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About allanyed

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  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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    Ave Maria, Florida
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    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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  1. The bar has been set SOOOO high by your build. If you ever decide to go into a new field such as surgery, I would trust you and your scalpel totally. Allan
  2. Davy, I like this topic of yours. I had just posted a separate one but thought to copy it here as your topic "other hobbies" is more appropriate. Other hobbies probably abound amongst the 37,000 members here at MSW. I for one am curious as to what others are up to. I would one day soon like to get back into astronomy and get my old 8 inch Schmidt Cassegrain scope back from one of our sons that is not using it. That or maybe go for something new that works with my laptop and digital camera. What sparked this note is the following video. This excerpt is from Carl Sagan's book Pale Blue Dot (1994), inspired by an image taken at Sagan's suggestion, by Voyager 1 on Feb 14, 1990. The earth is shown from a distance of about 6 billion km (3.7 billion miles). Voyager 1 had completed its primary mission, and was leaving the Solar System when, at the request of Carl Sagan, it was commanded by NASA to turn its camera around, and take one last photo of Earth across a great expanse of space. The attached video's accompanying words were spoken by Sagan, and written almost 26 years ago, are still relevant today. Allan BlueDot1.mp4
  3. allanyed


    Other hobbies abound amongst the 37,000 members here at MSW. I for one am curious as to what others are up to. I would one day soon like to get back into astronomy and get my old 8 inch Schmidet Cassegrain scope back from one of our sons that is not using it. That or maybe go for something new that works with my laptop and digital camera. What sparked this note is the following video BlueDot1.mp4
  4. In a shoe repair store in Winnepeg, Canada a sign that reads: "We will heel you. We will save your sole. We will even dye for you." At an optometrists office: "If you don't see what you're looking for, you've come to the right place." On a plumber’s truck: "We repair what your husband fixed." On an Electrician's truck: "Let us remove your shorts." On another Plumber's truck: "Don't sleep with a drip. Call your plumber." At a Car Dealership: "The best way to get back on your feet - miss a car payment." Outside a Muffler Shop: "No appointment necessary. We hear you coming." In a Veterinarian's waiting room: "Be back in 5 minutes. Sit... Stay.." At the Electric Company: "We would be delighted if you send in your payment on time. However, if you don't, YOU will be de-lighted. In the front yard of a Funeral Home: "Drive carefully. We'll wait." In a Chicago Radiator Shop: "Best place in town to take a leak." Sign on the back of a Septic Tank Truck: "Caution - This truck is full of Political Promises.
  5. Toni, If you are going to buy copper wire, get spools and cut pieces to length. FAR cheaper. I bought four different sizes in a box which each spool being 100 feet long. You can find all kinds of diameters and spool sizes to meet your needs. The one that worked for me is https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Round-Assorted-24-26-28-30-Spool/dp/B07D54TM1G/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=copper+wire+spool+stl&qid=1594460184&sr=8-12 Allan
  6. Patrick, My apologies, I was not thinking that far back. 17th century is as far back as I had photos of models so at a loss regarding 16th century. Looking at modern models including the following built by James Lees and Philip Wride in 1988 of a galleon of circa 1588 it SEEMS to not have battens, at least for the foremast. I could not find a higher res photo so not 100% sure on this model. The following contemporary drawing appears to be without the batten as well. Allan
  7. I have two new two copies of The Master Shipwright's Secrets by Richard Endsor, only need one. $30 plus shipping. Please PM me if interested. Allan
  8. Jan, Based on how the clue block is rigged, I agree with you that would make the most sense. As stated earlier, I have only seen drawings and rigged models with the leech lines on the fore side of the sail. I just now did some more digging and based on the first photo below, the clue garnet does stay on the aft side of the sails. The leech lines can be seen on the second photo on the fore side of the sail on this model circa 1750.
  9. Patrick There is no need to remove the strip from the channel once the deadeyes are installed. Below are contemporary models from the 17th and 18th centuries, all of which have the molding across the edge of the channel. I do not believe these were ever removed once in place unless a deadeye or the strip itself had to be replaced. Allan
