zoly99sask

Finished off the cartridge containers. Instructions say to glue the straps directly to the wood sides but i put a piece of brass wire in for the straps to fit to

 
Painted up and straps fitted

 
Randomly placed them about the deck


 
 

Made the first of the tubs and buckets for both builds

 
Fitted to the deck

 

Time to do the gun port lids. The ones the kit says to make look way oversized to me far to thick. This is just my opinion, others may like the way they look
 
Kit lids

 
I decided to make mine 3mm thick. I cut out a 1.5mm x 30mm x120mm strip of ply

 
Then cut it in half and glued the two halves together to make a 3mm x 30mm x 60mm strip

 
Then i cut out 2 30mm x 30mm squares and once sanded they fit in the gun ports nicely


 
Just need to decide what colour to do them. I want to do black but that may hide the hinges as they are blackened brass but hopefully it won't matter

Thanks Ian
And also thanks to all those who have liked and remarked on my build so far 
Cannon building method is just like the rest of the build. Assume everything in the instructions is wrong, take all the parts and dry fit everything and adjust until you are happy
Plus the large scale makes everything much easier. Following pic gives you an idea how big they are
 
Thanks to you too Elijah
Always room for more members of the anti sanding club
 
Pic to demo cannon size

Finally i got the inclination to trim, fill and sand the gun port liners
If i get another bout of inclination i might make some gun port lids next

Cannons fitted out with all eyelets, rings and chains. Also i changed the kit supplied rope for some decent rope   They still need to be cut to correct length once i decide where the cannons will be positioned


 
Placed cannons on deck just for the sake of it to see how they look
Masking tape on the deck planks is there so i don't mess up the planks when i can be bothered to sand the inner gun port liners, I hate sanding

 
 

Have finally gotten around to finishing the gun deck planking. It went smoothly overall. I am somewhat disappointed with the caulking strips. The pix don't show it (for once) but they look a little raggedy and rough. If I had it to do again I would not take that approach.
 

 

 

 
It appears the next steps are to plank the hull frame. I am debating whether to do that now or wait. It seems like this will further limit my access inside the gun area. I think there is quite a bit of stuff I could do before the planking.
 
I'm curious to hear what you other builders of this kit did.
 
 

Looks real good Ian, seems like she is a fairly big ship. Hope you enjoy 

Cannons partially built to test the fit of the wedge with the reduced size base under the wedge.
Lots of room for trajectory adjustments now. This won't apply to mine as moving parts will be glued into place to stop bits falling off when completed build is moved, but i still want it to look like there is adjustment possible.
Note the hollow trunnions will be replaced with a solid bar when the cannons are ready to be finished

I had a bit of spare time today so i decided to work on the mechanism for altering the gun trajectory.
As pointed out by Mr Pucko the plans call for it to be made using sizes that are to big and not allowing the gun to have a straight or upward trajectory
Main parts made as per instruction for test purposes on the gun
Piece of 6mm thick ply with 2 strips of 2mm x 5mm batons glued on

 
I dug into my plywood stash and cut 4 pieces of 1.5mm ply and glued them in pairs to make two bases then i glued 1mm x 5mm batons on to them
As you can see they are now half the thickness of the original ones

 
I then glued two small 1mm x 2mm batons on to the wedges. this allows the wedges to slide freely on the base and now i have a lot more up and down movement on the barrels
Next job is to add the handles to the wedges then fit them all on to the cannon bases

 

Hi all, thanks for the likes and comments
 
Quick update
Outer and inner hull side planked
Now for lots of sanding before sorting out the gun port linings
 


 

Hi EJ, what you see is all kit wood and the quality is great. The only wood i am planning on adding myself is to the exposed beams and frames at the end of the build. I am going to add 0.5 x 6mm Lime over each exposed beam and frame then painting them white. This should give me a better finish rather than painting over the exposed ply edges.
Thanks for noticing i had not added the simulated tree nails around the sides of the coamings, i had forgotton to add them but better to find out now than to remember when the top deck is partially planked
The tree nails are indented and i use this to make the hole, then i use the point of a pencil to darken it and make it slightly wider

 
Tree nails duly added (thanks to you )


The holes are a bit closer in the last photo but the camera angle makes them look more closer than they are.

