Jeff-E

The last stage of the rigging before I tackled the ratlines was to rig the backstays. The stays had previously  been siezed around the mast cleats and consist of a single line with a one hole block siezed to the end of it. Another length of black cord is then treaded through this one hole block and attached to the second dogbone fitted to the gunwale a double violin block is siezed to the other end of this line. The violin block is then reeved to the one hole block attached to the pedestal on the outside of the hull and belayed to the eyebolt fitted just inside the rail on each side.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi All,
 
The first picure shows another view of the gaff rigged.
 

 
The next job was to fit and rig the driver boom; this spar only has two lines rigged to it they being the topping lift and the mainsheet.. The boom was attached to the mast with parrel beads and the jaws rested on the boom support fixed to the mast.
 

 
The two lines were then rigged. The topping lift starts at a two hole block fitted to the mast at the shroud cleats and goes down to aone hole block fitted to the end of the boom and then back up through the two hole block and back down to the deck belaying off at the port side belaying pin.
 

 

 
The mainsheet is rigged using two two hole blocks one attached to the boom and the other to a rail fitted to the transom the blocks are reeved together and the the line belays to the cleat on the port side  of the transom.
 

 

 

AS you can see in the last post the tiller has been fitted unfortunately some of the pictures I took of the rigged mainsheet were not very clear  . The tiller was not fitted until all the rigging in this area was complete  
 
The next two pic's show another view of the boom rigging
 

 

 
I then fitted the tiller to the rudder.
 

 

 

Hi All,
 
The first picure shows another view of the gaff rigged.
 

 
The next job was to fit and rig the driver boom; this spar only has two lines rigged to it they being the topping lift and the mainsheet.. The boom was attached to the mast with parrel beads and the jaws rested on the boom support fixed to the mast.
 

 
The two lines were then rigged. The topping lift starts at a two hole block fitted to the mast at the shroud cleats and goes down to aone hole block fitted to the end of the boom and then back up through the two hole block and back down to the deck belaying off at the port side belaying pin.
 

 

 
The mainsheet is rigged using two two hole blocks one attached to the boom and the other to a rail fitted to the transom the blocks are reeved together and the the line belays to the cleat on the port side  of the transom.
 

 

 

Hi All,
 
That takes care of the standing rigging for now as I will rig the ratlines after te running rigging is complete.
 
The first picture is a clearer shot of the bowsprit guys or stays  I'm not sure of the right term
 

 
The next set of photos are of the jib traveller. The first one is of the traveller before it was fitted to the bowsprit It differs from the instructions as it has a 'D' shackle for the outhaul line and a hook which would attach to the bolt rope of the sail a single hole wooden block was added after it was painted and then fitted to the bowsprit before attaching it to the hull.
 

 
The next three photos show the jib traveller rigged. The outn haul line belays on the othehaul line is rigged through a hole in the end of the bowsprit and is belayed on a cleat on the headstock not as the instuctions tell which is to terminate at an eye pin halfway down the stempost , the inhaul line belays on the other cleat on the headstock and the jib halyard is rigged through the single block on the traveller and up through 2  single blocks attached to the mast and then down to the belaying points on the deck
 

 

 

 

Hi Mobbsie,
 
For your first attempt at copper plating you have done an excellent job. You should be proud of it , looks like you have done this many times before.    

Hi Danny,
 
Thank you for your kind comments , it was your log on the old site that gave me the ideas to build her this way

Hi Mobbsie;
 
Very nice start to your coppering

I  also made the bowsprit and the gaff an driver boom while making the mast, these were also stained with baltic pine and any blocks required were attached.
 

 

 

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PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS TUTORIAL IS FROM THE PREVIOUS VERSION OF MSW AND NO LONGER WORKS AS DESCRIBED. AN UPDATED VERSION WILL BE POSTED SHORTLY.

My next job was to make and fit the mast. Unfortunately when I went to start tapering the dowel supplied for the mast I found that it was warped and had a bad knot in the middle of it  It pays to really check the contents of the kit properly when first purchased as I probably could have got a replacement. This was not the only problem as I was to find out later that I was also short a couple of dead eyes and rigging blocks , my fault for not checking the contents thoroughly when I first brought it   
Any way It was off to the local hardware store to find a new mast, the mast dowel size was 10mm which I thought would be readily available, wrong! would you believe it they make 6mm, 8mm, 9mm & 12mm dowel, no 10mm, so after searching through about 20 pieces of the 9mm dowel I came across a piece that was about 9.5mm in diameter, straight and no knots  this became the mast.
 
The rigging blocks after bieng shaped were stropped with 2 wraps of black cotton, any that needed a becket I dirlled a small hloe into the base of ther block and glued in a a small copper eye pin painted black and then stropped trough the ring for extra security.
 
The mast was tapered accoring to the instructions and then holes were drilled to take the eyepins to hold the rigging blocks, the shroud cleats were fitted as was the boom support I also made the strap that is to be fitted 85mm from the top of the mast to hold the block for the throat halyard. The mast was then stained with Baltic Pine before the blocks were attached.
 
