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piratepete007

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About piratepete007

  • Birthday 05/09/1941

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Adelaide, South Australia
  • Interests
    model ship building
    restoring vintage telephones
    editing
    writing books

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  1. Send me a PM and let me know what metal parts are required for the RW. Pete
  2. The Royal William completed by both Vince and Mark T have been exceptional builds to follow but the stand-out is the perseverance, dedication and skill that each of these two builders displayed over quite a period of time. For me, it has been a wonderful opportunity to follow their work and to write, re-write, re-write... about this ship construction and I must thank them for the wonderful opportunities that they in turn gave me. Look forward to future builds from you two. Pete
  3. Maybe I can see a 'foot rope' being used ! Pete
  4. Hi Pat, Of course … had a mental block there for a moment but thanks for the correction of my thinking that all heel ropes were called 'heel ropes'. The term 'mast-ropes' is new to me so I will go back into my notes and make a few corrections. There is always something new to learn. I will download that pdf so thanks for that as well. Cheers, Pete
  5. I am building the Euromodel schooner, Lyde, which has a bowsprit + jibboom (but no flying-jib). At the jibboom heel, there is a sheave and as good as the drawings are, I cannot determine the function of the heel rope that would pass through it. Can anybody help me with an explanation ? Pete
  6. What would I do without you guys ? Thanks grsjax and Henry so much for tidying up those pieces of terminology. Pete
  7. Thanks so much grsjax and as a result I have now located that in one of my texts. Carrying on from your comment - and looking back at my diagram - the upper spar (coloured yellow) supporting this ringtail sail would be called the 'ringtail boom/ or gaff/ or yard' ? Pete
  8. Would really appreciate some assistance in naming the sail in the diagram partly shaded blue and partly hidden behind the main course sail on an English schooner of 1787 (Euromodel - Lyde). Pete
  9. Looking all 'ship shape' Max. Even at the first planking level, the look of the ship so far exudes quality and the execution of excellent skills. Pete
  10. Robert … send me a PM and I can assist you. Pete
  11. Would really appreciate some confirmation of this section of a fore course sail from a Continental ship (17C) drawing. I understand (I think) the function of the three bridles (and bowline) attached to the leech is to keep tight the windward or weather leech of the sail. However, the extra line below the bridles indicated by the large arrow is to add extra strength in keeping the course tight under tough weather conditions ???? Does this piece have a special term ? Pete
  12. Max, What a fantastic set of photos we are seeing in this post and they portray an individual who is not at all shy about showing his meticulous work to one and all. You are yet another builder who has discovered the intricacies of a delightfully challenging set of plans. Sure, they are very detailed but they are not prescriptive and anyone can build from the plans whether they wish to make a very basic model or create something a little more complex. They open your eyes to what can be done. Congratulations on what has been achieved so far. Pete
  13. Very, very impressive Vince. Its not often we see the sails added including the stay sails.
  14. Mark - I agree with you whole heartedly re the minimal painting which in a way would present more of an authentic weathered look. Maybe, a mass of colour over the full hull could be a bit of a shock ! Mike - do I assume that the 'Age-It EASY' is a water-based material and not oily ? Looks like a good move to use that stain. Pete
  15. Max, As regards the transom, most builders go for the flat transom rather than create a curvature and why not, its your build ? In my build, after soaking the supplied plywood in water for some time, screwing it down onto a prepared curved surface and then drying in a warm oven, I was able to surprise myself with a very useful curved surface for the transom. What I thought was an impossibility proved to be the opposite and again demonstrating each Euromodel kit is a surprising collection of little gems. As regards the placement of the last gun between frames 8 & 9, your solution was my solution. Others have removed part of the frame to accommodate the full gun but that seems a pointless exercise as it will all be hidden. The bottom line is that the Euromodel drawings are incredibly detailed and you need to add or subtract what you want and just remember that this is not a true kit where the outcome is totally predictable and the end result the same as every one elses. It will, in many respects, be your interpretation creating your very own design. Regards, Pete

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