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mikiek
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mikiek got a reaction from Eddie in Trabakul by donrobinson - FINISHED - MarisStella - 1:32 scale
Don - question from an ignorant beginner, how many teeth in that saw blade? Looks like a fairly low count. I was under the impression that cutting thin strips required a high tooth count. From that, I have been using a 230 count blade. It cuts OK but the teeth really get gunked up.
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mikiek reacted to cobra1951 in Battle Station by cobra1951 - FINISHED - Panart - 1:23 - Also known as Posto Di Combattimento
Assembled the main framework, to keep it square i clamped engineer squares to the upright parts. The bottom cross beams will be removed one at a time and glued into place. Once all three have been glued i will remove the top three beams to allow me access to drill and pin the bottom three where the beams and frames meet, while they dry the top cross beans will be replaced to help keep it all square. when the bottom beams are all dry i can then repeat the process on the top beams
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mikiek reacted to cobra1951 in Battle Station by cobra1951 - FINISHED - Panart - 1:23 - Also known as Posto Di Combattimento
Compared to my Bounty the ply on this kit is luxury
First pieces to make the main 3 frames cut out
I like the fact that the top beams have had the holes for the eye pins already cut out, although they will still need a drill running through to clean them up. Also there are a few burn marks from the laser cutting to clean up as well
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mikiek reacted to cobra1951 in Battle Station by cobra1951 - FINISHED - Panart - 1:23 - Also known as Posto Di Combattimento
This will be my build log for the 1/23 scale Panart Kit, Section Deck Between Gun Bays also know as Posto Di Combattimento.
This is a secondary kit i am building which will be done when waiting for things like glue to dry or things to be sanded (I hate sanding ) on my other kit H.M.A.V. Bounty. So it will take longer than usual to complete.
Checked all the parts out and it all seems to be there but not sure if the Cannon trunions are missing or if they are made of dowel as the parts list doesn't say, either way it's a simple job to sort.
The wood looks to be good quality but some of the metalwork looks a bit iffy
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mikiek got a reaction from Sjors in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
I used to blacken but got tired of getting the black all over everything - it rubs off. Tamiya makes an acrylic paint called Dark Iron and I have started using that.
If you do blacken, one thing I found that helps is after blackening put a coat or two of flat/matte lacquer on it. It seals up the black pretty well. If you remember the carronade pix in my log, that is what was done for the barrels.
I can hold those in my hand and nothing rubs off.
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mikiek got a reaction from mrshanks in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Hey, transom looks good. Don't know if your plans call for it but you could consider some sort of fashion piece. You would have to hand carve it but it is made to sit on that corner of the hull and transom to cover the joint. This pic might give you an idea what I'm talking about.
I got to thinking about the half & half paint/copper idea. I believe several of us have suggested it, my reason was that I hate to see that beautiful wood covered up. What might look pretty nice instead would be to go ahead and copper both sides - doesn't it end right about at the waterline? Then stain (instead of paint) the remaining wood on both sides. A dark stain would give the impression of a black paint job but would add a rich look you just won't get with paint.
Regarding the possible curve of the garboard. Don't forget that even if the gap does start to close up quicker than you anticipated, there are planking techniques to deal with that. A drop plank, where 2 planks turn into 1 right at the bow, can help that situation. I get the feeling you will probably have to do at least a few stealers as well. The deadwood area at the stern looks like it will end up wider than the rest of the hull. No fault of yours, just the design of the boat. I found the basic planking document in the MSW library very helpful in that regard. It gives a good description of what they called correction planks..
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mikiek got a reaction from Sjors in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Hey, transom looks good. Don't know if your plans call for it but you could consider some sort of fashion piece. You would have to hand carve it but it is made to sit on that corner of the hull and transom to cover the joint. This pic might give you an idea what I'm talking about.
I got to thinking about the half & half paint/copper idea. I believe several of us have suggested it, my reason was that I hate to see that beautiful wood covered up. What might look pretty nice instead would be to go ahead and copper both sides - doesn't it end right about at the waterline? Then stain (instead of paint) the remaining wood on both sides. A dark stain would give the impression of a black paint job but would add a rich look you just won't get with paint.
Regarding the possible curve of the garboard. Don't forget that even if the gap does start to close up quicker than you anticipated, there are planking techniques to deal with that. A drop plank, where 2 planks turn into 1 right at the bow, can help that situation. I get the feeling you will probably have to do at least a few stealers as well. The deadwood area at the stern looks like it will end up wider than the rest of the hull. No fault of yours, just the design of the boat. I found the basic planking document in the MSW library very helpful in that regard. It gives a good description of what they called correction planks..
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mikiek got a reaction from Canute in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Well said E.J.
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mikiek got a reaction from Elijah in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Well said E.J.
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mikiek got a reaction from cobra1951 in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Would look kinda cool but then reality sets in. That rail around the cockpit area would be annoying enough to have to step over to get to the wheel. If you had to step over and down? At nite?
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mikiek got a reaction from Elijah in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
First off, that is some gorgeous wood!
