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Sizzolo

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Everything posted by Sizzolo

  1. Sizzolo
    New book arrived - same as the online copy. It’s not on P67 that I saw so it’ll be later in the book. I prefer books to online reading anyway. Definitely doing a new thinner ring. The first was a good test of the method though. Shame, as it’s going to get destroyed when I remove it. We’ll always have the memories I guess! Made a new cable today which is neater and much tighter, and spot on for a 19cm diameter cable appropriate for a British ‘74 in 1/32. I’m getting to grips with the ropewalk now so the rope and cable is a lot better.
  2. Sizzolo
    New copy of Levers book arriving today as I was previously working from an old online version which doesn’t have the same text quoted above. I’ll make a final decision today after reading. I’m thinking if Keckling was effectively worming cable with large rope this could adversely effect the carefully calculated physics of the cable by significantly increasing the weight. If it was laid in open fashion instead of every cantline this would reduce the added weight. Ring wrapping done but I’m still mot sure on thickness. Seems a bit too stout.
  3. Sizzolo
    That’s great stuff Trevor - thanks. More references for me to look in to! Boudroit’s 74 vol 3 p 104 states that serving is aka heckling. P210 references Lever. in Seamanship in the Age of Sail by Harland, illustrated by Mark Myers there is a long section on protecting the cable: essentially it states serving was applied at points of greatest ware, platting was application of plaited sennit and Keckling was worming with 3 inch rope in a open fashion. - same as Ashley 3351. (Thanks for the reference - I had not seen that book and it is available online). I think I’ll go with heckling from the ring, as illustrated in 3351 but will then add two fathoms of serving, then heckling. This should look good on the end model. Pics of the ring progress and test of the cable being wormed parcelled and served.
  4. Sizzolo
    Thank you! I'll take a look. From what you provided it sounds like the cable was also 'served': I'll dig out my copies of Lever, Lavery and Boidroit. B's 74 gun ship books doesnt appear to mention Serving (or worming for that matter!) but I may have missed it.
  5. Sizzolo
    Hmm. Choices choices. So maybe my first cable correct. I’ve looked for specifics of the worm diameter and can’t find any mention of what you’re referring to. Do you have any references to support the idea that the anchor cable would have slightly pronounced worm? It works for me but I’m a bit of a stickler for original references. In theory the c*** line filler should be level with the highest points of the cable, no higher or lower.
  6. Sizzolo
    I’ll eyeball it based upon this pic of Victories old cable.
  7. Sizzolo
    I made the mistake of using trigonometry to calculate the perfect diameter. (Can send workings when back home…having pint time now!). The issue is - nothings perfect. A slight looseness to the cable causes the worm to pop out more. If it was rock sold it would be perfect. Made lots of rope though and the new ropewalk is perfect. It’s super relaxing.
  8. Sizzolo
    Cable now wormed. Gonna have a think about it over a pint but I might use thinner rope for the worm before I apply tar.
  9. Sizzolo
    Ring is likely going to be replaced - tbc. Seems a little too thick once wrapped. wrt the cable - would this not have been wormed and tarred? I’m probably going to do that but can’t find any specific references other than a couple of pictures of HMS victory having a wormed and dark cable a while ago, and the uss constitution model at the Peabody Essex museum in Salem having the same.
  10. Sizzolo
    Update on the ring; New ropewalk built and I’m extremely happy with the results; (19cm diameter 1/32 Cable)
  11. Sizzolo
    Assembled. I included the 1.5" gap which was included on originals to allow for shrinkage (also lets you see the bolts and trenails). Next will be the puddinening (?) around the ring which I'll do once I build a new ropewalk so that'll be a while.
  12. Sizzolo
    Forgot to say - the anchor is of the size found on a 74 gun ship, late C18th. Holes bored and trenails made: Found a nice image showing the middle 4 were bolts and the outer 6 were 'trenails'.
  13. Sizzolo
    I should say though that, I haven’t researched them so they could be specific to English ships or a particular short period of time.
  14. Sizzolo
    Hi mate. yes I think so. I’ve seen them in a few of my books and just walked around one at Bucklers Hard last wk.
  15. Sizzolo
