canoe21

Hi Mates,
 
Minor update, continuing work on the quarterdeck falconets; put together the needed block and tackles. Though I fear that the double blocks may be a size too big – not sure.
 
Ferit, as you can see I added your front framing (thanks for the tip).
 
Used small basswood strips, added a bit of a curve, painted and attached to carriage sides as axle and wheel supports.
 
I’ll post next after these two are installed.
 
Cheers,
 

Excellent details again...
 
Do you think to add there (light green area) a block of wood Michael?
 
( Excuse me for my obsession of asking questions like this...)

Hi Mates,
 
Working on those falconets that seem to have also been on the Vasa.
 
Pic 1 from the 1/10th
 
Pic 2 are examples from Clayton Johnson’s build of all of the various canons that were cast for the ship. Here is a link to all of his work for the cannons (if you care to look) beautiful work
 
https://sites.google.com/site/clayton707/1-10-scale-vasa-artillery
 
Pic 3 falconets seem to have disappeared in more recent photos – hmmm?—
 

 
------- Wheels were cut from dowel. I rolled the dowel, not cutting clear through (for obvious reasons) then just sawed the inner bits. The carriages had been built at the same time that I put together the weather deck ones. 
 

 
Used brass framing to articulate the metal framing for the carriages (simple tools helped) - not sure how to represent their attaching pins? May just let that bit go...
 

 
To be updated…..
 
PS: My big frustration with this ship (and all Vasa kits) has to do with all of the totally incorrect cannons that are supplied. But I understand – there were so many diff. size cannons mounted aboard that it would make this bit of detail cost prohibitive just for the Vasa kit. Let’s see if the DeAgostini 1/65 get’s these right???
 
Cheers,
 
 
 

Edwin, thanks you are so encouraging – as always.  Well there have certainly been a lot of helpful posts with us Corel Wasa builders, which may be helpful to you in circumventing some of this kits glaring errors. Thanks for following along always nice hearing from you.
 
Frank, thanks – I am enjoying following your new project J
 
Jan V. You have been busy building the longboat nice side project. I will certainly use your ideas when I get there. Thanks for your nice thoughts.
 
B.E.  & EJ_L  thanks indeed. It is certainly mutual following along with your projects as well.
 
==============
 
Minor update: Decided on starting to build the two falconets and carriages that are at the quarter deck before moving to the mizzen mast. I’ll post some updates as they move along….
 
Thanks all for your kind clicks and comments,
 
Cheers,
 

Hi Mates,
 
Small update (well for me it’s a big one)
 
Finished up some detail work on the upper railings adding the look of probable attaching nails (should be painted over, but the detail look is nicer IMO)
 
Installed the lower main stays after putting the bits together. (Nigel – again thanks - annealing the brass rivets allowed for easier lip creation on the cut side)
 
Attached the shrouds along with the blocks. One issue that I had – notice the last two photos;
 
The 1/1 has much more rope spacing between the blocks. The 1/10th are much closer together. So took a leap and sprung the bits closer together. I think that they are too close, but so it goes.
 
Now onto building and installing the lower mizzenmast, and its platform.
 
As usual thanks so much for dropping by – always nice of you.
 
Cheers,
 

 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
A lateral update – my usual posts - ha ha..
 
So, I decided to add some detailing to the galleries. The Vasa (based the on super detailed 1/10th) is certainly hard to grasp from a Corel kit.
 
PS: just a thought – Who really knows if the Vasa was as colorful and as highly detailed (art work) as is represented on the museum’s beautiful model.
The actual resurrection galleries, as an example, are very plain by comparison to the model (they appear to be rebuilt as well). So it appears that the goal of many kit/scratch builders is to try to emulate the model’s look. I, then added some detail bits as well.
 
My completed galleries before added details
 

 
Used some extra painted wood bits from the just completed railings. Purchased a necklace, and used the bits for the bobbinets (glue added so that beads would not fall off string when cut)

 
Received from Corel two new weather deck cannon opening trim rings

 
Here are some finished up shots. 

 
Now on to some added detail work for the bowsprit framing.
 
 
This 1/10th pic makes me very insecure Hmmm

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Finished installing the upper railings. As I mentioned in a previous post I had my “issues” installing the horizontal rails on each side of the foremast after installing the shrouds. So that done, as well as some tidying up of the carriage ropes I can move forward and attach the mainmast, and its lower shrouds.
 

 
Now needed to make the bent 90º planks to link the horizontal bits.
 
Well that had its issues as well. Hmmm.
I must have tried to bend 50 pieces (needed 10) All but one plank allowed itself to be bent 90º. Even tried soft wood to no avail. I believe it was my lack of skills, and the extreme bend that was needed?
 

 
So plan B. 
 

 
Last pic I will be pulling out those badly made pulley/blocks now that I have, and know how to (more or less) use my Proxxon MF70 J
Before “moving forward” I plan to revisit the galleries and add some details. This is certainly one of the most difficult areas of this ship to articulate correctly especially with the Corel kit as a base. Not complaining – this has been widely discussed here at MSW with those of us building this ship. I had some left over bits from the upper railings that will work very well.
 
Cheers
 

 

Hi Mates,
 
After drilling the needed holes and squaring them along the lower railings got close to attaching the main mast, and the shrouds, then – for some reason – as I was squaring the last of the railing holes, I decided to attach the needed horizontal rail at the foremast (where the squared holes had already been completed; to be sure that the vertical beams would all align properly when it was time to glue those long horizontal rails on each side.
 
Then realized that having pre-attached the foremast shrouds, before fixing in place the upper rail trim bits was a big mistake.
 
Now trying to align the squaring of the pre-drilled holes, adjusting the heights of the vertical braces is a real pain. Hmmm So before I attach the lower main, mizzen, and their shrouds, I will build all the rest of the upper rails first.
 
PS: Mark I should have gone back to your log (Marktiedens #103) and taken your sequence into consideration. Frank and I had also discussed this issue J we were both concerned about installing the upper railings before all the rigging work in case of breakage later on - (being all thumbs and all) Oh well, still an adjustment work in progress.
 
 
Here are a couple updated photos.
 
Regards,
 

 
 

Kevin, So nice of you to spend your lunch break here. I'm very appreciative. Thank You indeed.
 
Thanks Backer, LevDavidovic, and Woodo in choosing to follow along as well. I appreciate the courtesy on your parts. Welcome to the shipyard. Though you may turn "grey" before its launched for its sinking (:-)
 
=====================
 
Not to "beat a dead horse", but (:-) after my last post regarding the knightshead railings without pin holes, I got curious about why I decided to do them that way. Well going over some photos gave me the answer. 
 
I assumed that the photo below were actual salvaged original parts (they certainly look it). They had no indications of pin holes.
 
I also used this photo for help in adding a single anchor cathead that I mounted on the port side. Its port anchor will be attached later on.
 

Joe, thanks very nice of you - as always : cheers to you
 
Frank, Yes the Vasa is always coming up with changes as they "discover" more errors at the museum. Including the 1/10th photos below.
 
The knigntshead rails (just behind the mainmast has two versions); one with pins, and one without. I built mine without, so the railing is too thick to NOW drill holes for pins. It appears in one of those photos that the ropes are just wrapped around the railing. Its hard to really see details however.
 
Though the Corel sheets do indicate pin holes for both fore and main mast railings. Hmmm ??
 
JanV, So nice- thanks so much you are way too nice. So appreciated indeed.
 
Also thanks mates for dropping and taking a look - always appreciated.
 

Hi Mates,
 
Frank, thank for your comments.
 
Thanks for likes, and dropping by (:-)
 
A few added small time consuming details, as I want to make sure that all needed items are in place before I attach the mainmast shrouds to their deadeyes.
 
Turns out that the pin rails that I had located at the quarterdeck were in error (first early photo). Fred Hocker said, “we got that wrong, those pin rails were added by mistake, it should have been kevels”
 
So pulled them out-did leave some scaring, and then put together a kevel for each side.

 
Used black nylon fishing line so simulate the four mounting cleats.
 

 
Attached the served rope around the mainmast along with the triple pulley. Added a rope trim at the mast base.

 
Made up some single blocks for drilling into deck.

 
Changed the attaching rope to the box for the capstan winding bars. (Though I think their shapes and lengths are amiss)

 
Next need to;
 
Tidy up carriage ropes
Drill vertical holes for upper railing braces
Drill more holes for newly needed belaying pin locations
Make six fiddle blocks and shrouds for main mast stay.
 
Then I can proceed with the 18 shroud attachments.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Ferit, 
 
Will follow the 1/10th
 
Looked at, and tried to make a couple of blocks from scratch to better match the longer and thinner ones as seen on the 1/10th photo just below.
 
Too much work, so took the kit block; minor reshape, better articulated the “pulley” areas, and added some black bands. Along with a second hole drilled to simulate the top lateral pulley.
 
Those black bands I had mentioned in a previous post – they were from a car model. They were self- adhesive vinyl trim from an F40.
 
Cut the strips to size, and then coated the block with clear flat gloss to “lock” the strips into place.
 
Michael

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the likes and the comments
 
Ferit, yes this bit is somewhat "not clear". The 1/10th and the museum's differ. I think that the museum just did a plain single wrap just for the visitor visuals. I then also think that the 1/10th builders decided to execute a more accurate representation of the actual block wrap. ??
 
In any case, I will use the 1/10th as my guide. I will, as I did for the mast rope wraps, use cleats to anchor the two ends of the ropes.
 
Though I also noticed in the 1/10th photo, (just below) - that there seems to be two versions of how the block was attached to the mast. 1) the photo you highlighted. and 2) the other having a loop, then a second rope used for the wrap. Though bothe photos seem to be taken at diff. build stages.
 
I think that I will use two simple cleats and just move on (:-) but, then I'm always changing my mind about things ha ha 
 
MIchael
 

Very nice as always Michael.
 
But I did not understand how that bock has been tied around the mast.

Hi Mates,
 
Have not posted in a while, Admiral has had, it seems like a book of honey do lists. So, in between, have been doing various detail bits before attaching the lower main shrouds.
 
Put together the rope knighthead that sits below in the upper gun-deck, along with its ropes, and block (thinking of re-doing that particular triple violin block to look more like that from the 1/10th) in the photo. Hmmmm??
 
==================
 
Then worked on a kit block that needed some plastic surgery before being wrapped around the lower mainmast
================
 
Finished the main lower platform. I’m very happy with how the lower main mast came out - bit-by-bit moving forward.
 
To be continued…
 
Thanks as always for all of the nice thoughts, likes and just looking…
 
Michael

 
 
 
 

Ferit: Thanks for always dropping by and posting encouraging words. I have to assume, as also with most builders,  the last bits will be the flags.
 
Edwin : appreciate your visits and thoughts - Thanks
 
=======================
 
Working on rebuilding the mainmast lower platform. The one that I had started pre-building (same size as the foremast one) turns out is a bit too small. This one is easier, having struggled through the first two; now have a better grasp on how to make the small bits at a faster clip
 
MIchael
 

Hi mates,
 
So lower mainmast is now completed. Here are some updated pics.
 
Now onto re-building a lower top for the main – need to order some rope from Chuck so shrouds pending.
 
Again – as always - thanks for the comments, the Likes and/or just dropping in for a visit.
 
PS: Nigel your pencil suggestion made such a great diff. Thanks again.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael
 

Frank - so nice thanks so much so appreciated.
 
Hi mates,
 
So all of the bits are finally, cut, glued, and assembled.
 
Segway to pic after detailing, sanding, and adding a bit of stain.
 
Starting some of the finishing detail work;
 
Adding the first of three sets of rope wraps. Looking at the 1/10th, and the museum’s it appears as though they cleated the rope ends to the mast as opposed to a Y-Binding.  So model-railroad bits to the rescue (same cleats that I used on the hull)
 
Also for the metal straps Ferrari parts have come to the rescue. Vinyl self-adhesive strips that are leftover from an F40 that my son and I built from a 1/12th kit. We had fun. I will use that as well as those small cleats at the wrap ends.
 
==================
 
But today came the “acid Test” milling the two pulley grooves. This made me a bit edgy because failure here and a lot of previous work would need to be redone.
 
My main concern was how would the milled holes look on the bottom part of the mast, when flipped over for a look, would they also be correctly centered, and grooved??
 
I remember my first attempts at milling knighthead grooves. Hmmm.
 
But it turned out ok on both sides.
 
PS: I had pre-built a second top platform the same size as the one for the foremast (forward thinking !) 
 
Turns out that the main mast lower platform needs to be a bit larger, and the platform planks are diff. shapes Oh well…see last pic (Corel – of course – has fore and mains the same size parts)
 
Thanks mates for dropping by – I won’t post again until mast it totally completed. 

 
 
 
 

Ferit, - Thanks (:-)
Woodo, Thanks so much for choosing to follow along. Very kind of you - welcome aboard.
 
Updated progress on mainmast;
 
Slid-in that middle sleeve filler at upper part of joined mast halves.
 
Cut the end bits which will house the pulleys
 
Measured the needed angle so that the crow’s nest will remain horizontal given the rake of the mainmast.
 
X’d out where I needed to cut the indentation groove to fit the two side half pulley bits.
 
Measured where I should glue the first piece allowing room for the platform cross braces.
 
Glued the first one.
 
PS: I think that my measurements were a bit off at the mast part that will be above the platform base. Looks too short? I will have to be creative when I add the mast cap and the metal sleeve that will wrap around the mast just under the cap. Hmmm L
 
====================
 
Next update will be sometime AFTER tonight’s most important worldwide event. GØT Season 6 Premiere. - John better show up !!
 
Cheers,
 
 
Michael
 

 
 

Next incremental steps for the mainmast;
 
Again pics. are self explanatory.
 
===================
 
Next steps will be to continue shaping the first two side bits, and need to cut grooves for the crow’s-nest cross-braces.
 
Then onto the last two wood bits which will become the outer halves of the pulley framing.
 
PS: These clamps are so excellent – Super strong secure grip. Perfect in this instance  (Amazon)
 
Regards,
 
Michael

 

Continuing with the mainmast;
 
Needed to approximate the length for the laterally mounted sidepieces that will include the two pulleys.
 
That done, penciled in where mast cutout areas should be.
 
Photos are self-explanatory so  keeping this update brief.  So far so good - Glad that I did not have to start all over again
 
Nice to get back to wood (as I keep repeating J)
 
Now onto the side pieces. This will most likely be a bit more complicated..
 

 
 
 
 

HI Mates,
 
Quick back-to-back update; used the “Nigel Method” to simulate the tarring of the main mast pieces.
 
Very happy with how it is coming out. Big thanks Nigel. I was going to use black paper or something. The pencil and glue idea is perfect.
 
Still a work in progress, mast is dusty from sanding. I also plan to use a light stain to darken it a bit. That dowel is too white. OK now for the top part bits. And cap.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 

 
I think that the Museum used filler pieces that were probably missing after recovery. 
 

 
 

where does my time go to, last post was september, and since then modeling has been restrited to the SD14, But the mancave has had a revamp in the last couple of weeks just need to sort some shelfs out, spent the last couple of days on plastic, to see if my mojo is back for another stint on the VIC and it is
 
 
 
 

the repair survived 24 hours, so im happy with it, 

Good evening everyone
 
more progress, on a bit of a roll at present, all the ratlines are now completed,as well as all of the backstays, but was not happy with some of the upper stays so at present they are being re-done, newt week, I am hoping to make another flying Jib