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allanyed

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About allanyed

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  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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    allanyed6469@gmail.com
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    allan.yedlinsky

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ave Maria, Florida
  • Interests
    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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  1. Hi Dave, Welcome to MSW. Please tell us a little about yourself including where you are from. Regarding your question, I am not very familiar with French ships, but the Art of Ship Modeling by Bernard Frolich gives a little information on rigging for French vessels. Looking at the many model photos in this book, the standing rigging actually looks to be "un-tarred but he writes that, he uses two basic rigging colors in DMC cotton, dark (walnut) for standing rigging, and beige for running rigging. He does not differentiate for various years, but the book includes ships both before and after 1764. Your call in the end, but dark brown for standing rigging (not black) and tan for running should be OK. I defer to experts on rigging French vessels in this motley crew of ours at MSW. Allan
  2. Keel to coils, superb!!! You set the bar higher than most of us can reach, but it will be fun (and frustrating) trying to do just that!! Allan
  3. Steel (1805) and the Shipbuilder's Repository (1788) list scantlings for a 16 gun cutter, 80'6" and 80' ( Length from the forepart of the stem at the height of the hawse holes to the aft part of the sternpost at the wing transom respectively.) Unfortunately there is nothing in either on cutters smaller than 16 guns. Allan
  4. Kurt, I need to try the soaking idea next time I use the draw plate. My only concern is that if the bamboo swells when soaked in water, after being drawn through the plate, and then dries, it will be smaller diameter than intended. Not the end of the world and surely can be accommodated for if consistent. Have you seen this as an issue? Thanks Allan
  5. For what it's worth, the tree nail cutter attachments were pretty limited in sizes. A good draw plate, including the one from Byrnes, allows anyone to make treenails to much smaller sizes than cutters. Too often we have all seen oversized treenails on otherwise super fine models and they appear to have the measles as a result. Bamboo strips and a draw plate will give anyone the capability of making all the sizes anyone could hope for. Bamboo will go to the tiniest diameter with very little effort and will be stronger than any other wood at those super small diameters. Bamboo skewers can be split several times then taken through the draw plate to make trennail stock. One package of skewers yield many thousands of treenails. If someone wants only the appearance of treenails, not the actual strengthening they give, it is far easier to just drill appropriate size holes and use a good wood filler in an appropriate color. Allan
  6. Gregory, Longridge is indeed clear on belaying points for a first rate of the late 18th and early 19th century, but the types of rigging are extremely different than earlier periods so I assume (which is often a mistake) belaying points will vary, especially as there were no pin rails for much of the 18th century and earlier. Druxey, if I was closer to Annapolis and could spend week or so there taking photos and sketching lines to their belaying points, that would be a super project. I do have a lot of photos of many of the models there, but I never took any with the mindset of preparing rigging drawings. Maybe this would be a good project for Grant Walker and/or the model club that meets and works in their shop :>) Same could be said for someone in Paris or Holland et al to put together something on those nations. Allan
  7. The biggest problem for me has always been finding specifics on belaying points. Anderson gives some written details and drawings as does Lees and a few others, but these are far from complete. Before the use of belaying pins, the information is even more scarce. If there is a source of definitive information on belaying points, I would love to see it. It would be great if someone had the time to trace rigging lines on various contemporary models and prepare a complete treatice and drawings on where all the lines are belayed for various rates, nations, and time periods. Allan
  8. YT- I agree totally with your statement "never use Cyanoacrylate adhesive in scaled ship building for anything . Period. " CUDOS!!!! Allan
  9. What a great question! I honestly don't remember, but when the Dolphin Street site closed down I think there was mention of Dry Dock Models and/or MSW about that time. Whatever got me here doesn't matter so much as that I am indeed here and VERY VERY happy to have a chance to participate. Allan
  10. Ed, When you consider the planking thickness of the decks, the wales, the diminishing strakes, bottom planking, and rails (not to mention internal planking) there can be many different thicknesses. No matter how accurate the saw, the best investment I made to be able to have proper thickness of planks is a thickness sander. A good one such as the Byrnes will allow you to produce planks at a thickness within a few thousandths accuracy. I don't know that there would be so many different thicknesses for either the Morgan or Rattlesnake, but if there are, a thickness sander is a good solution to getting what you need. Allan
  11. As she was only 320 days from launch on May 31, 1911 to her sinking April 15, 1912, and the fact that she was a luxury liner and no doubt extremely well maintained, I very much doubt weathering would be evident. Maybe some scrapes and bruises from docking and such, but weather related wear does not seem likely to me, except for some barnacle growth below the water line. Allan
  12. Encyclopedia of Markings and Decorations on Artillery by Mendel Peterson may have what you need. It covers multiple nations. Allan
  13. Druxey probably knows as much or more about painting various materials than anyone here, but you may find this product interesting. It gets great reviews: https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Products-JAC1000-Secondary-Assorted/dp/B00A6WIW70?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAINYWQL7SPW7D7JCA&tag=aboutcom02thesprucecrafts-20&linkCode=sp1&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00A6WIW70&ascsubtag=2578201|nb432bcfd89e84e259a00e359946186f814 Allan
  14. I agree that Sparex works extremely well. Soldering pastes, pickling materials, and other items for small metal work can be found in many places, but Contenti has been my go to place for a long time. The pickling powder can be had for $5 for a 2.5 pound bag that will last a lifetime in this hobby of ours. I am not involved with them in any way other than beng a happy customer. Allan
  15. Over all, the chart is a huge time saver, but always best to double check. It helped me find a couple errors that I made when preparing the mast and spar scantlings for Litchfield 1695. But be careful using the chart at http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php as there are errors n the chart. For example, for a 4th rate between 1685 and 1699 it gives a length of the spritsail yard as 90 feet. According to Lees' Masting and Rigging for this period, the length should be 1/2 the length of the fore topmast, that is 90 feet divided by 2 = 45 feet. The sprit topsail yard is in turn 1/2 the length of the sprit sail yard, that is 22.5 feet, not 45 feet as shown on the chart. I suspect the length of the spritsail yard was taken as the same as the fore topmast by mistake rather than 1/2 the length. Also, the sprit topmast should be 17.8' long, not 12.6 feet using the Lees' calculation that it is 0.33 X the length of the main topmast for this time period. These may be the only errors in the entire data file but as always, check (measure) twice, cut once. Allan

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