achuck49
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achuck49 got a reaction from GLakie in Drilling straight holes into dowels
Greetings
My steady stream of questions never seem to end.
I study build logs many times a week as well as the other forums to learn all that I can. One problem that I have and must have missed the solution is how to drill straight holes through dowels, in particular the sides.
I make a lot of ships in a bottles (these are very thin dowels) for grand-kids and silent auctions at charity groups. When working on any scale ship, accurate placement of mast or spar holes is essential.
I have created "V's" out of wood to cradle the dowel and help to center it, but then the very thin drill bits will often bend and roll off target. I have filed a flat spot to try to help stay on target, but it does not mean that there will be consistent results across all of the stock of dowels.
I have a Dremel with work station, push drill, and hand drill that I turn manually so there is no shortage of tools or bits.
Any suggestions for consistent results???
Chuck
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achuck49 got a reaction from CaptainSteve in how to work with teeny blocks???
This site is full of great people.
Progress is better...I found an alligator clip which I placed into a vise. I then put some glue on the string and quickly wrap it around the block. This works 'most' of the time. The string sometimes is slightly off the groove on the back side of the block. I then get it in place and tie it off. This reduces the time from 8 to 2 minutes per block. I believe that a major part of the problem is the thread that I am using is synthetic instead of natural. I studied the pictures that were sent and noticed that a more natural thread was used in all of the illustrations. Lesson learned.
I will finish this model (not at all happy with the results) and give it to some very young nephews who think that I am a true master.
Thanks again to everyone.
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achuck49 got a reaction from edmay in how to work with teeny blocks???
This site is full of great people.
Progress is better...I found an alligator clip which I placed into a vise. I then put some glue on the string and quickly wrap it around the block. This works 'most' of the time. The string sometimes is slightly off the groove on the back side of the block. I then get it in place and tie it off. This reduces the time from 8 to 2 minutes per block. I believe that a major part of the problem is the thread that I am using is synthetic instead of natural. I studied the pictures that were sent and noticed that a more natural thread was used in all of the illustrations. Lesson learned.
I will finish this model (not at all happy with the results) and give it to some very young nephews who think that I am a true master.
Thanks again to everyone.
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achuck49 got a reaction from dragzz in Santa Maria by achuck49 - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:65 - POB
Sorry for not posting sooner but 3 year old granddaughter had a bad ear infection and the Sooners lost to TCU.
I did work on Maria and discovered some problems that I had not anticipated.
The ribs making up the false hull were too tight. I was very concerned about making the fit too large so I spent two days carefully sanding everything to fit.
I lightly sanded all areas to be glued but the glue would only work in spots.
What is shown in the photo is mostly plywood. Initially I used Tightbond woos glue as I have many times. The glue would hold very well for half an inch but fail for three. This was regardless of degree of stress, amount of 'bite', or anything else. I broke out the super glue and had similar results.
Tiny nails and a new nailer finally worked.
After some cleaning up I will put the first planking layer on. The instructions and photos clearly state that a few full length planks are all that is needed because the rest will be filled in with stealers.
If fits well and looks good, there is a problem elsewhere
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