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About allanyed

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    Special Contributor
  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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    Ave Maria, Florida
  • Interests
    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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  1. Any hard non porous wood with small to no grain should be OK. I would avoid walnut as it is very porous and grainy. I know the kits almost all use this wood but they have to be concerned with getting out a decent product at a reasonable price. I love castello but it's gotten very expensive and hard to find these days. Cherry and Swiss pear are good choices if you don't mind a reddish hull. Maple could be good depending on the type and the amount of grain in the pieces you would be getting to work with. Lately there have been more folks using bass wood and some types of spr
  2. Vince, Phil, The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1825 is by Brian Lavery. Goodwin's most sought after book is also a great book to have, that is the Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850 Similar titles but totally different information in each. Both are in my top 10 when it comes to actually be used as references. Allan
  3. Joachim, The "thimble" or breeching ring came about for English ships on guns by Carron (Carronades) about 1779. Armstrong pattern long guns did not have the breeching ring, but by 1787 Blomefield pattern long guns did have them, so their presence is dependent on the year of your particular ship. I don't know if this is comparable to other nations. If you can let us know what size cannon and what year, more detailed information may be available. Allan
  4. Graham, Your decision to give it a go is a very good one. Once you have done this one time you will have a good understanding. The tutorials should help you a lot on marking out the widths at each frame/bulkhead. It is as simple as taking a piece of card and holding against the bulk head from top to bottom to get the full length, then dividing into the number of strakes of plank to go on to get the width. Little errors can be corrected on subsequent planks. Allan
  5. This is a fascinating piece of workmanship. Would love to have the plans for this for a new project. Click on the pic and enjoy the little film Allan Vintage lock from 1680.mp4
  6. Dan is correct in that the planks need to be tapered at the bow plus they need to widen at the stern. If this is a two layer model the first layer does not to be done this way but makes very good practice for the second layer of planking. If the planking you show is the only layer it should be taken off and started again. You will need to figure the number of strakes then mark the spacing at the stern, midships and at the bow plus a number of frames in between then use these to have the width of the plank at the various points. Study the planking tutorials here at MSW for details on doin
  7. Phil, Note that Chuck has posted here at MSW that Syren is no longer making and selling rope. Allan
  8. If the glue is CA, try a good soaking/rubbing with acetone. This may even loosen the joint so you can replace the piece and replace with a new piece and glue with PVA which is easier to clean up with water while wet or alcohol once dry. Allan
  9. Mike, About which schooner/year/nationality are you asking? Allan
  10. Phil Great job on the spread sheets!!!! I have no idea if these are appropriate for the Dutch fleet but lacking other information these could be a big help for Marcus and many others of us. If the Dutch ship on this thread is set up with similar sizes as the British, your spread sheet looks to be very close. For other sizes and eras it should be noted from what I can find in Lees other multipliers should be used. The 2.23 multiplier applies to all rates from 1773 to 1794. This is very close for the 1639 time frame of Marcus' ship which would have been 2.24, at least for British
  11. The following is part of an email I received earlier today after going over several oddities regarding the Charles Galley with Richard Endsor. I had also asked about the the extra gun ports on a draught from NMM that does not coincide with the Van De Velde drawing or the gun establishment at that time. Allan As I remember the extra gunports were added to the gundeck following criticism by Henry Sheers. The odd vertical lines shown by V de V on the Charles Galley are probably a result of her poor and very lightweight construction. The toptimbers are probably exposed with board f
  12. I have been starting a little reading in Richard Endsor's book The Master Shipwright's Secrets and came across a drawing by Van De Velde the Elder of the Charles Galley 1676 a 32 gun fifth rate. Between what I think would be the drift rail and the sheer rail appears to be vertical planking of some sort or perhaps balusters. If this is planking I doubt that this would be the only planking as many pieces would be in the space between top timbers so my question is, would this be a decorative laminate, balusters or something else that goes over the planking that would normally be in this area
  13. It has all been said above, but I want to add my congratulations on a job superbly done!! I hope to see a new project by you here at MSW in the very near future. Allan
  14. Edward First - Welcome to MSW!!! USUALLY the standing rigging is dark brown or close to black and the running rigging tan or beige. To figure the line diameter, wrap the line around a ruler for an inch and count the number of wraps and divide into 1 which will give you the diameter. There are very few rigging line suppliers available anymore so you may have to just go with thread that is close in color and size from your local fabric store or look on the internet. You can try to contact the kit manufacturer as well. As you are new, making your own rope may not be
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