Cathead

The hull is developing nicely. I had a close shave with my floors, having estimated the required pieces too close for comfort, and not being sure until the very end that I'd have enough. Phew!
 
All the vertical frames are assembled and in place, attached with stringers. As the futtocks at bow and stern are angled, I plan to install them one at a time, to fit. Thus I'm now working to bend and attach an interior stringer at the deck line, to which I can measure & attach each futtock. For example, here's the bow:
 

 
I soaked these two long pieces in a cookie tray of boiling water, then bent them around a jury-rigged frame to the correct curve. Once they're dry, I'll glue them in place and have a solid reference point for the rest of the futtocks. Note the gentle sheer leading up to the stem. Here's the stern:
 

 
It's a bit simpler here. The stern is squared off, with a simple curve leading up to the deck. I cut out appropriate molds on my bandsaw, then glued them into an appropriate arrangement for bending the internal stringers. Like the bow, I soaked these in boiling water before bending them into place. As shown, they represent the actual shape of the stern (upside down) quite well. Once these are in place, I'll connect them to the existing stringers in the rest of the hull. Note that the last 8 futtocks are extra-long; this is because the stem also has a rising sheer, beginning there, so I cut those pieces longer to allow for trimming to the exact length once a final stringer is installed.
 
Other notes: while I could have installed all the internal stringers as one long piece, my internal perfectionist got the better of me and I instead cut them into regular, scarf-jointed planks (the actual builders wouldn't have had planks over 100' long!). These joints don't show up in the overexposed photo 1, but they're there. Also, the keelson will need to be built up with several layers of planking, but I won't do that until later.
 
Coming up next, I'll build the stern and connect the deck-level stringer all the way around, and start the tedious job of custom-cutting and -fitting the ~100 futtocks needed to complete the hull framing.
 
This has been great fun so far, and while I'm not particularly looking forward to all the fussy cant frames coming up, I love the geometry of open full framing. A voice in my mind is suggesting that I change course dramatically and build this simply as an open-hull model, with no superstructure at all, perhaps with the deck half-planked at most. What think you all?
 

The hull is developing nicely. I had a close shave with my floors, having estimated the required pieces too close for comfort, and not being sure until the very end that I'd have enough. Phew!
 
All the vertical frames are assembled and in place, attached with stringers. As the futtocks at bow and stern are angled, I plan to install them one at a time, to fit. Thus I'm now working to bend and attach an interior stringer at the deck line, to which I can measure & attach each futtock. For example, here's the bow:
 

 
I soaked these two long pieces in a cookie tray of boiling water, then bent them around a jury-rigged frame to the correct curve. Once they're dry, I'll glue them in place and have a solid reference point for the rest of the futtocks. Note the gentle sheer leading up to the stem. Here's the stern:
 

 
It's a bit simpler here. The stern is squared off, with a simple curve leading up to the deck. I cut out appropriate molds on my bandsaw, then glued them into an appropriate arrangement for bending the internal stringers. Like the bow, I soaked these in boiling water before bending them into place. As shown, they represent the actual shape of the stern (upside down) quite well. Once these are in place, I'll connect them to the existing stringers in the rest of the hull. Note that the last 8 futtocks are extra-long; this is because the stem also has a rising sheer, beginning there, so I cut those pieces longer to allow for trimming to the exact length once a final stringer is installed.
 
Other notes: while I could have installed all the internal stringers as one long piece, my internal perfectionist got the better of me and I instead cut them into regular, scarf-jointed planks (the actual builders wouldn't have had planks over 100' long!). These joints don't show up in the overexposed photo 1, but they're there. Also, the keelson will need to be built up with several layers of planking, but I won't do that until later.
 
Coming up next, I'll build the stern and connect the deck-level stringer all the way around, and start the tedious job of custom-cutting and -fitting the ~100 futtocks needed to complete the hull framing.
 
This has been great fun so far, and while I'm not particularly looking forward to all the fussy cant frames coming up, I love the geometry of open full framing. A voice in my mind is suggesting that I change course dramatically and build this simply as an open-hull model, with no superstructure at all, perhaps with the deck half-planked at most. What think you all?
 

The hull is developing nicely. I had a close shave with my floors, having estimated the required pieces too close for comfort, and not being sure until the very end that I'd have enough. Phew!
 
All the vertical frames are assembled and in place, attached with stringers. As the futtocks at bow and stern are angled, I plan to install them one at a time, to fit. Thus I'm now working to bend and attach an interior stringer at the deck line, to which I can measure & attach each futtock. For example, here's the bow:
 

 
I soaked these two long pieces in a cookie tray of boiling water, then bent them around a jury-rigged frame to the correct curve. Once they're dry, I'll glue them in place and have a solid reference point for the rest of the futtocks. Note the gentle sheer leading up to the stem. Here's the stern:
 

 
It's a bit simpler here. The stern is squared off, with a simple curve leading up to the deck. I cut out appropriate molds on my bandsaw, then glued them into an appropriate arrangement for bending the internal stringers. Like the bow, I soaked these in boiling water before bending them into place. As shown, they represent the actual shape of the stern (upside down) quite well. Once these are in place, I'll connect them to the existing stringers in the rest of the hull. Note that the last 8 futtocks are extra-long; this is because the stem also has a rising sheer, beginning there, so I cut those pieces longer to allow for trimming to the exact length once a final stringer is installed.
 
Other notes: while I could have installed all the internal stringers as one long piece, my internal perfectionist got the better of me and I instead cut them into regular, scarf-jointed planks (the actual builders wouldn't have had planks over 100' long!). These joints don't show up in the overexposed photo 1, but they're there. Also, the keelson will need to be built up with several layers of planking, but I won't do that until later.
 
