MikeR
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Everything posted by MikeR
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Rob, I have fun doing the metal work especially when it turns out good. ClipperFan, I like doing the rigging even when I snag and break something reaching through the lines to tie something off. Johnny, It must have been something to work the sails in rough weather. I think I would have liked that job. I have started on the metal work for the mizzen topsail yard. I am using my scroll saw to cut the yard truss out of 3mm (.118) copper, then using files and sandpaper to finish it. It would sure be nice to have a metal lathe and milling machine. I have watched several members using these machines doing wonderful work. Especially when I have to make several of the same item.
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Today I was working on the 2 anchors. I cut them out of 1/8 " copper on my scroll saw and only broke a couple of #5 metal cutting blades. I silver soldered the shank to the arm and using files and sandpaper shaped them. I then pickled them in an acid bath and rinsed them in water and then acetone to remove any grease or oil. I used liver of sulfur to blacken them. For the large shackle I used .049 copper wire and flattened the ends and drilled an tapped them for a 1mm screw. Mike R
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Today I was working on the top mast cross trees and when I finished the one for the main mast I temporarily installed it. Only then did I notice that both main mast trees were not perpendicular to the center line of the ship. They were off about 5 degrees. To find out where the problem was I had to remove the mast. So I cut the lashing between the dead eyes and cut both the mizzen stay and main mast stay. I could not find any problems with the mast, when I placed the mast in the mast slot it twisted. Somehow when I added the wood sides on the mast slot they were out of square. I had to sand the bottom of the mast into a rhombus shape and then shim the mast in place. Everything looks good now, so I am back to installing the main mast shrouds. Mike
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Thanks everyone, I appreciate all of the comments. On my wood lathe I turned 56 small stanchions plus a few extras for the taffrail, and installed them and the railing along with the steering box, binnacle and the storeroom hatch. On the aft cabin the iron railing was installed, well brass in this case. I did not like the way the plans show the aft pin rails in the actual taffrail. I added the pin rails to the sides of the taffrail. .
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This is how I made the steering wheel. I do not have an index table, so this is what I came up with. I made a slide table for my Brynes table saw and mounted 2 wooden blocks 1 inch away from the center of the saw blade. I then made a drawing of the steering wheel and extended the centerline of each spoke, and used rubber cement to glue it to a block of wood. I then attached the wood and pattern to the slide table with double sided tape making sure the centerline was lined up to the edge of the ruler. With the blade set to the proper height I made the cut. I did this for the next 5 cuts. I then cut out the center hub and ring with my scroll saw. Then I added the spokes. Using an index table would have been a little more accurate but this worked all right for me.
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Allan The head diameter of the screw is 1.75 mm, the threaded diameter is .95mm, and the diameter of the nut (flat to flat)is 2.4mm MikeR
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Mark I recently purchased 1mm brass nuts, 50 for under $2.00 and 1mm machine screws, 50 for under $1.00 from AliExpress.com The only problem was the delivery time. It took about 8 or 9 weeks to arrive from China. MikeR
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