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bruce d

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  1. So, am I right in thinking the frames and keel are not glued to each other?
  2. I have been talking to a man who supplies specialist woods. This is not a large and well known source. Here is the situation: he has buxus offcuts that are too small to satisfy his existing customers and are of unpredictable sizes. Personnaly, I would like a handful of these 'scraps' but I think that the opportunity is here to claim a larger amount. If anyone in the UK or EU wants some, for figureheads or whatever, just express an interest so I will know. I have no idea at all what costs are likely to be or for that matter whether there may be some larger pieces available. We can fig
  3. Looking good. Can I ask what wood you are using for the frames and keel? Or did I miss it?
  4. A warm welcome from the UK Stama, it is always a pleasure to hear from a real sailor. Please keep us informed when you start building. Regards, Bruce
  5. Exactly my thoughts. I also have some tung oil which isn't tung oil. It is quite old and doesn't say much on the tin about what else is in there so I would not dare use it on a model. Maybe furniture, but not a model. The video does a good job of explaining the variations, thanks. The reason I homed in on the example you posted is because of the colouring. I would like to knock the 'pink' off of the Swiss pear stock I have. Having confidence I can get the result I want would free me up to use t in areas that will be left bright. As you say, we have some chemists so perhaps there
  6. Why did you have to mention Gouda? Now I wish it had been on our last shopping list. One of my comfort foods is black wax (not red) Gouda with a smear of tomato puree on sourdough grilled in olive oil.
  7. I like the look of the right hand example. My one and only half-hearted attempt to add a finish to some Swiss pear was in the hopes of getting the effect you have achieved. With decent weather returning I will be back in the shop and doing a few more experiments, it would be good to know what substitute product over here would give the same effect. Must admit to being stumped by the product name & description if it isn't tung oil. So, a question if you don't mind: what is the Formby's if it isn't tung oil?
  8. What Bob said. Also, since I'm here, there are a couple of specific points that might underline why I would steer you toward the Unimat SL. First, it is exactly what a small workshop needs all rolled into one. It can be moved around easily. Around 90%+ of what you will need from a lathe/mill for a model ship build can be handled by a DB/SL with a milling column, appropriate cutting tools, a decent 3 jaw chuck and a tailstock chuck providing you have another way of cutting wood to size. The circular saw attachment works very well with a bit of practice but a dedicated saw is better so
  9. Hello Ken, welcome to MSW. It is a great place, I look forward to seeing your Syren. Bruce
  10. Staing the obvious, it appears that the shaft was forced into an undersized collet. Possibly this is not the case and something damaged the correct collet once in place (think of pliers, perhaps mole-grips, you get the idea). Either way, if you do get the collet off, put it straight in the bin. It will never fly again. The collet chuck (nut) may be OK but don't count on it. Since th collet is doomed, soak it in WD40 or or some penetrating oil and then use whatever tools you have to coax it off. The priority is to do no harm to the shaft. HTH
  11. Is the projecting stub the end of the flexible shaft?
  12. Druxey: watching this like a hawk and enjoying it. I know I could wait and see, but can I ask about your plan for the stern? Comparing your last photo in #23 above ... ... with the stern shapes in this photo ... ... I take it the shapes do (or will) match. It may be the photos but the subtle hint of tumblehome on the museum piece isn't obvious to me in the plug. Go on, tell me it's there and I am just not seeing it 🤐. Great job so far, looking forward to the next instalment. Bruce
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