Coming up next, I'll build the stern and connect the deck-level stringer all the way around, and start the tedious job of custom-cutting and -fitting the ~100 futtocks needed to complete the hull framing.
 
This has been great fun so far, and while I'm not particularly looking forward to all the fussy cant frames coming up, I love the geometry of open full framing. A voice in my mind is suggesting that I change course dramatically and build this simply as an open-hull model, with no superstructure at all, perhaps with the deck half-planked at most. What think you all?
 

The hull is developing nicely. I had a close shave with my floors, having estimated the required pieces too close for comfort, and not being sure until the very end that I'd have enough. Phew!
 
All the vertical frames are assembled and in place, attached with stringers. As the futtocks at bow and stern are angled, I plan to install them one at a time, to fit. Thus I'm now working to bend and attach an interior stringer at the deck line, to which I can measure & attach each futtock. For example, here's the bow:
 

 
I soaked these two long pieces in a cookie tray of boiling water, then bent them around a jury-rigged frame to the correct curve. Once they're dry, I'll glue them in place and have a solid reference point for the rest of the futtocks. Note the gentle sheer leading up to the stem. Here's the stern:
 

 
It's a bit simpler here. The stern is squared off, with a simple curve leading up to the deck. I cut out appropriate molds on my bandsaw, then glued them into an appropriate arrangement for bending the internal stringers. Like the bow, I soaked these in boiling water before bending them into place. As shown, they represent the actual shape of the stern (upside down) quite well. Once these are in place, I'll connect them to the existing stringers in the rest of the hull. Note that the last 8 futtocks are extra-long; this is because the stem also has a rising sheer, beginning there, so I cut those pieces longer to allow for trimming to the exact length once a final stringer is installed.
 
Other notes: while I could have installed all the internal stringers as one long piece, my internal perfectionist got the better of me and I instead cut them into regular, scarf-jointed planks (the actual builders wouldn't have had planks over 100' long!). These joints don't show up in the overexposed photo 1, but they're there. Also, the keelson will need to be built up with several layers of planking, but I won't do that until later.
 
Coming up next, I'll build the stern and connect the deck-level stringer all the way around, and start the tedious job of custom-cutting and -fitting the ~100 futtocks needed to complete the hull framing.
 
This has been great fun so far, and while I'm not particularly looking forward to all the fussy cant frames coming up, I love the geometry of open full framing. A voice in my mind is suggesting that I change course dramatically and build this simply as an open-hull model, with no superstructure at all, perhaps with the deck half-planked at most. What think you all?
 

The hull is developing nicely. I had a close shave with my floors, having estimated the required pieces too close for comfort, and not being sure until the very end that I'd have enough. Phew!
 
All the vertical frames are assembled and in place, attached with stringers. As the futtocks at bow and stern are angled, I plan to install them one at a time, to fit. Thus I'm now working to bend and attach an interior stringer at the deck line, to which I can measure & attach each futtock. For example, here's the bow:
 

 
I soaked these two long pieces in a cookie tray of boiling water, then bent them around a jury-rigged frame to the correct curve. Once they're dry, I'll glue them in place and have a solid reference point for the rest of the futtocks. Note the gentle sheer leading up to the stem. Here's the stern:
 

 
It's a bit simpler here. The stern is squared off, with a simple curve leading up to the deck. I cut out appropriate molds on my bandsaw, then glued them into an appropriate arrangement for bending the internal stringers. Like the bow, I soaked these in boiling water before bending them into place. As shown, they represent the actual shape of the stern (upside down) quite well. Once these are in place, I'll connect them to the existing stringers in the rest of the hull. Note that the last 8 futtocks are extra-long; this is because the stem also has a rising sheer, beginning there, so I cut those pieces longer to allow for trimming to the exact length once a final stringer is installed.
 
Other notes: while I could have installed all the internal stringers as one long piece, my internal perfectionist got the better of me and I instead cut them into regular, scarf-jointed planks (the actual builders wouldn't have had planks over 100' long!). These joints don't show up in the overexposed photo 1, but they're there. Also, the keelson will need to be built up with several layers of planking, but I won't do that until later.
 
Coming up next, I'll build the stern and connect the deck-level stringer all the way around, and start the tedious job of custom-cutting and -fitting the ~100 futtocks needed to complete the hull framing.
 
This has been great fun so far, and while I'm not particularly looking forward to all the fussy cant frames coming up, I love the geometry of open full framing. A voice in my mind is suggesting that I change course dramatically and build this simply as an open-hull model, with no superstructure at all, perhaps with the deck half-planked at most. What think you all?
 

The Bertrand, version 2.0, is underway!
 

 
Above, you see a set of mid-hull frames assembled and laid out at the prototype spacing of about 15 scale inches. Astute observers may notice something different from earlier in this log: these frames are built at a 90 degree angle (floor to futtock), not canted outward. The more I compared my purchased plans to the original archeological drawings now in my possession, the more blatant errors I found. I've now pretty much abandoned those first plans and spent some time scanning and resizing the new drawings to 1:87 scale and hitting the reset button on pretty much everything involved with this project. Hence the delay in updating this log, along with a busy few weeks in real life. 
 
