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About ASlrWnt2C

  • Birthday April 7

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rochester, Minnesota, USA
  • Interests
    Music, Backgammon, Computers,Reading
  1. I reckon I owe the group a comeback, even though this has strayed a bit into the realm of "Jigs and Building Tips" The smallest steel pins I could find are .8mm, but My Fife rails are only about 1mm. It seemed to me that even if I could drill a horizontal hole through the rail with the setup described by @Bob Cleek that the rail would be weakened too much. So I decided to glue on another strip of plastic to support the pin, and I got an idea about how to drill the hole perpendicular. First I cut a strip off a .02" sheet, approximately the width of the rail
  2. I reckon that I owe the group a comeback on what I did with the information posted here. I'm a little shy about posting my work since I can see that I am in the presence of master craftsmen. Please keep in mind that I am just a beginner. I marked the video from @P_Budzik as "the solution", since I thought that was the single most helpful post. I purchased the UMM SCR-01 as recommended by @kurtvd19 I love using this tool. I like the way it pulls a chip out of the groove it is cutting. Anyway. I haven't started on the actual deck piece yet, but h
  3. Thanks, @Bob Cleek I think I understand the manual jigs. I'll give them a try. We'll see about getting power tools. Christmas is coming!
  4. Here is an update.... The pins arrived and I am in the process of drilling 135 holes with my pin vise. I guess I didn't realize how tiny they would be: It's one thing to talk about a pin that is 5mm long. Quite another when you drop one on the floor. Which brings up another question. @ah100mmentioned that he pinned his fife rails to the hull with brass nails. And I am aware that others have done this. But I don't see how it's possible to drill a hole for the a pin horizontally in the fife rail. You can see that I have some consistency iss
  5. Thanks for the helpful information @popeye2sea, @Kris Avonts and @Dr PR That makes sense. I will rig the lines accordingly
  6. Hello, I'm working on the Revell 1/96 Constitution. Before too much longer I'm going to be assembling the gun deck and rigging the breeching lines that absorb the cannon's recoil. Something that is puzzling me is how much slack would have been in those lines? It seems like you'd want as little as possible when the gun was run out, to be effective, but if so, how would they have run the guns in for access to the muzzle with long handled tools? I thought I had it figured out. They must have unlooped the breeching line from around the cascobels and let the gun sli
  7. Hull Painting and First Big Mistake It seems like the conventional wisdom is to glue the hull halves together and then paint the whole thing. But I wasn't aware of that guidance at the time, so I decided to paint the hull halves separately. I reckoned that the detail work on bow and the gallery would be easier with the hull half laying flat on the bench. I'm not sure that was wrong. Inexperience came to bite me in other ways though. I wasn't nearly as careful with the masking as I should have been and in particular I got the bottom boundary on the gun port stripe compl
  8. Hey Evan, 

    Thanks so much for liking my post. I have been greatly influenced by your Constitution build log. And I hope to see more of it. 

  9. Thanks everyone for the practical and philosophical advice. I have been thinking about this alot and I hope it won't offend anyone if I offer a different perspective. First of all, I don't think it's inherently wrong to make visible the details that you know are there but wouldn't ordinarily see. In some sense I think that is the purpose of a model (at least for scientific and data processing models, but I think the principle applies). Second, a quick experiment inspired by @shipman's post. Here is photo of the actual Constitution spar deck: This isn
  10. Hi, I hope someone can give me some guidance. I'm building the Revell 1/96 Constitution. I'm planning to glue up the three spar deck pieces, fill the seams and then scribe the planking as done by force9. But I have never done this before and I'm not sure what scriber will give me the best results. To get some Idea of the look I'm going for, here's a photo of my bulked up inner hull which is made from actual "planks" of .04x.156 Evergreen strips, which I sanded with 80 grit to get a wood grain I also hit the corners of the strip to get some chamfering Hmm... I s
  11. Thanks everyone for the great historical and practical advice. Amazon does not quote the diameter of the pins I'm contemplating but they sound a lot like the ones ah100m is using successfully. Is there a product that blackens brass? I seem to remember a comment in a build log that "the fittings are soaking in Blacken-It" or some such. I guess I could paint them since they won't actually get much use. I'm still torn between the aesthetics of leaving them bright or the accuracy of blackening. I suppose that if I left them bright they would tarnish over time. Maybe by the time I get
  12. First Steps Hello all, I see I have picked up a couple of followers. Thanks for that. I'll try to keep things interesting for you. I don't have many photos from the early days of the build, since I wasn't contemplating a build log at that time. But the very first thing I did after pouring over the directions for a few days was to clean up the Hull halves. This meant filing off the tabs on the keel for the stand I'm not using and generally cleaning up the flashing(?). It wasn't easy at first to tell what was supposed to be there and what wasn't. Forew
  13. I'm working on my 1/96 Revell Constitution and have decided that the pins molded into the various rails are way too fragile. I'm going to save myself some grief (I hope) by filing the plastic pins off the kit rails and drilling holes for aftermarket pins. I have more or less decided on these pins, but thinking about this has raised the question of What were the actual pins on ships of that era made from? I guess I always assumed, without thinking deeply about it, that the pins would have been made of some kind of hardwood. But recently I read C.S. Forrester's cl
  14. Decisions and Plans "You can't please everyone so you got to please yourself" --Ricky Neslon This is the final preliminary post, before I get caught up on the actual status of the build. What I plan to do here, it document the key decisions I have made about modifications to the kit. It's partially a plan for me and a way to document how my thinking evolved through the process. It really never occured to me to do anything except follow the instructions, until I started hanging around here. In this endeavour, I'm going to try to balance the following principles.
  15. Overworked724 -- Thanks for your words of encouragement, Patrick . I took a quick look at your Syren build, and I'm now REALLY Glad I didn't start with a wooden Kit.
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