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bruce d

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  1. Jan, I think I am going to get the book. Thank you for the advice, I believe 'quite a lot of ship types' is what I need. When I narrow it down I can look for more detail of a particular type/rig. There is so much to learn! Bruce
  2. Hello Nils, perhaps you can find some help here: www.oldmarineengine.com/ Keep up the good work, the boat looks good. Bruce
  3. ‘Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging’ by Marquardt Is this book as good as it looks? Thanks, Bruce
  4. It might be worth phoning/emailing the archive and pleading your case. I have found many (not all) archives have helpful people who can help with small requests. You don't ask, you don't get...
  5. I just can't leave it alone. Found these: Danish digital archive, images F417, F418
  6. Had lunch in the 'Bretonne Crêperie', a very old French creperie in the small Normandy market town of Damville. Our trip through Normandy has so far been great, even the massive mad detour including a complete circle courtesy of Google maps was 'entertaining'.
  7. Have you seen this thread? The piece I put through in the pictures was the maximum the saw would take. I was using an 18 tpi blade and this was a mistake. It started out slow but OK, however the blade was finished by the third log. Now I use an eight tpi blade and it cuts smoothly without overloading the 350W motor.
  8. Excellent idea. Another excellent idea. When the time comes I will I will let you know how this works out.
  9. Of course! How could I have missed it? On the subject of lathes for modelling (I think that was where we started) the Unimat SL collection of accessories was pretty much complete within a few years of the launch. Milling, dividing, collets and thread cutting were all early options and were popular with watchmakers and jewellers as well as model makers. I have an iron bed early model, two mazac bed later models and a bastardised iron bed that was cut in half and 'stretched' by mounting the two halves on a long bed for making drumsticks! I have no idea what I will eventually do with this long-bed beast but I felt sorry for it and gave it a warm home. Maybe masts?
  10. Hi Bob, just a detail in the history of this marque: the Unimat lathes were designed and manufactured by Maier & Company in Austria. The Elliot Machine Company (EMCO) was the UK distributor for the range and had their name on the badge of the models they sold. There was more than one distributor in North America. In my opiinion, the fully equipped SL model, marketed as the DB in North America, will probably never be bettered as a modelmaker's lathe.
  11. James, what is it you want to do with a lathe? And by the way, which part of the world are you in if you don't mind me asking?
  12. This is a very basic tool so be sure it is adequate for whatever you need to do. Some have only battery power and I do not believe any useful work can be produced without the optional mains adapter. I own one, which came as part of a larger purchase in a workshop clearout sale, and have tried a few basic moves on it. It will never be my 'go-to' but it did work. The main chucks use an M12x1 thread which is identical to that used on the original (1950s to '70s) Unimat SL/DB range. However, despite being interchangable, the chuck for the Unimat 1 in your picture is an injection-moulded plastic item. OK for really light work but it was never meant to work hard for a living. It all depends on what you expect to do with a lathe. This is a tool designed to be safe as a child's first serious workshop tool. It will not do any heavy work but it will do light jobs with a good level of controlability, and this may be adequate for your needs. It will not have a long life. I will defer to anyone who has good experience with a Unimat 1 but, personally, unless the price is really low (and your expectations are modest) I would point you toward a 'proper' small second-hand lathe or a Dremel kit (Proxxon if the budget allows). One last warning: some sellers are asking absurd prices for these. Check ebay and you will see a wide range of final prices. HTH Bruce
  13. I suppose somewhere there is a database of which woods make the worst sawdust. I ran some iroko through the bandsaw and then a quick hit or two with a Dremel rotary sanding cylinder to tidy it up. The whole process took less than five minutes: I coughed and hacked for a week. This made a believer out of me, I now use a mask for just about every mechanised stage of cutting wood.
  14. More from the Danish digital collection: https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189068,31896754 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189069,31896804 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189070,31896806 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189737,31916662 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189738,31916754 https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189739,31916873 Thats a lot of stoves.
  15. ... and then I realised that there were even more in this collection: https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/billedviser?epid=17149179#189067,31896643 HTH Bruce

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