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fake johnbull

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    Matsudo, Chiba, Japan

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  1. Embossed transparent acrylic board with printed sea surface underside of it.
  2. Thank you for your comment. Please enjoy attached images. Although smaller size, some of other images of the diorama can be seen at our club website. http://ysmc.la.coocan.jp/kenkyuukai/ken1807.html Maybe photographer of our club will post more images after exhibition closed.
  3. Sidewheel steam frigates led by Commodore Matthew C. Perry of U. S. Navy are popularly known as “Kuro-Fune (Black ship)” in Japan. The influence of Perry Expedition to open Japan is so great, we Japanese living in modern world still use the term “Kuro-Fune” when we faced with economical impact from outside of Japan or even when foreign TV personality comes to Japan unexpectedly. Although sidewheel steam warships were destined to become obsolescent soon by screw propeller warships, the visual impact of gigantic paddle wheels may give much more impression than screw ships of which appearance showing little discrepancy from pure sailing ships except funnel. USS Powhatan was fourth and last large paddle steam warship for U. S. Navy, lunched in 1850, commissioned in 1852. Although she missed opportunity to join Perry’s first expedition, she became Perry’s flagship while she was participating his second expedition. Powhatan also has great connection with history of Japan. Shoin Yoshida’s failed attempt of stowing away to the United States, conclusion of Treaty of Amity and Commerce on her deck and embarkation of Japanese Embassy to the United States are examples of these historical events. I built miniature model of Powhatan for the part of diorama of “Perry’s second expedition and Yokohama”. The diorama is planned and built for 40th exhibition of Yokohama Sailingship Modelers Club which will be held coming September. The scale is 1/400, based on plans acquired from Maryland Silver Company and some images of her model exhibited in US Navy Museum I found on the net. Hull is bread and butter built with 1.5mm plastic card. Coincidentally intervals of water lines appeared on sheer drawing reduced to 1/400 scale is almost 1.5mm! Although bottom hull is unnecessary for diorama, I also built bottom hull which can be separated by water line because I regard hull shape with flare naturally connecting to deadrising from keel as important. Planking was simulated with 1mm breadth masking tape, and copper plates were simulated with copper seal. Dummy butts were pressed onto seal, then cut into strips, and finally attached to bottom hull. Sidewheels and some other parts including tracks for chaser gun were laser cut plywood and card. Laser cutting data was prepared with Adobe Illustrator. Spars were made from brass rods of various sizes. Furled sails are thin lens cleaning paper and seams of sail cloths were printed on the paper. At this moment I don’t have spare time to write building log of her, but I gathered my tweets on her building. Although written in Japanese text, accompanied images will help your understanding. https://togetter.com/li/1252883
  4. James, It is very coincident because I also went to Shizuoka three weeks ago with my Snowberry! BTW, I gathered my tweets on building records of Snowberry. Although all texts written in Japanese, English captions on images will help to understand how I modified the Revell 1/144 kit. Although auto English translation isn't perfect, it also help your understanding. https://togetter.com/li/1194066 Bob, Congratulation to completion of your Vanguard. I started my Bellerophon about a decade ago, but still requiring to finish hull fittings I will refer your rigging when I start rigging my model
  5. Hello James, Thank you for salvaging my topic from bottom of the thread list! Daily life, work and other projects have been preventing me from proceeding the Bellerophon, but I hope I will soon restart her after finishing 1/400 miniature model of US side wheel steamer Powhatan. This model is being built as part of diorama of Commodore Perry's second expedition to Japan. The diorama will be exhibited at Yokohama Sailingship Modelers Club exhibition which will be held coming September. Regards,
  6. Hello Bob and John, Thank you for your comments Bob, thank you for your warning on mast construction, though It will take some months (or many years ) for me till I go into mast construction. It is very appreciate to avoid possible error from others' experience. Also reading discussion between you and Len, I again realized the importance to read instructions. BTW, I'm preparing for presentation at seminar of Yokohama Sailingship Modelers Club of next month and writing resume now. (http://ysmc-world.la.coocan.jp/event/kenkyuukai.html) Of course I will include introducing our forum to club members in my presentation. I really hope both of forum members and club members enjoying our contents each other. Regards,
  7. Hello ZyXuz, Bob and Len, Thank you for your kind words I really realise this is a great place to share our knowledge and experience each other. I myself study many things from other member as I noted time to time. To Bob, Yes, you are exactly right about interpretation on my coppering procedure. If copper plates have nails represented by "stamp" as can be seen on many kits from other manufactures, it would cause some problem when overlapping them. But copper plates included in Victory Models kits are photo-etched ones and have no protrusion on their surface, so overlapping of plates doesn't cause any problem. I separated all copper plates. Perhaps unseparated plates would fit well only to keel and garboard strake because of fuller hull shape of wooden warships, although I maybe try fitting unseparated rows in the case of clipper ship Hope these helps. Kindest regards,
