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allanyed

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About allanyed

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  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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    allan@mascaraplus.com
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    Ave Maria, Florida
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    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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  1. I thought this would be an easy one to address but after speed reading appropriate sections in Seamanship Age of Sail by John Harland I found there was a lot to do in preparing and actually anchoring. In short, the anchor was dropped one at a time and the ship moved away from the anchor(s) with wind and tide until the anchor(s) bit. The number and selection of sails used when anchoring was depend on the wind conditions and direction. The hawser(s) was wrapped around the riding bitts a turn (sometimes twice) then secured once the ship pulled tight and anchor bit. I was unable to find any mention of using capstans or windlasses in anchoring. The number of anchors used could be as many as three or four, depending on wind and tide. There were different sequences used when coming to an anchorage head on with wind dead aft, coming in before the wind with the tide, coming in before the wind and against the tide, and anchoring on a lee shore, the last requiring as many as four anchors letting go first the weather sheet, then the weather bower, then the lee bower and last the lee sheet anchor. The helm was used at times to maintain the ship tight against the hawsers, and again there is no mention of using the capstans. There are about 28 pages on anchoring and mooring and there are numerous drawings showing the maneuvering in different situations in Harland's book. I am sure there are other members with more knowledge on this, but Harland is usually a reliable source of such information. Allan
  2. Bazz A quick search and simple description shows that at the time of Trafalgar in 1805, Victory carried the following. Gundeck: Thirty Blomefield 32 pounders 9' 6" long barrel Middle gundeck: Twenty-eight 24 pounders 9' 6" long barrel Upper gundeck: Thirty 12 pounders 8' 6" long barrel Quarterdeck: Twelve 12 pounder 8' 6" long barrel Forecastle: Two 12 pounders 9' long barreland + Two 68 pounder carronade 5' 2" long barrel The carriages of the 24 and 32 pounders would be 72" long but the carriages of the 12 pounders approximately 67" long. Scaling down, the 32 pounder carriages would be 19mm long and the 12 pounders 17.7mm long. The carronade mountings are of course a different design altogether. Allan
  3. The following may help. Note that the reef knots indicated are in fact square knots. Allan
  4. My all time favorite for planking ships' boats is holly. When wet it is extremely flexible for bending into frames over a forming plug and works very well dry for the planking. If the boats were painted white, the wood itself will negate the need to add paint. For other pieces European box or Costello Box are both great. Just one more opinion..... Allan
  5. Food for thought. Second one is probably more an American oldie but goodie.
  6. Greenstone Wreaths (on English ships at least) were no longer used on new ships built from about 1703 so this ship is likely 17th century. The carvings are more ornate than would be found on ships built in the 18th century. Do you have the name of the ship in the photos? Allan
  7. Based on photos and plans that I could find that are appropriate to French ships in the 18th century, I believe the outboard rail would be a series of permanent U-shaped stanchions called hammock cranes in which hammocks would be stowed after being rolled and passed through a measuring ring when not in use. They would be walled in with canvas or netting. Per a description from Goodwin, the English first secured the cranes with a single spike into the plank sheer but then later followed the French practice of having the bulwarks partially built up and cranes were secured to the inboard side of the bulwark rather on than on top of the plank sheer. There would be no rail at all around the waist. The inboard rail on the replica is indeed more likely to prevent lawsuits due to not following modern safety practices. The ship's boats would be hoisted over these hammock stowage rails so there was no need to make them flexible or removable. Allan
  8. Jeffrey This may be an easy way out, and specific to one or two vessels. Zephyr 1779 (14 gun brig) drawing https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/85176.html If you download and print the drawing you can measure the angle pretty accurately for that brig. You can compare it to Swift (8 gun brig sloop), 1783 as well. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/84645.html Allan
  9. Chuck If you don't have a drawing program that you are comfortable using but you can scan the image, PM me and I maybe I can do this for you. If you prefer, the easiest thing to do is as Druxey describes. Allan
  10. Try McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/steel-bars Allan
  11. I assume you are silver soldering so an iron would not work, I have a block of material made for soldering at most any temperature. It is soft enough to dig into it which I have done on numerous occasions to hold a piece in place. Hard to describe in words so if my explanation is unclear, I can try to post a photo or two to give you an idea of what has worked for me. Using a wire to hold things in place does work but you would need to make sure it cannot be heated to the same temperature. Clip on an alligator clip on the piece not to be soldered and it will draw away enough heat to keep the hold down piece from being soldered. If it is still a problem, clip to the wire that is not to be soldered with a wet piece of cloth or tissue in the alligator clip as well. Allan
  12. I suspect the shape may have varied depending on the nation, era, builder, etc. One example is the drawing of the Hampton Court 1709 decks. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/384163.html Looking at the lower gun deck it seems clear that the chain pump tubes were square and the brake or suction (elm tree) pumps were round. Lavery gives a good bit of detail on both chain and brake pumps pages 72-79 in the Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War and the chain pump tubes are square while the brake pumps were round. He mentions that in 1804 metal tubes were tried but without much success and it was permitted to use pitch pine in place of elm in starting in 1807. Allan
  13. Pieter, My misunderstanding. I thought you were referring to the sheer , cap, counter and other rails on the sides of the ship, not at the stair openings. Cheers Allan
  14. Pieter The short answer is I do not think there were any brass railings on any ship of the line in the 18th century. These would all be wood, and most likely painted or other wise protected. If you choose to go with wood they are easy to make with home made cutters made from pieces of an old hacksaw blade or stiff back single edge razor. That said, if you choose to use the brass in the kit, I imagine they can be painted any color you feel is appropriate, be it black, a wood tone, or left alone as you mention. Allan
  15. Paul I may be way off base here, but I don't think there are supposed to be gun ports cut into the bulkhead for the chase guns. Photos of Artois class ships, including Diana, at the NMM Collections site do not have ports for these guns. The photo below is from NMM for Diana http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66533.html Allan

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