David Rice
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Everything posted by David Rice
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I still don't understand why a 1/4 inch and not a 3/16 piece of Basswood is needed. Using 3/16 would sure cut down on the sanding. I am pretty much following your build to see how your tackling the problems. So far I haven't broke anything. I am sanding now with professional size Emory Boards instead of my sanding sticks. The Emory Boards have a little give to them, which is easier on the more delicate parts when sanding. Less likely to break something. -
It rained again today. So I started the Gun Ports. Colored my Templates. Found a good use for my mini Alligator Clips. Marked, measured, and made a small template block. I still don't understand why the larger 1/4 is used, and not 3/16. I see lots and lots and lots of sanding in my future. Bending the material first does help.
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After soaking 24 hours and drying 20 hours the 1/4 x 3/16 Basswood Gun Port Framing material looks like a good match. Now the hard part for me, cutting the right lengths without messing up. I also double checked my sanding job. I have such a short term memory problem I need to double check everything now in triplicate.
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Bending the larger 1/4 x 3/16 Basswood Gun Port Framing material was a little more challenging since the larger side 1/4 will be at the top of the Sill. I needed to soak the 1/4 x 3/16 piece for 24 hours before I could conform it to the jig I made. I'll let it dry in place for a few days.
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I did the same thing. I tried to put the frame and bulk heads from the original material together too......I thought I may be able to use it for a scratch model later. No way. About a third of the stems were not even whole! They were hollow! That red plywood material is totally worthless. I am not normally building much in the summer either, but so far our weather has been cool and rainy. My garden is complaining.
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I presume I will use it when planking.
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Just like going Diving. Spent too much time underwater and you get the bends.
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I have been looking at Rich's approach. I have material soaking.
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Questions: 1. The Gun Port Framing material calls for 1/4 x 3/16 Basswood. That seems to be a very large piece of wood for the job, and will require much sanding later. I have some 3/16 x 3/16 material that looks to me to be better suited for the frame. What do you think? 2. The Gun Port Sill has some interesting curves. Would there be any advantage to steaming, and pre-bending (curving) the Gun Port Framing Material onto a jig. Then cut each individual piece to the required length and angle?
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Cut out and fiddled with the Templates. I slightly miss cut the Deck piece at the Bow. If you haven't ever used the scissors that are used in Fly Tying, you should get yourself a pair. The scissors are unbelievably sharp, and have a supper sharp point that can reach into tight places. Warning: The point on the scissors are so shape, that you can injure yourself with it.
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I worked on the lower deck yesterday. Instead of laying the planks one at a time, I glued three long strips of planking material together. I outlined with a pencil as directed, then glued them onto a piece of parchment paper. Trimmed off the paper with scissors. Measured the length, then cut and installed. I really like working on parchment paper.
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Shaping and installing the Bow Filler. With all the filler blocks I used, it's beginning to look like a Chinese Junk.
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"Plugging" away.
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After spilling coffee on my Manual, I decided to cover the pages with Avery Plastic Sheet Covers and put them in a binder. What's nice is that I can remove only the pages I need to work with. I am saving work space, and have the ability to hang up a single page. Spilled coffee, munchies stains, or being a little wild with the glue and paint, no longer a problem.
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Thanks......just like back in college. Read the book. I was always one of those guys who drove all around town looking for something, and never stopping to ask direction.
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Question: Where are the Mast Holes? Shouldn't the Mast Holes be reinforced before the Planks and Deck are installed?
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I spent some time making filler blocks today. Cutting up that $11.99 piece of Balsa Wood almost made me cry.
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I was able to buy a piece of Balsa Wood locally. A 1/2 X 4 X 36 inch piece cost me $11.99 !!! That's more than a T-Bone Steak. The price we pay to live in Paradise.
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Thanks. Before I started getting sick 10 years ago, I was a Wildlife Nature Cinematographer and Photographer. This new hobby of model making has given me an excuse to take a few pictures. Photography is nothing more than the manipulation of light.
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More shaping, sanding and staying on the level. Since the onset of my disability, I have had difficulty with reading and writing. That is why you will get a lot of pictures.
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Too wet and cold to work out in the garden today. So I spent some time sanding and measuring, sanding and measuring. The red finish on the plywood keeps chipping. I know it will get covered up, but it still bothers me.
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I was cleaning out my old Reloading Equipment, and getting ready to sell it. I found a plastic box with small separated compartments which is used for storing rifle cartridges. I removed the box lid. This is the best file, knife, scissor, and small tool holder I have used or ever even seen. Plus, they are real inexpensive. Most Sporting Goods Shops have them for only a few dollars.
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I have the model pretty well cleaned and lined up. After I took the pictures, I noticed I had missed some char in a few places. Looks like fairing the hull is next. I located a small piece of Balsa wood to make filler blocks.
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I have been using sand paper and my Commercial Emory Files. Removing Char residue is not one of my favorite activities. You don't want to get any of the black dust on yourself, or anything else. It stains like Charcoal Briquets.
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How important is it to get rid of the charring? 1. Do I need to get rid of all of it? 2. I am presuming that sandpaper is my best choice of a weapon for the job?
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