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CDW

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About CDW

  • Birthday 04/16/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tampa, Florida
  • Interests
    Scale model building of all types; American and world history; science; religious studies; flight; grandchildren; travel; antique car and motorcycle restoration

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  1. It's not as simple as using a CAD plan. To be suitable for 3D printing, special attention is required to massage the CAD plan so it can "guide" the 3D printing process. The holy grail is learning to prepare your own 3D plans so that way you can model anything you wish, but man, that is an intimidating and long process learning to do it not to mention the cost of the drawing software. Purchasing a tried and proven plan such as Yves has done is the way to go, but there are a lot of CAD drawings out there not suitable at all for 3D printing.
  2. I feel bad for the gentleman because he's not likely to get more than a 1/3 of what he's asking for the items, if that. My best guess is he will be lucky to get $200 for the lot locally unless someone feels some compassion and gives him more just as a gesture of kindness. Going rate is .10 cents on the dollar when in a distress sale.
  3. Thanks for your comments Roger, greatly appreciated. I would love to see photos of your updated Revell U-Boot. I have that same set and have never started it. Yours may be the encouragement I need to start mine. If you have questions, I will be happy to answer any if I can.
  4. My grandson and I were looking at the Hood model tonight and comparing it with other battleship hulls in this scale. From top to bottom is Hood, Scharnhorst, Bismarck, Montana (a drawing board ship). Interesting. The Montana would have been a monster size ship had the war continued on longer.
  5. Thanks Roger. I am anxious to see how Flyhawk renders the details in their amazing tooling and injection molded plastic. Their work in that regards eliminates the need for a lot of tedious photo etch work to correct deficiencies in the original plastic molded parts.
  6. With a lot of the hard work put in on the front end, building and painting all the superstructure and armament pieces, the Hood falls together quickly. there will be another slow period adding some of the other small deck details which are plentiful.
  7. Deck wood treatments applied, now ready to begin adding the various superstructure and gun details to the decks. Going to need a larger shadow box for photos of battleships and aircraft carriers. This one was built for model cars not ships, but they are cheap and easy to make from Dollar Tree products.
  8. It's a great primer/leveler, so first coats should be Mr Surfacer. They make it in 500, 1000, 1200, and 1500. The lower numbers give the greatest fill capability for small scratches and imperfections, but it can obscure fine details. I used black1500 on the Hood.
  9. Here’s my interpretation of a gray anti foul hull Hood. The last two photos show how little of the wooden deck shows up under the next deck level.
  10. What do you think about a speculative all black HMS Hood? Just kidding of course. 😄 with the gray paint scheme, am starting out with Mr Surfacer 1500 as a base. Will add progressively lighter shades of gray to give depth and shadows.
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