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Sizzolo

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  1. Well I’ll let you know what I find out 😀. I’ve just bought a copy of the magazine from 1979 on eBay so the journey continues!
  2. You could be right. I took the dimensions from a paper called “THE INTRODUCTION AND USE OF COPPER SHEATHING - A HISTORY” by Mark S t a n i f o r t h “Three methods were used to finish off the coppering pattern about 1 foot above the waterline. One method was to have a row of copper plates which ran parallel to the waterline which overlapped the ends of curved rows of copper plates. The alternative methods were to replace the row of copper plates with a wooden batten 9-12" (23-30 cm) wide and a 1 1/2" ( 4 cm) thick or a roll of canvas nailed onto the hull (Zimmerman, 1978: 95- 9) “ However, the Zimmerman reference seems to be an article in an issue of the Nautical Research Journal by a model maker in 1978 and as I can’t find a hard or soft copy of it I don’t know what Zimmerman’s own references were. Do you have any references for narrower ones?
  3. Good quality thick aluminium kitchen foil, sanded down to remove the shine.
  4. False keel finished and lead added to protect the keel from the cable. Design taken from Fincham 1859. Bit late for my 1805 ship but I’m making the assumption things were v similar. It’s also nice to use a real reference instead of guessing: “This keel is fastened to the main keel with short bolts or nails, about four feet apart, on alternate edges, and staples driven into the side, and let in flush, called keel staples, about 2 feet 4 inches apart. …The under side of the false keel forward has thick lead brought under it, as far aft as there is danger of the cables rubbing.”
  5. Progress on the false keel and copper staples. Found a good article indicating the staples were put in before the hull coppering I’m quite thankful of that as I’ve snapped most of my small drills now and it’d be a v tricky job to drill the holes in the main keel every 11mm, through the copper foil
  6. Cheers @Thukydides - that’s why I finished the coppering before adding the false keel. I’ve also read that the false keel was sometimes ‘filled with nails’ but I’ve tried a few ways to represent that and it doesn’t look great - I’ll use dark wood instead.
  7. Finally done with coppering the hull! I’m so glad it’s over! Approx 2,160 individual plates, each with approx 115 nail holes. Total nail holes= 248,400. For this side I replicated the same layout as seen on HMS Victory, (see page 140 in HMS Victory Her Construction, Career and Restoration, by Alan McGowan). They look more pronounced in these photos due to the flash, and I’ve not smoothed them down yet either (a pencil eraser works well). Next I will do the false keel.
  8. Returned to the copper sheathing after a bit of a break (new job, new rank). On this side I’m using the lessons learned from the starboard side. It shouldn’t be obviously different - just better. Hopefully the next ship will be even better, and so on. Should be finished with coppering this week - then on to the false keel.
  9. All ebony wales done. Hopefully minimal ebony work going forward as I did most of the gundeck hatch surrounds a while ago. Finished making the boxwood top&butt planks earlier (interestingly on the external plank plan, the four rows of wales are replicated underneath the wales by four rows of the same alignment but with planks one inch thinner) so hopefully it’s also the last I see of making those tricky things too! Let me know if anyone’s interested in seeing the jigs I built for making them.
  10. From Fincham: “ Formerly, large frigates and all upwards. were double fastened, …” Diana being a large frigate likely means option D. Soooo… ill leave the wales as-is but will do all the surrounding nails in Option D pattern.
  11. Pics of current progress (past two days). Almost finished the wales. Once these buggers are done the visible progress will be much faster (as long as I make time). There’s a nice transition in colour using ebony between glossy appearance and matte / dark where the trenails are visible under certain angles. I expect this is the only benefit of using ebony. I’ll just be painting boxwood for the rest of the black hull sections.
  12. Progress! Finally! The wales are fitting really well and what’s better is I found a new method of glueing the ebony instead of using superglue! Soak the planks for a few hours in water to loosen up the wood and allow the oils to get out. Then remove and wipe hard with acetone. Lots of the natural oil comes out this way. Try to squeeze when wiping. Then I use the pile drill to make the holes and proceed to glue in all the walnut trenails. When ready to glue into place give the back another wipe with acetone and apply Titebond Original (yellow) wood glue. Press into place and hold tightly. After 3 or 4 minutes I apply some tape to maintain some pressure - and it’s done. Seems quite solid now and so much better than CA glue. Yes, the trenails are barely visible (some are invisible in the pic!) plus I could have done better with some of the alignment (pile drill seems to be where inaccuracies are coming in). I’ll be more cautious when doing the boxwood planks as the nails are more prominent there.
  13. I think I might avoid doing trenails on the hull for the ‘74! (Next project - HMS Implacable which was originally a French ship so I can use Boudroit’s plans, and the rear and figurehead are on display near me for study).
  14. I’ve a feeling this works for the double/single method?
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