It's hard to say because pix don't show the 3D view very well. Not your fault, it's just the way it is. If anything, I would say the garboard may be extending into the bow a little too much. But you can judge that. The key is you don't want the garboard turning up at all at the bow. In your next to last pic it kinda looks like it might be turning up some - maybe just the camera angle. I can say from experience, if it goes too far into the bow (even if the GB looks level) the next strakes will start to turn up.
One view you didn't show was your transom. How is that working out?
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mikiek got a reaction from mrshanks in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
First off, that is some gorgeous wood!
It's hard to say because pix don't show the 3D view very well. Not your fault, it's just the way it is. If anything, I would say the garboard may be extending into the bow a little too much. But you can judge that. The key is you don't want the garboard turning up at all at the bow. In your next to last pic it kinda looks like it might be turning up some - maybe just the camera angle. I can say from experience, if it goes too far into the bow (even if the GB looks level) the next strakes will start to turn up.
One view you didn't show was your transom. How is that working out?
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mikiek got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
You're right Joel and that is a terrible habit of mine. I tend to build 1 assembly from start to finish. VERY inefficient!
With these carronades, I'm doing my best to get all of 1 step done, i.e. cutting the hooks, before moving on to stropping them. Only problem is some of this stuff is so small I can only do a limited number before I start seeing double.
On the good side, there is always lots of other unrelated tasks I can do when I need a break.
You saying your Niagara has no guns?
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mikiek got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
That's what we are all here for.
After I get all the hooks cut and blocks reamed I will have to go back to all the inner bulwark fixtures. I have a terrible fear of missing something on the plans and not being able to fix it down the road.
I'm not sure why, but the carronade thing really wore me out. I may put Niagara on the shelf for a few days and work on Enterprise a little bit - still in the very early stages on that one. The smell of different wood....
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mikiek got a reaction from Canute in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
First off, that is some gorgeous wood!
It's hard to say because pix don't show the 3D view very well. Not your fault, it's just the way it is. If anything, I would say the garboard may be extending into the bow a little too much. But you can judge that. The key is you don't want the garboard turning up at all at the bow. In your next to last pic it kinda looks like it might be turning up some - maybe just the camera angle. I can say from experience, if it goes too far into the bow (even if the GB looks level) the next strakes will start to turn up.
One view you didn't show was your transom. How is that working out?
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mikiek got a reaction from Canute in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Would look kinda cool but then reality sets in. That rail around the cockpit area would be annoying enough to have to step over to get to the wheel. If you had to step over and down? At nite?
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mikiek got a reaction from EJ_L in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
First off, that is some gorgeous wood!
It's hard to say because pix don't show the 3D view very well. Not your fault, it's just the way it is. If anything, I would say the garboard may be extending into the bow a little too much. But you can judge that. The key is you don't want the garboard turning up at all at the bow. In your next to last pic it kinda looks like it might be turning up some - maybe just the camera angle. I can say from experience, if it goes too far into the bow (even if the GB looks level) the next strakes will start to turn up.
One view you didn't show was your transom. How is that working out?
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mikiek got a reaction from EJ_L in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Would look kinda cool but then reality sets in. That rail around the cockpit area would be annoying enough to have to step over to get to the wheel. If you had to step over and down? At nite?
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mikiek got a reaction from Elijah in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Would look kinda cool but then reality sets in. That rail around the cockpit area would be annoying enough to have to step over to get to the wheel. If you had to step over and down? At nite?
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mikiek got a reaction from reklein in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
I used to blacken but got tired of getting the black all over everything - it rubs off. Tamiya makes an acrylic paint called Dark Iron and I have started using that.
If you do blacken, one thing I found that helps is after blackening put a coat or two of flat/matte lacquer on it. It seals up the black pretty well. If you remember the carronade pix in my log, that is what was done for the barrels.
I can hold those in my hand and nothing rubs off.
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mikiek got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
That's what we are all here for.
After I get all the hooks cut and blocks reamed I will have to go back to all the inner bulwark fixtures. I have a terrible fear of missing something on the plans and not being able to fix it down the road.
I'm not sure why, but the carronade thing really wore me out. I may put Niagara on the shelf for a few days and work on Enterprise a little bit - still in the very early stages on that one. The smell of different wood....
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mikiek got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Posted a pic in my log. One coat white primer, 2 coats Deck Tan.
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mikiek got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Forgot to ask - Darrell how did you cut the camfers in the posts for the rails? I have really struggled to get 4 consistent cuts.
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mikiek got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
I went back & forth - wood or brass as it didn't appear that I had enough kit supplied brass. Was going to go wood but a comment in a post I made said the wood can break. I ended up ordering more brass from Model Expo. They don't need any sizing just coloring. Tamiya has a Deck Tan that is about the color of a light wood. So I've ended up with the kit brass pin, painted. You gotta consider that once there is a big coil of rope hanging off, the actual pin will barely be visible.
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mikiek got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
They look good Darrell. When you drop your deck in for a look have you pressed down around the deck edges? When you do that, the deck should end up with a crown that runs down the centerline. Highest at the centerline, lowest at the waterway. I mention this because you will need to sand the fore and aft base of your structures to fit over the crown.
I feel your pain re the nickle and dime sized parts. Unfortunately, there seems to be no getting around it at this stage. You have the right idea by 'walking away' for a day or two.
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