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Everything posted by Cathead

  1. Turns out I moved forward today. I experimented with various cloth methods, after reading some more build logs, and just couldn't come up with something I liked or wanted to do. So I went back to the paper sail and applied another layer of colored pencil followed by a thick rub of brown pastel. This ended up darkening it pretty well with a better match for the model's color profile, and looks more like a weathered, heavily used sail. Before: After: So I think I'm just going to go with this. I want to keep moving. I also
  2. Sorry for the slow reply, kept thinking I'd wait until I had something new to show but still don't. This is the first time I've done a multicolored sail with pastel. In the past, smearing hasn't been a big deal because I've just been using the pastels to age/weather the white paper into a faded yellowish (see the sails on my revenue cutter linked in my signature). It took a lot more care not to transfer colors back and forth between the different panels this time. I find that once colors get rubbed into bond paper, they smear less. I wipe/rub the paper surface first with fingers t
  3. Another detail you might consider, look closely at the deadeyes in the drawings given previously. Deadeyes are always rigged in the same orientation, with the point of the triangle of holes facing down for the lower deadeye and up for the upper one. They should "face away" from each other in a matched pair, like two triangles pointing away from each other. This is not only "right", it will also make the rigging easier and cleaner. Not sure if this is easy for you to fix or not, but wanted to point it out. Sorry I'm just catching up now, may be too late. One other small note, it's
  4. Ominous. Going back and fixing things one doesn't like is often frustrating but usually feels better afterward.
  5. Wefalck, most Germans I've met have thought I was Dutch rather than American (when speaking German). Perhaps that's one reason? A few have thought Australian, oddly, can't explain that one.
  6. Personally I think I'd remove it. Even if you feel it's more accurate, from an artistic/presentation perspective it may be distracting to casual viewers. I have a "soft" rule for myself that anything that's right but I feel like I should have an interpretive card explaining "well, actually" for, maybe I should rethink. But it's certainly up to you!
  7. It sure looks like you're right about the chains, they should naturally have a gap for the gunport without having to be angled around it.
  8. First builds are always a learning process, I cringe at some of my early attempts! You've got the right attitude, keep having fun.
  9. Looks nice so far, glad you decided to start a log. Things like the keel gap can be frustrating for the builder but are rarely noticed by viewers.
  10. No worries, envisioning hull geometry can be really hard until you get used to it (I still struggle at times). Here are a couple more photos to help you envision this. In the bow planking below, look at how the planks butt up against the stem (the part of the keel that curves up to the front of the bow). Those plank ends are actually inserted into the little beveled notch you're forming in the false keel. Without that bevel, they'd just butt right up against the edge of the stem and you'd have a harder time getting them to stay in place and getting a nice smooth joint.
  11. EDIT: Oops, looks like you deleted your latest question while I was responding to it, so the content below now seems rather odd! I'll leave it in case it still helps you or anyone else. This clarifies how and where the beveling happens. You are correct, the "bearding line" laser-etched into the false keel is the point at which the bevel starts. From that line, you bevel down toward the outer edge of the false keel (toward the real keel, away from the inside of the boat). So one point of confusion here is that I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "entire" and there are
  12. It's a good question, and good to ask before starting work as this piece would be difficult to replace.
  13. I struggled with the same question, and also liked the idea of shrouds connected to knees rather than through the gunwale. I, too, came to the realization too late to adapt my model's existing structure to it. I just went ahead and tied off to the gunwale, but I like your idea of the added knees. Looks good and captures the essence of the idea. No one but the most pedantic observer will ask "hey, why are there more frames in that section?"
  14. We did indeed open a bottle of homemade mead last night, so good call there. This is the third model I've made paper sails for and I adore this method.
  15. Thanks, that helps. Yes, you do need to bevel the entire false keel. At the stern, the lowest plank will be parallel with the actual keel and ideally flush with it (a smooth surface from keel into planking). At the bow, the whole thing needs to be beveled so there's a "notch" into which the butt ends of the planks can fit, behind the keel (called the stem at the bow), helping hold them in place. See if this image from my build helps you see how this bevel looks. See how there's a shadow all the way along the false keel? Without that, the planks wouldn't have much to "grab on to" when you start
  16. Made lots of progress on the sail, on a cold blustery rainy day that feels very appropriate for this Irish-Norse ship. Here's a step-by-step of what I decided to do. I cut paper panels to represent bolts of sailcloth, making these wide enough to allow for overlap (I decided to mimic the "lapped fell seam" in the link Steven shared above): I then colored each strip yellow or red using pastels rubbed in with my fingers. Do each color on its own and don't mix them, or you'll get all orange panels! The sail is taller than a
  17. Welcomed! Have fun with your first build and don't sweat the details, there's so much to learn just by doing. To start a build log, just go to the main MSW page, scroll down until you see Members' Build Logs >> Build Logs for Ship Model Kits and click on the era your chosen kit fits into (such as 1851-1900). Then, just above where all the build log links start, you'll see big black button labeled "Start New Topic". Click that and it'll prompt you to fill in a title, after which you just start entering your first post. Be sure to read the rules for naming your build log as th
  18. I don't have my instructions anymore. Any chance you can post a photo of the step you're asking about?
  19. Kurt, my mother (born '48) grew up in rural Mindanao as her father was a missionary there. The insurgency was ongoing even then, he would come home from doing his rounds in the hill country with bullet holes in his jeep. My father grew up in Manila, his family goes all the way back to the Spanish-American war as they set up the first US Post Office in the country once the US took over from the Spanish (for years they had Box #1 at the central Manila PO) and stayed on to start various businesses. I grew up with all sorts of Filipino songs, nursery rhymes, etc. and still do a lot of Filipino coo
  20. This is a good general rule of thumb for all materials. Glue can hold things in place, but ideally should not have to hold much tension. You're making great progress!
  21. Bigpetr, thanks for that! I'm aware that shields may have been leather-covered, but explained my reasoning for emphasizing the planking earlier in this log: In a model setting, a plain face might BE more accurate but could LOOK less accurate as it won't necessarily be obvious to a casual viewer that a leather covering is WHY the face is plain. In theory I could have played around with some kind of fabric covering to suggest the right texture, but frankly I just didn't want to, and getting that stretched tight enough without the rims being rumpled could have been ve
  22. Sorry for the late response. I would have advised painting straight across, which you ended up choosing, so no worries there. As for the missing gunport, my favorite way to do that is to mark out the square and drill small holes just inside the boundary, essentially perforating the wood. This makes it easier to use a small knife or saw to cut out the port. The reason to ensure the holes are just inside, not right along the line, is that you'll end up with an uneven cut no matter how careful you are, so you can use a file or sandpaper to finish it out to the right size.
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