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About catopower

  • Birthday 06/17/1962

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    SF Bay Area

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  1. I've been told that Artesania Latina is closing their business. I've been in a "wait and see" model up until now, but it was from a very reliable source.
  2. Keep in mind that this is a kit from Billing Boats 600 series, so it's made to be built in two halves. The planking you're expected to do is very simple strip planking. The shape of the hull allows for that very easily. You could try to get fancy and spile/taper planks, but if you're painting the hull anyway, you can get away with just laying the planks down as is, the way the instruction book shows. Still, you should soak the planks before bending. A little heat always helps too. The hull of the Bluenose II is very easy to plank this way. But, of course, it's up to the builder. Once the planks are down, you can sand and use filler where needed to smooth out the hull and deal with any gaps.
  3. I have a book by these same authors – probably the same thing, but under a slightly different title: Photo Etching for Modellers. Dances around the subject without actually telling you how to photo etch. I have the Micromark set. The hardware might not be useful to your project, but you can experiment with it pretty simply and might be able to make use of the chemicals and photo-resist material, etc. In So. Cal, you should be able to find chemical suppliers very easily and avoid shipping. I found a place in Sacramento, but it was a while back. I assume you'll be using Ferric Chloride for the etchant and Sodium Hydroxide (Lye - nasty stuff) to strip the photo-resist. Those are what are included in the Micromark set. Micromark also sells those chemicals separately. 🤞
  4. Heads up for those who are expecting this to be a 1/65-scale kit. I've been using info from Matthew Betts' excellent blog regarding his work on researching and building a 1/48-scale model of Terror. After I got the kit, I started doing some measurement comparisons and found that the stated scale of the kit is wrong. I exchanged a few emails with OcCre, however, and got them to see that they had made a scale error. This doesn't really affect the build, unless you are adding your own details. They have since changed the stated scale on their website, which is now correctly stating 1/75-scale. I expect it will be a while before we see kits with the updated labeling out there. There were a lot of these shipped out. I see that OcCre lists the kits as out of stock on their website. Perhaps they're repackaging them with an updated label(?).
  5. 福井さん、貴方の模型は素晴らしい! Mr Fukui, your model is great!
  6. I have their Acra-Mill Plus and also bought the parts for their drill press attachment. I bought these several years ago and they worked great with the Dremel. I milled small pieces of wood, made my own blocks and more. They're great for those with limited space in their workshop, as you can just set up your Dremel with the attachments you need. However, I found that as I accumulated dedicated equipment, the Vanda-Lay stuff got used less and less. The main problem with the Dremel attachments is that you have to reconfigure your setup when your needs change. For the drill press, I'm much happier with a very inexpensive, dedicated unit. It is much more convenient to use, solid, and with no setup required.
  7. If the wood you are using to line the gun ports is deep enough, you can leave a small amount sticking out from the gun port. This will help you control the positioning and keep it from falling inside. Trim off the excess after the glue dries.
  8. Pat, A great discussion you started here. I appreciate it very much since I've been studying the Kanrin Maru (ex-Japan). I missed the discussion on coal preservation, but I'll add that the Kanrin Maru only carried enough coal for 6 full days of steaming. Presumably, the engines were intended for use primarily for travelling into and out of port. For the most part, the fledgeling Japanese Navy (all trainees) used it primarily under steam – I guess they kept close to port. When she crossed the Pacific, she was under sail the whole time. The USS Saginaw, a topsail schooner rigged side-paddlewheel steamer of 1859, spent a year operating only under sail. I can't remember which year was referred to. I believe Perry's mission to open Japan was in part to secure safe harbors with supplies of coal. As for sail names. Lt. John M. Brooke kept a detailed log of his journey aboard the Kanrin Maru from Edo (Tokyo) to San Francisco. As I mentioned earlier, the Kanrin Maru has the same sail rig as you've been discussing and was referred commonly referred to as a bark. Brooke specifically mentions the gaff rigged sails, calling them "trysails".
  9. James, it seems I was digging too deeply through the review and didn't spot the obvious! Yes, you are right, once you watch a video, the current will take you to the others.
  10. Here's another thing to add to the HMS Terror kit review – at least I didn't see any mention when I dug through the review and follow-up posts... OcCre created a series of short videos to help less experienced ship modelers with their HMS Terror builds. They made 111 of them – yes one hundred and eleven – posted on Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrPwa5r7zKUzCBCWrtnYjaSn4I5Ex-qBp
  11. It's definitely not a one of a kind – I've run into this rig before a number times, particularly on steamers. I've been trying to classify it as well. It's a good question, and my first thought was also that this is a 3-masted topsail schooner. But even so, I think ships of this type may have been considered bark rigged, though they may not have strictly fit the definition. There's a beautiful model of the Russian steamer Strelok, I found one time. It has a similar rig: I've been studying the Japanese ship Kanrin-maru, a Dutch-built screw steamer with a similar rig, and she's commonly referred to as a bark. Her sister ship, the Bali (see below), was called a schooner, but had a pretty heavy square rig on the foremast, including a mast top. These steamers seem to have mucked up the classification system...
  12. Hi Will, Looks like you are doing an excellent job with this model. I personally really like this line of Constructo kits, as I think they are enough of a challenge for first time builders, yet provide a taste of most of the tasks that will be faced with bigger kits. Also, it gives you a good platform to modify and upgrade to make it as complicated or as simple as you want. Regarding the rigging instructions, to be fair, I think rigging is really hard to explain, and most of it is better left to diagrams to show you where things go. If you looked at written instructions on rigging, you might be tempted to put the kit back up in your closet for being too much to deal with. Anyway, there's plenty of help here on MSW if you need it.
  13. Well, I couldn't help it... I was at Ages of Sail, picking up items to take to tomorrow's IPMS show in San Jose (I'm manning the Ages of Sail table at this event), and they had the HMS Terror kits there – the shipment just came in. Not that I need another project to start, but I also want some experience with OcCre kits for my own blogging purposes. At least, that's my excuse for spending more money on yet another kit. Anyway, it's a great looking kit, and the Building Terror Blog is great material and inspiration for making an even better model. Looking forward to the build.
  14. Christos, you did a fantastic job on this model. I am very impressed with how nicely it turned out. Well done!
  15. Absolutely fabulous job on the Sir Winston Churchill, Christos. Very nicely done!

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