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bruce d

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  1. There is a feature on Hacker designs on pages 33-4 of the PDF in this link: https://archive.org/details/ruddervolume00unkngoog/page/n29?q=zipper+hydroplane ... and pages 398, 556 as well. I tried to attach the PDF but it was I believe too large, hope the link works. Aren't these old hot-rod boats great? Bruce
  2. It was. Have you seen this? https://www.vandamboats.com/special-hydroplane-wooden-race-boat/ HTH Bruce
  3. Ron, sorry if I am stating the obvious, but you should be able to save a decent resolution copy of all the digital images in the site. I believe it is the 'Gem billede' button top right of the image and then 'save as' on your PC. HTH Bruce
  4. The English Wiki page for Danish oil is here... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil However, just to spread the news, a few years ago I found that the oil IKEA sells for sealing their kitchen worktops is NOT the same as the Danish oil product we in the UK know. The IKEA oil is similar but has a lighter, more stable colour and is reputed to slow the rate the wood below it changes colour with age. I am about to make some tests and if it does have this magical property I will probably use it on the exposed wood of my model. Christian, I really like what you are doing. Bruce
  5. Carl, that is very useful. I have tried slitting saws in the past on my Unimat saw table and was very impressed with the results when set up correctly. They worked best, in my experiments, on harder woods and left very fine surfaces which needed no sanding. Softer woods were inclined to furring. I have a couple and will try them. Thanks, Bruce
  6. Upgrade time: got a Proxxon FET saw, model 210576, today. I tried it on a few pieces of elm, walnut and pine. Nothing demanding, just carefully adjusted the fence and VIOLA! produced perfect parallel cuts first time. I think I am going to enjoy this, and I will get rid of my wobbly MiniCraft saw (but I am keeping the trusty saw attachment for my Unimat SL lathe). Next job is to find out what blades I need. Bruce
  7. Thanks to all that replied, and especially Gregory for observing that I can leave out a couple of the illustrated components: always happy to find that there is less to do than I had imagined. Bruce
  8. I don't want to put you on the spot (well, maybe a little...) but the first subject in the Petersson book is the only one that affects me: it is "The British Naval Cutter", based on a model in the Science Museum. Is this one of the 'pure nonsense' items? Will I regret using his instructions? Thanks, just trying to get it right and glad I found this pool of knowledge. Bruce
  9. Hello JerseyCity Frankie, Well that got my attention. I was planning on using the book as a guide in my first-ever rigging exercise. Would you mind elaborating? Are all the subjects in the book wrongly described or is it one in particular? Thanks, Bruce
  10. Hello Bava, have you found a way to search within the register? The register pages include the Plan refs (such as G 122 etc.) but I would appreciate any advice on how to search. Great site, isn't it? Bruce
  11. This helps: http://www.orlogsbasen.dk/vistegn2.asp http://www.orlogsbasen.dk/Skibdk.htm http://www.orlogsbasen.dk/smart.htm The last link is a search page that allows sorting by country, type etc (speaking Danish helps but ...) It is a good start. It takes you to a list compiled from the contents of the first page. There is more, I have notes on many of the English ships pointing to plans that are not linked to this page. All this will make sense once you have visited the pages. I have never found an index or search function on the main site that gives the alpha-numeric key to the plans. Perhaps a Danish member can walk us through the process? HTH Bruce
  12. Surface rust can be dealt with by electrolysis. If you haven't tried this process before I am happy to tell you that is very easy and it works. Don't be too concerned about equipment, I have used an old phone charger for the last few years to clean up small items. Here is a good starting point: https://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ HTH Bruce
  13. Hello irishrover1970, As a newbie I also wondered what books/guides were good and what was 'less than' good. I found the Neophyte Shipmodelers Jackstay great, as you will have read in post #14 by JerseyCityFrankie but my education on the subject took a great leap forward when I got 'The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships' by C. Nepean Longridge. This great work explains what the parts of a wooden ship are and how they work together: it finally made sense of many of the other instructions and guidelines by enabling me to understand what the devil they were talking about. I have not reconciled the names of parts of a Viking ship with the names in use by an English shipyard from the age of Nelson, but the book's illustrations are very good at showing what goes where and it can only help. I am making a set of drawings for my modelling subject and it is a LOT easier now that I have that book. Good luck with your model, there is a lot of good advice available here. Bruce

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