Gun deck planking done except for the last plank which cannot be fitted until the three rear upright supports have been removed later in the build. They will be removed once the six support pillars have been put in place



Next job is the inner and outer hull planking
 

Extended the planking to about halfway now, but not happy with the kit design of not having any support underneath the planking. This meant there was a danger of cracking the planks when it came to sanding them.
Picture is planking seen from underneath

 
Got out my supply of 3mm birch plywood and roughly cut out two pieces to act as false decking

 
Once cleaned up they were glued to the underside of the planks to strengthen them

 
I then took some off cuts of 1mm x 4m lime i had already cut up for stirring paint and other such jobs

 
Glued 4 strips together to make a 4mm x 4mm beam, made 6 beams altogether

 
The beams were then glued to the main frames and cross beams and also to the bottom of the false decking i had made. Planking is now a lot more stable and will enable me to sand them without worrying about cracking them. The same will be done to the rear half where needed

Hi all
            First welcome to all and thanks to everyone for all the likes and comments
 
While waiting for planks to dry on my Bounty i started the deck planking on this build


 
The instructions supplied some 0.5mm x 2mm walnut to do the caulking in between the planks. i decided not to use this as it was a bit on the brittle side and more of it was ending up stuck in my fingers instead of on the kit
 
To simulate caulking along the length of the plank i used some 0.25mm thick black styrene sheet i have, i glued a strip along the length of the plank and once dry i trimmed it to fit

 
For the butt joints i went with the instructions which meant cutting a slot across the plank without going all the way through,  The reason for this is that except for the 3 frames there is no support beneath the planks to use a proper joint. Then i simulated tree nails either side if the slot.

Finished the assembly of the main Frame, it went together very easily.
Drilled and pinned all the joints with 2mm dowel and even though it has not dried and cured yet i am quite surprised how sturdy and rigid it is already
 
Sitting patiently on my desk with all joints drying before i trim away the excess dowels

 

Assembled the main framework, to keep it square i clamped engineer squares to the upright parts. The bottom cross beams will be removed one at a time and glued into place. Once all three have been glued i will remove the top three beams to allow me access to drill and pin the bottom three where the beams and frames meet, while they dry the top cross beans will be replaced to help keep it all square. when the bottom beams are all dry i can then repeat the process on the top beams

 

Assembled the 3 main frames

 
Drilled 2mm holes in the 2 joints on each of the 3 frames

 
Glued in 2mm dowel to strengthen the joints, and cut off, these will be sanded flat once the glue has dried

 

Compared to my Bounty the ply on this kit is luxury

 
First pieces to make the main 3 frames cut out

 
I like the fact that the top beams have had the holes for the eye pins already cut out, although they will still need a drill running through to clean them up. Also there are a few burn marks from the laser cutting to clean up as well

 
 

This will be my build log for the 1/23 scale Panart Kit, Section Deck Between Gun Bays also know as Posto Di Combattimento.
This is a secondary kit i am building which will be done when waiting for things like glue to dry or things to be sanded (I hate sanding ) on my other kit H.M.A.V. Bounty. So it will take longer than usual to complete.
Checked all the parts out and it all seems to be there but not sure if the Cannon trunions are missing or if they are made of dowel as the parts list doesn't say, either way it's a simple job to sort.


 
The wood looks to be good quality but some of the metalwork looks a bit iffy

Thanks Doc. Thank you for the LIKES dear friends .  .  .  .
 
This post will set a record for the least work accomplished and reported proudly. 
 
I have at least two weeks of studying your collective posts and personal experimentation trying to successfully edge bend the type of wood supplied with this kit. Chuck's video set me on the right path but the dry edge bending he uses destroys my wood specie - whatever it is. I have tried wet, dry, alcohol, water, hot, cold, boiling, microwave, wrap around coins, free shape, clamps, etc, etc .  .  .  .
 
