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closehaul

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About closehaul

  • Birthday 08/31/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Flat Rock Alabama
  • Interests
    hiking and kayaking and sailing.

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  1. I'd be glad to tell you Chris. The paints used throughout the build are True North Precision Enamels. The bottom paint is USN Norfolk 65-A, Anti-Foul Red. The bottom paint was part of the Bluejacket paint kit ordered with the model kit. Ange
  2. The ratlines are at their half way point of completion so I thought of augmenting this basic build log with a few details about the methods and materials used for the standing rigging. The first photo is the rigging of the top spring stays belayed between the fore and main mast. I know somewhere on the site there are detailed instructions on serving all different rigging situations and I have found some to be helpful but in some things like these spring stays I improvised. In the top photo note the alligator clip hanging off the serving thread (at bottom of photo with green tape covering jaws)
  3. Your "America" is a very exquisitely detailed model that would make an outstanding centerpiece in any home. It has me considering it as my next build.
  4. Impressive work on the mizzen shrouds and chainplate rigging. The quarter deck furniture is beautifully detailed and straight.
  5. The ratlines have all been made fast to the foremast shrouds and the final pair of shrouds have been rigged to the spreaders ends, up and around the top of the masthead along with a pair of jumper shrouds from the mast cap out to the ends of the spreaders. Shear poles have been fastened to the top ends of the turnbuckles with CA glue and have been painted along with the chainplates and wire rods connecting them. This completes the standing rigging for the foremast. The main and mizzen mast are to be rigged in a similar fashion minus the jib and forestays naturally.
  6. With 5 of the 6 pairs of shrouds completed the next step is to tie in the ratlines to them. Spaced 3/16" apart they should factor out to 106 ratlines for the entire foremast when completed.
  7. Making progress with the foremast. Backstays and running tackle has been reeved and belayed on deck cleats (top photo). Both the double and single forestays have been made fast by belaying them under the bow grate ( 2nd photo). And the forward most shrouds are made taut and served to their turnbuckles which are wired to the chainplates. (3rd photo). With the foremast now stepped, minus the remaining 5 pairs of shrouds yet to be rigged, I've been profiling the mast rake ( about 1.5 degrees abaft ) against the sail plan throughout the masting process.
  8. The blocks arrived this past week and were served onto the backstay runner pendants, then reeved with the running rigging lines through double becket blocks port and starboard. The foremast has been fitted into its hole in the deck. As more lines are being served throughout the rigging, I'm trying to figure out a rule of thumb as to which lines are actually served and which ones can be knotted . I've been using bowlines for fastening the gaff block pendants as shown back in post #76 but I'm thinking off severing these knots and serving the pendants to the gaff eyes instead. The instruction boo
  9. Thank you for inquiring Chris. The black line for serving actually was from the Admiral's sewing kit. Its 37% cotton 63% polyester. It is visibly much thinner than the rigging line supplied with the kit but I'm unable to decipher the spool label to determine its gauge. If any one reading this reply can augment the details on the label it would be most welcomed. Ange
  10. Thanks Bob. Overall it is but as you can see on the hull port side, there is a touch of flat black that I overlooked that needs a little buffing. the photos reveal my oversights thankfully. Ange.
  11. While fastening block pendants to the gaffs I've come up short 8 of the 3/16" single blocks (they pulled a Houdini on me). All 40 blocks in the kit had been correctly inventoried upon opening its packet, so while waiting for replacements I started serving the backstay block pendants and seizing the forestay rigging needed to step the foremast. The fourth photo down is the pendant line ending that was frayed then glued form a loop with 50/50 Elmers glue to water mix. Then the thinner serving line is wound around, tied off with a square knot and one last coat of white glue mix is lightly brushe
  12. The instruction booklet allows for the boom goosenecks and gaff jaws assembly using copper foil strips to simulate them as close as possible to the actual sail plan that shows them twice the size of the models' actual scale. It also recommends using pins to secure all booms and gaffs to the masts to substitute for the actual hinges portrayed on the plan (top three photos). I had to satisfy my curiosity to see that all spars were clearing the mast regardless of them being cut, shaped and set according to the sail plan. The bottom photo is of all spars completely fitted with blocks, bridles, pe
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