    Hi all. I’ve managed to distract myself with another project, unfortunately delaying my HMS Diana build but improving my skills. I bought the fantastic Ships Longboat 1690-1780 from Ancre.fr so that I could better understand the rigging for my HMS Diana boats. In the book is some great detail on how the boats were used when anchoring. So - I picked up two more lovely miniatures from Vanguard models but in 1/32 with the intention to show a scene involving a Bower anchor, a longboat, and a lot of cable - helping me with my rope making techniques! I designed the anchor in Blender (3d software) and outsourced the print as I have no printer. I copied the dimensions of a bower from the archives (attached). The stock is carved from African Blackwood. At this scale it’s possible to build the float from 1mm thickness cork which is perfect (then dipped in Stockholm tar… it stinks!). Here’s the progress so far:
  16. Sizzolo
    Back again! The break was primarily due to my fixation on knowing more about the batten that covers the top edge of the copper plates at waterline. My reference material pointed at an article in NRG Journal Volume 24 (1978!) by Walter J Zimmerman as a reference. I went on to eBay and not knowing the volume has 4 issues I got the wrong one. A few weeks later and after another eBay purchase arrived from America I finally have the article. Unfortunately the article doesn’t provide a reference as to how it assesses the batten width was between 9” and 12”. Not all bad news though - I have a feeling the author may have taken an estimate of measurements from a model kept at Annapolis’ Naval Academy museum, HMS Minerva, which he does reference. I wasn’t aware of this model and given it’s of a ship of similar age and size and photos are available I’ll use that as my reference. My mind can rest easy that I’m not inventing things that may not have existed!
  17. Sizzolo
    Your question made me question the aluminium foil and think of using lead instead. I found the perfect stuff - self adhesive lead tape that golfers use for adding subtle weight to their clubs. It arrived today and I quickly swapped it out. I think it looks much better and was a joy to apply.
  18. Sizzolo
    Well I’ll let you know what I find out 😀. I’ve just bought a copy of the magazine from 1979 on eBay so the journey continues!
  19. Sizzolo
    You could be right. I took the dimensions from a paper called “THE INTRODUCTION AND USE OF COPPER SHEATHING - A HISTORY” by Mark S t a n i f o r t h “Three methods were used to finish off the coppering pattern about 1 foot above the waterline. One method was to have a row of copper plates which ran parallel to the waterline which overlapped the ends of curved rows of copper plates. The alternative methods were to replace the row of copper plates with a wooden batten 9-12" (23-30 cm) wide and a 1 1/2" ( 4 cm) thick or a roll of canvas nailed onto the hull (Zimmerman, 1978: 95- 9) “ However, the Zimmerman reference seems to be an article in an issue of the Nautical Research Journal by a model maker in 1978 and as I can’t find a hard or soft copy of it I don’t know what Zimmerman’s own references were. Do you have any references for narrower ones?
  20. Sizzolo
    Good quality thick aluminium kitchen foil, sanded down to remove the shine.
  21. Sizzolo
    Battens next to protect top row of copper plates…
  22. Sizzolo
    False keel finished and lead added to protect the keel from the cable. Design taken from Fincham 1859. Bit late for my 1805 ship but I’m making the assumption things were v similar. It’s also nice to use a real reference instead of guessing: “This keel is fastened to the main keel with short bolts or nails, about four feet apart, on alternate edges, and staples driven into the side, and let in flush, called keel staples, about 2 feet 4 inches apart. …The under side of the false keel forward has thick lead brought under it, as far aft as there is danger of the cables rubbing.”
  23. Sizzolo
    Progress on the false keel and copper staples. Found a good article indicating the staples were put in before the hull coppering I’m quite thankful of that as I’ve snapped most of my small drills now and it’d be a v tricky job to drill the holes in the main keel every 11mm, through the copper foil
  24. Sizzolo
    Cheers @Thukydides - that’s why I finished the coppering before adding the false keel. I’ve also read that the false keel was sometimes ‘filled with nails’ but I’ve tried a few ways to represent that and it doesn’t look great - I’ll use dark wood instead.
  25. Sizzolo
    Finally done with coppering the hull! I’m so glad it’s over! Approx 2,160 individual plates, each with approx 115 nail holes. Total nail holes= 248,400. For this side I replicated the same layout as seen on HMS Victory, (see page 140 in HMS Victory Her Construction, Career and Restoration, by Alan McGowan). They look more pronounced in these photos due to the flash, and I’ve not smoothed them down yet either (a pencil eraser works well). Next I will do the false keel.

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