6ohiocav

Rob,
 
Welcome aboard.
 
I am a newbie as well working to finish my first ship.  Your question caught my eye since I too want to sometime build the 1/48 Surprise or USS Constitution. Both would be on my list.  However, years ago when faced with the same question you asked, I opted to start small and chose the Niagara. I am partial to war ships, and being from north eastern Ohio, it was easy for me to get excited to build a Lake Erie classic.
 
It is a beautiful ship and I am learning a lot.  It is also about half the price of the other kits, and has yet to overwhelm me.
 
I feel confident that the skills I have picked up will serve me well for the next project.
 
Having said that, there are builders on this site that have tackled the Constitution as their first build and seem to be doing fine. There are also a lot of build logs on the Conny, not so much for the Surprise, so you won't be going it alone.
 
Just my humble opinion. Good Luck and welcome.

Rob,
 
Forgive me, but I did not realize you were from Charlestown. By all means, let it be The Constitution.
 
Technically, it is not necessarily more complicated than smaller ships.  The basic skills are about the same. It is the volume that gets you.  The Conny has a lot more "stuff" Tony's points are well said. Determination will get you there. 

I can tell you exactly what happened before this forum. I was a big modeler in my younger days, but had never built a wooden planked ship.  In the late 80"s, I purchased Artesania's La Toulonnaise. I never got passed the initial stern and transom construction.  I got lost in the poorly translated instructions and with no help in sight, abandoned the project. This site renewed my interest in ship building, and has given me the courage to re-enter the water.
 
Good luck with whatever you decide.

Rob,
 
Welcome aboard.
 
I am a newbie as well working to finish my first ship.  Your question caught my eye since I too want to sometime build the 1/48 Surprise or USS Constitution. Both would be on my list.  However, years ago when faced with the same question you asked, I opted to start small and chose the Niagara. I am partial to war ships, and being from north eastern Ohio, it was easy for me to get excited to build a Lake Erie classic.
 
It is a beautiful ship and I am learning a lot.  It is also about half the price of the other kits, and has yet to overwhelm me.
 
I feel confident that the skills I have picked up will serve me well for the next project.
 
Having said that, there are builders on this site that have tackled the Constitution as their first build and seem to be doing fine. There are also a lot of build logs on the Conny, not so much for the Surprise, so you won't be going it alone.
 
Just my humble opinion. Good Luck and welcome.

Ken,
 
thanks for stopping in and "shining some light" on the topic.
 
I love your grist mill. I was hoping to order some good NC corn meal when it is done!

I sheepishly reenter the water with my fellow Niagara shipwrights.  I have been "lost at sea" for the last three years after my Niagara build (and as I later found my build log) took a raking broadside in a work bench accident causing damage to its stern and keel. More on that later, But I start with a short introduction.
 
I am an amateur woodworker in Northeastern Ohio with a keen interest in military history.  I am a true landsman, with no sailing experience.  I built styrene models as a kid, including Revel's Cutty Sark, and gained an interest in building ship models, albeit in plastic. In the late 80's after graduating from college, and with a misguided motion that I would have plenty of free time, I purchased a POB kit, the La Toulonnaise. My unsuccessful efforts to negotiate the poorly translated, and nearly non-existent instruction manual, coupled with my lack of proper tools and modeling skills, doomed the project from the start. I kept that unfinished kit (I hit a road block at the construction of the stern fillers) for many years.  I now regret that I must have thrown that kit away during one of my many moves and life changes. I sure wish I had it today.
 
In 2011, I rediscovered my interest in wooden ship building after a visit to a tall ships event on Lake Erie where I toured the Niagara. That fall, Model Shipway put the kit on sale, and alas. I found myself back at it. There was one big difference however, While surfing the Model Shipway site, I came upon the link to this Forum. This was a real game changer. I found build logs from expert modelers like Bahama Diver and others that were building the Niagara. While the Model Shipways Niagara has a pretty good instruction manual, the color pictures on this site and the ability to ask stupid questions gave me the confidence to forge ahead.
 
I started my build and the build log in January 2012. I completed the framing and bulwarks (and got past the dreaded stern fillers) by May of 2012. Then disaster! My bench table, an antique drafting table with a swivel top, somehow gave way, and my Niagara in its stern vice, and all of the material, tools and everything you can imagine we carry on our benches, was dumped onto the concrete floor. The fall crushed the stern fillers (of course) and broke off half of the keel.  Surprisingly, there was no other damage, but the mess was extreme. I had just enough energy to clean up the mess, but not enough to continue the build. 
 
