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Michelnou

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  1. In fact, I have already modified the tiller. Initially, the end of the tiller was 8 mm above the deck. I have cut and made longer the top part of the rudder so that now the end of the tiller is 16 mm above the deck. I consider this value to be acceptable (not far from 20 mm...). I wonder if the hole in the deck, around the rudder, must be or not be closed in a "wood box". In the real world, sea water could penetrate by this way. Mike
  2. I have turned the binnacle so that the helmsman could read the compass window. What is your opinion about the rudder cover subject ? Is it necessary ? What can I make by myself ? Thanks Mike
  3. Yes, it is my model. Here is a picture of the layout which shows deck elements. The right side of the binnacle is made of transparent material, certainly for compass reading, in which case, you are right, the binnacle furniture is not in the right direction. But it is glued on the deck... One more Mantua mistake that I had not detected (it is my first ship model...). Concerning the davits, I have also respected the Mantua layout...
  4. There is none rudder deck crossing drawing on Mantua kit layouts. Here is a picture of the model whose scale is estimated about 1/50. I specify that the tiller is glued to the rudder. The current length of the tiller is 35 mm.
  5. In this case, it is for tiller steering (barre franche in French). I work on a Mantua schooner kit which includes several errors such as scale mistakes. It is why I wonder about this subject. This kit does not include rudder cover, I suppose that it is a lack. Mike
  6. I wonder what was approximately the tiller's length on a schooner whose deck was 75 feet long. Thanks for the answers Mike
  7. In fact, the initial deck color resembled more to cherry wood than mahogany which is darker. I suppose that the scale is about 1/40 because it is a small schooner which only 3 guns on each side. Here is a picture of the model :
  8. Finally I will replace backstays deadeyes with blocks. These blocks will be rope stropped to allow the fixing with deck's eyepins. Mike
  9. On my Baltimore schooner (around 1810) I contemplate to bound backstays to deck by means of deadeyes. Knowing that I have already eyepins glueded in the deck, what is the best method to fasten the bottom deadeye to the eyepin ? With rope or wire ? Thank for advices Mike
  10. On the Mantua Baltimore clipper, the desk included in the kit is made of thin plywood (2,5 mm) of which the outer surface color resembles to mahogany wood. Knowing that usually ship desk color is not brown/red, what can I do to improve that situation ? I thank you for your advices Mike
  11. Thank you for these advices. It is what I do because masts were not still fixed. For the bulwark, which was varnished, I am painting it with Humbrol 103 which is a mat light cream color. Do you know the gun's carriage colors which were mainly used on these Baltimore clippers ? Mike
  12. I own the book of Howard Chapelle, it is why the hull, that I have painted gloss white 30 years ago, is now mat dark blue with the upper white band. I had finished walnut masts and spars whith gloss varnish. I realize now that it was a mistake. It is why I consider to sand masts and spars and then apply matt colorless oil. Is it a good idea ? Thanks Mike
  13. When you write "the choice for masts is natural" should I understand that one must use a varnish or an oil matt or semi-gloss or not any product ? In my kit, masts and spars are made of Walnut. Mike
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