mikiek

LOWER SHROUDS AND LANYARDS
 
Well, I finally stepped my foremast. I tied as many ropes on as I could figure out (all of the standing rigging and much of the running rigging) and attached all but the course yard.  Once in place, I started by connecting the lower shrouds.
 
I created a jig similar to the one I used on the upper shrouds. I pulled the shroud tight, and clipped the deadeye with a clamp.  I then took the clamp to my vice, placed next to the ship, and seized the deadeye.  I used three whippings on each.  My forward shroud line was served, thus the larger diameter.
 
I used .012” rope for the lanyards. I haven't tied them off just yet.
 
​My jig worked well and the deadeyes lined up nicely.  It was also pretty efficient allowing me to knock this out pretty smartly.

Looks like you have it. When you flip the boat right side up does the deck go to the top edge of the transom? A rail?

First off make sure you're sitting down    You know it's funny how something that works for me may suck for you. Materials, techniques, whatever.  I realized that I was putting off rigging because I had no idea how I was going to hold multiple ropes, thread on a block or deadeye, tie a knot all at the same time. Especially with these fat fingers. And I thought I had a reasonable amount of dexterity.
 
I've been thru tutorials, build logs and the like but never found something that seemed right for me. I finally came across Ed Tosti's Victory build and the lightbulb went off when I saw his rigging chapter. At least for some of the standing rigging. I'm going to repeat some of it here as I am sure to lose the link.
 
So I started out with scrap of sheet 1/32 thick.
 

 
This is basswood and it began to crack after use. Next channel I will either go to 1/16 or use boxwood.
 
Drill some holes right at the bottom. Stick some wire thru those to help fasten the piece to the channel
 

 
Draw a line parallel to the channel. Looks crooked I know but actually it's the scrap. It's not a rectangle.
 

 
Wrap some rope around the mast head, take the other end and hold it on a deadeye in the channel. Mark where the rope crosses the line on the scrap.
 

 
This is where the upper deadeyes will go.
 

 
Drill a couple of holes at each intersection
 

 
Stick some wire in the holes similar to earlier. Slide a deadeye on the wire. Life just got a lot easier.
 

 
Take the rope to be used for your shrouds. Serve the middle 2 1/2 - 3 inches (the first shroud is completely served and one end is a Burton Pendant). Loop the middle around the mast head - this assumes you have not glued all the mast spars yet. Leaving an adequate sized loop, lash the rope. Hang rope around the mast head. Tighten one end and wrap around the next deadeye.
 

 
Remove the rope from the mast. Use alligator clips to keep the loop
 

 
There are any number of ways to seize the deadeye and the rope end. I used my serving machine. After all, the seizing is just serving 2 pieces of rope instead of 1. Here's a few back on the mast.
 

 

 
And OMG he has some rigging!
 
 
 

SShhh - don't tell the Admiral - kit(s).    Trajta and the Ragusian Cog.  The response time to my emails was impressive. Two to three hours max, any time of day. I also didn't know they had a Canadian distributor.

SShhh - don't tell the Admiral - kit(s).    Trajta and the Ragusian Cog.  The response time to my emails was impressive. Two to three hours max, any time of day. I also didn't know they had a Canadian distributor.

Thank you Elijah. Good to hear from you.

SShhh - don't tell the Admiral - kit(s).    Trajta and the Ragusian Cog.  The response time to my emails was impressive. Two to three hours max, any time of day. I also didn't know they had a Canadian distributor.

First off make sure you're sitting down    You know it's funny how something that works for me may suck for you. Materials, techniques, whatever.  I realized that I was putting off rigging because I had no idea how I was going to hold multiple ropes, thread on a block or deadeye, tie a knot all at the same time. Especially with these fat fingers. And I thought I had a reasonable amount of dexterity.
 
I've been thru tutorials, build logs and the like but never found something that seemed right for me. I finally came across Ed Tosti's Victory build and the lightbulb went off when I saw his rigging chapter. At least for some of the standing rigging. I'm going to repeat some of it here as I am sure to lose the link.
 
So I started out with scrap of sheet 1/32 thick.
 

 
This is basswood and it began to crack after use. Next channel I will either go to 1/16 or use boxwood.
 
Drill some holes right at the bottom. Stick some wire thru those to help fasten the piece to the channel
 

 
Draw a line parallel to the channel. Looks crooked I know but actually it's the scrap. It's not a rectangle.
 

