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About catopower

  • Birthday 06/17/1962

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    SF Bay Area

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  1. Hi Mark, yes I do that with my wooden blocks too. But, wooden blocks stay open and these seem to close up again after I clean the holes. So, the stiffened line just buckles instead of passing through. I thought about using a needle threader, but I haven't needed to use one in many years, and I didn't want to make a special trip to the store just to fine one. I've found that, in general, if I use my own laminated computer printer paper to build up parts, I don't have this problem. But, parts made from thicker card stock, not just paper, tend to have a squishy, fibrous interior. They
  2. It's great that they make the blocks and deadeyes in wood. The card blocks are actually very nice, but I just had to make sure to shoot them with thin CA to harden them up – the innards are otherwise too squishy and close up the holes, so I can't push the rigging line through them. I'm surprised you mention using Syren blocks, since they're an 18th century style blocks and the cog is 14th century. Do you think they're more fitting than the kit stuff? I'm not sure what 14th century blocks are supposed to look like, but these kit block certainly have an "old-style" look to them.
  3. More progress... While working on the sail, I was also working on adding the shrouds to the mast. Today, I finally finished seizing the ends around the deadeyes, and started the process of reeving the lanyards through the deadeyes. The actual forestay will replace that white line, and I also have to rig a pair of backstays after the shrouds are complete. One issue I ran into is that the holes in the cardboard deadeyes close up from the soft cardboard material. I tried running a need through them to
  4. Chuck, good luck with that warping – it's definitely weird. Hopefully, it straightens out once it's fastened into place. By the way, I'm working on the rigging now on my Cog 'o' Card. Was just wondering, did Shipyard make some laser-cut wooden blocks for your kit? Or did they stick with their laser-cut card blocks?
  5. Hi Chuck, yes that's all there is to them. I used Aleene's tacky glue. It seemed the safest bet.
  6. I added most of the reefing points on the sail yesterday and finished them up today. Also, started a block stropping production. There are three sizes of block in this kit, all laser-cut from card stock. Lastly, I added the shrouds, and I'm now adding the upper deadeyes. I don't have any photos of that part yet, but here are some photos of the sail with the reef points going on. This method of attaching reefing points actually has some advantages. It's not difficult to do and since they're glued on, they "hang" perfectly. Threaded
  7. This seems like a minor update, but switching gears to woodworking and rigging is a milestone for me on this project. Since my last post, I finished making the mast and shaping the yardarm. With the yardarm done, I laced the sail to it. Like lacing the bonnet to the main sail, it took a little while. But, the results were good and I'm happy with how it went. I'm now preparing the rigging line for the next step, which is to add the shrouds to the mast. This includes attaching the shrouds, turning each around a deadeye, and then reeving the lanyards through the deadeyes t
  8. Hey Chuck, Don't know how it is on the wooden kit, but on the card kit, don't add the rudder until the build is done. The straps are just too delicate and any small bump can knock the rudder loose and tear out hinges. My rudder has taken quite a beating 🤨
  9. Chuck, more nice work. Did you make the bug or was it included in the kit? It's all looking great. Did you run into the same issue that I did on discovering the bow support structure thingies late in the build?
  10. Thank you Steven, Druxey. I've been particularly enjoying this part of the build, mostly because the sail provided in the kit does turn out so nicely. It's painted according to the kit's instructions and I think the laced bonnet is a nice detail too. I've been dragging my fee on a rigging project, so I think this is going to help me get back into a proper rigging mode. At least I hope!
  11. Well, today, I laced the bonnet to the main sail. Took quite a while. Felt a little burned out, like when I'm tying ratlines for an hour. But, it's done, and I'm pretty happy with it. I found it necessary to poke open some of those holes with a sewing needle, so I decided to make a new "Ship Modeler's Marlin Spike" with a sewing needle glued into a wooden handle. Later, I ground open the eye of a needle and glued it into the other end of the handle to use as a kind of line grabber. And the laced bonnet in place...
  12. Getting back to the original topic, which is about what sources there are for finished rope, I have to say this looks very nice. Thanks for the post MESSIS.
  13. Chuck, that's the way the sails came. The holes are nice and clean and I think I might be able to run the rigging line through them pretty well without having to enlarge them. Of course, I'll dip the tip of the line in CA first to harden it and then cut it sharp. But, I don't think they're really any larger than the diameter of a small sewing needle. I guess we'll see how they look when line is laced through them.
  14. Working on the sails a bit today. Finished adding the boltropes. The line for this is just glued around the edges of the sail and bonnet. Shipyard does a very good job with sails. It seems that they laser-etch the seam lines into the cloth. My HMS Alert kit was the same way, and I was really happy with the results I was getting from working with the sails for that model. I'm looking forward to lacing the bonnet into place and lacing the sail to the yard. I just have to finish shaping the yard first.
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