Fast forward to today. I was in Boston in December and had the privilege to see the Constitution in dry dock. What an experience. The inspiration of witnessing such a beauty gave me the initiative to take my Niagara out of ordinary and get it back to the shipyard. Of course, I attempted to access my build log, and discovered my ship was not the only thing that took a raking broadside. It was gone by way of the big crash (the administrators need to use live oak to build their hard drives). Since all of my photos were on an old computer that is long gone, I thought the log was a lost cause.
 
I have been hard at work since January.  I fixed the damage, finished the bulwarks, planked the hull and the deck, built the guns and most of the deck furniture, and just about finished the masts and yards.  Here are some photos (forgive the poor quality) of where I am. Nothing is glued down, and is set in place just for the photos.
 
I wasn’t going to post a log, but guilt and finally some luck pushed me otherwise. Over the holiday, I got my camera out for a family picnic and lo and behold, the shots of my build log were still on the camera disc. Since I spend so much time getting tips and help from others logs, I felt compelled to give back. Over the next several weeks, I will be adding the old pictures and recreating the narrative (that is truly gone). And as I go forward, will humbly place myself along side my fellow Niagara builders for the end run.
 

Great question and one that I have given some thought to.
 
I use a desk lamp on a movable arm (with a magnifying lense that I rarely use) with an incandescent bulb on my left. On the right, I have another desk lamp with a shade and normal bulb. My den has an overhead light that I can use as well.  Combined, I can almost eliminate the shadows created by my fat fingers, which to me is the biggest problem. I work during the day and do most of my model work at night, so lighting is always a concern.
 
Since starting this project, I have had to upgrade my reading glasses from a 1X to a 2X. I consider that a battle casualty.
 
An interesting side story.  Earlier this month, we had a power outage.  I think I was rolling rope coils, and decided to finish up using candle light. Thought I would experience what it was like in the 19th century.

Oh, I forgot. Make sure you strop a cold one once in a while to heal the eyes and brain.

Mike,
 
I don't know if this will help, or if indeed you are doing it this way, but I did the task systematically.  That is,
 
1. I made all of my eyebolts at one time (170).
 
2. I then seized all of my tackle loops at one time (80).
 
3. Then stropped all of the single blocks with loops and hooks at one time(80),
 
4. Then the double blocks with hooks (80).
 
5. I then seized all the eyebolts to the breech lines and passed them through the sled and carronade rings and seized the other end to an eyebolt.
 
6. I installed all of the eyebolts into the bulwarks and waterways.
 
Doing these tasks separately gets you into a rhythm, and you get efficient doing it. Only after assembling all of the component parts did I start going down the line to install the guns on the deck carriages.
 
Regardless, seeing all of that intricate handy work blossom on to the deck is worth the effort.  I still have those "did I actually do that" moments. 

I drilled two small holes.  My crew is glad that it can remove the water from the leaky hull! 
 
I have not glued the pump down on the deck yet.  I may wait a while.  This thing is very delicate. One bump, and I think the handle will completely fall apart.
 
How is the "stropping'?

Joel,
 
Your Lexington Rudder is a work of art. That does not look like a laser cut part. What type of wood is it made from.

Bilge Pump
 
This little project taxed all of my amateur skills. Carving, painting, metal work, and soldering. It took two evenings.
 
I started by milling some 1/8 inch square cherry bar stock to make the bits. I filed the chamfers with a micro half round file. Created the base, painted it gun stock red, and glued up the top.
 
Using the bar stock, I formed the rectangular metal band using the 1mm brass straps from the kit. I carefully soldered the ends together, filed and then blackened it.
 
I then worked on the center rod, and the “U” shaped bracket.  I used .05mm brass rods. For the bracket, I flattened both ends of a 3/8 inch length, I carefully bent it with my round nose pliers.
 
Soldering the base of the bracket to the end of a .05mm rod was a real challenge.  I clamped down the rod on top of a granite tile, and attached the U bracket to a pieces of scrap wood that I could hold in my left hand against the end of the rod.  That freed my right hand to do the soldering.  Getting it to line up square was the real challenge. Believe it or not, I actually did it right the FIRST time.
 
Once done, I cut the small black plates for the wooden handle.  I then blackened the plates and the center rod and bracket.
 
I carved the bilge handle out of cherry.  I inserted two of the small brass eye bolts from the kit on the bottom of the handle and attached two sections of 24 gauge black wire for the drivers. I drilled holes on top of the bits to accept the driving wire.
 
Once all of the components were done, I assembled them all together with medium CA. 
 
Here are some photos of the process.

I was able to reuse the gudgeons.
 
I just used Medium CA. I know it is not the preferred method of attaching brass to wood, but it holds well enough for this non moving part.  Besides, it came in handy when I had to remove them for the rework.
 
