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About mikiek

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  1. The doctors orders? We will both get there one day. Stick with it!
  2. Deck furniture looks great Per. Some day we will finish our builds huh? 😉
  3. The saga continues. Went back for round 2 and ended up breaking a pinrail off the bulwark. That meant unpinning all the ropes to glue it back. Luckily it was just a 5 hole rail. The only good thing was 2 of the pins were glued in, so I had to rip them out. But that means when I re-pin, those ropes are now adjustable. A small win. Down side is 2 of the ropes were already trimmed leaving no chance of restringing them - not enough rope to go thru the hole and pull thru from the underside of the rail. I wasn't about to re-rig a new rope so I tied a few inches of extra rope to the end. That works but now there's a small knot in the line. I think I'll live. The alligator forceps proved their value again - was able to grab the pinrail, apply the glue then reach thru the rigging to the bulwark on the opposite side to place the rail. No other way that could have been done. I'll reiterate in case you missed my first lesson learned here - DO NOT glue pins to rails until the very end of your build. You will need to adjust sails and rigging at the end. In fact, I would suggest paying more attention to the holes you drill into the pinrail. If you get them the perfect diameter where the pins fit snug you probably shouldn't even need to glue the pins at all.
  4. Wow man - I got up some gumption this afternoon and headed to the shop to start adjusting sails. This is really going to take some time. I loosened up a rope so I could bring one side of a yard down to level it and that loosened two rigs on the other side. Tightened those up which loosened the brace. Probably took 30 minutes to get the yard level and now the sail hanging on it has a foot thats too loose. 😣 I'm finding alligator clips to be extremely helpful here. I clip one on the rope I am working with so it's easy find in all the others. Like I said, this is going to take a while......
  5. The rework was worth it. One thing that can help with soldering is be sure the surfaces you are soldering are hot as well. A drop of hot solder on a relatively cold surface will not bond very well. That's why I started using a butane torch for soldering instead of an iron. It's easier and quicker to heat up your surfaces before you apply the solder. If you use a torch you can also switch to silver or even gold solder, which for me seems to work better. And as I mentioned earlier, be sure there is no gap between the 2 surfaces.
  6. Atze99 - I had to rethink the deck for a minute. I did use a stain there, but it is actually a clear stain - Minwax Natural Stain. I use that one a lot in various places on a build. It has no real color, but gives the wood a deeper, wet look especially down in the grain. I highly recommend it especially on premium wood. Your mileage my vary. Always test before you apply to your build.
  7. Hey Rowboat - just reread your earlier post. Most likely you will not want to use a gloss finish. It just gets too shiny especially if you display under a light. Satins are about as glossy as most folks might use. As you mentioned, I think matte is probably the finish of choice. There's a lot of modelling finishes out there, Valejo makes some good ones, but also most of your home finishing products will work too. Just stay away from the shiny stuff. And always give any product a test before you apply to your build. Different woods can respond very differently to the same product. I even go as far as gluing 4-5 hull or deck planks edge to edge on some scrap so you have a big surface to test with.
  8. Thank you Rowboat. Good to see you again. She's almost ready to cross the finish line but it's been hard to get motivated to wrap things up.
  9. Atze99 - I did my best to NOT color anything in this build. I tried to make it look like the cover of the kit box. While it certainly is not realistic, I felt that the colors of the wood are attractive just as they are. I still feel that way. Same thing for the guns - usually we would blacken them somehow. I just left them brass. The deck & hull received several coats of satin poly finish. May do a few more before I call it complete.
  10. Hello Per - just came across this. Is the acrylic glued to the deck? Is that 2 pieces of acrylic? How to you access the components inside? About to dust mine off and take it for a spin....
  11. Good information Toni - I have found the gators to be most useful reaching thru rigging or whatever to grab a line. For instance running a line thru a port side pin rail hole but I can't grab the end afterwards. I have to turn the model 180 degrees and reach across the deck and thru the rigging to reach the loose end. Beyond that, I see your point - tweezer-like tools can be a better choice.
  12. Hey Tom - As you finish out the guns, don't forget to be aware of a few eyebolts/rings that should be on your deck in between a few of the guns. You don't need to do anything with them right now but make sure they are still accessible. I believe there are also a few on the inner bulwark as well. Just make sure you can still reach them.
  13. Yeah - no kidding. I'm ready to buy and still don't see the page. It's 12:13am CDT. No purchase options available.
  14. Will you update your site web page for Flirt then? I realize I am a few hours early but I don't see a way to order.

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