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About catopower

  • Birthday 06/17/1962

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    SF Bay Area

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  1. This was the first ship modeling book I'd ever owned. Though it's not perfect, I learned a lot from it and got tons of inspiration from looking at the photos of shipmodels in the book. I never met Mr. Roth, but his wife Lois had maintained his ship model mail order shop, The Dromedary, for many year and I called them often. I have to admit to having a small crush on Rose, who worked for the shop... 😊 Clare
  2. Hi Chris. That is one clean looking build – nicely done! Clare
  3. I like how you left the treenails alone. They stand out just great. I'll have to check your build log on the sails. Looks like you added reinforcement bands? Nice job overall!
  4. Actually, you're right in that it doesn't make much of a noticeable difference in that these kits don't actually require you to do any significant cutting. So, one razor blade is probably just as good as another. The only thing that needs to get cut most of the time are the little tabs that hold a part to its sheet. I'll still use the scalpel for that because of the comfy handle! It was only when I needed to cut some excess off of a thick, built-up card stock piece that I noticed that the thinner blades are really nice to use. The slice right through without applying much pressure.
  5. Hi Chuck, I know what you're referring to. But, I think the difference is a more than you realize. Standard single edge razor blades are usually #12 size, which is .012" thick, though you can get #9 blades, which are only .009" thick. I mic'd the razor blades I have, and they come in at .0035" thick, or less than half the thickness of even the thinnest single edge razor blades. By contrast, my scalpel blades measure .015" thick. So, it seems that any razor blade will cut better than a scalpel blade. But, I'm telling you, these paper modelers usin
  6. Hi Chuck, the thing is that what is sold in hardware stores is many times thicker than these shaving blades. They are true razor blades, and they slice card stock like butter. I've seen some modelers take the double-edged razor blades and wrap tape around the extra edge, giving them a safe handle. If I keep making card models, I think I'm going to have to give that a try.
  7. Thanks for the nice comments all. Chuck, we have this Hanse Kogge in card, your Wütender Hund in card, Chris's Wütender Hund in wood, that just leaves the wooden Kogge von Kampen kit, and we'd have Shipyard's full collection covered! Any volunteers? Ages of Sail got a whole bunch of the wooden Koggen von Kampen kits... Louie, thanks for the comments. On the coloring, like with most things, over time and repeated applications of protective coatings like pine tar oil, the darker the ship will be. Consider this a newish ship!
  8. Well, it probably doesn't look like much was done, but I made a little more progress on this model. There is a bunch of framing at the bow and stern that I finally managed to add. It was a lot simpler than I expected. However, the compounded errors I've made on the hull planking caused me some minor issues. All should turn out fine in the end. There were a few bulwarks planks to add too, and that was probably a little weirder. There are two heavy posts, near the bow, their placement is based on the hull planking, which a little off on my model,
  9. Hi Tim, I'm already treating the sails with something other than starch in order to give them the existing shaping, so they already have a lot of body. I actually sprayed them again, lightly, and it started to undo some of the shaping I'd already done. I'm hoping that a little bit of the hot air will allow me to shape the sail just a bit, so that when it cools, the stuff will hold it in shape.
  10. Thanks Tim, Druxey. I'm not there yet and may have to redo the sail build yet again, but it is a small sail I'm doing the testing with, so it's not THAT much work. Druxey, I think you're right in that I'm going to have to rig up the mast and sail to see if that will help things out. The hairdryer is probably a good idea – I'll try that.
  11. Wasn't really happy with the number of strips having to get cut down to 22. The largest Kitamaebune, which this model represents, had 24. In fact, you could generally tell the cargo capacity of a transport by how many of these panels make up the ship's sail. So, I went back and I prepped and cut a new piece of sail material. But, then I thought I might do better if I experiment a bit with the sail on the Tonegawa cargo boat that I posted about a little while back. It's the same scale, and the sails would have been made the same way, but with only 9 shorter sail panels instead of 24
  12. Sail panels are now glued up. I checked the width of the full sail and it looks a little wide, which I figured might happen. Just compound errors in the measure of things added up. But, I preferred to err on the large side rather than small. I'll compensate by cheating slightly, and I'll remove one of the of strips from each of the outer panels. This will put the sale a little on the narrow side. But, when I lace the sails together, I'm going to try to work in a slight gap at the top and bottom, as appears in a number of drawings and on the re
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