Some pic's

Hello All,
 
After fitting the hand rail stanchions I glued on the compaionway, barrels and pumps.Also you can see around amid ships I have fitted 2 belaying pins in their own little rack. These are for the throat halyard and the topping lift to be belayed to later. The instructions tell you to fit the belaying pins straight into the cap rail and the pins supplied were too small.
 
Some pictures of the fitted deck furniture

I fitted the hatch grating to the deck next and then I drilled a hole in each of the  hand rail stanchions and rowlocks and inserted a brass pin into them for security. I then marked and drilled holes in the cap rail to accept them.
 
As you can see on the last picture I have fitted the 2 cleats and the lower boom sheet block to the transom
 
Thats all for now I will post some more pic's tomorrow  

Hello everyone,
 
The next step was to fit some of the deck funiture and the baulsters for the rear hand rails.
 
The first lot of photos show the construction of the companionway, elmtree pumps and the water barrel stand the hatch grating . The door hinges on the compaionway were modified from the kit supplied ones as they were just a straight hinge with no means of pivoting, I cut some brass stip and bent some brass wire to represent the 'T' of the hinge. I also planked the doors differently from how the instructions show them.

And the rudder attached  

After the cap rail was fitted and sanded the next job was to fit the rudder.
 
I had made the rudder while ago as a distraction from planking the hull.
 
The supplied rudder is 4mm ply and has to be planked with 0.5mm walnut strips the slots for the hinges also need to be marked and cut out. The tiller is also made from 4mm ply, and although you can see the grains of ply while it is in it's raw state, it does not look to bad once it has been stained.
 
I also added tree nails to the rudder to simulate the separate planks being nailed together.
 
The rudder was then fitted to the transom.
 
This post will show pictures of the costruction of the rudder and the next post will show the rudder fitted to the hull. 

Hi All,
 
My next task was to file the stem post and cap rail to take the bowsprit. After this was done I fitted the head stock, driiled the holes for the anchor rope and fitted the eye bolts to the deck.
 
All of the eyebolt rings are soldered to stop them opening up when tension is applied to them.
 
As with all the deck furniture the headstock was made some time ago. It is made from 4mm x 4mm walnut and was supposed to have a piece of brass rod inserted through it 5mm from the top to belay the jib traveller lines to. I decided to make 2 small cleats to attach to it instead of the rod, there were 4 of them laser cut on one of the 4mm plywood sheets which were not going to be used. They were a bit large so I filed them down to size and attached them to the headstock with small copper dowels.
 
I also fitted the 5 foot grips to the deck.
 
The first 2 pictures are of the headstock before ti was fitted. The second pic also shows the anchor winch which will be described later.

Hi All,
 
The next step was to attach the cap rails. I was intending to make these out of 8mm x 2mm walnut but after a bit of experimentation found that it was going to be too hard to shape espeially in the bow area. the cap rail is meant to be 6mm wide. So in the end I went with the kit supplied flexible beech which was very easy to work. The kit supplied a 4mm x 2mm length which is glued on first and a 2mm x 2mm length which is then glued to the outside edge of the first strip thus giving the 6mm required.
 
Some pictures follow  

Hello everyone,
 
After marking the and measuring the frames the next stage in the build was the first layer of planking.
 
Anyone one who followwed Dan Vads build of this model on the old site will know that used scale plank lengths for both the first and second layer of planks, I have done the same . I found it eaiser to glue on and position the smaller lengths than trying to glue on a full length plank in one go without the glue going off.  
The length of the hull is approximatly 330mm from stem to stern along the keel so at a scale of 1:36 the longest plank could be about 200mm which equates to about 23ft. I used a 3 butt shift pattern to lay the planks.
I followed Danny's log closely while laying the first layer of planks however his turned out a lot better than mine , but for for my first attempt at this method I was quite happy with the result .
 
The first photos show the first bow plank fitted and the stern stealers. I will post some more pictures shortly.

:DHello All,
 
Hi Danny and thank you for looking in and I will take you up on your offer of advice when needed  
 
The next stage was to fit the first plank which is to be positioned, according to the instrctions, 3.5mm below the the top of the frames. As i had already fitted the deck I measured from the top of the deck which is 1.5mm thick, therefore my first plank was fitted 2mm below the frames, a mistake I did not realise I had made until the first planking was almost completed.  
This problem was over come when the bulwarks were fitted I sanded them down to suit .
 
After this first plank was fitted I then fitted the garboard strake. To ensure that the keel fitted snuggly to the garboard strake I temporarily fitted two 5mm spacers to the false keel.Before laying the garbord plank I soaked the rear end of the plank and then clamped it place on the frame to ensure the twist from about frame 8 sternwards was achieved. Both  the first plank and the garboard plank were laid full length.
Once  these were laid I then measured each frame, both port and starboard, and recorded them. This would tell me the width of each plank at each frame. I then ran a series of planks aproximately 5 plank widths apart and left to lie naturally.
These planks served two purposes one to form planking bands, and the second to show how the planks would run.
 
The following pictures will hopefully explain it clearer