MikeR
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Everything posted by MikeR
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Here I'm starting to drill the holes for the windows in the aft cabin. Then I'm using my scroll saw to cut them out. The next step was to drill the holes for the window bars, and install them.
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While waiting for the glue to dry for the planking, I have been working on the windlass, chain stoppers and mangers
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Rob, I really like working with dogwood, it is a hardwood with a very fine grain. It cuts and sands well and produces very sharp edges. It is also great for turning on a lathe. I have been planking both the deck and hull.
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The planks I am using for the upper hull are dogwood. They started out as a 6" X 24" log cut many years ago. I cut the logs into 1" boards with a band saw, then ran them through a planer. Using a Byrnes table saw I cut the boards into slightly over sized planks and then ran them through a drum sander.
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After adding a few planks to the bow I used the 3/16" bit to finish the hawse hole. Then I used 3/16" tubing for the hawse pipe.
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Very carefully I drilled the hawse holes, first with a 1/16" bit, then a 1/8" bit and finished up with a 1/8"bit.
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I started laying the deck planking under the forecastle and temporarily added the forecastle bitts.
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I have finished installing the bulwarks, bulwark ceilings, and the knightheads. I started to install the hatch and deckhouse coamings.
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I started to run planks around the stern and did not like the way they went on. I removed them and made a form to shape the 1/16" thick planks, I liked the way they turned out.
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I'm getting close to the end installing the timber heads, and I started planking the bulwarks.
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Rob, the picture of the cut out bulkheads have all ready been tapered. I used 1/4 plywood and the taper needed very little sanding before planking the hull. Tom, I have been using a scroll saw for many years, I use to do arts and crafts shows.
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To keep the vent pipe spacing even I made a simple jig for the hole positions. Push the jig to the right and mark the hole then push to the left and mark that hole. I then drilled the holes and enlarged them to .032" for the vent pipes.
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My next step was to install the timberheads and vent pipes.
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After the bulkheads, bracing and support pieces for the bits were installed I covered the deck area with a thin layer of wood, to make it a lot easier to install the deck planking. Then I added the waterways and planksheers. The types of wood that I will be using are cherry for the hull planking under the copper plates. Dogwood for the rest of the hull , deck planking, and the masts, from trees that died in my yard from a disease that went through our area years ago. Bloodwood for the structure trim and ebony for the timberheads and railings. For the yards I will be using cocobolo.
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Hello all In the early 2000's, I got the model Flying Fish and last December 13, 2021 I started the build. I enlarged the plans 50% to 1:64 (3/16 scale ) to keep it the same scale as my other models. I used rubber cement to glue the patterns to 1/4" plywood. I then separated them with a scroll saw and proceeded to cut them out. I tapered the bulkheads and then attached them to the center keel piece.
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Tally Ho by jwpage - Scale 1:16
MikeR replied to jwpage's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
If you are still looking for a supplier for micro nut, screws, taps, and drills check out Tabco Optical. ( tabcooptical.com ) I purchased 100 M1.4/1.4mm nuts for $5.95 I made eye bolts out of 3/64 rod and used these nuts. I retapped these nuts with a 1.7mm tap for use with 1/16 rod. I enjoy following your build and the purple heart looks great. -
source for steel bar stock?
MikeR replied to Griphos's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Griphos I have been using these clamps and I have had no problems with them flexing. I tighten them as much as I can turn the knurled nut by hand and they hold the deck planks to the beams with no flex. Mike -
source for steel bar stock?
MikeR replied to Griphos's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
These are the clamps
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source for steel bar stock?
MikeR replied to Griphos's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Last week I made a dozen of these small clamps out of 1/4" brass. I drilled and tapped the brass for a 6-32 X1 1/4 machine screw. I then cut small wooden blocks and drilled them to loosely fit the screw head and glued fine sandpaper to the other side. -
Hi Steve I tried to use .005 twisted copper wire for the shrouds on my DN iceboat but they keep breaking. I ended up using .005 stainless wire twisted together and they were much stronger. I had no problems after using them. Mike R
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Hello Ed I have been following your builds since the Victory and they are some of the best I have seen on this site. If this question has been answered before I do not remember. What do you use to clean the copper fittings after they have been installed on the ship, before you use liver of sulfur to blacken them? Mike R
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