Jump to content

BobG

Members
  • Content Count

    1,069
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About BobG

  • Birthday 09/15/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sacramento, California
  • Interests
    Cycling, hiking, world travel, photography, playing guitar and ship modeling.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,184 profile views
  1. I root for all the Indiana teams but favor the Hoosiers and the Bulldogs a little more. 😏
  2. I think Chuck just wets the wood slightly with his fingers and then uses a travel iron for heat when he's edge bending and dry heat from a hair dryer for flat bends and twists.
  3. Thanks, Don. I just have a small work desk in the corner of our second bedroom and dust is a problem for me even when I'm sanding just a small amount. I've made the mistake of using my Dremel inside and, as you say, that generates a lot of dust. My Medway Longboat was displayed near my modeling area and I just noticed that it has a lot of dust on it. Now I need to clean it up. I put too many hours into it for it to end up looking dusty. We have now moved it to another part of the house too. It would be best if it were in a case but we just don't have the space for big display cases. Great watching your progress on the Winnie.
  4. The Vallejo Varnishes are water-based and, from everything that I have read, their Flow Improver, Retarder Medium and Airbrush Thinner are all compatible with their water-based products. I think the problem is mainly due to how I applied the varnish. I was trying to keep the application wet and I applied too thick of a coat. My air pressure may not have been ideal either and I may have gotten the airbrush too close to the hull at times as well. So I don't think compatibility was the main culprit. I think my technique was the problem with the varnish not leveling well. I was looking at the hull this morning and, quite honestly, you can not really see the orange peel effect from 2 feet away. You can see the orange peel effect if I hold the hull up close so the light hits it at an angle. My wife thinks it looks fine but I certainly wish it was better. I have some Micro Mesh Soft Sanding Pads on order and there will be 9 pads with grits from 1500 to 12000. I've been reading where modelers have been able to polish out the orange peel effect with these pads successfully so I will give them a try. Evidently, using them up to 6000 gives you a more satin sheen and from 6000 on up the sheen becomes more glossy.
  5. This looks like an outstanding kit. Thanks for the detailed review.
  6. Thanks very much for your reply, Bob. Much appreciated. I think you are spot on about what happened. I tried to keep the varnish fairly wet and ended up putting on too heavy a layer. When I painted the hull I used Vallejo Model Air paints and I added some Vallejo Flow Improver to the paint and I was really satisfied with the way the hull turned out. They were all matte colors and I needed to put on a clear coat to get the sheen I wanted. Today, however, I just thinned the Vallejo Varnish and didn't put the Flow Improver into the mix. I sprayed outside in my garage in the morning and it was cool so I didn't think I'd need the Flow Improver since the paint had been thinned. In hindsight, I probably should have added it. That said, I think that the main culprit was that I applied the varnish too thick. Of course, the other culprit, was me being entirely new to this. Oh well, they say we learn the best through our mistakes but, damn, I hate it when that happens...
  7. I used Vallejo Model Varnish and it is water based. Would wet sanding be a problem on these water based varnishes?
  8. Thanks, Moab and Vayageur. Good advice. My perfectionism can get in my way at times! I'm going to give it a rest as you suggested. BTW, I see that you live in Indianapolis. I grew up in in the small town of Elwood about 45 miles northeast of Indianapolis and my sister lives near Fishers. I have basketball in my veins and still follow Indiana and Butler.
  9. Yes, it's here and there in all the colors but the white is the most difficult to see it. Did you use them on any clear coats? Were you able to get rid of this "orange peel" effect that I'm seeing in the clear coat? Thanks, Per. This is the first thing I've ever painted with my new airbrush. I'm pretty sure I must have had the pressure too high. I was going to lower it more but the nozzle clogged almost immediately and I had to empty the paint cup and clean the airbrush. At that point, I decided not to lower the pressure for fear that I might get another clog. I'm at that stage of "live and learn" when it come to airbrushing. My perfectionism can be a pain in the butt at times!
