attending large IPMS Conventions across the Carolina's, showing my ships at events where almost all of the participants are avid builders of plastic kits.... cars, planes, tanks, and really weird "Star Wars" stuff. Aside from the competition, these events offer an excellent opportunity to "convert" a few of these wonderfully talented scale modelers over to giving ship building a try. The problem being that the tall ship models, with thousands of hours build time, are quite intimidating to these folks who are accustomed to opening a kit on Monday and finishing it by Friday. So I really need to be able to show these modelers something a little less intimidating to get them started on their first ever wooden model..... A kit that can be build is a few weeks as opposed to a couple of years. I think this little kit would be perfect for that.
  11. Just talking about the kit, and the fact that that, once I have used it to create all the parts for my larger model, I will have no further use for it. I'm just saying, the kit would be great fun for someone to build. Actually, I just got a call from a friend who expressed interest in the kit. Sorry for the confusion Roger.
  12. Thank you Steve for providing a world class build log for this model. You are officially my “Go-to Guy”. Cheers
  13. Thanks Steve. The planks will likely be basswood which I will rip to scale according to the planking strips that came with the kit, BTW.... Once finished with re-sizing all of the kit parts, this kit will be for sale to the first interested modeler.
  14. As I have officially retired from building tall ships, with all the rigging of shrouds and tying ratlines, my choice to continue with my love for creating nautical modeling from scratch is Chuck's beautiful English Pinnace. As a long time friend and admirer of his amazing skills, I sincerely hope I am able to do his design justice. Opening the kit up and studying the beautifully laser cut parts sheets, and reading through his 25 page brilliantly illustrated instruction script was a real pleasure.... particularly after spending the last five years building the poorly crafted instructions provided for the Sovereign of The Seas, followed by the USS Constitution. Beginning with the complete re-scaling the parts is a fairly simple matter of punching out all of the laser cut parts and scanning them on my printer using the "resize" function set to 200% mode. Then carefully cutting out each of the parts and gluing them to the boards using white glue. Next, the tedious task of very carefully taking the individual parts to the band saw. Note the inner section of each frame is carefully removed except for the narrow strip left spanning the beam of each frame. That strip will be removed after the outer planking has been completed. Very slow process.... currently about half complete with cutting out the 24 frames and mounting them to the keel assembly. I'm sure I am in for a real treat, once again working with Mr. Passaro's thorough instructions. Welcome aboard mates.
  15. Glad to see you return in good health Patrick. Beautiful job on your Vic. Dave

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