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allanyed

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About allanyed

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ave Maria, Florida
  • Interests
    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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    allanyed6469@gmail.com
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    allan.yedlinsky

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  1. Hi Mark, I have seen this on timberheads on the forecastle on some contemporary models such as the one pictured below. Regarding the San Marcos, I have doubts that there would be belaying pins on ships in the 16th century. Maybe the moderators can move your question to the rigging section and others more knowledgeable will respond with accurate information to help you. Allan
  2. I am sure you will do well in making them. I do think though that there will be at least two, perhaps three different sizes considering bowers, sheet and perhaps kedge anchors. Allan
  3. Nacioffi Which anchors do you need? I believe there are four anchors on Victory at this time in various sizes but Lavery states that 1st rates carried five until an order of 1779 stipulated they carry only four. They are not that difficult to make so you will likely get better scale accuracy making your own once you have the proper dimensions of each. They can be made with cast metal and wood stocks or all from wood with the "iron" portions painted black. I have no information on the weights of Victory's anchors but anchors were normally sized in proportion to the tonnage of the vessel. There are drawings of anchors of various sizes the RMG collections that you can find on-line as well as dimension details in spread sheet form in Brian Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War. Allan
  4. Alan, Thank you for sharing the drawings. What is the purpose of the traversing plate? I do not recall ever seeing this before. Thanks again Allan
  5. Dave, Once the surface is sanded perfectly smooth, draw the line and paint the first color, the lighter shade first. This first color should actually go past the line. Then redraw the line if necessary and a lay down a tape along the line. Next, put on a coat by spray, or by hand, a clear varnish, clear nail polish, or similar along the tape edge to seal it. Once this clear coat is dry, it will prevent t bleeding and wicking under the tape when you paint on the second color. Paint at an angle but away from the edge of the tape so you are not forcing paint into the seam. Again, be sure the surface is absolutely free of bumps and dings so there is no open gap between the tape and wood before sealing and then painting. If there is to be a thin (1/8", 1/4" or similar) white or other color stripe between the two main colors, automobile pin striping tape works very well. Once in place, clear coats over the finished hull will protect the tape. I used the pin striping on the model of the schooner Columbia and it shows no sign of ill effects after ten years aboard a cruise ship. Allan
  6. THANK YOU ALL FOR KEEPING US UP TO DATE AND SAFE, and..... Chuck, the statue buried in the yard procedure...…. St. Joseph buried upside down in the front yard facing the house. This placement assures he will work very hard to get the house sold, or praeteria, protect our website. Allan
  7. CofF Finding sails that are of scale thickness in woven cloth is difficult. Silkspan is a great substitute in general but high thread count bed sheets or pillow cases (800 or more TPI) look good and if they are to be furled, you can cut them short so they are not too bulky when furled. Allan
  8. A smooth surface prep as mentioned above is key. If you are painting a long line such as a water line or some such, and go with the masking tape method, coat the tape edge with a clear varnish or similar coating to seal the edge so there is less chance of the paint wicking under the tape and leaving tiny points or runs. Once the paint varnish is dry, apply the paint and once it is completely dry, the tape will come off leaving a sharp line. Same treatment works well with hand made stencils if they are being used for lettering. Use high quality brushes for the fine work!! Allan
  9. If you befriend your barber/hair stylist, get an old pair of their hair cutting scissors and have professionally sharpened. He/she will have such a contact. They are extremely good at snipping the ends without a trace of a tail and will last for years. Better is to get a new pair but top quality scissors will be well over $100. In the end, as with most things, you get what you pay for. Allan
  10. If you can get into the NY Yacht club, do so. NO PHOTOS when I was there, but I made a ton of sketches when working on a schooner model for a client. Fantastic yacht models to be seen. Maybe give them a call and tell them you are doing some research for a project. It worked for me, but that was some years ago. New York Yacht Club 37 West 44th Street, New York, NY 10036 USA +1(212) 382-1000 Fax: +1(212) 391-6368 quartermastersny@nyyc.org South Street Seaport to visit some sailing ships. Benjamin's Steakhouse (23 E 40th St location, -not East 41st which is also good - Ask for Victor to help you) and Keen's Steakhouse on 72 W 36th which is a great old historic chop house with some great memorabilia. Allan
  11. Hi Mark, That is what this site is all about, helping, getting help, teaching, learning and overall having fun! Allan
  12. Hi Mark, Can you send a picture? When you mention wheel chocks it made me think of the quoins which are used to change the elevation of the cannon aiming point by pushing them in or out under the inboard end of the barrel (not the trucks) See below. Spile could just be a bad translation --looking up spile I found the following: a small wooden peg or spigot for stopping a cask. 2 a large, heavy timber driven into the ground to support a superstructure. . Is this what they are showng? Allan
  13. Add up the cost of the wood cut in sheets and strips (strips are not so important as there are so many spiled and/or tapered strakes on the hull and decks) and compare it to the cost of rough cut board stock, a small format band saw or a simple table saw, and thickness sander. It may be equal to buying pre-cut sheets and strips for a good size model. Plus you would then have tools that can be used for years so the cost is amortized over a lot of models and time. With these tools and board stock you can use any of the woods mentioned including Castello or European box at a much more reasonable price. Castello and box as well as poplar (when you can find clear white stock) is dear, but better priced with board stock than sheets and strips. I have the privilege of owning a planer as well, which I highly recommend, but lived without it for a long time. Yes, there is a lot of sawdust to be made when cutting your own, but it is the same for the company selling you the finished sheets and strips. You are paying for that sawdust regardless of who makes it, them or you. Just my two cents worth. Allan
  14. You may want to check Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's ships as he shows quite detailed of the shrouds. I am traveling with no access to my books so cannot speak of Victory's time period, but for earlier periods, the order of dressing as given by Lees is Pendant of the tackles, shrouds, swifter (this is the aft most unpaired shroud with deadeyes) and stay. He also describes use of an eye as mentioned by Wefalck, but again, it may not be contemporary to Victory. The swifter did not receive ratlines in earlier periods but I don't know if that is the case for Victory. Allan
  15. Ciao Daniel Just checked in on your build and am enjoying your postings. I wish I had see it from the beginning and could have met with you in person as I travel to Treviglio twice a year for work. Alas, I am semi-retiring in January but MAYBE will be there for a few days in March and would love to see your work in person. Beautiful workmanship!!!! Allan

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