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About allanyed

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  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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    Ave Maria, Florida
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    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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  1. Hi Slok You do need to hold it down so it curves. Normally it will curve fore and aft as well as to match the rounding of the frames (bulkheads in this case) athwartships. If the initial decking is a piece of thin plywood and will get individual planks on top of this sheeting, pins are fine. When doing individual planks, you can just hold them in place for a minute or less with your finger using carpenters' glue and they will stay down in place. Welcome to this motley crew of ours. Allan
  2. Thanks Druxey. Actually I am looking at rigged models. Several examples follow. The specific time period I am interested in is mid/late 17th to early 18th century. The following are a fourth rate of 1705, Grafton 1679, Royal William 1719, and a 3rd rate 1650. All models are at Preble Hall. Thanks again.
  3. Thanks Mark and for the added information Druxey. My concern is that there are no English contemporary models that I can find for the 17th century or very early 18th century using belaying pins and as accurate as they usually are, I am surprised this is the case if belaying pins usage was the norm. Thanks again, this is definitely enlightening information. Allan
  4. Great find Mark. Based on Mainwaring's dictionary, pins are stated to have been in existence as you point out, but was this common practice? Based on contemporary models of English ships of the early 18th century or earlier I do not recall ever seeing them present. The models and photos of models that I have seen invariably show such running rigging belayed to timber heads and cleats. From the standpoint of rigging a model, I would prefer belaying pins but I am not so sure this would have been the norm in the 17th or first half of the 18th century. Allan
  5. Hi Pat I know very little of this vessel but I believe she was equipped with sweeps so would the main purpose of the small ports be for the use of the sweeps rather than the comfort of the crew? Allan
  6. Thanks Druxey. By the same token, why would the model makers use a stylized type of framing rather than full framing? Based on the information I have been able to dig up I really think either a vertical scarph or boxing joint could be correct but will err on the side of caution and go with a boxing joint as you are betting :>) Allan
  7. Thank you very much. I looked at the drawings in Franklin and he does show what surely looks to be a boxing joint from the model of Bredah., even though he calls it a short plain scarph I was surprised to see the 5 additional types of scarph joints found on contemporary models and should have seen these before. Big oops on my part :<( But, would any or all of these be typical of the joints used on the actual ships as well, not just ship models? This chapter shows frame construction etc. for admiralty models which is nothing like actual shipyard practice so I would not be surprised if these joints are not to be necessarily found in the actual ship construction. Barring any other insights, I agree, I will not be amiss in using a boxing joint. Thanks again. Allan
  8. I have not been able to find any information on when boxing joints at the keel/stem junction came into use, so not sure if a boxing joint, or more likely, a scarph is appropriate for a 50 gun ship, 1695. The following from a contract for two 50 gun ships of 1695 mentions scarphs for the keel, but nothing regarding a boxing joint. Keeles to be of Elme (Not More than in Three Pieces) and to be fourteen Inches Square in the Midships with Scarphs Four Foot Four Inches Long at least and Each Scarph Tabled and laid with Tarr & Hair, to be well bolted with Six Bolts by an Inch Auger. Assuming a scarph is appropriate, would it be a horizontal scarph or a vertical scarph as found along the rest of the keel. Goodwin describes boxing joints and a horizontal scarph, but nothing regarding a vertical scarph at the junction of the keel and stem. I would be grateful if anyone can confirm if one of the below or some alternative is correct. Allan
  9. I still prefer to print (or make a copy) onto full sheet size (8.5X11) label paper and then cut out the individual parts on the paper, peel off the backing and apply it to the wood. No stretching or distortion and easy to scrape and sand the paper off the wood once the piece is done. Avery brand is good by pricey. Store brand from Staples in the US is much less expensive. Allan
  10. Yes, the rounding on the sketch is exaggerated. It was likely squared off but with a radius, not a sharp edge. The scantlings for a 50 gun ship in Steel's Elements of Naval Architecture shows the knee to be sided 1' 3" at the stem at the upper end and is sided at the fore part at the upper end 5" , quite a bit of taper. Not sure if this would be exact for Leopard as she was 30 years prior to the Steel Scantlings being published but surely a taper would be appropriate. This taper is also described in the Swan series Fully Framed Model Volume I and Euryalus, Volume I. Allan
  11. Hi Tom My apologies for jumping in so late in the game, but there is one thing that you may want to look at modifying. I only point this out as I made the same mistake on a model some years ago and was sorry I did not make the change. The knee of the head looks quite wide at the top forward portion. It should taper moving forward down to about 6 inches or so, where the figure head will sit. Where the pieces fit to the stem, they do widen as they rise as you show, but the top pieces should then taper a lot as they go forward. Maybe a difficult fix at this stage, but something to consider. As I had not made this change on my old model, the figure head looked bow legged. Again, my apologies for bringing this up now, I hope you don't mind. Allan
  12. Greg, I have successfully used Sparex as well for a number of years but without heat which I will try going down the road. Definitely a better way to go than acetone or other solvents that I had tried prior to using the Sparex. Do you have any idea what temperature the crock pot gives you? I was thinking it might be as easy to heat some water, dissolve the Sparex and put the pieces in the solution. Thanks for the description, very well done and extremely useful. Allan
  13. Mark T, thank you for your quick comment. Mark P. Great information in total. Severn and Burlington are part of the 130 foot group of 50s which includes Litchfield so quite valuable information for me. Thanks Bob, also super information, thank you for your response. Allan
  14. Mary, If a ship was fitted with sweep ports, there are hinged covers to keep any water from splashing in when not in use. If the sweeps are deployed, it would be most likely be due to the ship being becalmed so no worries for water coming in those conditions. I see this as your first post. Welcome to MSW! Allan
  15. Sorry for any confusion. I was only referring to the seams at joints of various pieces such as the keel scarphs and boxing joint, not coating the entire hull below the water line which I believe would have been with "White Stuff" prior to coppering. In the drawing below of for Litchfield (1695) the joint at "X" would be coated. I assume the lines "Z" would have no need for the coating thus would not be done, but would Y be lined with flannel and tar from bottom to top. Below the arbitrary waterline I have drawn, it should be lined, but would it continue to the top? Thanx, Allan

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