amateur

Probably a protected cruiser, this one....

But still no clue which one

Jan

Hi Gyula,

I see in your picture of the frames the quarter circle in the lower ricgt corner. Van Yk also shows these little circles.

But what I don't understand: what diameter is used for these little circles?

Second remark: your gunports in the stern seems to be placed quite high under the 'heckbalk'. Will the gunports lids fit under the transom?

btw do you know this link: http://www.otteblom.nl/

It's in Dutch, but you will certainly understand the drawings

Jan

I also thought it was washington: but washinton has two hawseholes, this one has ony one......

Jan

Thanks for the link Wim. Strange thought that the VOC site doesn't mention it.

 

Sorry Gyula, we let you get on with your plans now.

 

Take care,

 

Anja

That's not strange: the Eendracht 1666 was not owned by the VOC, but was a ship of the admirality (like e.g. the Zeven Provincien was.)

Up till 1650 many of the war ships were adapted merchant ships owned by the VOC, and rented out to the navy...

Jan

Did the english navy still have threir coat of arms on the bow by this time?

I think it's a USS ship around 1905....

and it's quite large: it has four funnels, HMS dreadnought has only two....

Jan

But then, why bother to make all the other gunports on the orlopdeck??  

Jan

Not me, Ab does

Jan

Link to the drawings to the Hoving book:

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/images/

Jan

Bruno,

 

what is the base for your model (Friesland) in the gallery – which plans did you use? Is it a scratch or a kit?

 

Can I (we) see the project Narim Maygeldinov is doing? I am curious also about his sources (plans, etc.)  since this is one of the

biggest issues in my build. How does he mean to do it in admirality – Dutch did not have so strict rules like e.g. English ships? But, maybe a Dutch ship model showing the construction underneath... could be interesting.

 

A great book about Dutch shipbuilding  (I also have it) is by Ab Hoving: "Nicolaes Witsen and Shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden Age"

 

Dražen

The book by Hoving is great, I have the Dutch version.

The drawings that come with it are also somewhere on the net (I lost the link, as it was in the old MSW)

The Friesland in the gallery is based either on the kit of mamoli, or at leat, those are the drawings used.

These drawings are loosely based on the drawings that come with the book of Winter (Dutch two decker of 1660), which are in turn based on the old (and now lost) model of a Dutch two-decker in the Berlin Stadschloss before the war.

Jan

.

I don't have a byrnes, I did some ropelaying on a basic lego-ropewalk.

When doing it the right way, my rope does not untwist.

Untwisting rope (at least in my case) points at the fact that

I disobey the rules of making lefthand twisted rope using righthanded thread and vicve-versa.

Jan

If you can replace it: do.

However: you can splice it (or do something that looks like it) as long as your rope has no clear strands in it (otherwise you'll be seeing it from miles away), and there will be no tension on the shrould.

How do I know?  well    (btw where is the ashamed off emoticon gone )

I snipped one of my futtoch shroulds a couple of months ago. I was not able to remove the lower part of the without damaging more than I would have liked.

So I spliced a new 'upper part' to it. Not completely invisible (you can see a slightly thicker part in the shrould to the right, just above the seizings. But it will do (at least, for me ) (to get an idea of the scale: ratlines is .15 mm thread)

Can you now recognize the De Zeven Provincien?

 

Dražen

We certainly do!

Jan

Hi,

I thought blocks were always attached to a bolt using a hook....

I sometimes use the following way when the block is part of a tackle.

Attach the thread to the bolt (using a half hitch).

Then attach the block to the thread by making a kind of strop of the two loose ends of the thread.

using again a half hitch. Finish with two seizings (or at least one, above the block).

This only works if the block to be attached is the one on which the rope for the tackle starts...

Otherwise, its the other way round: start with the block, and finish off at the eyebolt.

Take one end thru the eyebolt, and finish of with a seizing.

(I also used some black paint to suggest a metal hook, but that proved to be a bit messy)

Jan

As far as I can remember, Preisser used to have 1:100 scale figures (unpainted),

they require a lot of surgery and painting turning them in to seamen, dut it can be done (there used to be some

of those surgery-logs in MSW-1, done by Dafi (working on his 1:100 Heller Victory)

Perhaps you can find them somewhere....

I did: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/page-6#entry4763

Jan

Ah, missed that discussion...

Will drop in there

Jan

Hi Michiel,

Looking good, but shouldn't the schaarstokken around the main hatch touch each other sideways?

Jan

Glad you are back!

You can do a 'speed log' as many of us have done: just the highlights of what was done before.

Jan

To be sure to get the record, I should perhaps stop building for a couple of years

Jan

Nice one!

Did you do the design yourself, or did you use the Modelshipways longboat as a starting point?

Jan

I like flutes as well I think they are neat looking with all the decks. Makes me curious as to why you would build a ship if you think its ugly. Also I have heard the term kit bashing used before and I'm wondering if that would be what this type of build is considered in that your taking a kit and changing it to build something different. Either way it's still scratch. It sounds as though you have it all planned and know exactly what you want. I look forward to seeing your ship progress.

Knowing Arjan a little bit longer now, I guess part of the modifications will grow in his head while building

Derflinger is a 1930-ies reconstruction by Loeff, who had almost no acces on reliable sources on Dutch shipbuilding.

It is in no way a good depiction of a Dutch Fluyt.

The Mantua is based on a model, and in that way, it is a model of a model, and the kitmaker/builder does not know how relieable the original model is. So modifications to get the thing closer to 'how a fluit should look like' is a sensible strategy.And yes, kitbashing is used for building a modified kit. (Although I'm not quite sure whether a redesign of a kit will still go under the name of bashing, in my view bashing is more like replacing ugly metal gunports and doorhinges with better looking ones )

Anyway, this fluit will be very good looking

Jan

It's a pitty that Chucks buildlog on the Mayflower is gone (at least, I didn't manage to find it)

but Chuck Passarro does absolute wonders on basswood. I think he is also using the minwax pre-satin /stain combination.

Jan

OK, the reason I ask, is that Corel added a kind of non-specific figures to the Prins Willem kit,

in stead of a serious replica of the original. Made paintin git 'like the original' an impossibility.

Jan

Thanks!

To my model, the "MSW disaster" proved to be a blessing in disguise:

I'm back into little knots again

Jan

thanks for your comments. I have seen a build log on the old MSW, but I did not make a pdf of that log, from someone who did the same with a Corel kit. After visiting the Museum in Stockholm in November last year I finally decided to have the painting as equal as possible to the 1:10 scale model.

So yours will be flaring red in stead of the Landstrom blue?

Will be in ainteresting excercise, painting the little figures in full colour.

(btw: how do the Corel figures match to the originals?)

Jan

Now that is a unicorn!

Sculpting a 1,5 cm long unicorn. That's amazing!

(or in your case I could also say: it's up to your usual, unbelievably high standard )

Jan