According to the actual archeological notes (from here on referred to as the Petsche plans after the leader of the excavation team), Bertrand very definitely had squared-off mid-hull frames, with angles only occurring at stem and stern. In other words, this plan view and the frames I built from it were totally wrong:
 

 
So I designed a new set of frame molds and have been busy mass-producing frames:
 

 
I do these eight at a time, pre-cutting the floors and futtocks on my trusty cutter (upper left), then assembling them around the wooden molds seen at right. These are pinned to a piece of foam board, holding everything in place. I pin a floor in place, dip each futtock in wood glue, then fit it in place along the side of the form, using another pin on each side. Then I use the cutter to create the tiny angle braces, smear some more glue across the joint, and use tweezers to install each angle brace on top. Below is a detail of several of these assemblies:
 

 
When these are dry, I use the cutter to lop a small 45 degree angle off each bilge corner, where a bilge plank will go. These areas were not rounded as on a sea-going vessel, but angular, which made construction much easier for the craftsmen assembling these boats in the American wilderness of the upper Ohio River. Note that the molds have a 45 degree angle cut out at the turn of the bilge. This is so I can glue the bilge together without anything sticking to the mold. The remainder of the frame is sufficient to hold the pieces at a proper 90 degree angle. Anything that sticks to the foam board is popped off with a flat knife blade and sanded smooth.
 
Here's an overhead view of my hull setup:
 

 
A copy of the inner hull plan is attached to the build board with double-sided tape. Several layers of wooden strips line both sides of the hull to provide consistent support for the frames (also attached with tape). The plans then have four thin strips of double-sided tape run on top, to hold the frames in place during assembly. I use wooden spacers to support each frame, keeping it at the proper distance from its neighbors and properly vertical. In these photos, I've removed some spacers temporarily so you can see more detail. I've used tape for everything to allow adjustment is necessary, and it works great. This jig was very much inspired by the Cairo build suggested earlier in this log (thanks, Ken!)
 
As each batch of 8 frames is ready, I add them to the hull jig. It takes 15-20 minutes to build 8 frames, then a few hours for the glue to dry. I basically do a batch any evening I have a short stretch of time to spare, and slowly but surely work my way toward the daunting total quantity needed. This means I don't get overwhelmed trying to do them all at once, or keep count. 
 
Once I reach the beginning of stem and stern curves, I will have to build the frames custom-in-place, but as the standard square frames make up much of the boat's total length, this will be manageable.When all the standard frames are done, I'll start installing the keelson and other stringers to hold the structure firmly together, then proceed on the more complex ends.
 
So that's where the Bertrand stands this weekend. I will do another update when these square frames are completed and I've started in on the interesting challenge of stem & stern. Hopefully the wait won't be as long this time!
 

Jim,
 
Indeed I feel fortunate, though as you'll discover later on, the fortune only lasts so far. None of Bertrand's superstructure was present by the time of excavation, so while the hull was thoroughly documented, everything above the main deck is based on conjecture and extrapolation. I'll delve into that when we get there.
 
My original plan was just as you say, to leave one half of the hull unplanked. However, when I realized just how close the frames would be (unlike my first set of plans), I became worried that you wouldn't be able to see in enough, and so started considering other options like holes in the hull or a removable main deck. I have been considering and experimenting with different approaches on the side, and will discuss that more, later as well.

Jim,
 
Indeed I feel fortunate, though as you'll discover later on, the fortune only lasts so far. None of Bertrand's superstructure was present by the time of excavation, so while the hull was thoroughly documented, everything above the main deck is based on conjecture and extrapolation. I'll delve into that when we get there.
 
My original plan was just as you say, to leave one half of the hull unplanked. However, when I realized just how close the frames would be (unlike my first set of plans), I became worried that you wouldn't be able to see in enough, and so started considering other options like holes in the hull or a removable main deck. I have been considering and experimenting with different approaches on the side, and will discuss that more, later as well.

Absolutely brilliant that you were able to find such a detailed set of plans for your proposed build - if only that sort of information was always available.
 
As for the interior view - have you thought of simply leaving one half of the model entirely in frame?
 
John

Great catch on the plan profile. And a nice start on your build.

The Bertrand, version 2.0, is underway!
 

 
Above, you see a set of mid-hull frames assembled and laid out at the prototype spacing of about 15 scale inches. Astute observers may notice something different from earlier in this log: these frames are built at a 90 degree angle (floor to futtock), not canted outward. The more I compared my purchased plans to the original archeological drawings now in my possession, the more blatant errors I found. I've now pretty much abandoned those first plans and spent some time scanning and resizing the new drawings to 1:87 scale and hitting the reset button on pretty much everything involved with this project. Hence the delay in updating this log, along with a busy few weeks in real life. 
 
According to the actual archeological notes (from here on referred to as the Petsche plans after the leader of the excavation team), Bertrand very definitely had squared-off mid-hull frames, with angles only occurring at stem and stern. In other words, this plan view and the frames I built from it were totally wrong:
 

 
So I designed a new set of frame molds and have been busy mass-producing frames:
 

 
I do these eight at a time, pre-cutting the floors and futtocks on my trusty cutter (upper left), then assembling them around the wooden molds seen at right. These are pinned to a piece of foam board, holding everything in place. I pin a floor in place, dip each futtock in wood glue, then fit it in place along the side of the form, using another pin on each side. Then I use the cutter to create the tiny angle braces, smear some more glue across the joint, and use tweezers to install each angle brace on top. Below is a detail of several of these assemblies:
 

 
When these are dry, I use the cutter to lop a small 45 degree angle off each bilge corner, where a bilge plank will go. These areas were not rounded as on a sea-going vessel, but angular, which made construction much easier for the craftsmen assembling these boats in the American wilderness of the upper Ohio River. Note that the molds have a 45 degree angle cut out at the turn of the bilge. This is so I can glue the bilge together without anything sticking to the mold. The remainder of the frame is sufficient to hold the pieces at a proper 90 degree angle. Anything that sticks to the foam board is popped off with a flat knife blade and sanded smooth.
 