 
Wrap some rope around the mast head, take the other end and hold it on a deadeye in the channel. Mark where the rope crosses the line on the scrap.
 

 
This is where the upper deadeyes will go.
 

 
Drill a couple of holes at each intersection
 

 
Stick some wire in the holes similar to earlier. Slide a deadeye on the wire. Life just got a lot easier.
 

 
Take the rope to be used for your shrouds. Serve the middle 2 1/2 - 3 inches (the first shroud is completely served and one end is a Burton Pendant). Loop the middle around the mast head - this assumes you have not glued all the mast spars yet. Leaving an adequate sized loop, lash the rope. Hang rope around the mast head. Tighten one end and wrap around the next deadeye.
 

 
Remove the rope from the mast. Use alligator clips to keep the loop
 

 
There are any number of ways to seize the deadeye and the rope end. I used my serving machine. After all, the seizing is just serving 2 pieces of rope instead of 1. Here's a few back on the mast.
 

 

 
And OMG he has some rigging!
 
 
 

Thank you Elijah. Good to hear from you.

First off make sure you're sitting down    You know it's funny how something that works for me may suck for you. Materials, techniques, whatever.  I realized that I was putting off rigging because I had no idea how I was going to hold multiple ropes, thread on a block or deadeye, tie a knot all at the same time. Especially with these fat fingers. And I thought I had a reasonable amount of dexterity.
 
I've been thru tutorials, build logs and the like but never found something that seemed right for me. I finally came across Ed Tosti's Victory build and the lightbulb went off when I saw his rigging chapter. At least for some of the standing rigging. I'm going to repeat some of it here as I am sure to lose the link.
 
So I started out with scrap of sheet 1/32 thick.
 

 
This is basswood and it began to crack after use. Next channel I will either go to 1/16 or use boxwood.
 
Drill some holes right at the bottom. Stick some wire thru those to help fasten the piece to the channel
 

 
Draw a line parallel to the channel. Looks crooked I know but actually it's the scrap. It's not a rectangle.
 

 
Wrap some rope around the mast head, take the other end and hold it on a deadeye in the channel. Mark where the rope crosses the line on the scrap.
 

 
This is where the upper deadeyes will go.
 

 
Drill a couple of holes at each intersection
 

 
Stick some wire in the holes similar to earlier. Slide a deadeye on the wire. Life just got a lot easier.
 

 
Take the rope to be used for your shrouds. Serve the middle 2 1/2 - 3 inches (the first shroud is completely served and one end is a Burton Pendant). Loop the middle around the mast head - this assumes you have not glued all the mast spars yet. Leaving an adequate sized loop, lash the rope. Hang rope around the mast head. Tighten one end and wrap around the next deadeye.
 

 
Remove the rope from the mast. Use alligator clips to keep the loop
 

 
There are any number of ways to seize the deadeye and the rope end. I used my serving machine. After all, the seizing is just serving 2 pieces of rope instead of 1. Here's a few back on the mast.
 

 

 
And OMG he has some rigging!
 
 
 

Looking great Don.
 
Zoran must thank you - because of your log I picked up a Maristella kit today.

First off make sure you're sitting down    You know it's funny how something that works for me may suck for you. Materials, techniques, whatever.  I realized that I was putting off rigging because I had no idea how I was going to hold multiple ropes, thread on a block or deadeye, tie a knot all at the same time. Especially with these fat fingers. And I thought I had a reasonable amount of dexterity.
 
I've been thru tutorials, build logs and the like but never found something that seemed right for me. I finally came across Ed Tosti's Victory build and the lightbulb went off when I saw his rigging chapter. At least for some of the standing rigging. I'm going to repeat some of it here as I am sure to lose the link.
 
So I started out with scrap of sheet 1/32 thick.
 

 
This is basswood and it began to crack after use. Next channel I will either go to 1/16 or use boxwood.
 
Drill some holes right at the bottom. Stick some wire thru those to help fasten the piece to the channel
 

 
Draw a line parallel to the channel. Looks crooked I know but actually it's the scrap. It's not a rectangle.
 

 
Wrap some rope around the mast head, take the other end and hold it on a deadeye in the channel. Mark where the rope crosses the line on the scrap.
 

 
This is where the upper deadeyes will go.
 

 
Drill a couple of holes at each intersection
 

 
Stick some wire in the holes similar to earlier. Slide a deadeye on the wire. Life just got a lot easier.
 

