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About mikiek

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  1. Aww man! - I guess I didn't pick up that you were sewing. Just the hems or are you making them from scratch? re: twisted lines, if you wet the lines and then stretch them it can help. If you have the time cut them to length, tie or clamp one end, wet them and then weight down the other end and let them dangle, even for just a few hours - this is before you would rig them obviously.
  2. Hey Rowboat - this is a little late but for future ratlines I just use half hitches all the way across. Tie one to the outer shroud first and then use a dot of glue. work across but don't glue the hitches in the middle - at least at first. Do glue the other outside hitch. You can then slide the inner knots up or down to get them even and then glue them. A lot of people use white-ish line for the rats so they are easier to see. Post #93 in my log shows how to fix a sail to a gaff or yard. It's some sort of lashing but I don't remember the specific name. You will have to do that befo
  3. Hey Rowboat - I was actually out working on E tonite and was thinking of you. You are almost to the point where you are going to have to make another decision(s). As you start to rig (running rig) you will hit a point where you have to start adding sails. The square sails don't fit into this decision but the fore/aft sails will for sure. Think about it - those sails are going to billow out on one side (hopefully). With all the rigging they pretty much have to stay running down the center of the boat but you will want them to look like they are filled. So one question will be what side of the
  4. Aww - we all do that once in a while. I used to insert masts then stick the yards to the masts with that adhesive gum stuff just to see what it all looked like. I would take pix and then then tear it all down.
  5. although be sure your yards have all the items like stirrups, footropes, etc. - if the yards have parrels or something else to hold it to the mast tie one end to the yard and leave the other end be so that you can grab it with some tweezers and wrap around the mast and the other side of the yard - thats the only real tough thing with yards - the rats make it hard to get to stuff at the mast but thats about it
  6. Rowboat - let me know which drawing you are referring to and I can help you decipher it. Sometimes when the drawing is shown from the side there may actually be 2 blocks (side by side) and they only show one. For instance on the rigging page on the big drawing, the head of the lower & middle jib sails each have a block attached to them. However the rope that goes thru each block looks like they both go back to a single block. In fact, there are 2 blocks, one for each sail. The 2 mini drawings that show the jibs kinda show this. One drawing shows the bottom jib and its tackle. The othe
  7. A good start Rowboat. And as for the stanchions and netting - definitely wait. It will really be in the way otherwise. The frapping you did for the guns is called seizing (pronounced sizing) when you do it for things like blocks, lines, deadeyes, etc. As a suggestion for your next build, you might consider a smaller dimension rope for a lot of the seizing. I actually use flyline. It's a scale thing. When you consider that the seizing was done by hand often using rope carried in a belt pouch, it would be a lot smaller than the rope being seized. I did a tutorial on an easy way to seize, I'll tr
  8. This post has been helpful in regards to the pins. I am going to try a different plan. Up to now I have been threading a line thru a hole in the pinrail and then jamming a pin in the hole to hold the rope. I was going to eventually glue the pin in place. That makes it almost impossible to tighten lines in the future if needed. Instead I will try a couple of under and over wraps around the pin, like would be done in real life. Then I'll put a little white glue on the rope to fix it. I can leave almost an extra inch hanging and that should be covered by the coil and the extra will gi
  9. OK - I tried a couple of pins. I will say thank goodness for alligator forceps. They make reaching across a rigged deck a lot easier. They also help with the over/under wrap. Worst part of it all is holding the line tight until the white glue dries. It will be a slow process.
  10. Rich - I think I will probably give what you describe a go. As far as looking better I see your point, but I wonder if this is one of those things that no one notices but the modeller.
  11. Thanks for that Rich. I'm also concerned that reworking with a under/over wrap will end up with me doing more harm than good. Can you get away with just one under and one over? Do you have to hold the line in place while the glue dries?
  12. Well the plan at least to this point was feeding a line thru a hole in the pinrail then jamming the pin in the hole after that. And then of course adding a coil. I guess if I actually did wrap the rope around the pin with a under and over then glue the rope it might not be too hard to get a rope loose later on. And it probably wouldn't matter then if the pin was glued or not. Unfortunately, at this point that is a lot of rework. I will reassess.
  13. Looking good Rowboat. I like the 2 tone hull. It adds a lot of interest. Different plans have different ways of depicting parts. As you have noticed eyebolts are rectangles here whereas on other plans they may be circles. Good plan in getting to know your lines and know what they do. The running rigging will be interesting because in most cases they should actually work - like hoisting a sail or adjusting a yard.
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