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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Moderator: Please delete this thread. I made a mistake and started a 2nd, separate build thread for the exact same subject. Sorry for the inconvenience.
  2. Thanks Mike. Some of the newer kit releases like this one are coming in with fantastic decal sheets that replicate the 1:1 car and their livery. I'm 90% certain the 1:1 subject is body wrapped nowadays, so the decals are very much similar to the real car in that respect. In the old days gone by, all those graphics were hand painted but no more. The graphics are CAD drawn and painted, then printed out and applied to the car body just like decals. I've even seen videos of the application using heat guns, similar to the hair dryer technique that Dr Rob recommended I use. It worked like a charm. It was tedious work applying all those decals, but it gave a result I could have never achieved otherwise. The Salvinos Jr modern NASCAR kits come with unbelievably good decal sheets. The precolored plastic bodies don't even need painting, just the decals.
  3. Beautiful, it looks amazing, Rob. Top shelf.
  4. I'll start with the engine. This is a 3D printed one from Texas 3D Customs. Very well detailed, much more so than the kit engine which is clunky, inaccurate, and outdated by more modern reproduction capability. Could I get by without it, yes, for sure. But I bit the hook and here it is. I plan on priming with a black primer then using a combination of acrylics, metalizer lacquers for dry brushing, detail paint the engine in the next steps.
  5. Thanks for the kind words. I guess there were about 15 hours spent on the decals alone. Decals were very good. Modern tooling, the fit was very good, so the building time was minimal. Probably 15 hours on the painting, too.
  6. In the photo, there is an acrylic paint marker shown. It came in a set of 24 colors from Amazon for less than $9, delivered. Since buying the set, they have come in handy many times for touching up or painting small parts rather than dragging out a jar of paint and a paint brush. For me, the fine tip gives better control for painting or touching up.
  7. This represents about 40% of the decals placed to complete this model. Thanks to the tip provided by Doc Rob about using the hair dryer to soften and improve flexibility of the decals, the job of placing them was much easier than it would have been without using the hair dryer.
  8. it would be very difficult to build a model that looked more like a real race car than this one. Excellent model, Doc.
  9. The model is now ready for final assembly and decals. All the paint work is done. With any luck, this one could be finished Monday, maybe sooner. I will plan to take the final photos outside. Too much black, it needs a lot of light to get better photos (I think?).
  10. Staying well within my twenty day window to complete this model. Tomorrow will mark one week since project began. Should be able to finish it within the next week, ahead of schedule. This is good because the Testa Rossa needs extra time beyond the twenty days.
  11. Still working on the cockpit and adding a few details. The engine is rather simple and not a whole lot of it will be seen inside the finished model, except what will be visible through the rear glass.
  12. It was a great idea using masking liquid to hold your spokes in place. I wrestled with them, finding the task of attaching the spoke nipples tedious at best. I can see where the masking fluid could have made the task more manageable.
  13. I keep forgetting to try the hairdryer. Thanks for reminding me. I’m going to give it a try.
  14. I started off using Tamiya Markfit strong as my decal solvent for the dash carbon fiber decals. Since then, have moved to Solvaset as there seemed to be some stubborn areas in the decals that needed to settle down, a stronger solution needed. There are no less than eight separate decal pieces that make up the dash and instrument clusters. The first full color decal was used on the spoiler. It seems to be setting up well with the Markfit strong solution. So far so good, but time consuming.
  15. Your thoughts about the civil servant car are humorous. I can imagine how that could influence the way one looks at a particular car for a lifetime. I like your analysis of the thinner to paint/pigment ratio and agree the leveling thinner does just that, it helps to level the pigment and carrier for a smooth finish.
  16. This particular model is an ocean of black, it's that way on the 1:1 car. With the interior now 90% built and painted (flat black), there is not a whole lot to see. Hopefully the plethora of decals will change that somewhat. if not, I may need to give it a little bit of help with some dry brushing in the cockpit area. But even the real car is very black as the photos I will attach can attest. All that carbon fiber gets replicated with decals from the sheet supplied in the kit. The real car: The model at this stage:
  17. This is Tamiya lacquer, LP1 mixed 50-50 with Leveling Thinner 400 for the first three coats. For the last coat, I add more Leveling Thinner 400 to the 50-50 mix, so that it's more like a 60-40 mix, 60% being Leveling thinner. That's where the glass smooth finish comes from, that very last highly reduced coat.
  18. All this will change with the livery decals. Gotta be this way for now.
  19. The lacquer is on, it’s very very black and very very glossy. An excellent canvas for all the livery decals yet to come. I will leave the body alone for a few days while I begin preparing other sub assemblies.
  20. The body and its component parts got a good coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 black. Two panel parts were given a pink Surfacer. Tomorrow, all will give a light polish with 1500 grit sanding sponge and then begin painting the gloss black lacquer. The pink panels will be gloss red lacquer.
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