rtwpsom2

Rigging blocks might be pretty hard in normal scales, being so small. Most PLA type printers only work in resolutions down to .2 mm. A 9 inch block in real life would only be 3 mm in 1/72nd scale. How big are the blocks you are planning on printing and in what scale?

I have a little experience working with wooden ship kits, but my sons always ask if they can help. I'd really like to build my HMS Victory with them so I decided to get this small kit to help them learn some of the principles behind wooden ship kit building. We got started by cutting the Keel and the first four frames out. The older son is the only one that can handle the Xacto knife so he cut those with my help. Both of them got bored with sanding quick but when I pulled out the rotary tool with the sanding drum to do the inside edges, they didn't mind so much. These are just dry fitted right now: The futtocks will be visible in the finished product and I didn't want to leave them blackened from the laser cut. So I thought I might spice them up by adding a veneer to the inner edges down to below the floor. Hmmmm, where to get the veneer? So I decided to test out this little saw I bought off Amazon and see how good it could do. I used one of the thicker planks from the kit to see if the saw could do planks. The result on the sprue plywood: I didn't get pictures but next I tried making a veneer, something pretty thin that I could use on the frames. The result was a few section of veneer. I wasn't able to get any really long thin strips but I did get multiple shorter pieces. Yes I did clean the glue up but not perfectly, I want a nice crisp corner when I trim later. The Result: We have yet to see if that will do anything for the overall model, but it was fun and I can chalk it up to experience for later.

I would, OC, except for the fact that the barn has a gambrel roof, and that wall is sloped inward to match the angle of the roof. In order to raise the desk to standing height I would have to put it at a considerable distance from the wall in order to raise it. And then, when it is raised, the wall slope would still come into the work area. There is also the fact that where it is now I will be able to access both sides of the model without moving it, a fact that, after viewing numerous build logs in this forum, I believe will come in handy. I had considered getting a piece of lexan and a piano hinge and mounting it to the wall above the shelves with the hinge at the bottom, and then storing the drawings behind the lexan with the one I wanted to view on the outside.

Does anyone have suggestions for handling large drawings in a relatively limited space? My work area isn't the smallest in the world, but the drawings that came with the JoTiKa Victory are around 3' tall x 5' wide. I don't have much area to spread them out so I was wondering how you guys deal with them. The workshop/office is in my barn, it's a split level barn that was on the property when I bought it about 6 years ago. The top level was "finished" in that it had been insulated and drywalled, had electricity, running water, and even a phone line. However most of the floor was bare plywood and the part that had a wood floor on it was made from knotty pine and was badly warping. We mostly just used it as storage until I put my office in here about three or four years ago. I have slowly been working on it ever since. About 3/5ths is now a video gaming room with a kitchenette, the other 2/5ths is my office. The bottom floor is storage. The point of this description is that I've spent the last 2 months building the kitchenette and making major changes to the office. I just added two adjustable height desks that can be used as seated or standing desks. One is for work (I work from home), it has my work computer and all my references on it. and the other is now the hobby bench. As you can see, it's still a bit of work in progress. I haven't decided on a floor yet, and I'll probably paint the walls at some point, too. But for now it's enough to get started. Another bright note to this is that I was finally able to unpack my manga collection and put it on shelves. You can see a couple of them against the far wall. I have six of the shelves in total and they are all completely full of manga. You can also see the HMS' Endeavour's Longboat kit from Artesania on the workbench. My two younger sons and I will be doing that kit first in order for them to gain a little experience before we start Victory, which you can see in it's box under the bench. Victory's drawing set is rolled up on the desk, which brings me back to my earlier question, where the heck do I put them and how can I use them without having to unroll them on the floor.

That's just a spare bed I keep in my office for naps. Most of the time it is covered in boxes and stuff.

cough cough cough Oh, don't mind me, just enjoying the build. edit: After going to the manufacturer's website and viewing their model, I should note a couple of things to avoid if you want the model to be accurate. Don't mount the forward boat davits (or the boats) or the bow and stern flag masts. The davits were unshipped when the bow was modified to the Atlantic bow and the flag masts were removed after her shakedown cruise.

Thanks for the support Ebomba and Fright.

Brass Photoetch starting with the largest piece, you can see where it slid down and wrapped around the cardboard backer included with the brass frets. The damage was mainly done to the oars of the long boats, which I might scratchbuild anyway. The green mat has a grid that is 1" x 1" so you can use that for scale. The oars are about 4 inches long, so it's not like they would be a super tiny detail to scratchbuild. Fret 2 fret 3 fret 4, this one is very thick, about three times the normal PE thickness fret 4 details fret 5 fret 6 fret 6 close up fret 7 is the lantern housings fret 8 had a minor amount of curling damage fret 9 as well both of the last two will be pretty easy to flatten out. Whelp, that about wraps up the unboxing. When the longboat comes in I'll make a separate thread about that, so this is the last you'll hear about Victory for a month or two at least, though I might post a few pictures when I complete the setup for the hobby workplace.

Fittings Copper plating guns... guns... and more guns... various fittings in wood, brass, and pewter (white metal) and finally, a clearer look at the paint set getting close to the end...

The Lazer Cut stuff Let's start with the small boats stern parts and gun carriages two more post to go...

The Bulk Material This post will concern the rod, strip, and dowel material that was included. The round stock includes many different types of wood in a variety of sizes. Laying out some of the strip The dowels are mostly made from Birch, while the strip wood is mostly walnut with some Lime and some Tanganika. There is also some brass rod. Rigging thread Anchor Cable I'm including the guns here because there are roughly 3 Kg's of them.

Unboxing cont'd... The drawings set The kit comes with 18 D and E size blueprints to help with construction. dwg 1 dwg 2 dwg 3 dwg 4 dwg 5 dwg 6 dwg 7 dwg 8 dwg 9 dwg 10 dwg 11 dwg 12 dwg 13 dwg 14 dwg 15 dwg 16 dwg 17 dwg 18 to be cont'd...

So I went and done it, I shelled out 1200 simoleons for the JoTiKa/Caldercraft Victory. I won't do to you what I did to the guys at reddit and claim I found it an estate sale for $25 (even though that was really funny). But in all honesty, it's going to cost a lot more than $1200 (kit + paint + shipping). There's also the desk I had to build out of this adjustable height desk frame and this desktop. I actually had to buy two of those sets for a total of $700. One is going to be my standing height work desk with my computer on it and the other is going to be a dedicated modeling station which will probably be solely occupied by Victory once I start rigging it. Then add in the various tools I bought just for Victory, like a mini table saw and cheap rotary tool since my Dremel died (and clamps, lot's of clamps), and that's another $200. Then there is the practice kit I bought. While I have a couple wood ship kits under my belt now, this is a project I want to do with my younger two sons, 6 and 11. I will probably be doing the main stuff, but I want this big project to be a collaboration so when they are older, they can look back and be proud of what we did together. Towards that end, I won't be starting Victory until we have done the longboat. I want them to get a little experience under their belts before they try to help tackle the elephant in the room. So for now, I'll post this unboxing as a placeholder, since I doubt many of you have seen what's inside this kit. The Box: 41" x 12" x 6", 33 lbs/15 Kg The reverse side with the top off Seperate paint set various papers Manual 1; The Hull Manual 2; The Rigging (and small boats) Manual 3; The Parts List more to come...