Jump to content

Williamo

Members
  • Posts

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Williamo

  1. Thanks Roger. Just got my copy of Jean Le Bot's book, complete with drawings! Excellent! Thanks again for the suggestion.Williamo
  2. Hi . I have used Bentley Microstation and Autocad professionally for the last 25 years. Now I'm not working on contract anymore, I don't have access to those programs, so I am looking at less expensive options for lofting. Can an experienced Fusion 360 user let me know if F360 handles Béziers curves adequately, and is it necessary to save your work after each session, or is there an auto save facility? As I need to update my computer, any minimum spec info would also be helpful.Thanks Williamo
  3. I am an artist and designer, so I am a great enthusiast of eccentricity. It often leads to innovation! Sometimes not, but always challenging and interesting. I have done a lot of work in the area of cutting planks to shape, both in plan and variable edge profiling, as well as complete frame and hull fairing, using CNC. I have also looked at adapting these processes for full size yachts etc. I just need to find someone who makes 90 mm thick marine ply economically! I have also looked at profiling the inner surface of planks, (and the edges and ends,) then planking the hull and fairing the whole thing. I think this is the approach you are describing. Don't worry about traditional methods.They have their place, but once were innovative and poorly regarded. Pioneers are by definition out in front, and should be aware that opposition and missiles will usually come from behind, not in front!
  4. Hello Hjx , thanks for the reference. Im not sure I follow your proposed technique here. Would you machine the external profile of the strake while it was flat on the bed of the CNC? Then plank the hull? That's innovative but you must be confident the frames are accurate first!
  5. Yes. The critical thing is to have the workpiece very accurately and rigidly fixed before starting any cutting, or even a trial cut in foam first! I just have a thing about fairing hulls well.
  6. My point was that they had made a very thorough analysis of all available documentation, and may have a view on how it was built, regardless of how it ended up.
  7. It might be useful to contact the builders of the Endeavour replica, which rests at the Australian National Maritime Museum in Sydney Harbour, to see how they resolved this. Just a thought.
  8. I am currently exploring the possibilities of bevelling frame edges once frames and keel are assembled, and the hull inverted, using a CNC. Planking fairing may be done in this way too. I don't suppose this is a particularly original idea, but it would be interesting to speak to anyone who has attempted it.
  9. Hi Bigvasa Just looking at some numbers online - the Vasa Museum gives:- 1210 tonnes, sparred length= 69 m - your measurement 2.6m = approx 1: 26.5 between perpendiculars(?) = 47.5m - your measurement 2.0m = approx 1: 23.75 beam = 11.7m height = 52.5 m draft = 4.8m So a very loose but useful working scale is 1: 25, subject to finding how the museum actually measured theirs, and you refining your measurements. I have found seven wooden Vasas online. The largest scale is 1: 60, so not even close. l'm with Backer - what you have is a scratch or semi- scratch model. Beer money well spent! Next item is to track down some drawings. I live in Brittany but am off to Oz tomorrow. There's the Endeavour and the Dyfken replicas to look at. (And beer money to spend!) Ps. There is some very interesting recent research on Vasas colouring. Red top sides apparently, not blue plus lots of other jolly colours plus gilding.
  10. First of all, congratulations. This is a significant model and should be very rewarding to restore. It's a great looking ship that sank on its maiden voyage. My suggestion is to do as much research, and listen to as much advice as you can before making a plan of attack, and before picking up tools. Write it out. Put it up on a whiteboard. If you can get to see the original (full size) restoration, at the Vasa Museum in Sweden, so much the better. They are a great source of info. There are also several excellent build logs you can source on MSW and elsewhere. I would consider carefully removing all the rigging, but take lots of photos, make sketches etc. and make an inventory of all missing bits. After that, it's just a steady process of cleaning and restoring. A lot of people would be interested in your restoration log, including me. Good luck. What could possibly go wrong?
  11. Hi Gaétan, I am currently drawing in 3D, producing individual plank, frame and keel drawings, These can be cut from wood with all the complex curves,angles and bevels, using a CNC system, and should fit pretty well. This is one of my current projects, but not with 74 guns!
  12. One of my projects at the moment is to create a (half) hull shape for a small sloop as a 3D drawing, and determine the edge profiles of each of the frames, as well as define all board and keel profiles. I worked for years with 3D drafting programs so the drawing isn't the tricky bit. With the keel and frames cut and assembled, the inverted hull is mounted on a CNC machine. The cutter follows the software which defines the edge profiles of the frames. As we all may know, this is a time- consuming process by hand. After planking, the cutter can be reset to follow the fairing profile. That's the theory! BTW I'm using Bentley Microstation V8i- a bit old now but handy with Béziers curves and complex Boolean bits. I'm now wrestling with translating the drawings into CNC speak before committing to wood. Might do a few tests on foam first!
  13. Thanks Roger. Good info
  14. Many thanks. That's great info. As you say, it's pretty evident that every sloop is different. I'm now very interested in building one from scratch, as well as understanding their evolution, so am looking for detailed set of drawings, if they are available.
  15. Currently interested in the evolution of the working sloops of Brittany, and finding relevant contemporary drawings.
  16. Many thanks for the warm welcome Jim. I moved to France about a year ago from Western Australia. Thanks for your welcome and info Mark. Lots of interesting ideas.
  17. Hi, My name is Bill. I live in Brittany in France. I am a new member, currently building the Corel Sloop (or Sloup), and researching the history of these work- boats on the south and north coasts of Brittany. They have beautiful lines. I am also interested in developing CNC techniques to improve fairing of frames and planking in a general way for wooden hulls. Happy to hear from anyone with interests in these areas.
×
×
  • Create New...