Over the last two days I have learned that  if I wet my wood in warm water - alcohol is no good because it evaporates to fast -  it can be coerced to the extent necessary. The wood I have shatters if I edge bend it dry. In order to be successful my specific kind of wood has to be wet. I need to begin with the moveable part of my jig on top of the strake to keep it from wrinkling as I initially push it into the concave side. Working on a tile is best because it is slippery and I can slide the strake. Whatever wrinkling that might want to occur is held in check because it is beneath the moveable part of my jig and as the wood is soft, wet and mushy the wrinkling gets absorbed, if that would be a good description. As I get it mostly into the concave piece I can then move the moveable part into position behind the strake and push it the rest of the way for the tight fit you see in the picture. As I am doing that final push I need to continuously tamp the top of the strake with the square brass piece seen in the photo to keep it from wrinkling. Having the wood wet gives me the ability to do that without breaking or wrinkling the wood.
 
Once I have the strake fully shaped, I use Chuck's heat method for several minutes. Five to ten. When the strake is left in the jig overnight it is dimensionally stable in the morning with zero spring back.
 

 
The next picture is the first section of the wale plank on the stbd side. As stated yesterday, I plan to plank in shorter, less than full hull lengths to allow glueing control that is more positive than my previous attempt. The repeatable plank butt pattern might also add a little visual interest. This wale plank on each side and the one above it are the most difficult on the ship to shape. I carefully used dividers to ensure this strake is in the same relative hull position as the other side. The bands and virtual frame positions are seen but I have not begun to tic this side because that will be relative to this strake.
 

 
So, one small step but a major problem - for me - finally solved with a solution that is readily repeatable.
 
And then the stern. The demarcation between the diagonals and the horizontal strakes is not as perfect as I'd wish but it is covered  when the rear wrap around of the wale goes on.
 

 
Another day in the Cougar Mtn Shipyard .  .  .
 
Respectfully submitted,
John Maguire
Seattle
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Brian, Mark, Doc & Joe.
 
I am more verbose than most Joe because I am both slower and since I lack experience I am trying to show all the nitty gritty in hopes that one of you will catch me before I get way beyond my ability to reasonably recover.
 
The pictures in the manual show walnut but the supplied wood is far from that quality. I do not know what it is other than soft.
 
Edge bending to achieve a result similar to spiles took me a week of reading and finally Chuck's video to understand. Reading and doing are two different things .  .  .  .
 
The uppermost strake seen forward in the following photos is the wale plank.  I extended it one more piece aft, leaving one section to go. Learning from your build Mark, when I joined the piece to the wale plank I laid another alongside temporarily to assure the transition would be straight and unnoticed. Slight bending downward will take place beyond.
 
I also like the layout seen in the second group of pictures from the previous post. It seemed to embody the lessons so many have written, but I wanted to present it for opinions in case I was blind siding myself.
 
Today, for future reference, I carefully traced both sides of all four banding planks onto the hull, then tic'd off the uppermost band from my arbitrary 0 frame to the stem. I will end up with approximately 3/4 plank width there.
 

 
Here is another view further forward.
 

 
Before extending the wale strake I needed to finish planking the transom because the finish planking should overlay the transom edge.
 

 
I also had seam blackening for unknown reasons that I have seen others remark about. I am experimenting with an idea that I hope will prevent it. Chuck Passaro, in his CHEERFUL build makes a point of mentioning not using edge glue. He has as you know pencil blackened the edges to simulate tar. If he can get along without edge glue I plan to try it also. My two forward hull strakes and the entire transom are carefully fit with beveled edges and forced tight fits and so far they are clean. Fingers crossed.
 
Respectfully,
John

Thanks again for the likes and comments.
 
This truly is a work in progress.   The situation is slowly resolving itself...   
 
Today's update is somewhat tiny... waterways.    The first picture shows the mill setup with the ball cutter.  I pass each waterway piece through the jig and each time take off more material.   Picture 2 shows the profile on a test piece that I'm aiming for.   I'll need to profile the side against the hull during installation to get a good fit.
 

 

The drawings do not notice the hinges outside the doors, I presume, are recessed, so I've thought of an alternative system; I do not know if it can be appropriate, but it sure is effective: the pictures explain better than words:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
The desk:

 

 

Thank you for likes and compliments, friends!
 
tests positioning: