Kevin

Vanguard Models @chris watton is presently selling a limited stock of the Viking longship Oseberg, at 1/24 is a nice size

Thanks guys, i believe from what @James H has said, the there is quite a difference for the better on the V3

Day 1 building jigs made from mdf, the instructions are easy to follow, but, not all steps are covered, and some of the parts are different shapes to that shown, ideally, the best bet is to work alongside the excellent online video Jig 2 is used after the keel and frames have been removed from jig 1 the hull is turned upside-down placed on top to allow hull planking

Good evening everyone Having recently completed two large builds, Belle Poule and Indefatigable, and jumping straight in with the Santissima Trinidad, i wanted a quick build, just to reset myself, i wasnt even going to create a log, it was to be a build going on in the background, something i could play about with and if it went all wrong, no one would ever know, well what changed your mind, I hear everyone ask? well space, to do this the ST had to be put away, therefore for as long as this takes me, the other log has to wait. i bought the kit from @chris watton at Vanguard Models a few weeks ago and started her 3 days ago, so far i am real impressed, very heavy box, most of the weight though is from the MDF which makes up the two slipways, i actually built both of these up on day one, so lets go on another of Kevin's messy and cluttered journey, as i tackle this project

1:25 Drakkar ‘Oseberg’ V3 History It is believed that the word “drakkar” originates from the Old Norse words “dreki” and “kar,” which mean “dragon” and “ship,” respectively. The warship acquired this name because the head of a dragon or another mythical creature (like Jormungandr) usually adorned the ship’s bow. The shape of the ship was also long and narrow, resembling a sea serpent. The Vikings constructed drakkars out of pine, oak, or ash wood. They used a special technique for splitting trees along the grain. They then watered the planks and held them above a fire to make them more flexible. The shipbuilders put the parts of the ship together with iron rivets and nails and bound them with cords and ropes. After that, they tarred the whole structure and caulked it by plugging holes and gaps and making the seams watertight. The sail was rectangular or square. It was made of sheep’s wool and covered with grease so that it didn’t get drenched. If there wasn’t a fair wind, the Vikings used oars – 20 to 35 pairs of them. In the Viking age, few ships could compete with a drakkar in terms of sheer speed, but drakkars were also very nimble. Thanks to the drakkar’s shallow draft, the Northmen could easily sail along rivers and fjords. They could land in places that were very difficult to access and attack their enemies unexpectedly. These warships were also barely visible between the waves because of their low sides. This helped the Vikings catch their enemies unawares, even in the open sea. Drakkars were created for more than just war, however. They were solid and capacious, so the Vikings sometimes used them for trade and to transport goods, but more often these ships were used for sailing long distances. How far did the Vikings travel? They reached the shores of Iceland, Greenland, and North America, to name but a few destinations. copied from the kit review by @James H the full review can be found here 1:25 Drakkar ‘Oseberg’ V3 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin - REVIEWS: Model kits - Model Ship World™

i have paid the bale money, you are free to leave the white coated community love the green, the dremmel has certainly helped with the stern shape

i love this build, something different, and well built

good morning everyone thank you for comments and likes Wednesday day 22 having marked out where the gunports go, a lot of them have been rebated to accept the lids in the shut/closed position, i quickly realised these lids are going to have to be put on at a later date, because i was finding that the sanding of the hull was hiding them. Not regretting doing them like this, but i can understand people questioning my logic behind it, (lol i dont want all guns run out, when under full sail). lots of paint added, and i am still sanding areas that refuse to look good, lower wale added to just give me the warm fuzzy feeling that i have most things in the right place this idea does not work for me, putting the lids on and then finishing the hull, as the gaps fill up and they become invisible

in a continuation to this thread, Victory had, vents fitted, was this common practice,

even worse, she is a 4 decker

Good evening everyone, thank you for comments and likes day 19- a recipe for disaster but so far avoided- hinged gunports Come on AL there has to be a better way for a gunport template I copied the template onto printer paper, cut them out and built them up on the original template, took a lot of messing around to hopefully have them in the right place as non of these are going to be open, i just had to remove the top planking, this side has now been roughly removed, and require some tidying up to get the lids to fit free flood ports still to be marked out

good evening everyone thank you for comments and likes Day 18 completed 2nd planking not in a hurry to do that again, double planking using 1mm x 5mm used appx 150 meters sanded using 240 grit, will do again later with a finer grade after touching up a few places, like the stern where the rudder post will eventually go, worse to come soon (gunports)

there is certainly nothing wrong with that, it looks fantastic

i will still have to rebate the lids into 2nd planking, but none of the 140 odd liners needed, apart from the upper deck ones, i doubt very much that with a full set of sails there would be many lids open, Sails to get right will be the issue on this build, was going to do then on a 1/64 Cutty Sark, but thats not available for now