Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About mikiek

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

2,975 profile views
  1. With Chuck discontinuing Syren rope it might really be worth going for one of his rope walks like you said. Although I can say, it ain't easy to turn out nice looking rope even with his machine. I used to have a bunch of bookmarks for articles on how they used to make real rope. There is some actual science behind it. Which way the strands twist and then which way those strands twist if you are making bigger rope. The problem I had was with the twist of the first strands (usually sewing thread). I can't remember if the first strands are supposed to twist left or right but I do reme
  2. Hey Rowboat - what did you use for a stand? Those little blocks of wood that com with the kit are pretty cheesy. Not sure I trust them.
  3. Thank you for the recent interest. I don't know if this design has a European beginning or not. These were used in the Great Lakes and coastal waters during the War of 1812. They rode so low the square riggers couldn't aim their cannon low enough to hit them. However they were vulnerable to musket fire. Apparently it was difficult to find seamen to crew them. Even a few years after completion I still find it an interesting model to look at.
  4. The spar holder looks good. There's a lot of rigging you can do right there - off the boat. For your stanchions and hammocks check out a material called tulle. It's used in fashions and wedding dresses. It comes in several colors. If you don't entirely cover your hammocks with some material the tulle can be used as a webbing - page 21 post 624 in my log. I used white with Niagara and black with my current build. I prefer the black. You can get it at any fabric store - probably online too. Besides protection, the idea of the stanchions and rails was to let hammocks dry/air out.
  5. Nice move - on the mantle. I'm proud of ya! You stayed with it even when things weren't going your way. I sometimes think these builds are a real test of character. Are you considering a case of some sort? Over time these things collect all sorts of debris, bugs and dust bunnies and they are not easy to clean out. i hope you stay with this hobby. There will be up and down periods. Just don't get too crazy with the highs or too depressed with the lows. You have what it takes to be successful. Which all leaves me to get after the completion of mine.
  6. Hey Tom - if it makes you feel any better, I put off rigging for almost a year. I tried to find photos in my log but could not so pardon if I post a couple here. The bowsprit is a good place to start, just so you can start seeing results. The more results you see, the more you may want to accomplish. There is a ton of rigging you can do without ever touching the boat. Almost everything on the masts/yards for instance, at least the standing rig. Take a look at the stand I used. There was a hole for every section of mast. As you can see I grouped
  7. Hey hey - it's a good feeling isn't it? I like how you set the fore main. So what's next?
  8. You might want to start experimenting with rope coils to hang over the pins in the rails. All your rigging will terminate at a pin. Then you want to hang a coil over that. Theres a lot of ways to make coils and you will need quite a few of them. Thats what is holding up my completion. You might try making a mockup pin rail to work with. Getting the coils to hang naturally takes some finessing and you will be reaching in thru the rigging to hang them. This is where those alligator forceps can come in handy.
  9. Rowboat I posted my drawings to your thread. Maybe that will help. I believe your plans are older than mine. Since you have a paid version of the plans I don't think there is any copyright issues in doing so.
  10. ok lets see if i can remember how to upload pix 🤔 - see if any of these might clear things up - note the ref no, i assume my plan is newer than yours. There are still some confusing spots but sometimes if you look for the same rope or block in another drawing it will make better sense. I think the
  11. I will photograph the drawings from my plans and send to you. I dont see that symbol in mine and the jibs are fairly straightforward.
  12. Your plan sheet is layed out different than mine. Your ref no is 80822 - mine is 80837. Probably why I have been confusing you. However I see something similar to your pictures on the big drawing that shows the entire ship from the side. The 2 lines you are referring to are the sail edges - at least on my plan. Very hard to distinguish from a rope except that mine shows the 2 lines terminating at the bottom corners of the sail.
  13. Rowboat - PM me if you want to go thru what you are seeing vs what I am seeing. If you haven't reached rework fatigue. I HATE REWORK - but sometimes ya gotta do it. I'm here if you need it.
  14. Something wasn't sitting well from reading your description of the gaff topsail rigging. I reviewed mine and had a look at the plans again. That gaff topsail yard only has 1 rope seized to the center. That rope runs thru a block at the top of the mast then straight down to pin 46. Try googling ' 4 sided "gaff topsail" ' and it will come up with a few pix of how they hang. I also came across an item that called our 4 sided version a donkey topsail. Try alligator clips for grouping ropes and easily pulling them out of the way. They add some weight so your ropes stay taught. They are
  15. Usually the bracing is the last thing you do. So you don't have to stick your hands thru it. If you haven't seen them before checkout alligator forceps. They can be a huge help grabbing lines from a distance and reaching across the deck. The 5" & 8" ones are the most useful.
  • Create New...