Here's an overhead view of my hull setup:
 

 
A copy of the inner hull plan is attached to the build board with double-sided tape. Several layers of wooden strips line both sides of the hull to provide consistent support for the frames (also attached with tape). The plans then have four thin strips of double-sided tape run on top, to hold the frames in place during assembly. I use wooden spacers to support each frame, keeping it at the proper distance from its neighbors and properly vertical. In these photos, I've removed some spacers temporarily so you can see more detail. I've used tape for everything to allow adjustment is necessary, and it works great. This jig was very much inspired by the Cairo build suggested earlier in this log (thanks, Ken!)
 
As each batch of 8 frames is ready, I add them to the hull jig. It takes 15-20 minutes to build 8 frames, then a few hours for the glue to dry. I basically do a batch any evening I have a short stretch of time to spare, and slowly but surely work my way toward the daunting total quantity needed. This means I don't get overwhelmed trying to do them all at once, or keep count. 
 
Once I reach the beginning of stem and stern curves, I will have to build the frames custom-in-place, but as the standard square frames make up much of the boat's total length, this will be manageable.When all the standard frames are done, I'll start installing the keelson and other stringers to hold the structure firmly together, then proceed on the more complex ends.
 
So that's where the Bertrand stands this weekend. I will do another update when these square frames are completed and I've started in on the interesting challenge of stem & stern. Hopefully the wait won't be as long this time!
 

The Bertrand, version 2.0, is underway!
 

 
Above, you see a set of mid-hull frames assembled and laid out at the prototype spacing of about 15 scale inches. Astute observers may notice something different from earlier in this log: these frames are built at a 90 degree angle (floor to futtock), not canted outward. The more I compared my purchased plans to the original archeological drawings now in my possession, the more blatant errors I found. I've now pretty much abandoned those first plans and spent some time scanning and resizing the new drawings to 1:87 scale and hitting the reset button on pretty much everything involved with this project. Hence the delay in updating this log, along with a busy few weeks in real life. 
 
According to the actual archeological notes (from here on referred to as the Petsche plans after the leader of the excavation team), Bertrand very definitely had squared-off mid-hull frames, with angles only occurring at stem and stern. In other words, this plan view and the frames I built from it were totally wrong:
 

 
So I designed a new set of frame molds and have been busy mass-producing frames:
 

 
I do these eight at a time, pre-cutting the floors and futtocks on my trusty cutter (upper left), then assembling them around the wooden molds seen at right. These are pinned to a piece of foam board, holding everything in place. I pin a floor in place, dip each futtock in wood glue, then fit it in place along the side of the form, using another pin on each side. Then I use the cutter to create the tiny angle braces, smear some more glue across the joint, and use tweezers to install each angle brace on top. Below is a detail of several of these assemblies:
 

 
When these are dry, I use the cutter to lop a small 45 degree angle off each bilge corner, where a bilge plank will go. These areas were not rounded as on a sea-going vessel, but angular, which made construction much easier for the craftsmen assembling these boats in the American wilderness of the upper Ohio River. Note that the molds have a 45 degree angle cut out at the turn of the bilge. This is so I can glue the bilge together without anything sticking to the mold. The remainder of the frame is sufficient to hold the pieces at a proper 90 degree angle. Anything that sticks to the foam board is popped off with a flat knife blade and sanded smooth.
 
Here's an overhead view of my hull setup:
 

 
A copy of the inner hull plan is attached to the build board with double-sided tape. Several layers of wooden strips line both sides of the hull to provide consistent support for the frames (also attached with tape). The plans then have four thin strips of double-sided tape run on top, to hold the frames in place during assembly. I use wooden spacers to support each frame, keeping it at the proper distance from its neighbors and properly vertical. In these photos, I've removed some spacers temporarily so you can see more detail. I've used tape for everything to allow adjustment is necessary, and it works great. This jig was very much inspired by the Cairo build suggested earlier in this log (thanks, Ken!)
 
As each batch of 8 frames is ready, I add them to the hull jig. It takes 15-20 minutes to build 8 frames, then a few hours for the glue to dry. I basically do a batch any evening I have a short stretch of time to spare, and slowly but surely work my way toward the daunting total quantity needed. This means I don't get overwhelmed trying to do them all at once, or keep count. 
 
Once I reach the beginning of stem and stern curves, I will have to build the frames custom-in-place, but as the standard square frames make up much of the boat's total length, this will be manageable.When all the standard frames are done, I'll start installing the keelson and other stringers to hold the structure firmly together, then proceed on the more complex ends.
 
So that's where the Bertrand stands this weekend. I will do another update when these square frames are completed and I've started in on the interesting challenge of stem & stern. Hopefully the wait won't be as long this time!
 

The Bertrand, version 2.0, is underway!
 

 
Above, you see a set of mid-hull frames assembled and laid out at the prototype spacing of about 15 scale inches. Astute observers may notice something different from earlier in this log: these frames are built at a 90 degree angle (floor to futtock), not canted outward. The more I compared my purchased plans to the original archeological drawings now in my possession, the more blatant errors I found. I've now pretty much abandoned those first plans and spent some time scanning and resizing the new drawings to 1:87 scale and hitting the reset button on pretty much everything involved with this project. Hence the delay in updating this log, along with a busy few weeks in real life. 
 
According to the actual archeological notes (from here on referred to as the Petsche plans after the leader of the excavation team), Bertrand very definitely had squared-off mid-hull frames, with angles only occurring at stem and stern. In other words, this plan view and the frames I built from it were totally wrong:
 

 
So I designed a new set of frame molds and have been busy mass-producing frames:
 

 
I do these eight at a time, pre-cutting the floors and futtocks on my trusty cutter (upper left), then assembling them around the wooden molds seen at right. These are pinned to a piece of foam board, holding everything in place. I pin a floor in place, dip each futtock in wood glue, then fit it in place along the side of the form, using another pin on each side. Then I use the cutter to create the tiny angle braces, smear some more glue across the joint, and use tweezers to install each angle brace on top. Below is a detail of several of these assemblies:
 

 
When these are dry, I use the cutter to lop a small 45 degree angle off each bilge corner, where a bilge plank will go. These areas were not rounded as on a sea-going vessel, but angular, which made construction much easier for the craftsmen assembling these boats in the American wilderness of the upper Ohio River. Note that the molds have a 45 degree angle cut out at the turn of the bilge. This is so I can glue the bilge together without anything sticking to the mold. The remainder of the frame is sufficient to hold the pieces at a proper 90 degree angle. Anything that sticks to the foam board is popped off with a flat knife blade and sanded smooth.
 
Here's an overhead view of my hull setup:
 

 
A copy of the inner hull plan is attached to the build board with double-sided tape. Several layers of wooden strips line both sides of the hull to provide consistent support for the frames (also attached with tape). The plans then have four thin strips of double-sided tape run on top, to hold the frames in place during assembly. I use wooden spacers to support each frame, keeping it at the proper distance from its neighbors and properly vertical. In these photos, I've removed some spacers temporarily so you can see more detail. I've used tape for everything to allow adjustment is necessary, and it works great. This jig was very much inspired by the Cairo build suggested earlier in this log (thanks, Ken!)
 
As each batch of 8 frames is ready, I add them to the hull jig. It takes 15-20 minutes to build 8 frames, then a few hours for the glue to dry. I basically do a batch any evening I have a short stretch of time to spare, and slowly but surely work my way toward the daunting total quantity needed. This means I don't get overwhelmed trying to do them all at once, or keep count. 
 
Once I reach the beginning of stem and stern curves, I will have to build the frames custom-in-place, but as the standard square frames make up much of the boat's total length, this will be manageable.When all the standard frames are done, I'll start installing the keelson and other stringers to hold the structure firmly together, then proceed on the more complex ends.
 
So that's where the Bertrand stands this weekend. I will do another update when these square frames are completed and I've started in on the interesting challenge of stem & stern. Hopefully the wait won't be as long this time!
 

The Bertrand, version 2.0, is underway!
 

 
Above, you see a set of mid-hull frames assembled and laid out at the prototype spacing of about 15 scale inches. Astute observers may notice something different from earlier in this log: these frames are built at a 90 degree angle (floor to futtock), not canted outward. The more I compared my purchased plans to the original archeological drawings now in my possession, the more blatant errors I found. I've now pretty much abandoned those first plans and spent some time scanning and resizing the new drawings to 1:87 scale and hitting the reset button on pretty much everything involved with this project. Hence the delay in updating this log, along with a busy few weeks in real life. 
 
According to the actual archeological notes (from here on referred to as the Petsche plans after the leader of the excavation team), Bertrand very definitely had squared-off mid-hull frames, with angles only occurring at stem and stern. In other words, this plan view and the frames I built from it were totally wrong:
 

 
So I designed a new set of frame molds and have been busy mass-producing frames:
 

 
I do these eight at a time, pre-cutting the floors and futtocks on my trusty cutter (upper left), then assembling them around the wooden molds seen at right. These are pinned to a piece of foam board, holding everything in place. I pin a floor in place, dip each futtock in wood glue, then fit it in place along the side of the form, using another pin on each side. Then I use the cutter to create the tiny angle braces, smear some more glue across the joint, and use tweezers to install each angle brace on top. Below is a detail of several of these assemblies:
 

 
When these are dry, I use the cutter to lop a small 45 degree angle off each bilge corner, where a bilge plank will go. These areas were not rounded as on a sea-going vessel, but angular, which made construction much easier for the craftsmen assembling these boats in the American wilderness of the upper Ohio River. Note that the molds have a 45 degree angle cut out at the turn of the bilge. This is so I can glue the bilge together without anything sticking to the mold. The remainder of the frame is sufficient to hold the pieces at a proper 90 degree angle. Anything that sticks to the foam board is popped off with a flat knife blade and sanded smooth.
 
Here's an overhead view of my hull setup:
 

 
A copy of the inner hull plan is attached to the build board with double-sided tape. Several layers of wooden strips line both sides of the hull to provide consistent support for the frames (also attached with tape). The plans then have four thin strips of double-sided tape run on top, to hold the frames in place during assembly. I use wooden spacers to support each frame, keeping it at the proper distance from its neighbors and properly vertical. In these photos, I've removed some spacers temporarily so you can see more detail. I've used tape for everything to allow adjustment is necessary, and it works great. This jig was very much inspired by the Cairo build suggested earlier in this log (thanks, Ken!)
 
As each batch of 8 frames is ready, I add them to the hull jig. It takes 15-20 minutes to build 8 frames, then a few hours for the glue to dry. I basically do a batch any evening I have a short stretch of time to spare, and slowly but surely work my way toward the daunting total quantity needed. This means I don't get overwhelmed trying to do them all at once, or keep count. 
 
Once I reach the beginning of stem and stern curves, I will have to build the frames custom-in-place, but as the standard square frames make up much of the boat's total length, this will be manageable.When all the standard frames are done, I'll start installing the keelson and other stringers to hold the structure firmly together, then proceed on the more complex ends.
 
So that's where the Bertrand stands this weekend. I will do another update when these square frames are completed and I've started in on the interesting challenge of stem & stern. Hopefully the wait won't be as long this time!
 

Well, John, that's pretty much what I proposed by making my building board (see quote above), except I thought that parallel dados in the board would hold the frames more consistently than lots of spacer blocks. Am I missing something?

The Bertrand, version 2.0, is underway!
 

 
Above, you see a set of mid-hull frames assembled and laid out at the prototype spacing of about 15 scale inches. Astute observers may notice something different from earlier in this log: these frames are built at a 90 degree angle (floor to futtock), not canted outward. The more I compared my purchased plans to the original archeological drawings now in my possession, the more blatant errors I found. I've now pretty much abandoned those first plans and spent some time scanning and resizing the new drawings to 1:87 scale and hitting the reset button on pretty much everything involved with this project. Hence the delay in updating this log, along with a busy few weeks in real life. 
 
According to the actual archeological notes (from here on referred to as the Petsche plans after the leader of the excavation team), Bertrand very definitely had squared-off mid-hull frames, with angles only occurring at stem and stern. In other words, this plan view and the frames I built from it were totally wrong:
 

 
So I designed a new set of frame molds and have been busy mass-producing frames:
 

 
I do these eight at a time, pre-cutting the floors and futtocks on my trusty cutter (upper left), then assembling them around the wooden molds seen at right. These are pinned to a piece of foam board, holding everything in place. I pin a floor in place, dip each futtock in wood glue, then fit it in place along the side of the form, using another pin on each side. Then I use the cutter to create the tiny angle braces, smear some more glue across the joint, and use tweezers to install each angle brace on top. Below is a detail of several of these assemblies:
 

 
When these are dry, I use the cutter to lop a small 45 degree angle off each bilge corner, where a bilge plank will go. These areas were not rounded as on a sea-going vessel, but angular, which made construction much easier for the craftsmen assembling these boats in the American wilderness of the upper Ohio River. Note that the molds have a 45 degree angle cut out at the turn of the bilge. This is so I can glue the bilge together without anything sticking to the mold. The remainder of the frame is sufficient to hold the pieces at a proper 90 degree angle. Anything that sticks to the foam board is popped off with a flat knife blade and sanded smooth.
 
Here's an overhead view of my hull setup:
 

 
A copy of the inner hull plan is attached to the build board with double-sided tape. Several layers of wooden strips line both sides of the hull to provide consistent support for the frames (also attached with tape). The plans then have four thin strips of double-sided tape run on top, to hold the frames in place during assembly. I use wooden spacers to support each frame, keeping it at the proper distance from its neighbors and properly vertical. In these photos, I've removed some spacers temporarily so you can see more detail. I've used tape for everything to allow adjustment is necessary, and it works great. This jig was very much inspired by the Cairo build suggested earlier in this log (thanks, Ken!)
 
As each batch of 8 frames is ready, I add them to the hull jig. It takes 15-20 minutes to build 8 frames, then a few hours for the glue to dry. I basically do a batch any evening I have a short stretch of time to spare, and slowly but surely work my way toward the daunting total quantity needed. This means I don't get overwhelmed trying to do them all at once, or keep count. 
 
Once I reach the beginning of stem and stern curves, I will have to build the frames custom-in-place, but as the standard square frames make up much of the boat's total length, this will be manageable.When all the standard frames are done, I'll start installing the keelson and other stringers to hold the structure firmly together, then proceed on the more complex ends.
 
So that's where the Bertrand stands this weekend. I will do another update when these square frames are completed and I've started in on the interesting challenge of stem & stern. Hopefully the wait won't be as long this time!
 

The Bertrand, version 2.0, is underway!
 

 
Above, you see a set of mid-hull frames assembled and laid out at the prototype spacing of about 15 scale inches. Astute observers may notice something different from earlier in this log: these frames are built at a 90 degree angle (floor to futtock), not canted outward. The more I compared my purchased plans to the original archeological drawings now in my possession, the more blatant errors I found. I've now pretty much abandoned those first plans and spent some time scanning and resizing the new drawings to 1:87 scale and hitting the reset button on pretty much everything involved with this project. Hence the delay in updating this log, along with a busy few weeks in real life. 
 
According to the actual archeological notes (from here on referred to as the Petsche plans after the leader of the excavation team), Bertrand very definitely had squared-off mid-hull frames, with angles only occurring at stem and stern. In other words, this plan view and the frames I built from it were totally wrong:
 

 
So I designed a new set of frame molds and have been busy mass-producing frames:
 

 
I do these eight at a time, pre-cutting the floors and futtocks on my trusty cutter (upper left), then assembling them around the wooden molds seen at right. These are pinned to a piece of foam board, holding everything in place. I pin a floor in place, dip each futtock in wood glue, then fit it in place along the side of the form, using another pin on each side. Then I use the cutter to create the tiny angle braces, smear some more glue across the joint, and use tweezers to install each angle brace on top. Below is a detail of several of these assemblies:
 

 
When these are dry, I use the cutter to lop a small 45 degree angle off each bilge corner, where a bilge plank will go. These areas were not rounded as on a sea-going vessel, but angular, which made construction much easier for the craftsmen assembling these boats in the American wilderness of the upper Ohio River. Note that the molds have a 45 degree angle cut out at the turn of the bilge. This is so I can glue the bilge together without anything sticking to the mold. The remainder of the frame is sufficient to hold the pieces at a proper 90 degree angle. Anything that sticks to the foam board is popped off with a flat knife blade and sanded smooth.
 
Here's an overhead view of my hull setup:
 

 
A copy of the inner hull plan is attached to the build board with double-sided tape. Several layers of wooden strips line both sides of the hull to provide consistent support for the frames (also attached with tape). The plans then have four thin strips of double-sided tape run on top, to hold the frames in place during assembly. I use wooden spacers to support each frame, keeping it at the proper distance from its neighbors and properly vertical. In these photos, I've removed some spacers temporarily so you can see more detail. I've used tape for everything to allow adjustment is necessary, and it works great. This jig was very much inspired by the Cairo build suggested earlier in this log (thanks, Ken!)
 
