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Sizzolo

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  1. Assembled. I included the 1.5" gap which was included on originals to allow for shrinkage (also lets you see the bolts and trenails). Next will be the puddinening (?) around the ring which I'll do once I build a new ropewalk so that'll be a while.
  2. Forgot to say - the anchor is of the size found on a 74 gun ship, late C18th. Holes bored and trenails made: Found a nice image showing the middle 4 were bolts and the outer 6 were 'trenails'.
  3. I should say though that, I haven’t researched them so they could be specific to English ships or a particular short period of time.
  4. Hi mate. yes I think so. I’ve seen them in a few of my books and just walked around one at Bucklers Hard last wk.
  5. Hi all. I’ve managed to distract myself with another project, unfortunately delaying my HMS Diana build but improving my skills. I bought the fantastic Ships Longboat 1690-1780 from Ancre.fr so that I could better understand the rigging for my HMS Diana boats. In the book is some great detail on how the boats were used when anchoring. So - I picked up two more lovely miniatures from Vanguard models but in 1/32 with the intention to show a scene involving a Bower anchor, a longboat, and a lot of cable - helping me with my rope making techniques! I designed the anchor in Blender (3d software) and outsourced the print as I have no printer. I copied the dimensions of a bower from the archives (attached). The stock is carved from African Blackwood. At this scale it’s possible to build the float from 1mm thickness cork which is perfect (then dipped in Stockholm tar… it stinks!). Here’s the progress so far:
  6. Back again! The break was primarily due to my fixation on knowing more about the batten that covers the top edge of the copper plates at waterline. My reference material pointed at an article in NRG Journal Volume 24 (1978!) by Walter J Zimmerman as a reference. I went on to eBay and not knowing the volume has 4 issues I got the wrong one. A few weeks later and after another eBay purchase arrived from America I finally have the article. Unfortunately the article doesn’t provide a reference as to how it assesses the batten width was between 9” and 12”. Not all bad news though - I have a feeling the author may have taken an estimate of measurements from a model kept at Annapolis’ Naval Academy museum, HMS Minerva, which he does reference. I wasn’t aware of this model and given it’s of a ship of similar age and size and photos are available I’ll use that as my reference. My mind can rest easy that I’m not inventing things that may not have existed!
  7. Your question made me question the aluminium foil and think of using lead instead. I found the perfect stuff - self adhesive lead tape that golfers use for adding subtle weight to their clubs. It arrived today and I quickly swapped it out. I think it looks much better and was a joy to apply.
  8. Well I’ll let you know what I find out 😀. I’ve just bought a copy of the magazine from 1979 on eBay so the journey continues!
  9. You could be right. I took the dimensions from a paper called “THE INTRODUCTION AND USE OF COPPER SHEATHING - A HISTORY” by Mark S t a n i f o r t h “Three methods were used to finish off the coppering pattern about 1 foot above the waterline. One method was to have a row of copper plates which ran parallel to the waterline which overlapped the ends of curved rows of copper plates. The alternative methods were to replace the row of copper plates with a wooden batten 9-12" (23-30 cm) wide and a 1 1/2" ( 4 cm) thick or a roll of canvas nailed onto the hull (Zimmerman, 1978: 95- 9) “ However, the Zimmerman reference seems to be an article in an issue of the Nautical Research Journal by a model maker in 1978 and as I can’t find a hard or soft copy of it I don’t know what Zimmerman’s own references were. Do you have any references for narrower ones?
  10. Good quality thick aluminium kitchen foil, sanded down to remove the shine.
  11. False keel finished and lead added to protect the keel from the cable. Design taken from Fincham 1859. Bit late for my 1805 ship but I’m making the assumption things were v similar. It’s also nice to use a real reference instead of guessing: “This keel is fastened to the main keel with short bolts or nails, about four feet apart, on alternate edges, and staples driven into the side, and let in flush, called keel staples, about 2 feet 4 inches apart. …The under side of the false keel forward has thick lead brought under it, as far aft as there is danger of the cables rubbing.”
  12. Progress on the false keel and copper staples. Found a good article indicating the staples were put in before the hull coppering I’m quite thankful of that as I’ve snapped most of my small drills now and it’d be a v tricky job to drill the holes in the main keel every 11mm, through the copper foil
  13. Cheers @Thukydides - that’s why I finished the coppering before adding the false keel. I’ve also read that the false keel was sometimes ‘filled with nails’ but I’ve tried a few ways to represent that and it doesn’t look great - I’ll use dark wood instead.
  14. Finally done with coppering the hull! I’m so glad it’s over! Approx 2,160 individual plates, each with approx 115 nail holes. Total nail holes= 248,400. For this side I replicated the same layout as seen on HMS Victory, (see page 140 in HMS Victory Her Construction, Career and Restoration, by Alan McGowan). They look more pronounced in these photos due to the flash, and I’ve not smoothed them down yet either (a pencil eraser works well). Next I will do the false keel.
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