 
Take the rope to be used for your shrouds. Serve the middle 2 1/2 - 3 inches (the first shroud is completely served and one end is a Burton Pendant). Loop the middle around the mast head - this assumes you have not glued all the mast spars yet. Leaving an adequate sized loop, lash the rope. Hang rope around the mast head. Tighten one end and wrap around the next deadeye.
 

 
Remove the rope from the mast. Use alligator clips to keep the loop
 

 
There are any number of ways to seize the deadeye and the rope end. I used my serving machine. After all, the seizing is just serving 2 pieces of rope instead of 1. Here's a few back on the mast.
 

 

 
And OMG he has some rigging!
 
 
 

Beautiful work Bob. Looks smooth as can be.

Interesting design. Will you be planking the 2nd layer at the stern?

OK - I get the nails for holding planks. But if you take them out what do you do with the holes?
 
So far I haven't used nails for planking. CA is my 'nail' at the frame and I use PVA down the long edge.

I hear ya Bob. But I can usually find a machine or at least a tool for sanding.

I'm starting to see a trend here. Start to work on rigging, instead dress out a new workbench. Start to work on rigging, instead fix a broken anchor
 

 
Start to work on rigging, instead build another ships boat
 

 
 
Well the cutter is coming along. I am using styrene again for the frame pieces. I did the same on the yawl when I built that. It looks a bit odd by itself but after its painted and partially hidden by floorboards and seat benches I think its acceptable.
 

 
Never realized they were so big
 

Now you have me feeling like a gearhead. Can't finish a build, but the workbench looks cool

Darrell - come on down. Yup it's all HobbyZone.
 
Joel - you could do something like that. The modules have small but super strong magnets in the top, bottom & sides. So rearranging for tasks would be possible. Move what you want and they snap into place. I'm not that sophisticated yet. Right now it's more like files in one drawer, tweezers in another, measuring stuff in another, etc.

I like the label idea Joel. I just didn't want to write on the drawers. They're faced with vinyl so even something like a mailing label would do. Maybe your color coding as well.
 
At the moment I am trying to identify the stuff I use everyday vs once a week or once a month. That's what I want to get within reach. Sadly I'm already seeing that I probably will not be able to completely eliminate the big tackle boxes that I used before.

Julie - I'd be embarrassed to show a picture of it today. Already a mess. The nice thing was that I worked on 3 different builds today - 2 at the same time -  and was able to just move things down or move myself between builds.
 
Bob - the heap is growing already

You're right Bob. It is very well made. There were no bad cuts, all the pieces fit exactly as described. The first 2 modules I pieced together in a dry run first, expecting to have to make 'adjustments'. Those went together nicely and after that I had enough confidence to start right in with the glue.
 
After working with it for a few days, my only regret is I should have bought less 3 drawer modules and more 2 drawer. The usable height of the 3 drawer is slightly over an inch. There were a number of tools that would not fit in those.
 
And I really wasn't joking, at the moment I am lost trying to find anything. Probably several reorgs over the next few weeks.

The new boatyard. It even makes Niagara look a little small. The HobbyZone setup is well made. Took about a day to assemble it all. Now I can't find anything 
 

 

 

 
Was trying to get started with rigging some shrouds - just something to get motivated. I ended up noticing that the mast tops were still needing quite a few blocks. Better to do that now while I can still take the spars out. It didn't help my attitude though - 2 hours to strop 8 blocks
 
 

Thank you Darrell - it's too bad we can't get our builds to float. Might be an incentive to add sails. The company that makes my kit does have one they call a schooner. Not sure if they terminology is correct but it is interesting.

Not a lot of progress lately. I have been working on 2 other projects. Both RC models. One is finished (took it out today) it was pretty much ready to run out of the box. The other is a kit and will take some time. Interestingly, I am having to deck this one  and it is quite similar to what we do. The big difference is the strips are a veneer rather than what we know as planks. I have found that my build experience and tools have been a big help. The designer is very big into using marine epoxy to glue everything. The instructions and video are quite detailed in the usage so that's a valuable bit of knowledge to pick up.
 
Really I think I am procrastinating. Putting off the rigging that I know is coming.
 
Here's a few pix of my distractions:
 

This guy is quite manuverable!
 

 

Hull is 37" and it will stand about 5' tall with mast.
 

 

Niagara takes it out with a broadside.