  10. Mike, Thanks for clarifying the situation. Keep in mind that the drawing you show has the clue and sheet as the same rope for the topsail which does not make sense as they are two different lines with two different purposes. Hopefully your other drawings clarify this. Also the clue garnet would be tied to the spar with a timber hitch, not a seizing so it could be untied with some ease. For the clue, sheet and tack, the block arrangement at the clue of the sail is important. Below is probably appropriate for Enterprise. The bolt rope and clue of the sail is in red to more easily see how this is rigged. The clue block is the one through which line #19 on the drawing you posted goes. Allan
  11. Mike, I am not 100% sure on which side of the sail the line runs, but assume (usually a big mistake) it is correct on the drawing that you posted. There are a lot of members here that will have more knowledge on that specifically and can confirm or correct. Are there additional drawings for the rigging of the sails? Jaager, I did not look at any other lines before and now that I have I agree they do not appear to be correct at all. While this is an American ship, the rigging should not be that different than British Navy ships of that time. On the drawing posted, the buntlines and blocks are missing on the lower sails. (there would not be any on the topgallants for ships smaller than 1st rates) The leechlines and blocks are missing (On British ships, they would have run on the fore side up to 1773 the aft from 1773 to 1815, and on the aft side from 1815. ) No leechlines would be carried on the topgallants. Bowlines and bridles are missing. It appears that topsail clue and sheet are the same line which is incorrect. The topsail clue line block would be secured to the clue of the topsail with an eye. The topsail clue line runs from the topsail yard about 3/4 in from the yard arm through this clue block at the clue of the sail, up to a block secured to the topsail yard just inboard of the standing part then down to the deck. The sheet would have a knot at the end of the line and held to the topsail clue in an eye. The sheet would go from the clue through a block under the the topsail yard near the slings, then out to the sheet block at the yard arm of the lower yard, through a center block under the lower yard, then down to and through a sheave in the bitts. Same basic problem in the drawing for the topgallant rigging. For the topgallant rigging, there appears to be a lift block on the topsail yardarm. At least for British ships, the topgallant lifts did not run to blocks on the topsail yardarms so there would not be a lift block on the topsail yards. Topgallant clue lines rove from the clue of the sail up through blocks a few feet outboard of the slings, then down to the lower top and made fast to a cleat. All in all, if you are looking for a bit more accuracy I would not use this drawing to rig your model. Mike, I would refer to one of the classic books on rigging such as Lees Masting and Rigging among others. Petersson's Rigging Period Ship Models would likely help though it is for a specific ship (Melampus 1785) and may have some additional minor differences with Enterprise 1799. Hope this helps! Allan
  12. Mike The clue garnet which is what you show has the standing part made fast to the yard with a timber hitch. As the drawing shows, the line then runs down the front of the sail, through the clue garnet block and then back up the aft side of the sail to the block which should be seized to the yard a little inboard of the standing part, then down to the bitts. Keep in mind that for 1799, the tack block was first seized to the clue and then the clue garnet block and sheet block were stropped around the clue of the sail and tack block seizing, not directly to the sail, therefore the tack block will have to be seized to the clue before you can attach this clue garnet block. Allan
  13. Unless someone has a contemporary drawing or photo of a contemporary model of Surprise showing crows feet were still in use in your time frame, you are probably safe to leave off the crows feet. Allan
  14. Hello Helge, I assume you are speaking about the crows feet and euphroe block. You say "without crowfeet on the top". Do you mean on the topmasts or the lower mast tops? If you could attach a sketch that would be great. Per Lees, the top masts rarely had crows feet at any time and for the lower masts they generally stopped being used by the end of the 18th century. Hastings 1818 below shows no crows feet but I found a frigate of 1805 that looks to still have crows feet. Allan
  15. Hello Sheerline, Look at the drawing on page 77 of Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships which is about building a POB of Victory. It is very clear on how the wale strakes end at the stern. Another very clear drawing on how the strakes end at the counter is on page 17 of volume II of TFFM. Franklin's Navy Board Ship Models has numerous photos of contemporary models some of which are relatively clear showing the same construction of the end of the wales. You can see something similar in planking expansion drawings such as the one for Squirrel (1785) on the NMM Collections website. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/83495.html As a side note, I believe the lower wale on Victory actually had four strakes of anchor stock planks. Probably just a kit error that you can fix if you wish. Even so, it does not wrap around as you correctly surmised. Allan

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