  8. Hello druxey, Thank you for your kind word Before starting of head construction, it was very anxious matter to finish head successfully. But careful procedure resolved everything. Especially template for cathead bracket was the key to successful result. Regards,
  9. Hello Jason, Guido54, Ray, Aldo and Alan, Thank you for kind words BTW, the model was displayed at exhibition of Yokohama Sailing-Ship Modelers Club of this spring. Bellow is link to gallery page of the exhibition. Please enjoy beautiful works of the club members. Of course my model is also included in the list. http://ysmc-world.la.coocan.jp/exhibition/ex2013/ex2013.html Regards,
  10. Hello Mio, Richard, Daniel, Arthur, Dirk and Juergen, Thank you for your comments Perhaps Arthur remember that I'm now working at workshop for deaf people. We are doing small assemblies like pencils, pencil lead sharpeners or paper clops. I sometimes make jigs for those assemblies and it is great joy to see my jigs help deaf people to assemble products easier and faster. Old people said that “Art brings cheese”. Perhaps modelling skill can be said as one of “Art”. Actually skill cultivated by modelling helps me a lot on the job. Regards,
  11. Hello B.E. Thank you for your kind word Although decorations of late 18c ships is surely simpler than those of previous years, they still show very beautiful appearance beside with gentle curve of basic structure of head, quarter and stern galleries. I really like them. Regards,
  12. Completion of head I managed head construction as depicted above. I’m thinking result is not bad and feeling relieved to finish this difficult section. Photos above are of close-up of bow rails. BTW vertical sections of beakhead balkhead columns (part 418) are replaced by Evergreen channel strip because moulding direction of kit photo etched part is inverted. Photo above is showing entire model. These are all I can upload now. I'm now preparing guns for the model. I really hope members enjoy my building log Regards,
  13. Cathead bracket Cathead bracket is one of most difficult parts to determine its shape. Not only its own graceful and complex 3 dimensional curve it should also fit on bow flare with minimum gap. Photo above is of card template for it. transferring of outline from card template to 0.5 mm maple sheet. Maple sheet is cut following pencil line transferred from template. 2mm walnut piece is sandwiched by maple. Lower section between two maple sheets is also filled with walnut piece. Rail connecting cathead bracket and middle head rail was built from pair of 1 X 1mm strip. It is far easier to bend pair of 1 X 1mm strip than 2 X 1mm strip. Bent them with steam and heat from kettle, then after desirable curves were gained, the pair of strips is glued together. Photo above is showing connection between middle head rail and cathead bracket on its position. It was moulded with metal edge pattern and cut to appropriate length and glued to its position.
  14. Continuing of head construction Photo above is of gluing of upper rail. Middle and lower rails are installed. These rails are 2 X 1mm amarillo strip and bent with steam and heat from kettle. I also add moulds to them with metal edge pattern. Photo above is of covering to V shaped timbers. They are 3 X 1mm amarillo strips. I add some moulds to these covering strips as shown on pictures. Installation of lower cheek Symmetry of both sides are checked from directory forward. Perhaps small asymmetry would be discovered by careful examination, but I’m satisfied with the results. Photo above is showing painting of catheads. Blue areas are represented by gluing thin strip shaved from amarillo and painted in blue.
  15. Construction of head Construction of head would be one of most difficult stage of sailing warship model building because of its complex mixture of curved timbers. Fortunately curves of most of these timbers are 2 dimensional and I believe head construction can be achieved with some care and patience. Now let’s start actual consequence with pictures and depiction. Photo above is of dry fitting of figurehead. Before starting of head construction, I had to adjust jointing of figurehead and head. Figurehead provided in the kit are hard cast metal, so cutting of wooden head is only resolution. It is desirable to fit figurehead to head without any gap, but I had to rely on putty. I hope usage of putty will be sealed with black painting. Photo above is of preparing of amarillo sheet. Because of usage of amarillo strip on hull planking, I determined to use same timbers for head construction. I don’t have electric circular saw and had to cut them by hand saw. Section after hand cutting are very poor, and I want to buy table saw someday. Transferring outlines of rails from kit parts to amarillo. Photo above is of cutting sequence. Head parts cut from amarillo. Photo above is showing construction of V shaped head timbers and gratings. Initially I put aft end of aftermost grating on the prow deck. But after some discussion with Arthur, I noticed aftermost grating should be even level with prow deck. Anyhow I recommend to careful test dry fit before gluing of parts. Upper cheek is glued. I noticed that it is easier to construct head rail by settling model at upside down position. Photo above is of hawse hole pattern construction. Holes are drilled to bow. I add thin wood strips to backside of patterns for perfect adjusting to stepping of thick stuff.

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