As each batch of 8 frames is ready, I add them to the hull jig. It takes 15-20 minutes to build 8 frames, then a few hours for the glue to dry. I basically do a batch any evening I have a short stretch of time to spare, and slowly but surely work my way toward the daunting total quantity needed. This means I don't get overwhelmed trying to do them all at once, or keep count. 
 
Once I reach the beginning of stem and stern curves, I will have to build the frames custom-in-place, but as the standard square frames make up much of the boat's total length, this will be manageable.When all the standard frames are done, I'll start installing the keelson and other stringers to hold the structure firmly together, then proceed on the more complex ends.
 
So that's where the Bertrand stands this weekend. I will do another update when these square frames are completed and I've started in on the interesting challenge of stem & stern. Hopefully the wait won't be as long this time!
 

The Bertrand, version 2.0, is underway!
 

 
Above, you see a set of mid-hull frames assembled and laid out at the prototype spacing of about 15 scale inches. Astute observers may notice something different from earlier in this log: these frames are built at a 90 degree angle (floor to futtock), not canted outward. The more I compared my purchased plans to the original archeological drawings now in my possession, the more blatant errors I found. I've now pretty much abandoned those first plans and spent some time scanning and resizing the new drawings to 1:87 scale and hitting the reset button on pretty much everything involved with this project. Hence the delay in updating this log, along with a busy few weeks in real life. 
 
According to the actual archeological notes (from here on referred to as the Petsche plans after the leader of the excavation team), Bertrand very definitely had squared-off mid-hull frames, with angles only occurring at stem and stern. In other words, this plan view and the frames I built from it were totally wrong:
 

 
So I designed a new set of frame molds and have been busy mass-producing frames:
 

 
I do these eight at a time, pre-cutting the floors and futtocks on my trusty cutter (upper left), then assembling them around the wooden molds seen at right. These are pinned to a piece of foam board, holding everything in place. I pin a floor in place, dip each futtock in wood glue, then fit it in place along the side of the form, using another pin on each side. Then I use the cutter to create the tiny angle braces, smear some more glue across the joint, and use tweezers to install each angle brace on top. Below is a detail of several of these assemblies:
 

 
When these are dry, I use the cutter to lop a small 45 degree angle off each bilge corner, where a bilge plank will go. These areas were not rounded as on a sea-going vessel, but angular, which made construction much easier for the craftsmen assembling these boats in the American wilderness of the upper Ohio River. Note that the molds have a 45 degree angle cut out at the turn of the bilge. This is so I can glue the bilge together without anything sticking to the mold. The remainder of the frame is sufficient to hold the pieces at a proper 90 degree angle. Anything that sticks to the foam board is popped off with a flat knife blade and sanded smooth.
 
Here's an overhead view of my hull setup:
 

 
A copy of the inner hull plan is attached to the build board with double-sided tape. Several layers of wooden strips line both sides of the hull to provide consistent support for the frames (also attached with tape). The plans then have four thin strips of double-sided tape run on top, to hold the frames in place during assembly. I use wooden spacers to support each frame, keeping it at the proper distance from its neighbors and properly vertical. In these photos, I've removed some spacers temporarily so you can see more detail. I've used tape for everything to allow adjustment is necessary, and it works great. This jig was very much inspired by the Cairo build suggested earlier in this log (thanks, Ken!)
 
As each batch of 8 frames is ready, I add them to the hull jig. It takes 15-20 minutes to build 8 frames, then a few hours for the glue to dry. I basically do a batch any evening I have a short stretch of time to spare, and slowly but surely work my way toward the daunting total quantity needed. This means I don't get overwhelmed trying to do them all at once, or keep count. 
 
Once I reach the beginning of stem and stern curves, I will have to build the frames custom-in-place, but as the standard square frames make up much of the boat's total length, this will be manageable.When all the standard frames are done, I'll start installing the keelson and other stringers to hold the structure firmly together, then proceed on the more complex ends.
 
So that's where the Bertrand stands this weekend. I will do another update when these square frames are completed and I've started in on the interesting challenge of stem & stern. Hopefully the wait won't be as long this time!
 

The Bertrand, version 2.0, is underway!
 

 
Above, you see a set of mid-hull frames assembled and laid out at the prototype spacing of about 15 scale inches. Astute observers may notice something different from earlier in this log: these frames are built at a 90 degree angle (floor to futtock), not canted outward. The more I compared my purchased plans to the original archeological drawings now in my possession, the more blatant errors I found. I've now pretty much abandoned those first plans and spent some time scanning and resizing the new drawings to 1:87 scale and hitting the reset button on pretty much everything involved with this project. Hence the delay in updating this log, along with a busy few weeks in real life. 
 
According to the actual archeological notes (from here on referred to as the Petsche plans after the leader of the excavation team), Bertrand very definitely had squared-off mid-hull frames, with angles only occurring at stem and stern. In other words, this plan view and the frames I built from it were totally wrong:
 

 
So I designed a new set of frame molds and have been busy mass-producing frames:
 

 
I do these eight at a time, pre-cutting the floors and futtocks on my trusty cutter (upper left), then assembling them around the wooden molds seen at right. These are pinned to a piece of foam board, holding everything in place. I pin a floor in place, dip each futtock in wood glue, then fit it in place along the side of the form, using another pin on each side. Then I use the cutter to create the tiny angle braces, smear some more glue across the joint, and use tweezers to install each angle brace on top. Below is a detail of several of these assemblies:
 

 
When these are dry, I use the cutter to lop a small 45 degree angle off each bilge corner, where a bilge plank will go. These areas were not rounded as on a sea-going vessel, but angular, which made construction much easier for the craftsmen assembling these boats in the American wilderness of the upper Ohio River. Note that the molds have a 45 degree angle cut out at the turn of the bilge. This is so I can glue the bilge together without anything sticking to the mold. The remainder of the frame is sufficient to hold the pieces at a proper 90 degree angle. Anything that sticks to the foam board is popped off with a flat knife blade and sanded smooth.
 
