TomShipModel

Thanks for the very good advice.  I would assume that you would paint metal parts cast in Britannia the same way.  IS that correct?  Since white metal is known to decay (flower) when it is in a case, I was told that a good paint would help to insulate the part.  I don't believe that you would get that insulation with a blackened part.  Can someone confirm or refute that?

Thanks,

Tom

Good Evening Dan,

Great progress since the last time I saw it. The lift method is a favorite for me if you plan to do a completely planked hull. Keeping the upper and lower hull separate until you get most of the finishing done is also a good way to go. Welcome to the list.

Tom

Ryland,

Great job with the Longboat.  The photographs help greatly and show very well the steps that you are taking.  Your treatment of the basswood makes it look much better.  I have a longboat waiting but, it's a ways back in line.

Tom

By the way, the blocks are 2 mm.

Tom

Good morning weflack,

Thank you for finding these mistakes. It appears that my typing was auto correcting and I wasn't paying attention. Yes, you are correct, it is a hemostat and the glue is CCA (cyanoacrylate). Authentic it's note but, at such a scale, authentic would be tough to do and not look too bulky. Isn't autocorrect word processing interesting?

Tom

I am presently rigging cannons on a 1/8":1' Liverpool. I am using the smallest blocks that Warner Woods West has. I stripped the insulation off of lamp wire and separate the strands. I blacken them. I bend the wire around the block and then twist the wires together using a small geostationary. I then simply push the twisted wires into a hole drilled slightly larger than the diameter of one wire (a 73 drill). I use coca to affix the wire in the hole.

Thanks Wayne. I'll give that a try. What I was trying was to make a set of model plans from PDF that I got from the National Archieves for the USS Achenaur AKA 53.

Tom

I have Turbocad Deluxe version 14.  I used Autocad Lite many years ago to do art work for some photo etch.  The Designers use Autocad where I work so I'm a little familiar with the commands.  Is there someplace where I can learn the equivalent commands between autocad and Turbocad?

Tom

Toni,

This is beautiful work.  I've just picked up on this Build Log today and I am blown away by your work.  It's also interesting to look back to see the progress that was made is so short a time (for ship model buiders anyway).  I'll keep following this for sure.

Tom

I have a model that I have been working on for some time. I've never started a build log but, I'm toying with the idea of starting one now. Do I do that or do I simply put the oldhots etc into the working models gallery?a

Excellent job Jim.  I wish that I could move as fast as you.  I've started too many projects and I need to start finishing something (my Mother used to say that my eyes are bigger than my stomach).  Your progress is really tempting me to get moving on Echo.

Great Maury.  I still have my Echo in the box.  I'll get to it at some point and your build certainly will help.  I really appreciate the jigs and fixtures that you've set up.  I still have two frames from the Baltimore seminar last fall but, they are now object lessons (we start over).  Thanks for posting this.

Thank you for the links.  I first saw photographs of "Implacable" in "the Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" and, at the time, had thought that it was restored somewhere.  Very sad to see it go.  I've seen the stern and the figurehead in NMM.  Is there a publication available that documents or photographs the ship?  It is so hard to maintain a museum ship in drydock and even harder if it is afloat.  Now I've read some advocating cycling through museum ships (replacing old with recent decommisioned ships).   

Jim, Thanks for posting this.  Thank you for your service and thanks to LT CMDR Cook.  While I never served, my Father did, in WW II and I work with many who have.  I have great respect for you all.