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allanyed

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About allanyed

  • Rank
    Special Contributor
  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ave Maria, Florida
  • Interests
    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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    allanyed6469@gmail.com
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    allan.yedlinsky

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  1. Oliver, On the models I have made with sails, I sewed the bolt ropes on the sails so glue was not necessary. If you are going to use glue, I would avoid CA as it could leave a stain around the edge of the sail and will leave the edge of the sail brittle. Allan
  2. Harv, Keep in mind that even if there is no rabbet that can be cut into the model, the wales should taper to the same thickness as the planking above and below where they end at the stem. If there were a rabbet and they were not tapered, the rabbet would have needed to be a different width at the wales and that was not the case as far as I have ever seen. I am curious about the bow area in the photo. Does anyone know if the planking over this area is something called for in the kit? Allan
  3. Hi Bob Sorry for the delay, just now saw your post. I got the drawings from the Library of Congress. https://www.loc.gov/resource/hhh.ma1719.photos/?sp=1&st=gallery Click on [ Drawings from Survey HAER MA-168 ] which is on the left side of the page that opens a little down from the top, and they all come up. They are free. There are a ton of photos as well. She is sometimes referred to Ernestina as well as her name was changed when she was sold in the 40's. PM if you have a problem and I can forward the drawings to you. Allan
  4. Welcome to this motley crew of ours Max. Tell us a little about yourself and if you are working on a project that you would care to share. Allan
  5. Welcome aboard! If you start a build log as mentioned above, I am sure you will get plenty of feedback on planking. Also, please read the planking tutorials here at MSW, they will probably answer many of your questions and help you avoid problems. Allan
  6. Oddball, No questions are stupid here. Even the most experienced builders/history seekers here find something new on a continual basis that results in questions that may seem obvious to some, but not to all. Without a time machine to go back to see how it was done we all ask questions. Regarding pins, depending on the era, yes, bolts, trennals, and various other "pins" were used and many model builders make and use them, myself included. But, depending on the model scale, their inclusion can ruin an otherwise great looking planking job. Over sized trennals will make the hull or deck look like it has the measles. Say a hull is planked and "pinned" with 1.5" trennals. At 1:98 scale, these would be 0.015" diameter. The smallest hole on a Byrnes draw plate, which is a top quality piece, is 0.016 so can be done, but making nails that small is not easy, even using bamboo. Plus they will barely be visible. Where bolts are required, they can be down to 3/4" diameter which is only 0.00765 diameter at scale 1:98. EDM brass wire can be found to .001 diameter uncoated so pretty close. Go up to 1:48 and the task is easier, if not extremely tedious, when you consider there many thousands needed on a hull. Side, note --- I don't recall the model or builder, but years ago I saw photos posted somewhere of a model that used no glue at all. Everything was built as was done in the yards back in the day, with trennals and bolts. Allan
  7. Thought this was appropriate for a lot us.
  8. Harve, If you taper and spile your planks correctly and pre-bend the planks to some degree you don't need any clamps or pins. Simply hold them in place with your finger for a minute or so and they will hold. This is assuming you are using pieces of plank of appropriate length, not one long strake the entire length of the hull and are using aliphatic glue. Please do read the planking tutorials here at MSW. Allan
  9. Lots of great advice above. You may want to also consider the thickness of the wood and the type. Many kits seem to use walnut that is very thin and grain is also an issue so splitting is not uncommon compared to other species. Dry bending is OK for many species, but not all. Allan
  10. I have been researching the Effie M. Morrissey for a while and wondered if you ever finished your beautiful model of her. WoodenBoat magazine has a fantastic three part article on her and the ongoing restoration in issues 270, 271 & 272.  The latest edition covers the extensive and radical restoration. Also it seems she has been renamed again and is now the Schooner Ernestina-Morrissey.

    I found a good copy of that Library of Congress documentation from the Historic American Engineering Record (HAER) that you used.  Available at https://www.loc.gov/resource/hhh.ma1719.sheet?st=gallery

    The companion photo set is also full of great details. https://www.loc.gov/item/ma1719/

    The WB article talks about a lines plan taken off in 1931 that shows her shape when she was only 37 years old. Apparently she had hogged quite a bit in the years since so they combined the two lines plans and rebuilt very nearly the whole boat.  

    Many good photos at  https://www.flickr.com/photos/schoonerernestina-morrissey/ 

     

    1. allanyed

      allanyed

      Hi. Thank you VERY MUCH for sending the information and thank VERY MUCH for your compliment.  I finished the hull but never finished rigging her when the buyer had to cancel the order.    Alas, I am semi retired as of a week ago so hope to finish her one day.   Right now I am in the middle of another project and collaborating with the NRG on it so may have to leave Effie alone unless another buyer comes along.  If that happens I will jump on her and should be able to finish her in less than 200 hours.  As you probably know her original name in 1894 was for the daughter of the owner Effie Maude Morrisey and renamed after the new owner's daughter, Ernestina in 1948 so the new name makes some sort of sense.    

      Best regards  Allan

       

       

  11. The type of wood can make all the difference. Walnut is not a good choice as it is so grainy and thin pieces tend to crack and split with ease. Take a look at the "Wood Discussion" section here at MSW and you will get an idea of what woods are being commonly used with success. Some are reasonably price, some are dear. As to thickness variations if you are ripping your own, Barkeater has a great point. A thickness sander is a great way to get even thickness but that is an investment that you may not want to make at this point. Even if they are varying in thickness, once in place on the hull, you will be sanding anyway and this should take out any variations in thickness. Allan
  12. Hi Jeff, One more comment. Tim's photo is really great.... except..... there looks to be a bottle of CA glue. UGH! (My own personal opinion and certainly not a universal one😕) If you can start your endeavors into wooden ship building without it, I think many, if not most, members here will agree that you will be better off. There is no need for CA anywhere in building wooden ships and based on posts here at MSW it seems it causes as many problems as it solves. I think by now you see what I meant about getting input from the crew. Allan
  13. Hello Jeff, I did a quick search and found a couple videos that sound like the ones to which you are referring. (DevMa models?) My apologies to the builder in the video, but IMHO I would not use anything from the planking video as a how-to guide, including his use of pins. First and foremost, study the tutorials on planking here at MSW. Follow some other builds plank-on-bulkhead models like similar to your Albatross. There are numerous posts here at MSW on what tools are needed/recommended and these are a great reference. For the kit, I would guess hand tools will suffice, so no big investment is needed to start off. Specifically, regarding pins, Tee pins to temporarily hold the planks are an option, but definitely not pins shoved all the way home as they need to be taken out. Remember that the magnificent contemporary models from hundreds of years ago that still exist today were built with hand tools. First time builds can launch you into a lifetime of builds or end the journey with the first model. You are very lucky to have this forum available to you as most of us had no such source of thousands of helpers and teachers when we started our first builds, so take advantage of it and learn from our mistakes. Most of all, have fun with your project!!! Allan
  14. I think your decision will be just that, YOUR decision, based on what you think looks right. I dug through my photos of models at Preble Hall and the bases invariably come up to the bow or just short of the bow and do not extend along the sprit for much, if any, distance. Never thought the bases would be a concern when I took photos so these are not the best shots, but may help you in your decision making. Allan

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