Here's an overhead view of my hull setup:
 

 
A copy of the inner hull plan is attached to the build board with double-sided tape. Several layers of wooden strips line both sides of the hull to provide consistent support for the frames (also attached with tape). The plans then have four thin strips of double-sided tape run on top, to hold the frames in place during assembly. I use wooden spacers to support each frame, keeping it at the proper distance from its neighbors and properly vertical. In these photos, I've removed some spacers temporarily so you can see more detail. I've used tape for everything to allow adjustment is necessary, and it works great. This jig was very much inspired by the Cairo build suggested earlier in this log (thanks, Ken!)
 
As each batch of 8 frames is ready, I add them to the hull jig. It takes 15-20 minutes to build 8 frames, then a few hours for the glue to dry. I basically do a batch any evening I have a short stretch of time to spare, and slowly but surely work my way toward the daunting total quantity needed. This means I don't get overwhelmed trying to do them all at once, or keep count. 
 
Once I reach the beginning of stem and stern curves, I will have to build the frames custom-in-place, but as the standard square frames make up much of the boat's total length, this will be manageable.When all the standard frames are done, I'll start installing the keelson and other stringers to hold the structure firmly together, then proceed on the more complex ends.
 
So that's where the Bertrand stands this weekend. I will do another update when these square frames are completed and I've started in on the interesting challenge of stem & stern. Hopefully the wait won't be as long this time!
 

Ken, I think you're right about the cherry frames not quite sitting tight with the forms. A number of mine had just a bit of space after drying, they never quite fit perfectly. You almost have to bend them TOO far to get them to rebound to just the right shape. Be interesting for someone to try sanding the molds down a bit too far, and see if the frames bent onto them ended up just right.
 
I also suspect this is why some of us needed stealers. If the molds are absolutely tight, then the planks as pre-cut may fit just barely right. If there's any spreading at all, then naturally the hull becomes a lot wider and you end up needing stealers. Just a theory, but it makes geometric sense to me.
 
Otherwise looks just right so far!

Ken, I think you're right about the cherry frames not quite sitting tight with the forms. A number of mine had just a bit of space after drying, they never quite fit perfectly. You almost have to bend them TOO far to get them to rebound to just the right shape. Be interesting for someone to try sanding the molds down a bit too far, and see if the frames bent onto them ended up just right.
 
I also suspect this is why some of us needed stealers. If the molds are absolutely tight, then the planks as pre-cut may fit just barely right. If there's any spreading at all, then naturally the hull becomes a lot wider and you end up needing stealers. Just a theory, but it makes geometric sense to me.
 
Otherwise looks just right so far!

Ken, I think you're right about the cherry frames not quite sitting tight with the forms. A number of mine had just a bit of space after drying, they never quite fit perfectly. You almost have to bend them TOO far to get them to rebound to just the right shape. Be interesting for someone to try sanding the molds down a bit too far, and see if the frames bent onto them ended up just right.
 
I also suspect this is why some of us needed stealers. If the molds are absolutely tight, then the planks as pre-cut may fit just barely right. If there's any spreading at all, then naturally the hull becomes a lot wider and you end up needing stealers. Just a theory, but it makes geometric sense to me.
 
Otherwise looks just right so far!

Ken, I think you're right about the cherry frames not quite sitting tight with the forms. A number of mine had just a bit of space after drying, they never quite fit perfectly. You almost have to bend them TOO far to get them to rebound to just the right shape. Be interesting for someone to try sanding the molds down a bit too far, and see if the frames bent onto them ended up just right.
 
I also suspect this is why some of us needed stealers. If the molds are absolutely tight, then the planks as pre-cut may fit just barely right. If there's any spreading at all, then naturally the hull becomes a lot wider and you end up needing stealers. Just a theory, but it makes geometric sense to me.
 
Otherwise looks just right so far!

thanks for the comments and likes, fellows. Squirrel Whisperer, your wish is my command... 
 

This is my take on Cathead's stem blocking. I cut the part outlines from the parts sheet, marked them to show where the planks should fall and clamped them onto the stem. These are for the sheer strake and next few planks. I have a second set for the lower planks.
 

Sitting with the Admiral eating breakfast this morning, she asked how the Launch was going.   I said I had to bend the ends in boiling water and affix them. She asked why I wasn't using the blow-dryer to bend the ends. Hmm, the Darlin' is on to something here.   So port side plank #2 is hot air bent.
 

One kind of overall shot. I'm tapering the edges by sanding the inside edges to tighten up the outside edges of the planks. Another Maestro Chuck technique.
 
Matt, I've been thinking about that spread issue. Methinks the cherry frames don't sit as tight to the forms as they should, hence the spread. I may tack glue the center seat or affix a light weight spreader clamp across the thwarts. Think light but strong. 

Finally have both garboards and strakes glued up. Now fitting the #2 strakes by boiling the hood ends. I beefed up the stem form with the kit scraps for the stem bracing. Per Cathead in #65 and 67 above, it helps to hold the hood ends in place. I penciled in the lines for strake alignment on the inside of the curves; it matches up with the pencil lines I already had in place in the stem's rabbet.