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Everything posted by Drazen
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forgot this: The partner should go till the hatch - so it can be bolted on the beam underneath. Dražen
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well, in the meantime I hat a converstion with Ab Hoving. Seems this part of the construction is OK. Dražen
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Here are the explanations in pictures/photos: plan of the lower deck (overloop) photo of the partner (visser) I made. Please, note that I need to show only a small part of it under the ladders since this could be seen a little. On the photo, you see the bolts I already have made, but I am sure there have been more in order to hold this loaded part safely. Dražen
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Thank you amazone, These will help - especially on the Vasa photo, I can see the bolts on the hatch. Do you have a high resolution proto, you can send? If yes, I will send you a PM with my private email so you can send me these. I meant to fix the partners to the beams, but will need some additional fixation so want to do it historically right. Any photos from the lower deck on Vasa? - there is the real partner (visser) carrying the load of the mast positioned. On the upper deck, there is just a simple hatch - but I also need these photos too. thanx Dražen
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Hello Gyula, I came a little late to this log, but want to mention that I was also playing with the thought to build the former Eendracht (1653), but decided to go with my second choice - De Zeven Provincien (1665) since there were many people did (still doing) a lot of research on this ship before. I still am having a lot to do on my 7P with checking what could be right - and will never be 100% right I know. ... However, how lucky I would be to see these 17th century ships being well documented and built. I wish you a lot of luck and patience with coming as close as possible to the ship you have chosen to present. I admire the Artitec with their diorama. They made so many of these ships in quite nice representation - although not of wood, but it looks great indeed. I personally do not stick too much on Dik, Winter and specially not on Ketting, except for some details. Dik should had done a good job on rigging I heard. The lines by Cor Emke are definitely a good starting point. Also the knowledge by Ab Hoving represented in his books is very fundamental. I will follow your progress with interest. All the best Dražen
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Sorry, i tipped a mistake: not pertner, but PARTNER - on Dutch - "visser" Dražen
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I have a question: Does anybody have some information on how the bolts have been arranged to fix the main mast pertner ("visser") on the lower deck? Also good fotos from Vasa could help. Dražen
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This works extremely fast. If you manage to get a smooth surface (edge) of the needle inside and, you cut in the direction of the grain, the wood will not break. I made 2000 - 3000 in few hours, depending how long I have fun to repeat this, honestly monotonous movements with the precision drill. Dražen
- 487 replies
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Jan, this is a good question... I think it was the time I was not 100% sure if I will let them open or closed, so did most of the lower gunports on one side. I think, I decided not to open them before I did the last two. It is somehow odd but, it is so. You may forgive me for doing to much - things I do not need Dražen
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Yes, a sharp eye! Well, I did not need to make any of the lower except two of them and one on the other side. I am going to keep the lower gunports closed in order to better show the ship line and avoid too much guns showing out. I just do not like this and want to make it a little different. Three gunports on the lower deck will be slightly opened. Dražen
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... testing on a piece of wood... By the way, I was trying to get the greyish surface of oak bleached by sun and wear. For this, I made approx 80 tests - I think, I found now the right combination of mordant and the right procedure. The last photo is just one of the test stripes, not the final solution. Dražen
- 487 replies
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here the method how to make the bolts - I learned it from our Russian colleagues and Dr. Mike. Dražen
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Gunports are ready. On the photo I show the wood I use: lime (hull base), maple (decks), pear (planking, details on the ship), boxwood (sculprures, ornaments) Dražen
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- 487 replies
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- 487 replies
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- 487 replies
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For cutting wood I used the drill press as a circular saw. Now I have the Proxxon FET and this is much (much!) better solution. Still I needed to change some things on Proxxon FET in order to improve the function. Dražen
- 487 replies
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- 487 replies
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Status February 2012, - one year after the start. The hull has been corrected and is now ready for the next steps. Dražen
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- 487 replies
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- 487 replies
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... controlling the shape of the hull with help of the templates. I needed also to add some material on few places. Dražen
- 487 replies
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Anja, really nice to have a woman following my build - great! My method is historically not right, but gives a very solid base for ewerything what will be seen by eyes on the model - and this what will be seen will be historically right - at least I will try to do so. There is a similar method (for me with some drawbacks) our Russian colleagues (Dr. Mike) are using. They also get a solid hull. if you do not show the inside of the ship, and I will not, this makes the life easier. Dražen
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Bruno, what is the base for your model (Friesland) in the gallery – which plans did you use? Is it a scratch or a kit? Can I (we) see the project Narim Maygeldinov is doing? I am curious also about his sources (plans, etc.) since this is one of the biggest issues in my build. How does he mean to do it in admirality – Dutch did not have so strict rules like e.g. English ships? But, maybe a Dutch ship model showing the construction underneath... could be interesting. A great book about Dutch shipbuilding (I also have it) is by Ab Hoving: "Nicolaes Witsen and Shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden Age" Dražen
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