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About allanyed

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    Special Contributor
  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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    Ave Maria, Florida
  • Interests
    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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  1. Wefalck, I have gone through Gottardo and San Bernadino tunnels and over the passes a number of times but did not realize the danger and good fortune I had not to be hit by a stone. I do recall being delayed an hour so as the road crews were clearing a snow avalanche that had just crossed a highway we were traveling on the way to Interlaken. I had never seen an avalanche and was amazed that the snow had come down with such force and much of it had rolled into giant balls as much as 2 meters in diameter. Back to the jokes. Who knew what time it was when the first
  2. Very nice tutorial Keith!! Depending on the ship and era, keep in mind the pattern of the ends of the planks are a bit more complex, usually with a three butt or four butt shift system rather than a single butt shift system as you show which would be extremely weak. I realize with a POB, this may be nonsensical, but it can be done. Thanks for sharing! Allan
  3. Neil, Why should the first layer of planking be so bad?? There are great tutorials and tons of advice on planking here that should alleviate fear of doing a credible planking job. For that matter, with a little practice and following these lessons here there is no need for double layers of planking given appropriate types and sizes of wood. If you must do a double planking, the first layer could be used as a practice run. Assume you cannot use fillers or cover ups and you will take a little more time, but will be happy in the end. This may be a crazy thought, but here you go----&g
  4. These last photos show the blocks as mentioned in the previous post. I know that with a kit, it seems impractical to buy a book that shows how the rigging goes, but there are too many lines to describe in detail here. Lees Masting and Rigging would be my first choice as it covers a wide range of years, albeit for British ships. Lennarth Petersson's book Rigging Period Ship Models is a much a cheaper book to buy but only deals with one specific size ship and small time span. Still, it is probably a better guide as to what goes where . I just checked and there are copies for as little as
  5. Hi Richard, Not sure about French ships, but there seems to be a lot of mistakes in their picture. First, there is no room for the shrouds and stays which would go around the mast head first. For any blocks that were rigged to the mast top, there likely were no knots, but rather the individual blocks would have a loop that is seized to itself. I don't think there would be any blocks attached to the foot of the upper (topgallant?) mast is it had to be unshipped and taken down in some conditions. Blocks attached to the cap, for the lifts or example, would have a span clove hitched to t
  6. Don't know why but this made me laugh out loud.
  7. Please do go with the jpgs. I agree, most folks will not open the attachments. When I attach a jpg here , it takes the same as a pdf, a second or less. Thanks! Allan
  8. Glad to help out Richard. The other sections of the book on the rigging, belaying, and more are extremely useful. For sizing, the last portion of the book gives a series of ratios for the masts, spars, and rigging lines. Remember rope sizing is always given in the book in circumference, not diameter!! Allan
  9. Also keep in mind that the shape of the rabbet is dynamic, never being the same angle along the length of the keel except in the area of the dead flat. The angle should match that of the frames/bulkheads where they end at the keel/rabbet line. There is more to it depending on the era as the keel itself changed over time as well. For a kit, the same basic idea should apply, though. The following was posted in the past but this may help you avoid a search. Allan
  10. Corona virus related humor. Having spent a lot of time on subways over many year in various cities, especially Manhattan, this struck me as really funny.
  11. Gary, Many thanks for your reply on the dry transfer letters. It was not wordy in the least, I appreciate the detail you gave. Allan
  12. Thanks everyone. Keith, I laughed out loud when I read your suggestion. It is a good one!!! Druxey, I totally agree that a point of light, be it a bulb or otherwise does work when holding up the item to put the light behind it, but outdoors in bright sun really showed up things quickly and painfully. not painlessly, that were less noticeable indoors. This tells me more light in the shop is probably a good idea 😁 Allan
  13. Thank you for your comments everyone, I really appreciate it. Keith, Thank you very much for your comment on the wheel, I really am grateful for you pointing this out. I double checked the wheel dimensions against the drawings and you are correct, the rim is 0.14" wide. The drawings show the rim at 0.12 wide. I have no idea how I missed this. Over all diameter is good, but the rim is too beefy. I will definitely check with the builder to see if this is OK or if I need a redo. In making the model, I have found several potential problems with their drawings and the builder
  14. Hi Andre, If I may make a suggestion, consider using copper. It is obviously soft and is so easy to blacken with liver of sulfur compared to blackening brass. Ed Tosti's log on the clipper ship Young America gives a good bit of detail on its use. The best part is that it can be used on the copper prior to installing or in situ because it will not stain the wood. Allan
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