I have not decided how to attach the pinions to the painted ship hull. Any thoughts on how to remove the small sliver of paint needed for the brass strap without marring the adjoining surface. I only have to scrape a thin strip of paint. I thought about cutting a razor blade to width and using it like a chisel.
 
I came across the same challenge when I glue the pin rails to the painted bulwarks. I hacked the heck out of the surface and spent time repainting around the rails

Rudder and Tiller
 
​​Thanks to Joel's keen eye, I have reworked the rudder by carving the taper.  I also rounded the top and carved the tiller out of cherry. As I am replacing all non painted kit laser cut parts with my own creations, more time is added to the build.  However, in the case of the tiller, the fact that I left the unfinished part attached to the cherry stock actually made the fine carving easier. carving the octagon and then creating the rounded end would have been rather tedious on such a small delicate part.  Using the stock cherry stick as a handle helped.
 
As soon as I get the rudder painted, I will be installing the entire system.
 
Here are some shots.  

Bilge Pump
 
This little project taxed all of my amateur skills. Carving, painting, metal work, and soldering. It took two evenings.
 
I started by milling some 1/8 inch square cherry bar stock to make the bits. I filed the chamfers with a micro half round file. Created the base, painted it gun stock red, and glued up the top.
 
Using the bar stock, I formed the rectangular metal band using the 1mm brass straps from the kit. I carefully soldered the ends together, filed and then blackened it.
 
I then worked on the center rod, and the “U” shaped bracket.  I used .05mm brass rods. For the bracket, I flattened both ends of a 3/8 inch length, I carefully bent it with my round nose pliers.
 
Soldering the base of the bracket to the end of a .05mm rod was a real challenge.  I clamped down the rod on top of a granite tile, and attached the U bracket to a pieces of scrap wood that I could hold in my left hand against the end of the rod.  That freed my right hand to do the soldering.  Getting it to line up square was the real challenge. Believe it or not, I actually did it right the FIRST time.
 
Once done, I cut the small black plates for the wooden handle.  I then blackened the plates and the center rod and bracket.
 
I carved the bilge handle out of cherry.  I inserted two of the small brass eye bolts from the kit on the bottom of the handle and attached two sections of 24 gauge black wire for the drivers. I drilled holes on top of the bits to accept the driving wire.
 
Once all of the components were done, I assembled them all together with medium CA. 
 
Here are some photos of the process.

Rudder and Tiller
 
​​Thanks to Joel's keen eye, I have reworked the rudder by carving the taper.  I also rounded the top and carved the tiller out of cherry. As I am replacing all non painted kit laser cut parts with my own creations, more time is added to the build.  However, in the case of the tiller, the fact that I left the unfinished part attached to the cherry stock actually made the fine carving easier. carving the octagon and then creating the rounded end would have been rather tedious on such a small delicate part.  Using the stock cherry stick as a handle helped.
 
As soon as I get the rudder painted, I will be installing the entire system.
 
Here are some shots.  

Rob,
 
Welcome aboard.
 
I am a newbie as well working to finish my first ship.  Your question caught my eye since I too want to sometime build the 1/48 Surprise or USS Constitution. Both would be on my list.  However, years ago when faced with the same question you asked, I opted to start small and chose the Niagara. I am partial to war ships, and being from north eastern Ohio, it was easy for me to get excited to build a Lake Erie classic.
 
It is a beautiful ship and I am learning a lot.  It is also about half the price of the other kits, and has yet to overwhelm me.
 
I feel confident that the skills I have picked up will serve me well for the next project.
 
Having said that, there are builders on this site that have tackled the Constitution as their first build and seem to be doing fine. There are also a lot of build logs on the Conny, not so much for the Surprise, so you won't be going it alone.
 
Just my humble opinion. Good Luck and welcome.

Rob,
 
Forgive me, but I did not realize you were from Charlestown. By all means, let it be The Constitution.
 
Technically, it is not necessarily more complicated than smaller ships.  The basic skills are about the same. It is the volume that gets you.  The Conny has a lot more "stuff" Tony's points are well said. Determination will get you there. 

I can tell you exactly what happened before this forum. I was a big modeler in my younger days, but had never built a wooden planked ship.  In the late 80"s, I purchased Artesania's La Toulonnaise. I never got passed the initial stern and transom construction.  I got lost in the poorly translated instructions and with no help in sight, abandoned the project. This site renewed my interest in ship building, and has given me the courage to re-enter the water.
 
Good luck with whatever you decide.

Rob,
 
Welcome aboard.
 
I am a newbie as well working to finish my first ship.  Your question caught my eye since I too want to sometime build the 1/48 Surprise or USS Constitution. Both would be on my list.  However, years ago when faced with the same question you asked, I opted to start small and chose the Niagara. I am partial to war ships, and being from north eastern Ohio, it was easy for me to get excited to build a Lake Erie classic.
 
