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MikeR

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Everything posted by MikeR

  1. MikeR
    I have finished installing the bulwarks, bulwark ceilings, and the knightheads. I started to install the hatch and deckhouse coamings.
  2. MikeR
    I started to run planks around the stern and did not like the way they went on. I removed them and made a form to shape the 1/16" thick planks, I liked the way they turned out.
  3. MikeR
    I'm getting close to the end installing the timber heads, and I started planking the bulwarks.
  4. MikeR
    Rob, the picture of the cut out bulkheads have all ready been tapered. I used 1/4 plywood and the taper needed very little sanding before planking the hull. Tom, I have been using a scroll saw for many years, I use to do arts and crafts shows.
  5. MikeR
  6. MikeR
    To keep the vent pipe spacing even I made a simple jig for the hole positions. Push the jig to the right and mark the hole then push to the left and mark that hole. I then drilled the holes and enlarged them to .032" for the vent pipes.
  7. MikeR
    My next step was to install the timberheads and vent pipes.
  8. MikeR
    After the bulkheads, bracing and support pieces for the bits were installed I covered the deck area with a thin layer of wood, to make it a lot easier to install the deck planking. Then I added the waterways and planksheers. The types of wood that I will be using are cherry for the hull planking under the copper plates. Dogwood for the rest of the hull , deck planking, and the masts, from trees that died in my yard from a disease that went through our area years ago. Bloodwood for the structure trim and ebony for the timberheads and railings. For the yards I will be using cocobolo.
  9. MikeR
    Hello all In the early 2000's, I got the model Flying Fish and last December 13, 2021 I started the build. I enlarged the plans 50% to 1:64 (3/16 scale ) to keep it the same scale as my other models. I used rubber cement to glue the patterns to 1/4" plywood. I then separated them with a scroll saw and proceeded to cut them out. I tapered the bulkheads and then attached them to the center keel piece.
  10. MikeR
    If you are still looking for a supplier for micro nut, screws, taps, and drills check out Tabco Optical. ( tabcooptical.com ) I purchased 100 M1.4/1.4mm nuts for $5.95 I made eye bolts out of 3/64 rod and used these nuts. I retapped these nuts with a 1.7mm tap for use with 1/16 rod. I enjoy following your build and the purple heart looks great.
  11. MikeR
    Griphos I have been using these clamps and I have had no problems with them flexing. I tighten them as much as I can turn the knurled nut by hand and they hold the deck planks to the beams with no flex. Mike
  12. MikeR
    These are the clamps
  13. MikeR
    Last week I made a dozen of these small clamps out of 1/4" brass. I drilled and tapped the brass for a 6-32 X1 1/4 machine screw. I then cut small wooden blocks and drilled them to loosely fit the screw head and glued fine sandpaper to the other side.
  14. MikeR
    Hi Steve I tried to use .005 twisted copper wire for the shrouds on my DN iceboat but they keep breaking. I ended up using .005 stainless wire twisted together and they were much stronger. I had no problems after using them. Mike R
  15. MikeR
    Hello Ed I have been following your builds since the Victory and they are some of the best I have seen on this site. If this question has been answered before I do not remember. What do you use to clean the copper fittings after they have been installed on the ship, before you use liver of sulfur to blacken them? Mike R
  16. MikeR
    Jack They were pre-printed and bought at Michaels an Arts and Craft Store. Now I have to come up with a base to mount it on. Mike
  17. MikeR
    I added the decals to the sail and I ran into a problem , I broke the mast cables. I was using fine copper wire (.005) twisted together and it was breaking at the connection points were it was bent. Now the cables are made of .005 stainless piano wire twisted together and they are much stronger.
  18. MikeR
    I just found this picture from 1972 of my better half and me.
  19. MikeR
    Jack, I should of taken some pictures, but once I started making the sail I forgot. I used vellum drafting paper. I tried to find vellum paper that shows the linen weave but I could not find any. I drew out the sail on graft paper, I then folded the vellum in half so the seam will be the mast side. I use a glue stick to glue a .020 brass wire on the seam and also to attach the battens. I also reinforced the corners with piece of clear plastic. I then used a spray paper adhesive to glue the 2 sides together. For the bottom of the sail I folded a strip of paper and glued a .020 wire on it then attached it to the sail. I then laid the mast over and ran the sail up the slot in the mast. Then the same thing for the boom. All I need now is get a few decals for the sail.
  20. MikeR
    Thank you all for the comments and it was Jacks ice yacht that gave me the idea to build this. I am using a gun stock refinishing oil for the iceboat. This is after three coats. The sail that will be used. The Bluenose in the back ground that I am working on the rigging while the oil dries.
  21. MikeR
    The boom is temporally attached.
  22. MikeR
    Jack, I am thinking on installing a sail. John, This was the second time I'm making the metal works. The first was full size and now a much reduced size. Mike
  23. MikeR
    Thanks Jack, it was one of my first attempts at silver soldering. Here ar
  24. MikeR
    I'm also making 6 small metal blocks.
  25. MikeR
    For the last week or so I have been working on the metal items for the iceboat.

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