  10. I've been worried about applying a clear coat to the hull but I finally pulled up some courage and did it this morning. I have 3 Vallejo Varnishes: matte, satin and gloss. I wanted to try and get a semi-gloss finish so I airbrushed some satin and some gloss on a piece of clean, clay pottery that had a similar matte finish on it as the paint I used to paint the hull. I thought the satin sheen was too low and the gloss was too high so I mixed them the two together in a 50/50 mixture and that looked good to me. I mixed the the satin and gloss varnishes in the cup of my airbrush along with 1 drop of Vallejo thiner to every 3 drops of varnish. I used a .5 mm fan spray nozzle and lowered the air pressure a bit per the advice I got from Joe Volz previously. It turned out ok but I think it could be better. The sheen is good: somewhere between satin and glossy...just what I was hoping for but, when I look closely at it, it looks a bit rough and I can feel some roughness in the texture. I think I had the air pressure a little too high. Overall, it's pretty good and I think a lot of people would be happy with it but I'm now wondering if I should try and get it smoother. It seems like there might be a couple of options. I ordered some Micro Mesh Polishing Pads that come with 9 flexible sanding pads that range from 1500 to 12000 grit and people seem to love them for polishing out hard surfaces from satin to high gloss. I thought this might be something to try. The second option would be to lightly sand the hull and spray it again and the third option would be to leave it alone since it looks pretty good as is. I suppose I could end up making it worse so it might be in my best interest to leave well enough alone! It's been several hours now since I sprayed it and it still has a very slight tackiness feel to it so I'm going to let it sit until I can't feel any tackiness at all before I try anything. I feel like I've got a lot to think about... I hope you can see the semi-gloss sheen in the photos below. The last photo is an extreme close-up that clearly shows the roughness in the texture. It looks awful in that photo but you really don't notice it unless you hold the hull up close and examine it. So what to do now? Is there a proper fix or should I just leave it alone...?
  11. I've been worried about applying a clear coat to the hull but I finally pulled up some courage and did it this morning. I have 3 Vallejo Varnishes: matte, satin and gloss. I wanted to try and get a semi-gloss finish so I airbrushed some satin and some gloss on a piece of clean, clay pottery that had a similar matte finish on it as the paint I used to paint the hull. I thought the satin sheen was too low and the gloss was too high so I mixed them the two together in a 50/50 mixture and that looked good to me. I mixed the the satin and gloss varnishes in the cup of my airbrush along with 1 drop of Vallejo thiner to every 3 drops of varnish. I used a .5 mm fan spray nozzle and lowered the air pressure a bit per the advice I got from Joe Volz in this topic: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24604-using-an-airbrush-for-semi-gloss-or-gloss-finish/#comments It turned out ok but I think it could be better. The sheen is good: somewhere between satin and glossy...just what I was hoping for but, when I look closely at it, it looks a bit rough and I can feel some roughness in the texture. I think I had the air pressure a little too high. Overall, it's pretty good and I think a lot of people would be happy with it but I'm now wondering if I should try and get it smoother. It seems like there might be a couple of options. I ordered some Micro Mesh Polishing Pads that come with 9 flexible sanding pads that range from 1500 to 12000 grit and people seem to love them for polishing out hard surfaces from satin to high gloss. I thought this might be something to try. The second option would be to lightly sand the hull and spray it again and the third option would be to leave it alone since it looks pretty good as is. I suppose I could end up making it worse so it might be in my best interest to leave well enough alone! It's been several hours now since I sprayed it and it still has a very slight tackiness feel to it so I'm going to let it sit until I can't feel any tackiness at all before I try anything. I feel like I've got a lot to think about... I hope you can see the semi-gloss sheen in the photos below. The last photo is an extreme close-up that clearly shows the roughness in the texture. It looks awful in that photo but you really don't notice it unless you hold the hull up close and examine it. So what to do now....??
  12. I just caught up on your build log, Dave, and this hydroplane is a beauty. It's a great tribute to your father as well. It looks really big. What are the dimensions? I'll put in a vote for making it RC. I'd bet your father would have loved to see it skipping across the water at a blistering speed with a tall rooster tail following in the wake! Good luck on the rest of your build.
  13. Hi Dave, I just found your build log and really enjoyed reading it. I'm currently building the Pen Duick by Artesania Latina and I just completed painting the hull. It turned out very well and now I need to put a clear coat on it. I'm really nervous about applying the clear coat and am also unsure about how high the gloss should be on these racing sailboats. I was wondering what you used for your clear coat and how you applied it? I really love these wonderful J Class sailboats. Congratulations on a beautiful model!
  14. Gorgeous boat, Dave! I enjoyed reading your build log too. I love these sleek, racing sailboats. I'm currently building the Pen Duick by Artesania Latina and am already thinking that I would love to build one of these J Class boats. Bob

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...