It is a beautiful ship and I am learning a lot.  It is also about half the price of the other kits, and has yet to overwhelm me.
 
I feel confident that the skills I have picked up will serve me well for the next project.
 
Having said that, there are builders on this site that have tackled the Constitution as their first build and seem to be doing fine. There are also a lot of build logs on the Conny, not so much for the Surprise, so you won't be going it alone.
 
Just my humble opinion. Good Luck and welcome.

Bilge Pump
 
This little project taxed all of my amateur skills. Carving, painting, metal work, and soldering. It took two evenings.
 
I started by milling some 1/8 inch square cherry bar stock to make the bits. I filed the chamfers with a micro half round file. Created the base, painted it gun stock red, and glued up the top.
 
Using the bar stock, I formed the rectangular metal band using the 1mm brass straps from the kit. I carefully soldered the ends together, filed and then blackened it.
 
I then worked on the center rod, and the “U” shaped bracket.  I used .05mm brass rods. For the bracket, I flattened both ends of a 3/8 inch length, I carefully bent it with my round nose pliers.
 
Soldering the base of the bracket to the end of a .05mm rod was a real challenge.  I clamped down the rod on top of a granite tile, and attached the U bracket to a pieces of scrap wood that I could hold in my left hand against the end of the rod.  That freed my right hand to do the soldering.  Getting it to line up square was the real challenge. Believe it or not, I actually did it right the FIRST time.
 
Once done, I cut the small black plates for the wooden handle.  I then blackened the plates and the center rod and bracket.
 
I carved the bilge handle out of cherry.  I inserted two of the small brass eye bolts from the kit on the bottom of the handle and attached two sections of 24 gauge black wire for the drivers. I drilled holes on top of the bits to accept the driving wire.
 
Once all of the components were done, I assembled them all together with medium CA. 
 
Here are some photos of the process.

Roger that Joel,
 
Good idea.

Thanks Mike for the note on the rope coils. just another technique that I picked up on this forum.

​Installation of Fife Rails, Pin Rails, Catheads, Boat Davits and Forward Bits
 
​​I finally got around to installing some of the deck furniture that I created over the months and have been storing at the shipyard.
 
I built the Fife Rails out of cherry months ago, and somehow during storage, I lost one of the cross sections for the foremast fife rail. I will have to rebuild it. I pinned and glued the posts with medium CA. It was quite a chore to position them to keep them plumb and square. All by line of sight. 
 
I scrapped my initial pin rails that I built out of basswood and painted red.  I did not like the paint finish. So I rebuilt them out of cherry and finished them with poly. It took a while to scrape the paint from the bulwark. I glued them on with medium CA.  I still have to add the wire support brackets.
 
I glued the catheads in place with medium CA.  I have to add the wire support and knees.I also installed the stern Boat Davits.  All were made out of cherry 
 
I temporarily put the bowsprit in place, and glued the forward bits that hold the bowsprit in place.  I pinned and used medium CA. Getting them to line up plumb and to fit the notch at the end of the bowsprit was a challenge.  I realized that I will have to work on that notch some to make it fit right.
 
I finished all of the cherry parts in a flat poly.  I also finally put a coat of finish on the main rail. I cut them out of cherry as well and I am very happy with the look. 
 
Then I ran into a bit of an issue.  I placed the three stern skylights in place and realized just how cramped the rear portion of the deck is. It reminded me of a tip that Josh sent to me a while back about the interference these structures will have with the capstan. Now that I have positioned them in place, I can fully appreciate this point.  How on earth will my 1:64 scale crewmen operate the darn thing with all of the braces in place. There is absolutely no room to turn it.  Also, the rear skylight is only about 1/4 inch from the rear of my stern carronades, which gives me no room at all to install inhaul tackles.
 
I don't know if I am going to simply lay them down as is, or perhaps only use two, and if so, which ones, or eliminate them altogether. I set them on the deck in the following photos.
 
I will say this.  It is starting to look like a real ship, at least without masts and yards.

Rudder and Tiller
 
​​Thanks to Joel's keen eye, I have reworked the rudder by carving the taper.  I also rounded the top and carved the tiller out of cherry. As I am replacing all non painted kit laser cut parts with my own creations, more time is added to the build.  However, in the case of the tiller, the fact that I left the unfinished part attached to the cherry stock actually made the fine carving easier. carving the octagon and then creating the rounded end would have been rather tedious on such a small delicate part.  Using the stock cherry stick as a handle helped.
 
As soon as I get the rudder painted, I will be installing the entire system.
 
Here are some shots.